Pls I will appreciate anyone who can give me the contact of any good car re-wire (popularly called in naija). Three weeks ago I was driving along lagos- abeokuta expressway, very close to ifo and my car suddenly went off, all efforts to start the car ever since prove abort. I was told it was an electrical fault and the brainbox is faulty, I bought another brainbox yet to no avail. I have to tow the car from ifo back to lagos. Presently the car is in my mech workshop at iyana paja, I told my mech to help me get a very good rewire to work on it but the guy is trying to dupe me. So far so good, I have spent over 60k and the problem has not been detected. From what I know, the car is not shocking (meaning it does supply current to the plugs. We have tested the ignition and it's ok. I told my mech to help me call people who will diagnose the car with computer to detect the fault and I gave him money only to be told that they couldn't still get the fault and that is where I realise the useless guy is trying to dupe me. Pls I will appreciate help from any good source.

Mazda 323F, V6, 1997 Model

Gbamm over n out

How are we sure that they haven't bypassed so many Electrical connections,while trying to detect the non starting issue?

You said the ignition has been tested and came out ok. How come you are not getting sparks then on the spark plugs ? What exactly did they test and called ignition ?

Your car issue sounds like a CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor) issue. It would give such symptoms when failed. CKP is one of the Ignition system components.

There are other ignition components that will give non starting issues when thet fail. Such as Ignition module, ignition relays, etc.
ECU should be the last thing to suspect. You only go to ECU when other components that would give such symptoms have checked out ok.

Since you may not be able to manually troubleshoot the car yourself (elimination method ), I would advise you scan the Lagos. Scanning the car in Lagos shouldn't be an issue. Good luck .

Ikenna

Ikenna351: How are we sure that they haven't bypassed so many Electrical connections,while trying to detect the non starting issue?

You said the ignition has been tested and came out ok. How come you are not getting sparks then on the spark plugs ? What exactly did they test and called ignition ?

Your car issue sounds like a CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor) issue. It would give such symptoms when failed. CKP is one of the Ignition system components.

There are other ignition components that will give non starting issues when thet fail. Such as Ignition module, ignition relays, etc.
ECU should be the last thing to suspect. You only go to ECU when other components that would give such symptoms have checked out ok.

Since you may not be able to manually troubleshoot the car yourself (elimination method ), I would advise you scan the Lagos. Scanning the car in Lagos shouldn't be an issue. Good luck .

Ikenna

Thanks for your comment, the picture below shows the ignition that was tested ok but right now am i bit confused, i will appreciate if you or anybody can suggest someone who can help me to fix this problem.

Gbamm over n out

First question
When you turn the key to i or ii do you have full electrical light on your gauges or is it dim?
Is your check engine light on, for how long, is it flashing now?

Do you have a no crank no start or a crank no start?

If your starter gauges work you may need to put your ear to the area near fuel tank, have someone turn key to ii to check if fuel pump works. your car looks like a V6(never had opportunity to see a 3cyl engine)I will suggest you check your timing chain

the picture below shows the ignition that was tested ok but right now am i bit confused

collinsfbi:
If key inserted and turned on, all light on the dash board remain the same and normal, no dimming, engine light on, it only no start. fuel pump very ok, fuel rushing immediately ignition turn on. The problem is that the ignition component with the arrow on the picture did not supply current to all the engine six plugs

Gbamm over n out

Its a bit confusing but the clearer we get your point the better it is resolving this issue with no testing equipment.

The easiest way would have been to have a scanner and a multimeter.

The arrow points to distributor, there are some things that can prevent it from working, but we need to know if the its ok by getting spark at some of the plugs since you said "did not supply current to all the engine six plugs"

If you are getting any spark to your plugs your car will run rough so I'm assuming no spark so remove distributor cap and look for unusual thing like a streak of carbon buildup or bad rotor.Donot remove the plug wires (you do want a mixup)

I hope you understand that when you distributor is good, you check the cap to see why its losing electricity before the wires

sultaan:



Its a bit confusing but the clearer we get your point the better it is resolving this issue with no testing equipment.

The easiest way would have been to have a scanner and a multimeter.

The arrow points to distributor, there are some things that can prevent it from working, but we need to know if the its ok by getting spark at some of the plugs since you said "did not supply current to all the engine six plugs"

If you are getting any spark to your plugs your car will run rough so I'm assuming no spark so remove distributor cap and look for unusual thing like a streak of carbon buildup or bad rotor.Donot remove the plug wires (you do want a mixup)

I hope you understand that when you distributor is good, you check the cap to see why its losing electricity before the wires

Appreciate everyone who contributed to this thread in one way or the other. My car finally start on friday evening, meanwhile i called someone from Ladipo who came to scan the car. Thereafter, he suggested i change the ignition components with the arrow on the picture completely. So, he went and brought another ignition component, lo and behold, he fixed it and the car starts. Am glad it works.

Gbamm over n out

collinsfbi:

Appreciate everyone who contributed to this thread in one way or the other. My car finally start on friday evening, meanwhile i called someone from Ladipo who came to scan the car. Thereafter, he suggested i change the ignition components with the arrow on the picture completely. So, he went and brought another ignition component, lo and behold, he fixed it and the car starts. Am glad it works.

Gbamm over n out

In as much as i would say congratulations for having your car running again, but am very disappointed with your lack of interest in what it takes to own a car.

Someone brought a part, as big as that (from the picture) and replace it and the car started running again, but you didn't bother to ask him what the part name was. You were only desperate in getting your car to start running again, but not interested in what really went wrong or what caused the issue.

Anyway, for the sake of others, from the picture of the part he claimed was replaced and got the car running again, the part is called Distributor. Its probably the Rotor,Distributor Cap or something else in the distributor that failed and wasn't passing or sending high volts to the spark plugs.

Paying little attention or putting interest in our cars, is what will make them last longer.

Ikenna

I'm not sure but if he replace the whole distributor, he apparently had a direct replacement, part.and know he needs to have the engine at TDC.

If he changed the cap nothing else is needed.

@collinsfbi, please where did you buy this car? Cotonu or naija? How much does it cost? How has it served you so far as regards maintainance, fuel economy ? Are spare parts cheap and readily available? I'm looking to buy the same 323, so i'd like your opinion seeing as you're a user yourself. Thanks

TCD: @collinsfbi, please where did you buy this car? Cotonu or naija? How much does it cost? How has it served you so far as regards maintainance, fuel economy ? Are spare parts cheap and readily available? I'm looking to buy the same 323, so i'd like your opinion seeing as you're a user yourself. Thanks

The car is good but expensive to maintain in the sense that the parts are a bit costly being America production but available anytime anyday @ladipo market, if you will like to have one pls go for the 4plugs because mine is V6 though i enjoy it when on the road but consume fuel like normal V6, no toyota/honda car with 4plugs can withstand it but the V6 is the common ones in the market today and it requires proper maintenance and regular servicing. I bought it in naija around 700k but it should be a bit lesser than that now.

Gbamm over n out

Ikenna351:


In as much as i would say congratulations for having your car running again, but am very disappointed with your lack of interest in what it takes to own a car.

Someone brought a part, as big as that (from the picture) and replace it and the car started running again, but you didn't bother to ask him what the part name was. You were only desperate in getting your car to start running again, but not interested in what really went wrong or what caused the issue.

Anyway, for the sake of others, from the picture of the part he claimed was replaced and got the car running again, the part is called Distributor. Its proberbly the Rotor or Distributor Cap that failed and wasn't passing or sending high volts to the spark plugs.

Paying little attention or putting interest in our cars, is what will make them last longer.

Ikenna

Thanks for your comment but always try not to coin insults within your words. what was replaced in the car is the distributor but popularly called "ignition" among 98% of Nigerian mech. It wasn't the distributors' cap, though it sparks after testing but it may has other damage component within such as coil and others.

Thanks

ABSOFuCKINGlutely nothoing wrong with what ikenna siad...i get irritated when peeps dont pay attention to details...so if some1 has a similar problem. on nairaland..what wud the poster tell him to buy?.....peeps like ikenna , siena wont be on this forum forever.....peeps needto educate demselves!

collinsfbi:
The car is good but expensive to maintain in the sense that the parts are a bit costly being America production but available anytime anyday @ladipo market, if you will like to have one pls go for the 4plugs because mine is V6 though i enjoy it when on the road but consume fuel like normal V6, no toyota/honda car with 4plugs can withstand it but the V6 is the common ones in the market today and it requires proper maintenance and regular servicing. I bought it in naija around 700k but it should be a bit lesser than that now.

Gbamm over n out

Thanks for your response. I'm confused, you say yours is a v6 but in your pic I can only count 4 plugs.. Not an auto expert so more knowledgeable guys can help me clarify here, are there v6 engines with 3 plugs?

TCD: Thanks for your response. I'm confused, you say yours is a v6 but in your pic I can only count 4 plugs.. Not an auto expert so more knowledgeable guys can help me clarify here, are there v6 engines with 3 plugs?

Have been using mine for up to two years now and I think I know my car better, V6 engine normally have 3plugs at the front and the other three a bit behind.

Gbamm over n out

Please I have an issue with my mazda 6 2005 v6. Ever since a Kazeem fixed my ac and rewired one of the fans, the car jerks violently when put in gear and goes off..the jerk is so violent I thought the whole engine seat was coming off..please help with any good mazda electrician

hulkaman:
Please I have an issue with my mazda 6 2005 v6. Ever since a Kazeem fixed my ac and rewired one of the fans, the car jerks violently when put in gear and goes off..the jerk is so violent I thought the whole engine seat was coming off..please help with any good mazda electrician

when you say rewire the fan did you mean direct connection of the FAN?

I have a Mazda tribute 2001 v6 SUV. My problems basically are:
1. When I start my car in the morning, it starts out fine- reading 14.3v but gradually drops to 13.5 without load(Ac, headlights, radio, inner lights). Sometimes, when the electric fan kicks in full, the voltage drops further down to 12.9v and later goes up to 13.5v again.

Question: WHAT COULD BE WRONG HERE?

2. Battery drains over night. For this reason, I disconnected the battery every time not in use.

Note: Aside this, there is no issue with the car. It runs well, and starts so well all the time.

DavidCN:
I have a Mazda tribute 2001 v6 SUV. My problems basically are:
1. When I start my car in the morning, it starts out fine- reading 14.3v but gradually drops to 13.5 without load(Ac, headlights, radio, inner lights). Sometimes, when the electric fan kicks in full, the voltage drops further down to 12.9v and later goes up to 13.5v again.

Question: WHAT COULD BE WRONG HERE?

2. Battery drains over night. For this reason, I disconnected the battery every time not in use.

Note: Aside this, there is no issue with the car. It runs well, and starts so well all the time.

Generator( alternator ) output is never constant it value depend largely on prevailing conditions ( battery charge level , temperature,) reasons ?to save energy , to cut off unnecessary loading alternator when not necessary and also to prevent overcharging of battery .It is normal for any generator output to drop with increasing load but it will instantaneously rise up correspondingly cos there is a regulating circuit monitoring the load . What matter is that the alternator should not fall up to or below the value of charged battery (12.6v) .
For the battery drain ,that is what is technically referred to as parasitic drain which means a device is permanent on even when the car is turn off .You need a good technicians troubleshoot that one for you .