Hello nairalanders, my camry 96 model come up wit dis funny n dangerous act. Most times wen d engine is very hot due to usage 4 over 2hrs or if traveling...d brake malfuctions. Most time d pedal wil reach d floor level b4 it works wen i apply d brake. I noticed after parkin d car 4 a while to cool,d brake become normal...i hv spent alot on brake mechanics stil havnt seen a solution to it...changed my master breake n the Savo..am really confused. Also noticed wen i drive 4 a long time even witout d use of d AC...d temp rises n d water level reduces...flushed my radiator but stil no change...am tinkin could dis raditor n increase engine temp lead to d brake malfuction? Thanks 4 ur reply n advises..God bless!!!

@ Op is that car an auto transmission? ?

Do you have your Abs light on the instrument cluster?

As for your brake reaching almost the floor level before it works. Am looking at your brake shoes,brake pads and aalso if your Abs module is bad it can lead to that too. So first thing I would tell you to do is if you have your Abs disco light on go ahead and run a comprehensive scan. Although for the 96 camry it has a more tech wsy to scan your Abs unit

As for your overheating issue and you topping your radiator water. You have a leak some where. Check hose connected to the engine for supply of water. Check your radiator. The leak in the radiator can either be internal or external. If its external change radiator rather than patch and if its internal check water pump. Also your radiator cells could be bad

My 5cents later

Gm Mr mayor2013,thkz 4 d reply...d car is an automatic, doesnt hv ABS cusor on, disc in front n drum at d rear wheels,d radiator is unneccesarily hot wen i use AC...and d water level wont reduce if d car doesnt work.

Regarding your brake issue, flush the brake fluid. Use Ate fluid. It comes in square blue short containers. The fluid itself is blue. I experienced most of what you are currently experiencing.

Kashif: Regarding your brake issue, flush the brake fluid. Use Ate fluid. It comes in square blue short containers. The fluid itself is blue. I experienced most of what you are currently experiencing.

Thkz so much bro...where can i get d type can u kindly send d picture.

Ok here we go with the picture. My mechanic bought it so, I guess yours should be able to do same. You can check automobile consumable store yourself.

It may look big in the picture, but it is actually 0.5 litre can. You will need about three. Good luck!

Thkz boss!

Sometimes, experience works better than profession in tackling some issue. In your case, experience is what needs to be applied to get it fixed. That's why an old experienced driver would always know what could be a culprit when a car starts acting up, more than some mechanics. Because he must have had that symptom and got it sorted over and over again. It's the reason I always tell people to stay and find out or ask your mechanic what caused the issue when it has been fixed. Always insist to know, its your right. Sometimes, I would threaten to find another person, if he is not ready to disclose what he did to my car.

Op, if you have not done what Kashif suggested, then properly diagnose the brake system, which is what your mechanic would have done instead of replacing the master cylinder in the first place.

Take out the brake pipes on the master cylinder and watch. Does the cylinder bleed itself? If not, take out the master cylinder from the brake booster (servo). Leave the hydraulic reservoir attached. Fill up the reservoir with water and watch the openings for brake pipes. Is water flowing from those openings now (bleeding itself)? If yes, put the cylinder back on the booster, tight it back on the booster and fill it up a little and watch if it still bleed itself. If yes, you have found your culprit. Bad hydraulic. Remove the cylinder, pour out water and refight it on the booster. Go and buy a good expensive brake hydraulic that is as light as water, fill up the cylinder, bleed and your brake is back.

All these nonsense brake hydraulic in the mechanic will end up making your brake master stopped working. They are as thick as engine oil.

TOTAL HB 4 is the best brake hydraulic I ever used. It looks like water when you pour it out and does perfect job when in brake systems. It cost about 600 - 700 (don't remember the exact amount). You will get it at any TOTAL fuel station.

To bleed the brake wheels, don't pump your pedals. Doing that could damage those rubbers in the master cylinder. Just loose the 4 nipples on the calipers/drums, pour in the hydraulic and gradually, the old bad hydraulic will be pushed out by the new one on the whole brake systems. The TOTAL hydraulic HB 4 is white in color (just like water), while those fake ones are either red or yellowish in colors. So as soon as white hydraulic starts coming out on each of the wheels, then that line has been replaced fully with new hydraulic. Gradually or slowly tighten the nipple. Do the same on the remaining 3 wheels. It means you have flushed the system. If properly done, you may not need to pump the brake and bleed (conventional method of bleeding brake). But, you can still bleed with the conventional method, after you have carried the first procedure I mentioned. In this case, you won't have to pump more than twice on each wheel while bleeding, since almost the whole air trapped in has been earlier pushed out.

If there is no leakage in your brake system, your hydraulic level doesn't drop, then the hydraulic is usually the culprit. Flush the system with good new hydraulic and the problem is gone. Don't waste your money replacing the master cylinder when you have not ruled out the hydraulic.

** Note that for Peugeot cars with ABS and ESP brake systems, the brake must be bled electronically/electrically That is, it has to be bled with PP2000. If not, air will remain trapped in ESP control unit. Conventional bleed method doesn't work on these systems.

Ikenna

Ikenna351: Sometimes, experience works better than profession in tackling some issue. In your case, experience is what needs to be applied to get it fixed. That's why an old experienced driver would always know what could be a culprit when a car starts acting up, more than some mechanics. Because he must have had that symptom and got it sorted over and over again. It's the reason I always tell people to stay and find out or ask your mechanic what caused the issue when it has been fixed. Always insist to know, its your right. Sometimes, I would threaten to find another person, if he is not ready to disclose what he did to my car.

Op, if you have not done what Kashif suggested, then properly diagnose the brake system, which is what your mechanic would have done instead of replacing the master cylinder in the first place.

Take out the brake pipes on the master cylinder and watch. Does the cylinder bleed itself? If not, take out the master cylinder from the brake booster (servo). Leave the hydraulic reservoir attached. Fill up the reservoir with water and watch the openings for brake pipes. Is water flowing from those openings now (bleeding itself)? If yes, put the cylinder back on the booster, tight it back on the booster and fill it up a little and watch if it still bleed itself. If yes, you have found your culprit. Bad hydraulic. Remove the cylinder, pour out water and refight it on the booster. Go and buy a good expensive brake hydraulic that is as light as water, fill up the cylinder, bleed and your brake is back.

All these nonsense brake hydraulic in the mechanic will end up making your brake master stopped working. They are as thick as engine oil.

TOTAL HB 4 is the best brake hydraulic I ever used. It looks like water when you pour it out and does perfect job when in brake systems. It cost about 600 - 700 (don't remember the exact amount). You will get it at any TOTAL fuel station.

To bleed the brake wheels, don't pump your pedals. Doing that could damage those rubbers in the master cylinder. Just loose the 4 nipples on the calipers/drums, pour in the hydraulic and gradually, the old bad hydraulic will be pushed out by the new one on the whole brake systems. The TOTAL hydraulic HB 4 is white in color (just like water), while those fake ones are either red or yellowish in colors. So as soon as white hydraulic starts coming out on each of the wheels, then that line has been replaced fully with new hydraulic. Gradually or slowly tighten the nipple. Do the same on the remaining 3 wheels. It means you have flushed the system. If properly done, you may not need to pump the brake and bleed (conventional method of bleeding brake). But, you can still bleed with the conventional method, after you have carried the first procedure I mentioned. In this case, you won't have to pump more than twice on each wheel while bleeding, since almost the whole air trapped in has been earlier pushed out.

If there is no leakage in your brake system, your hydraulic level doesn't drop, then the hydraulic is usually the culprit. Flush the system with good new hydraulic and the problem is gone. Don't waste your money replacing the master cylinder when you have not ruled out the hydraulic.

** Note that for Peugeot cars with ABS and ESP brake systems, the brake must be bled electronically/electrically That is, it has to be bled with PP2000. If not, air will remain trapped in ESP control unit. Conventional bleed method doesn't work on these systems.

Ikenna

Thanks n God bless!