Recently I noticed this phenomenon, when I'm driving and I come to a temporary stop, say a traffic light with the gear on 'D' and my leg on the break with AC on, I notice that the rpm drops to about 500rpm and at this point the car will begin to vibrate until I accelerate before the vibration will stop. If I stop again with the gear in 'Drive' the same thing happens until I accelerate again. One thing I realise is that this vibration always occurs when the rpm drops to around 500rpm. And yesterday I noticed the "Check Engine" Light is on.

I believe there's a problem somewhere. This is a new engine that I just bought. Is this a very ominous sign? Is it a sign that the engine is bad? What could be responsible for this very low idle rpm to the extent that car will be vibrating?

I called my mechanic and he said I should bring the car for them to use a machine to increase the idle speed. But usually before I allow mechanics to touch my vehicle I like to seek expert opinions from Nairaland first.

Please house what could be wrong with my car. This morning I mistakenly disconnected the negative terminal off my battery, so now the "check engine" light has gone off. Can I still scan the car even with the light off?


Lest I forget, the car is a 2007 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder Automatic Transmission.

Experts should come to my aid please.

God Bless.

Avoid a trial by error . Go for a comprehensive scanning for a 2007 camry it should be a drive by wire. Run a scan first and return here by posting scan result, Then we wld take the next step based on the scan results. Even though your check light is not on go ahead and run a scan

mayor2013: Avoid a trial by error . Go for a comprehensive scanning for a 2007 camry it should be a drive by wire. Run a scan first and return here by posting scan result, Then we wld take the next step based on the scan results. Even though your check light is not on go ahead and run a scan

Mayor can you recommend anywhere in Lagos where I can run a comprehensive scan of such?

And please can you explain what is meant by "drive by wire"?

Did you recently change battery? Or disconnect battery before this happened? If yes, keep driving for a while your car will Re-learn and the rpm will correct its self without you noticing, also scan to see what the dtc code refers too, finally listen for any hissing sounds and vacuum leaks.

Call this number 08165520837 or 08156087872

GAZZUZZ: Did you recently change battery? Or disconnect battery before this happened? If yes, keep driving for a while your car will Re-learn and the rpm will correct its self without you noticing, also scan to see what the dtc code refers too, finally listen for any hissing sounds and vacuum leaks.

Yes, I replaced my battery recently with a new one.
I'll run a scan tomorrow morning and get back to the house on the dtc codes found.

Thanks.

GAZZUZZ: Did you recently change battery? Or disconnect battery before this happened? If yes, keep driving for a while your car will Re-learn and the rpm will correct its self without you noticing, also scan to see what the dtc code refers too, finally listen for any hissing sounds and vacuum leaks.

@Gazzuzz is it also possible tha due to the engine change the car ECU is trying to get accustomed to the new engine?

Bossmd:
@Gazzuzz is it also possible tha due to the engine change the car ECU is trying to get accustomed to the new engine?

It's like you also change the engine, then you need to run a scan on it to know where they need to work on.

GAZZUZZ: Did you recently change battery? Or disconnect battery before this happened? If yes, keep driving for a while your car will Re-learn and the rpm will correct its self without you noticing, also scan to see what the dtc code refers too,finally listen for any hissing sounds and vacuum leaks.

hi Gazzuzz, I hear a hissing sound when I turn off the engine and open the bonnet of my car with 2AZ-FE engine after driving, its brief and stops. Always wondered what that is. Usually thought its normal. Is this a sign of vacumm leak? There is no check engine light in my dashboard.

TCD: hi Gazzuzz, I hear a hissing sound when I turn off the engine and open the bonnet of my car with 2AZ-FE engine after driving, its brief and stops. Always wondered what that is. Usually thought its normal. Is this a sign of vacumm leak? There is no check engine light in my dashboard.

"AFTER" you turn off your car?

When engine is off wait 1min then step on your brakes they should be soft for a few seconds then stiff afterwards, if this does not happen the hissing sound may be comming from a leaking servo (brake booster).

Bossmd:

@Gazzuzz is it also possible that due to the engine change the car ECU is trying to get accustomed to the new engine?

When replacing engine its best to scan vehicle and callibrate, the engine you bought is 2AZ but might have slightly different parts from the original engine. E.g a camry 2007 from canada or the u.s will have slightly different parts from a camry produced in asia.
Most of the engines I buy in ladipo have asian inscriptions on their timing belt and timing chain replacement stickers meaning they are of asian origin most likely japan. This does not mean all engines in ladipo are from japan, it just depends on where the parts and the container originated from.

GAZZUZZ:

When replacing engine its best to scan vehicle and callibrate, the engine you bought is 2AZ but might have slightly different parts from the original engine. E.g a camry 2007 from canada or the u.s will have slightly different parts from a camry produced in asia.
Most of the engines I buy in ladipo have asian inscriptions on their timing belt and timing chain replacement stickers meaning they are of asian origin most likely japan. This does not mean all engines in ladipo are from japan, it just depends on where the parts and the container originated from.

So in this case if vehicle was manufactured in USA and engine came from Japan and no callibration was done prior to mounting the engine, what are your likely suggestions on things that should be done now since vehicle wasn't callibrated to match engine configurations?

Bossmd:

So in this case if vehicle was manufactured in USA and engine came from Japan and no calibration was done prior to mounting the engine, what are your likely suggestions on things that should be done now since vehicle wasn't calibrated to match engine configurations?

The mechanical parts are the same. Just scan and calibrate like most people have suggested, or go back to your original throttle body.

GAZZUZZ:

"AFTER" you turn off your car?

When engine is off wait 1min then step on your brakes they should be soft for a few seconds then stiff afterwards, if this does not happen the hissing sound may be comming from a leaking servo (brake booster).

I did the break test..it goes stiff as you said. What are the signs of a vacum leak?

TCD: I did the break test..it goes stiff as you said. What are the signs of a vacum leak?

Stiff when?
Are your brakes harder than usual?

GAZZUZZ:

Stiff when?
Are your brakes harder than usual?

I turn off the engine, wait one min, depress the break pedal its initially soft then becomes harder and stiff after when depressed.

TCD: I turn off the engine, wait one min, depress the break pedal its initially soft then becomes harder and stiff after when depressed.

It seems fine but Please listen for any hissing sound from your brakebooster

[img]http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSRcbJwvPqGy_w0l8ou_rOvbe3WYWcGrqyiipJsuyrKboiUOwMKT-uwew[/img]

GAZZUZZ: Did you recently change battery? Or disconnect battery before this happened? If yes, keep driving for a while your car will Re-learn and the rpm will correct its self without you noticing, also scan to see what the dtc code refers too, finally listen for any hissing sounds and vacuum leaks.

you are misleading the guy even when the car is learning your driving pattern, revs or idle speed shouldnt drop at all

get your car scanned and work on the using the code

ZIMDRILL:


you are misleading the guy even when the car is learning your driving pattern, revs or idle speed shouldnt drop at all

get your car scanned and work on the using the code

meaning what?

Bossmd: Recently I noticed this phenomenon, when I'm driving and I come to a temporary stop, say a traffic light with the gear on 'D' and my leg on the break with AC on, I notice that the rpm drops to about 500rpm and at this point the car will begin to vibrate until I accelerate before the vibration will stop. If I stop again with the gear in 'Drive' the same thing happens until I accelerate again. One thing I realise is that this vibration always occurs when the rpm drops to around 500rpm. And yesterday I noticed the "Check Engine" Light is on.
I believe there's a problem somewhere. This is a new engine that I just bought. Is this a very ominous sign? Is it a sign that the engine is bad? What could be responsible for this very low idle rpm to the extent that car will be vibrating?
I called my mechanic and he said I should bring the car for them to use a machine to increase the idle speed. But usually before I allow mechanics to touch my vehicle I like to seek expert opinions from Nairaland first.
Please house what could be wrong with my car. This morning I mistakenly disconnected the negative terminal off my battery, so now the "check engine" light has gone off. Can I still scan the car even with the light off?
Lest I forget, the car is a 2007 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder Automatic Transmission.
Experts should come to my aid please.
God Bless.

This is most likely what is happening with the idle on your Camry: Over time their is a build up of deposits in the throttle body that will slowly restrict air flow. If nothing was done the engine idle would slowly become lower and lower. The computer will adjust for the lower idle using its idle control system. Over time the computer will "learn" a new "base idle". When the battery goes dead or is disconnected the new "base idle" is lost from the computer memory. Once the "new" base idle is lost the engine will not idle properly until the computer can relearn the new base idle. This should happen much sooner than 100 drive cycles. One way to speed this process up is to clean the deposits from the throttle body using a spray type parts cleaner and a rag. With the throttle body clean the base idle should be much closer to the computers original base idle and the engine should idle almost normally until the computer can relearn its "new" base idle".

GAZZUZZ:
This is most likely what is happening with the idle on your Camry: Over time their is a build up of deposits in the throttle body that will slowly restrict air flow. If nothing was done the engine idle would slowly become lower and lower. The computer will adjust for the lower idle using its idle control system. Over time the computer will "learn" a new "base idle". When the battery goes dead or is disconnected the new "base idle" is lost from the computer memory. Once the "new" base idle is lost the engine will not idle properly until the computer can relearn the new base idle. This should happen much sooner than 100 drive cycles. One way to speed this process up is to clean the deposits from the throttle body using a spray type parts cleaner and a rag. With the throttle body clean the base idle should be much closer to the computers original base idle and the engine should idle almost normally until the computer can relearn its "new" base idle".

Where is throttle body located sir? And is it a DIY thing?

Bossmd:

Where is throttle body located sir? And is it a DIY thing?

Have you done the scan? I advice you do it first.
[img]http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSHSLy8vkn0MH0I1zm_PYG1QaBWk6bqqs9XIy2l0B-EZsZ2eBnYPdP639tqPQ[/img]
Throttle body.