₦airaland Forum

Sheisenough01:
The installer bought all the items. I've concluded to maybe buy two more batteries to make 4.

My old setup did way better with two batteries.

Thank you vta2008 you've been most helpful.

You're welcome

Sheisenough01:
Thanks your response has helped a lot. This is the user manual attached. I've checked both sides of the inverter there is no specification written. A fake model maybe?

Looks like they use the same manual for all models. Check the carton too.

Ask the seller what model he sold to you. Maybe it's on the receipt sef

Sheisenough01:
Good morning all,

Novice here that will need your help. I recently installed a setup for my home using a Famicare I think 3 or 5kva.

2 tubular 220ah battery and 2 300w and 4 180w panels, with an Mppt Charge Controller. All were brand new.

All installation was carried out by an installer so forgive me if I don't know the right specifications.

The issue here are
1. The inverter battery charge light never goes off. Always blinking since in1stallation.

When the battery bar (four bar) voltage is always at 13.5-13.7v .

2. Major issue, the battery doesn't last more than 5 hours. Usage is not that much at least I have never gone beyond 25% load capacity since installation but within 4-6 many hours of use it starts beeping.

Note nothing heavy is on the system. Four fans, One TV and lights.

Please what is the solution to this as this setup cost quite a lot and isn't meeting my expectations.

Mine is the 5.5KVA 24V version.....check the side of yours for the specs. The battery charge light finally went off after I installed 4 350w solar panels and a 15kva stabilizer. Till date the light never goes off UNLESS there's solar power and grid supply at the same time....very weird stuff.
I don't know if the stabilizer is what is helping the light go off

I just checked my user manual and 3.5kva as well as 5.5kva are 24V inverters. Your inverter is showing 13.5V instead of >24V. Maybe your installation wasn't done properly OR your model is the 1.5kva or 2.5kva 12v

If you have the 5.5Kva model, it already comes with a PWM 24 charge controller. Hope the external charge controller isn't messing with it.

Finally a few people here like NiyiOmoIyunade and isangjohnson have talked about batteries with fake ratings (180AH labeled as 220AH). Maybe na your situation *I reject am for you*

I now handover to our Inverter Lords

isangjohnson:
If it's C20 which I believe it's, then a 220Ah/20 = 11A x 24v = 264w.
You may decide to multiply it with the number of battery you've to get the total watt to be drawn.
I'll advise you to do your calculation on 200Ah or 190Ah and not 220Ah as it's very hard to get the rated battery capacity these days in Naija. If you truly carry out the capacity test of those batteries, you may be surprised to see 180Ah instead of 220Ah pasted.
This is one of the reasons most of our batteries do not last. Imagine discharging 60% to 70% of 180Ah everyday thinking you're discharging 50% of 220Ah.

Thanks man. This country na jungle sha . The seller is an authorized distributor of the brand sha so if fake capacity issue dey na direct from the brand.

Shebi even if fake capacity dey the battery, the koko is not to let the inverter reading drop below 24V abi?

bigrovar:
Not too long ago someone asked how long can a tubular battery last and those of us who have used those batteries gave our experiences. I started my solar journey with 2 Tubular batteries and used them for 3 years (Including 1-year completely off the grid in a 2 bedroom house with 4 occupants) The secret is how you design your system to avoid the limitation of whatever system you are using.

In my case, I ran heavy loads like my freezer and fridge during the day and thus on solar and limited battery discharge rate to about 150w. This includes a TV, fan, and lights for the house. heck, my night load was once 90w thanks to having efficient loads like led lights, dc ceiling fans, and solar outdoor lights. The low night discharge was way below the recommended discharge rates of those batteries which in my case was 200w.

The only thing I ran my generator off on was the water pump and I decided 20 minutes of generator time once every 2 days was more efficient than putting a 1HP water pump on a 5kwh battery bank designed for a 200w discharge rate.

I later sold those batteries and got 4 Exide Index batteries 200AH directly from Multipower ilupeju. These upgrades allowed me to increase my loads hence things like an electric kettle, microwave could be used with the batteries (In short bursts) and my night discharge became 300w (Still within the discharge limit of my batteries)

The Exide Tubular are in their second life with a friend which puts them at 4 years of use. I ensured I used the batteries within the limits of their rating,
* I had a battery sensor that allowed for the temperature-compensated charge.
* I made sure my batteries were rarely discharged below 50% dod
* I made sure batteries were fully charged every day and never left them in a partial state of charge
* I also made sure that I kept the charge voltage, and discharge rate to be within the limits accepted by the battery chemistry.

When you come to a place like this, come with facts not offing and puffing but offering very little substance. I have put out the facts as I see them. It is up to whoever is reading this to do as they see fit. Every decision has consequences. How long your battery last depends on how well you treat them.

Abeg no vex how do I calculate the recommended discharge rate of my setup? It's a 5.5kva 24v inverter with 4 pieces of Hausstrom HS-22043 12V 220AH Tall Tubular Battery. I don't know the C rating of the battery as it's not included in the package.

The discharge rate is per hour abi? Thanks

[quote author=samnaija post=119438930][/quote]I have 4 350w solar panels and if I'm not reading wrong my inverter can only support up to 1200W from the solar panels (maximum pv array power)

I've ordered for one of those auto switch plugs that enable you set when to run your appliances so I can be running my fridge and freezer from 7am to 7pm only.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Most inverters I know especially the budget category do not have an ability to auto equalize every X number of days. This does not mean they cannot be adjusted to get to equalization voltage just that a human being has to take care of that process.

Most decent charge controllers have an auto equalize function built in.

Check what your existing equipment is capable of and respond as appropriate - at least now we know one reason why you have never needed to top up your battery water levels.

Would be nice if you could state what brand and spec of inverter you use and what (if any) charge controllers you have

I read up battery equalizing and it looks like so much drama with plenty risk for a novice. I use a 5.5kva 24v famicare inverter with built in pwm charge controller and four 350w solar panels

durodee:
And you equalize monthly?

I just dey encounter that term now. I'd have to contact the inverter installer for that one abi?

samnaija:
Do you have solar panels with your system, try get more and do such heavy cooking when when the sun is high.

Yeah I do have solar panels. I only use my air fryer when there's power supply from the grid..the inverter is just standby should in case NEPA strikes as usual

isangjohnson:
.
Your illustration on the performance of your battery once load is applied is called voltage sag. Those ones with severe voltage sag may not easily return to the previous voltage when the placed load is released, though still depends on the running time of the said load.

Mine is working fine for now be that. The load doesn't stay past 1 hour tops. Na emergency usage things when the grid is down. Thanks

bigrovar:
I agree with everything you said above nothing to add but to double click on the statement concerning the concentration of acid on the tubular lead acid sold here in Nigeria.

These batteries are usually shipped dry to lower the shipping cost. Shipping them mixed with electrolyte automatically makes them Hazmat and shipping cost goes through the roof. The quality of the electrolyte they are filled with here in Nigeria then bring to question and it is why many tubular batteries are plaqued with severe case of voltage sag once a small load is placed on them. I personally don't recommend tubular. They are not worth the stress and are very difficult to use properly.

Abeg what would you call severe case of voltage lag? My battery only lags when I turn on my air fryer. The inverter load rises to like 30% and voltage drops from 24.9V to 23.2V. Once I'm done, it rises back to say 24.8V

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Topup is in response to low water levels in a battery cell.

If none of your cells are short of water after a careful visual inspection then there is no need to topup.

Beware that any flotation based battery water level indicators are indeed working correctly and not deceiving you hence I said after a careful visual inspection of the water levels per cell.

Once the above checks out and you satisfied yourself that you are charging at a proper voltage for your battery then you are good to go.

Thanks a lot sir. My body don calm down small. This whole lead acid battery drama can be one kain
Merry Xmas

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I have long since abandoned lead acid except for use in pro bono systems for elderly relatives and folks in the village or other very low load demand applications. I am loath to besmirch my hands with such chemistries or think about them too much these days

I agree with virtually all that you have said about flooded battery chemistry - you need a positively good charge to agitate/bubble/gas the electrolyte and let things mix up well.

The only mod I would make is that flooded batteries do better at 14.6v per 12v as the minimum for the absorb voltage target. Anything from 14.6v to 14.8v as a regular charge is good. Then the periodic equalization at or above 15v.

14.4v is better suited as a cap for AGM and Gel where you want to minimise gassing and stay within the recombination (ability to make gas generated during charging back into liquid) capabilities of your 'sealed and maintenance free' battery - since you are not ordinarily expected to top up water in AGM and Gel, the need to preserve the liquid electrolyte mix from factory overrides the need for a better charge at higher voltages.

This then is the delicate balancing act that the system designer must master for each battery he deploys - charge the battery at the highest possible voltage it can take and you get max capacity but a shorter service life, charge at lower voltages and you sacrifice some capacity but get longer service life. Finding the optimal point to stay at is the core skill to master as battery charge and discharge are inevitably destructive processes.

But I digress - anyone who is deep cycling his flooded batteries daily but has not topped up distilled water after 6 months is very likely charging at too low a voltage and slowly strangling/sulphating the battery to death.

Please what if the person's daily consumption is ridiculously low thus no major daily drain on the battery cycle? Should the person still be topping up water that hasn't gone down at all?

My total battery capacity is 24V 440AH and I only draw about 1,500W on a day of intense use. I'm still on the grid and NEPA is behaving well now so I don't have reason to really on the batteries fully yet.

toyeoye:
I just arrived and will observe over time but so far, yes, I hear at least one fan running almost all the time.

Thanks a lot

toyeoye:
Good question!
I would also like to know why I have one if the inverter comes with its own charge controller. I simply followed the installers recommendation and setup has been working flawlessly
after my initial worry thanks to a few pointers on this thread on maximising what I have.
Will follow up on this when I'm on ground.

Quick question abeg since we seem to have the same inverter.

Is the fan on yours always on irregardless of how much load is on it or how hot is?

I noticed that when charging hits 50A and the temperature goes above 45c, the two fans run very loud. Once temps drop below 45c, one fan shuts down and the other continues non stop with less intense noise.

I contacted the brand's customer care and they said this is normal

toyeoye:
Maybe your turenchi was too much lol.
You still didn't give me information on how to get the solution you mention and the cost of purchase and installation (I assume you deal in vicrton products).
What I'm saying is that in the absence of the ideal scenario you paint, what can be done to maintain balance with the present setup?
I have a 5kva inverter (I think its Famicare) a 100a mppt (Yohako) charge controller, trina mono panels 300w (12)

Abeg why did you get a charge controller for your inverter? I have the famicare 5.5kva 24v inverter and it comes with internal pwm solar charge controller.

Twostep:
Good morning house, please what are the best type of fans to use with inverter. I wanted to opt for recharge fans but a friend suggested I get this type of ox below and says it’s a better option.

I would appreciate your opinions

Focus on the watt rating of the fan. The lower the better the less stress on your inverter battery

Penuelseun:
I believe that blinking light comes on when the battery is in absorb mode because the same thing happens in my tbh inverter. If I may ask, what is the capacity of your battery and for how long does the blinking light stay on?

Sorry I'm just seeing this. I sometimes forget how Nairaland works.
The tall tubular battery setup is 24v 440ah.
The yellow blinking light never went out until this evening when I got home. It had stopped blinking and stayed fixed.

Greatzeus:
You didn't state any specific issue or fault with the inverter,you seem to be concerned with the lcd display.
Now to the issue of 27v displayed on the lcd screen ,it is correct as it is 27v.
Your inverter is 5.5Kva ,24 v. 24v means it can only use 2 nos of 12v batteries ie 24v, when it is charging it will rise to 27 volts plus.
Your 4 nos of batteries were not connected in series ( 12+12+12+12=48v). But they were connected in parallel ( 12+12=24v) connected with (12+12=24v).
Your inverter is 24v inverter,If your 4 batteries were connected in series,the Inverter would have blown due to over voltage.

Sorry I missed your reply. The main issue with the inverter was the persistent blinking charge light. It finally stopped blinking today after installing solar panels and a central stabilizer. I don't know if those two had anything to do with it or the evil spirit worrying the inverter suddenly decided to go trouble another device

Thanks for the maths by the way regarding how the batteries are setup to give 24V instead of 48V which isn't compatible with the inverter . I figured that out after browsing Quora endlessly.

Namzy:
I'm not the owner of said inverter as it belongs to my bro. Just asked him and he said the yellow indicator stops blinking but still remains on, likewise the battery indicator stops the filling animation on the display. It'll be wise to invest on a battery monitor (with a shunt) to stop second guessing.

UPDATE: I finally installed my solar panels and a 15kva central stabilizer 2 days ago. Got home this evening to see the charging light has stopped blinking. Hallelujah.

Na this fan that is always on dey stress me now. I read on some forum that it the brand stuck a continuous load fan inside the inverter, there's nothing I can do about it.

richmon74:
I'm a regular installer of Prag Servo Regulators as shown in some of my pixs below.

I'm wondering if you are aware that the 220V displayed on the regulator is actually not the output voltage reading (I search this forum and the entire nairaland to find out if this has been mentioned any were but couldn't fine any). It is just a number reading permanently on the LED screen. the output voltage also varies with the input to as low as 180v like in one occasion that public power supply was 164v.

To me, that is deception.
Well that's a personal opinion though.

Thank you so much for this. I've been searching Google wondering what the hell is going on .....if I have a faulty stabilizer or not.

I installed mine 2 days ago and that 220V output has been stressing me out because my Watt Meter and Inverter have the same reading unlike the stabilizer. Those two devices will be showing Output Voltage of 240V but the stabilizer output display will always be on 220V.

Sometimes it outputs the same input voltage as long as the input voltage stays within 200 - 240V

It's only the input that varies. To think I used to rate the brand highly

Namzy:
Battery monitor will give you the correct soc all things being equal. It has a shunt that measures current inflow and out flow through which it calculates the battery percentage. Your inverter battery bar might be full and then suddenly shows 60% or lower when you put a big load on it, only for it to show full again when the load is removed

See wahala .

Father Lord into thy hands I commit my soul. This inverter journey must end in praise.

Please recommend a good battery monitor abeg. Link will be appreciated. Thanks

Namzy:
Fan comes on during charging and off in float, also comes on on high loads. My Axpert inverter does same too. I guess most Chinese inverters do same while charging. If your light is blinking, then most likely your inverter has not entered float. You might be depleting your batteries more thereby requiring long charge times hence while your fan is always on. For lead acid batteries don't go below 50% infact I've gone slightly below 65% once in my 4 years of using my tubular batteries and batteries are still flawless. So end point is get a battery monitor to know your battery soc and properly monitor your inverter charging profile and battery well being properly

Thanks man.

My 24v 5.5kva inverter and 4 tall tubular battery setup na tear rubber oh.

I haven't started using it for carrying load sef. That's why the whole thing is confusing me.

I was told to leave it charging for at least 24hrs which I extended to 48hrs but still the fan go just dey blow dey go while the charge LED light stays blinking but the battery meter on LCD is full and voltage is 27V (It's a 24v 440AH setup).

I assumed it was already in float since the voltage is reading 27V but that charge blinking thing

Do I need a separate battery monitor DESPITE the inverter LCD screen already showing Input Voltage, Output Voltage, Load and Battery Voltage etc ?

Voltage in my area these days dey tire person sef (120v) and has me considering a very wide range input 10KVA stabilizer

Namzy:
I'm not the owner of said inverter as it belongs to my bro. Just asked him and he said the yellow indicator stops blinking but still remains on, likewise the battery indicator stops the filling animation on the display. It'll be wise to invest on a battery monitor (with a shunt) to stop second guessing.

Nna no vex for me abeg. I don come again. Help me buzz your brother.

The fans are always on and somewhat loud, is that normal?

The only time they go off is when the inverter is switched off and there's no NEPA.

E be like say I go blog post for new Famicare inverter buyers when I'm done sorting out my issues with the inverter

Namzy:
I'm not the owner of said inverter as it belongs to my bro. Just asked him and he said the yellow indicator stops blinking but still remains on, likewise the battery indicator stops the filling animation on the display. It'll be wise to invest on a battery monitor (with a shunt) to stop second guessing.

Thanks a lot man. Will find time to go and raise complaint at the shop where I bought it since they gave me 1 year warranty. That blinking light is the only thing stressing me out.

So I recently installed Famicare 5.5kva 24V inverter with 4 tubular batteries. It's been like 2 days now and the yellow charging light is still blinking.

The Battery meter in the LCD panel is full and no longer blinking so I'm confuse as to what is going on. Is it fully charged or not?

Can anyone help?

Also why is the battery reading 27.0V when I have 4 12V 220AH batteries connected to it? Shouldn't it be around 48V? See picture attached

Thanks

ajabani4allah:
Pls house. What's the quality of famicare inverter? I am planning to get this one below

Hello, please did you finally buy this inverter? If you did, please how do you know the battery is fully charged? The yellow charging light is always blinking. Thanks

Namzy:
I don't think the yohako CC is bad. That is if it's really mppt. Infact I prefer it to makeskyblue. The major mistake you made is buying a 5kw 24v instead of 48v. Hope your cables are minimum 35mm2 or higher? Get solar flood lights that charge and come on @ night. You can monitor your CC and know the highest watts you have gotten from your installed panel capacity before changing your SCC.
Famicare really suprised me,as their 3.5kva 24v my bro bought has an idle consumption of 18 watts! Which is even better than my axpert 3kva. Also its power factor is about 0.95 (yea we measured) an impressive feat considering most Indian low freq inveter are pf 0.8.

Hi abeg no vex. I just installed a 5kva 24v famicare inverter with 4 12v 220AH batteries yesterday. Please how long does the first charge take and how will I know the batteries are fully charged? The battery indicator in the LCD is full and has stopped flashing BUT the yellow charging lamp is still blinking. Thank you

elvischukie:
trying to sort out this refund issue with this seller that sent a faulty watch, don't want to make any mistakes, how do i respond with a video prove, reject proposal or?
Cc jboixxx

Record a video of the fault, upload to YouTube and send them the link.

YesterNight, I wanted to watch some tutorials I downloaded on YouTube just a day earlier, but to my chagrin, I was prevented.

The videos are locked (sorry I didn't take the screenshot before upgrading) and when I clicked on them, I was advised to update to YouTube premium before I can watch the videos I downloaded.

I ended up upgrading.

Who else experience it.

Good morning. Pls is YouTube charging you in naira or dollars? Are you using naira Mastercard or dollar Mastercard? Thanks

Hi everyone, please does anyone here know what's the maximum value of goods you can import into Nigeria before you are liable to pay import duties?

I used to know it's N50k based on this story (https://guardian.ng/business-services/imported-personal-item-above-n50000-attracts-duty-says-customs/) but does that still apply?

I need to know the current maximum value so I can buy things without passing it thereby incurring charges when the goods arrive.

Thanks guys ��

Mine started fucking up just this weekend and GTBank is yarning nonsense about Dynamic Currency Conversion

Hello, thank you for talking to us, Please know that although you can make online payments in foreign currency with our naira MasterCard, our Naira MasterCard has been blocked from performing transactions on some particular sites because of DCC (Dynamic Currency Conversion). This is the challenge of our present FX condition in the country. We advise you get a dollar card which is at the rate of N1075, and you will be charged 10 dollars annually for card maintenance fee. Regards