IdaraCHODB:


Buy 5 times the 5w20 that you need and 5 separate oil filters, drain the 20w50, pour in the 5w20, drive the car with the new oil for 1000 miles and do an oil and filter change, repeat 4 more times with a new filter each time after clocking another 1000 miles between each oil change (if you are not paranoid) OR reduce the interval to 200 miles and do the oil change 5 times with a new filter each time you have clocked 200 miles (if you are paranoid) and you will not have any issues thereafter.


See the very last paragraph, please read it slowly and very carefully!

If I were the one doing the change, I would do the 200 miles option, and do the 200 miles every day for 5 days, and at the last oil change, I would revert to the factory recommended Oil Change Interval!

Unless it can be proved that you have a worn engine, in which case you may have to do 5w30 or 5w40

IdaraCHODB:


Buy 5 times the 5w20 that you need and 5 separate oil filters, drain the 20w50, pour in the 5w20, drive the car with the new oil for 1000 miles and do an oil and filter change, repeat 4 more times with a new filter each time after clocking another 1000 miles between each oil change (if you are not paranoid) OR reduce the interval to 200 miles and do the oil change 5 times with a new filter each time you have clocked 200 miles (if you are paranoid) and you will not have any issues thereafter.


See the very last paragraph of my post above, please read it slowly and very carefully!

If I were the one doing the change, I would do the 200 miles option, and do the 200 miles every day for 5 days, and at the last oil change, I would revert to the factory recommended Oil Change Interval!

Unless it can be proved that you have a worn engine, in which case you may have to do 5w30 or 5w40

GAZZUZZ:
Quality 5W20 cost around 12k for 5liters.

12,000X5 = 60,000. Still more cost effective to replace engine.

Macmilla:

I did what I can rightly call the first 5w-20 change with filter and had to top up about 2l with much less than 1000m drive. What do you have to say about that? Is it a sign of worn engine?
What are the signs of worn engine?

Macmilla:

Let's assume I'm to use mobile 1, it goes for 12k per can. 5x12=60.
So 60k just to change oil? That's enough for a new engine in my honda accord 2001 model, so you should understand if I say ur method is not reasonable for me.

IdaraCHODB:


Life is not sometimes YES or NO, sometimes you also get the answer MAYBE.

In the same vein, we have BLACK and WHITE and GREY.

I just wanted you all to have all the options before you decide that is to say the risk benefit analysis:

1. option 1 continue to use 20W50
2. option 2 switch to 5w20 and use the same engine
3. option 3 switch to 5w20 and use another engine
4. option 4 don't switch but use a different oil say 15w40
5. option 5 switch to 15w40 and use the same engine

Whatever you decide, I simply tried to provide further enlightenment so you take a well-thought out decision, whatever you decide, it all depends on factors that I may not fully appreciate or understand, all I know I simply shared information to aid the decision

If your engine does not show any signs of being worn, why replace it? I certainly wouldn't, especially given that the condition of the tokunbo engine may be hit or miss since its history cannot be absolutely verified

Macmilla:

Thanks, bro. I appreciate your information. Like you said, I'm trying to make an informed decision. If you were in my shoes, considering the price of my engine, what would you do?

Macmilla:

I did what I can rightly call the first 5w-20 change with filter and had to top up about 2l with much less than 1000m drive. What do you have to say about that? Is it a sign of worn engine?
What are the signs of worn engine?

Piyke:




Most manufacturers advise against engine flushes (I am sure of Honda) especially in modern vehicles. Except you have a valid sludge case, I wouldn't advice anyone to do an engine flush simply because you want to switch to a lower weight oil. Note that some people have developed problems following flushes. If you do regular highway driving and maintain oil changes as scheduled you shouldn't have sludge.

xcitedjay:


Signs of worn engine includes; Smoking, loss of power, oil shortage, etc.

Changing your engine will definitely earn you a greater peace of mind.

Macmilla:

Just found where my expensive 5w-20 has been leaking from. I'm so happy cos it means my engine is not dead as implied by this thread cos fixing will markedly reduce if not stop the oil shortages.

GAZZUZZ:


Where is it leaking from?

Macmilla:

I don't know how to describe it cos I'm not a mech.
It's leaking from the joint between the bottom pan and the engine block. My mech will loosen the pan, put gasket gum or whatever and mount it back.

Macmilla:

Update:
After almost two weeks of battling with my oil leak, I think I finally fixed the damn thing.
Initially, we thought it was my bottom pan but after remounting it twice and finally replacing it with a new one, we kept seeing oil down there and my oil level kept going down. We then had to think out of the box. My mech opened the plastic covering the timing belt and lo and behold, the whole place was messed up with oil. It was leaking obviously from the crankshaft oil seal and oil pump oil seal. It drains down to mess up the pan making us think the pan is the culprit. We changed both oil seals. I'll still watch to make sure it has completely stopped.

So, to all those facing oil shortages after going back to 5w-20, just go under there, find where it's dropping from and plug it up. Nothing to worry about. Check the pan and all the oil seals on the block.

The oil starts leaking because it's much lighter than the 20w-50 which you have been using and therefore penetrates worn cleavages that 20w-50 would not penetrate.

I think the ppl that got knocked engine were not observant enough to notice the leakage and eventually they had an empty engine that knocked. Common sense should tell us that an engine with the recommended oil IN IT should not knock unless the oil is no longer in it.

So my own advice, change to the recommended oil, your engine won't knock. Mine didn't. Just watch out for leaks over a week or two of active driving. If any leaks, fix it ASAP and your engine will be happy. If you don't watch out for leaks by checking your oil regularly, ur oil might drain completely and ur engine will pack.

#myexperience

IdaraCHODB:


I totally second the above. I inspect all fluids levels every morning, I also inspect the car from up and from the bottom every now and then, I am my first and foremost mechanic. There is so much you can observe that no mechanic will ever observe!

Macmilla:

Exactly. It doesn't matter the kind of job you do, you should enter under your car once in a while. My job is non close to a mech job, but I was under the car severally. Just jack the car, spread a mat on the floor and squeeze in. It's even fun to know what the beast looks like from beneath.

Macmilla:

Update:
After almost two weeks of battling with my oil leak, I think I finally fixed the damn thing.
Initially, we thought it was my bottom pan but after remounting it twice and finally replacing it with a new one, we kept seeing oil down there and my oil level kept going down. We then had to think out of the box. My mech opened the plastic covering the timing belt and lo and behold, the whole place was messed up with oil. It was leaking obviously from the crankshaft oil seal and oil pump oil seal. It drains down to mess up the pan making us think the pan is the culprit. We changed both oil seals. I'll still watch to make sure it has completely stopped.
So, to all those facing oil shortages after going back to 5w-20, just go under there, find where it's dropping from and plug it up. Nothing to worry about. Check the pan and all the oil seals on the block.
The oil starts leaking because it's much lighter than the 20w-50 which you have been using and therefore penetrates worn cleavages that 20w-50 would not penetrate.
I think the ppl that got knocked engine were not observant enough to notice the leakage and eventually they had an empty engine that knocked. Common sense should tell us that an engine with the recommended oil IN IT should not knock unless the oil is no longer in it.
So my own advice, change to the recommended oil, your engine won't knock. Mine didn't. Just watch out for leaks over a week or two of active driving. If any leaks, fix it ASAP and your engine will be happy. If you don't watch out for leaks by checking your oil regularly, ur oil might drain completely and ur engine will pack.
#myexperience

chiboyo:


This is very informative, would ensure that I implement on my next servicing..
Please does anybody have any idea where I can get 5W-20 grade in PH?

lomomike:


Now you know how it feels romancing the beast of burden you bought with your cash.

Segzie8180:


You can still use the recommended engine oil. The mistake you made is that you could have flush the first before changing the oil then. It's because majority of our mechanics don't even know the difference in these engine oil. They could have advised you better to use an engine flush before changing the oil. It works. ...

chukel:
guy please, in the name of God, stop posting toxic stuff here. This is a public forum and people tend to swallow stuff hook, line and sinker here. You still don't get it. The problem is that those synthetic have detergent property that washes off the sludge formed by 20w50 which is protecting the expanded rubber seals of the engine. When u "flush" in your context, u have just done what the detergent property of 5w20 would do but in a rather rapid way. This is just a recipe for leakages and rattling and hastened engine knock. So if u have used 20w50 for a long time, stick to it. No doubt manufacturer recommended oil grade is the best. Macmilla, was lucky with the location of his leakage. Most others may have very bad internal leakages that will end up as burnt oil.

Macmilla:

Let's assume I'm to use mobile 1, it goes for 12k per can. 5x12=60.
So 60k just to change oil? That's enough for a new engine in my honda accord 2001 model, so you should understand if I say ur method is not reasonable for me.

Macmilla:

Update:
After almost two weeks of battling with my oil leak, I think I finally fixed the damn thing.
Initially, we thought it was my bottom pan but after remounting it twice and finally replacing it with a new one, we kept seeing oil down there and my oil level kept going down. We then had to think out of the box. My mech opened the plastic covering the timing belt and lo and behold, the whole place was messed up with oil. It was leaking obviously from the crankshaft oil seal and oil pump oil seal. It drains down to mess up the pan making us think the pan is the culprit. We changed both oil seals. I'll still watch to make sure it has completely stopped.
So, to all those facing oil shortages after going back to 5w-20, just go under there, find where it's dropping from and plug it up. Nothing to worry about. Check the pan and all the oil seals on the block.
The oil starts leaking because it's much lighter than the 20w-50 which you have been using and therefore penetrates worn cleavages that 20w-50 would not penetrate.
I think the ppl that got knocked engine were not observant enough to notice the leakage and eventually they had an empty engine that knocked. Common sense should tell us that an engine with the recommended oil IN IT should not knock unless the oil is no longer in it.
So my own advice, change to the recommended oil, your engine won't knock. Mine didn't. Just watch out for leaks over a week or two of active driving. If any leaks, fix it ASAP and your engine will be happy. If you don't watch out for leaks by checking your oil regularly, ur oil might drain completely and ur engine will pack.
#myexperience

GAZZUZZ:


6years! Don't know the oil change intervals but I can guess, sludge is presently protecting the engine from failure, once you introduce "the original" but a thiner oil that takes car of the sludge problem, then you start having the oil shortages, then the rattling then finally the knock. Iv seen it happen twice.

Oseremhen:
I just replaced my engine oil with mobil xhp 20w 50 which I'm beginning to feel was a big mistake after reading this thread. My question is can I use mobil 1 5w 30 instead of 5w20 manufacturers recommendation as mobil 1 5w20 is not sold around here (trust me I've searched) I drive a 2008 honda accord. Thanks

IdaraCHODB:
For the last 90 days on carcomplaints website 2007 Toyota Camry owners bitterly complained of the vehicle burning oil has been trending.

I have also been able to establish from the same website that the 2007 - 2008 Toyota Solara suffers from the same problem.

Indeed the description of the problem seems to fit the pattern described by the owner of a 2006 Toyota Solara as above, which leads me to the unsubstantiated but most likely true conclusion that he might have been mistaken in blaming the engine oil instead of the engine and by extension the manufacturer for his woes

Symptoms of excessive oil consumption include:

1. Having your "oil pressure" light come on halfway through your maintenance schedule

2. Having your engine burn through as much as 1 quart of oil in 1,200 miles

3. Being told that your engine burning through oil is "normal" and "nothing to be alarmed of"

4. Having t come back with a damaged, oil-deprived engine only to be denied warranty coverage.

You can confirm the above by running a search against the toyotaproblems website from which most of the above was sourced.

edoyad:


So instead of changing oil types I should just stick with the 5w30 but with have an extra litre in the boot then. Okay, let me try that for a while

IdaraCHODB:


Have an extra litre or to be safe a whole gallon and check your oil level every morning! or worst case every 1,000 miles!!

Some of the stories on this issue are quite touching, matter of fact, for most of them by the time they notice the oil is too low it is too late since oil is to the engine what blood is to human life!

Frankdamaxx:
After using Total 20w50 for 6 years plus on my 2001 Honda Civic, Is there any effect if i want to change to the manufacturers recommended 5w20?