A battery cell at 0.33v is likely dead. Adding a healthy battery in parallel is just going to kill the healthy battery too.

Some things once dead are best left dead. I believe this is such a case.

OP should just go buy a replacement cell and continue with that. The cells appeared used anyways so failure of 1 or 2 in a large bank is possible

ojeysky:


Bros you don't need a charger, just connect good 2v cells in parallel with the one with an issue. The good one will try to charge up the one with issue....

GeorgeD1:


not only lg/hisense. you also have haier thermocool genpal acs which work on the same principle as lg inverter acs.
i presently have installed 1hp and 1.5hp genpal acs and they work beautifully on my inverter system.
where you run 1 conventional ac, you can replace with at least 2 or 3 genpal acs, so over time, the energy
savings is worth the additional cost.

Quick one about the Genpal ACs...

Do they have dedicated On and Off power commands from the remote? Or is it simply a power toggle.

I hope you understand what I mean by this... If not, I can explain further.

I am looking for an inverter AC with dedicated On and Off commands


(I think only folks that run smarthome systems will understand the need for this small but very crucial distinction)

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MontyNG:



Quick one about the Genpal ACs...

Do they have dedicated On and Off power commands from the remote? Or is it simply a power toggle.

I hope you understand what I mean by this... If not, I can explain further.

I am looking for an inverter AC with dedicated On and Off commands


(I think only folks that run smarthome systems will understand the need for this small but very crucial distinction)

They are not smart ACs if you want to automate do so from the switch that connects the AC itself

MontyNG:



Quick one about the Genpal ACs...

Do they have dedicated On and Off power commands from the remote? Or is it simply a power toggle.

I hope you understand what I mean by this... If not, I can explain further.

I am looking for an inverter AC with dedicated On and Off commands

(I think only folks that run smarthome systems will understand the need for this small but very crucial distinction)

this is a typical genpal remote control. the red button is the power button but i think ojeysky already answered your
question in his post above.

ojeysky:


They are not smart ACs if you want to automate do so from the switch that connects the AC itself

@GeorgeD1

GeorgeD1: this is a typical genpal remote control. the red button is the power button but i think ojeysky already answered your
question in his post above.

Ok
I kinda guessed I'll be misunderstood. I wasn't asking about smart ACs.

OK this is a small test to know if your AC has dedicated "on and off IR codes" , or just a "power toggle IR code"


So with your Genpal AC off,

- switch it on with the remote. The AC beeps and comes on (simple enough)

- then stick it in your pocket (or Walk out the room) the press the remote power button again
(This is so the AC doesn't respond)

- Now bring it out your pocket, (or go back to the room) and press the power button on the remote again (third time now)

Does:

A) your AC beeps and goes off
B) your AC beeps but stays on
C) your AC doesn't respond


If A), then the AC just has a power toggle IR code (i.e I believe most ACs are like this) e.g The LG/Hisense ACs

If B), then the AC has dedicated On and Off IR codes. e.g The Solstar branded AC is like this

If C), Bros, change the batteries of your remote and do the test again from the beginning


Let me know which it is.

So far, I know that

Option A examples:
LG, Hisense

Option B example:
Solstar, (Panasonic?)

MontyNG:


@GeorgeD1


Ok
I kinda guessed I'll be misunderstood. I wasn't asking about smart ACs.

OK this is a small test to know if your AC has dedicated "on and off IR codes" , or just a "power toggle IR code"


So with your Genpal AC off,

- switch it on with the remote. The AC beeps and comes on (simple enough)

- then stick it in your pocket (or Walk out the room) the press the remote power button again
(This is so the AC doesn't respond)

- Now bring it out your pocket, (or go back to the room) and press the power button on the remote again (third time now)

Does:

A) your AC beeps and goes off
B) your AC beeps but stays on
C) your AC doesn't respond


If A), then the AC just has a power toggle IR code (i.e I believe most ACs are like this) e.g The LG/Hisense ACs

If B), then the AC has dedicated On and Off IR codes. e.g The Solstar branded AC is like this

If C), Bros, change the batteries of your remote and do the test again from the beginning


Let me know which it is.

So far, I know that

Option A examples:
LG, Hisense

Option B example:
Solstar, (Panasonic?)

The AC will do B because when you went out of the room and pressed the power button again it simply just turn off the remote. Next time you hit power button on the remote from the room, it will only power the remote and you then need to press again for the AC to react. At least that is how my genpal, gencool and normal thermocool AC behaves

MontyNG:


@GeorgeD1


Ok
I kinda guessed I'll be misunderstood. I wasn't asking about smart ACs.

OK this is a small test to know if your AC has dedicated "on and off IR codes" , or just a "power toggle IR code"


So with your Genpal AC off,

- switch it on with the remote. The AC beeps and comes on (simple enough)

- then stick it in your pocket (or Walk out the room) the press the remote power button again
(This is so the AC doesn't respond)

- Now bring it out your pocket, (or go back to the room) and press the power button on the remote again (third time now)

Does:

A) your AC beeps and goes off
B) your AC beeps but stays on
C) your AC doesn't respond


If A), then the AC just has a power toggle IR code (i.e I believe most ACs are like this) e.g The LG/Hisense ACs

If B), then the AC has dedicated On and Off IR codes. e.g The Solstar branded AC is like this

If C), Bros, change the batteries of your remote and do the test again from the beginning


Let me know which it is.

So far, I know that

Option A examples:
LG, Hisense

Option B example:
Solstar, (Panasonic?)

bro, ojeysky is correct. it will do option b
the power button when pressed turns on the remote as well as sends signal to the ac to start working.
you don't even have to put it in your pocket and leave the room. all you have to do is switch off the remote
by pressing the power button while blocking the ir signal with the palm of your hands. when you remove your
palms and press it again, ac stays on.

GeorgeD1:


bro, ojeysky is correct. it will do option b
the power button when pressed turns on the remote as well as sends signal to the ac to start working.
you don't even have to put it in your pocket and leave the room. all you have to do is switch off the remote
by pressing the power button while blocking the ir signal with the palm of your hands. when you remove your
palms and press it again, ac stays on.

The simple answer is that the AC has a power toggle. It sends out single IR power code. The AC reacts based on its state. If AC is off, the signal will turn on the AC, if it is on, it will turn it off.

We used to call what the OP is asking for "Discrete Codes" where the signal for ON and OFF are different and separate and the remote will usually have an ON and another OFF button rather than a single POWER button.

GeorgeD1:


depending on the grade/quality, gel batteries are fine. however, they are not as forgiving as agm batteries when
subject to abuse. just make sure you get a reliable charger to go with it and ensure you don't routinely dip them
beyond 80% dod.

I think it’s better I opt for AGM batteries since they can afford dip occasionally.
I ask this question because I know of a solar installer who mainly used “MAXIMUM” batteries for his customers. I’m kind of inquisitive to why he’s doing that.
I can’t ask him because I feel he won’t be sincere with his answer. He was the one that advised I can be using car battery as substitute for my LiFePO4 but unfortunately the results from the car battery is not encouraging so I had to stop using it. Since then I don’t want to agree with his advices again.

So oga George, your sincere opinion will be appreciated

Penuelseun:
Depends on the type of desktop powerpack you get. This is the type I use. But mind you, the max output voltage of this is 12.9v, but maybe you can get other types with higher voltage

Thanks for showing. Let’s assume I’ve gotten this desktop power power pack can you put me tru how to go ahead with the connections

Secondly can laptop charger serve this purpose

gadgetplanetng:


Olopan gave you the right way to connect them.

olopan:
The battery appears dead!

If it's possible to parallel a few good ones (3-6) and parallel it with the faulty battery ... There is a slim chance that the inrush current might rejuvenate it, though unlikely but it is worth a shot

NiyiOmoIyunade:
A battery cell at 0.33v is likely dead. Adding a healthy battery in parallel is just going to kill the healthy battery too.

Some things once dead are best left dead. I believe this is such a case.

OP should just go buy a replacement cell and continue with that. The cells appeared used anyways so failure of 1 or 2 in a large bank is possible

Please does any anyone knows how I can get just one of the batteries and what possible price.

By a rough estimate, 80-40k

Jiji is a good place to start

haslaw:


Please does any anyone knows how I can get just one of the batteries and what possible price.

ojeysky:


The AC will do B because when you went out of the room and pressed the power button again it simply just turn off the remote. Next time you hit power button on the remote from the room, it will only power the remote and you then need to press again for the AC to react. At least that is how my genpal, gencool and normal thermocool AC behaves

OK nice one. So you've just answered my question for me then. The Genpal ACs have discreet on and off commands. And since they have inverter versions... I will even be replacing my Hisense inverter with the Genpal.
The Hisense ACs are like option A which kinda annoys me especially setting up my Automations.

Exactly what I meant.

Will get the genpal

Cheers bro

adrusa:


The simple answer is that the AC has a power toggle. It sends out single IR power code. The AC reacts based on its state. If AC is off, the signal will turn on the AC, if it is off, it will turn it on.

We used to call what the OP is asking for "Discrete Codes" where the signal for ON and OFF are different and separate and the remote will usually have an ON and another OFF button rather than a single POWER button.

funshyboi:


I think it’s better I opt for AGM batteries since they can afford dip occasionally.
I ask this question because I know of a solar installer who mainly used “MAXIMUM” batteries for his customers. I’m kind of inquisitive to why he’s doing that.
I can’t ask him because I feel he won’t be sincere with his answer. He was the one that advised I can be using car battery as substitute for my LiFePO4 but unfortunately the results from the car battery is not encouraging so I had to stop using it. Since then I don’t want to agree with his advices again.

So oga George, your sincere opinion will be appreciated

if you have the option of a good quality agm battery, i will advise you go for it instead of the gel cell batteries.
they are the better choice outside of lithium.

Hisense inverter ACs have IR toggle codes. I use a sonnof for power automation.

MontyNG:



Quick one about the Genpal ACs...

Do they have dedicated On and Off power commands from the remote? Or is it simply a power toggle.

I hope you understand what I mean by this... If not, I can explain further.

I am looking for an inverter AC with dedicated On and Off commands


(I think only folks that run smarthome systems will understand the need for this small but very crucial distinction)

I faced this problem sometime in my RE journey - how to switch ON/OFF my ACs via remote command and adjust temperature too.

I consider switching ON/OFF the power supply via home automation or remote commands an inelegant solution. Certainly the AC compressors will not appreciate you for this practice.

Look into a programmable IR remote emulator called Sensibo or similar Asian ilk.

This is the elegant way to do what you desire and you also have fine control of temperature as well. Sensibo costs a ton, there may be cheaper Asian clones you could use.

MontyNG:


OK nice one. So you've just answered my question for me then. The Genpal ACs have discreet on and off commands. And since they have inverter versions... I will even be replacing my Hisense inverter with the Genpal.
The Hisense ACs are like option A which kinda annoys me especially setting up my Automations.

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GeorgeD1:


if you have the option of a good quality agm battery, i will advise you go for it instead of the gel cell batteries.
they are the better choice outside of lithium.

Good advice as usual !

litaninja:
Hisense inverter ACs have IR toggle codes. I use a sonnof for power automation.

Yeah I was doing that... But I can't imagine that will be good for the compressor. Did some research on it and these ACs have a "power down" routine which it wouldn't go through if you automate using the socket rather than remote.

I have something similar to the sensibo where I can switch on and off with IR and and change temp. But that didn't work well with the Hisense/LG ACs as there was no way for me to know the current state of the AC.

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Yes indeed. I noticed the "power down" routine with the AC as well and been thinking of how to turn off properly instead of just cutting the power.
So far, what I've thought I'd do is detect the power state of the AC via its current power consumption (I use sonnoff POW R2s) and then decide what IR codes & number of toggles, etc need to be sent to the AC.
So I know the fan only mode is about 30W, dry cool is about 700W, full cool is above 900W. Also have to take the amount of time in those states into consideration as it doesn't just ramp up the power usage in a rush. I never get im time sha.
Till I stroll down to arena for the WiFi/IR bridge parts, I'll figure it out.

MontyNG:


Yeah I was doing that... But I can't imagine that will be good for the compressor. Did some research on it and these ACs have a "power down" routine which it wouldn't go through if you automate using the socket rather than remote.

I have something similar to the sensibo where I can switch on and off with IR and and change temp. But that didn't work well with the Hisense/LG ACs as there was no way for me to know the current state of the AC.

litaninja:
Yes indeed. I noticed the "power down" routine with the AC as well and been thinking of how to turn off properly instead of just cutting the power.
So far, what I've thought I'd do is detect the power state of the AC via its current power consumption (I use sonnoff POW R2s) and then decide what IR codes & number of toggles, etc need to be sent to the AC.
So I know the fan only mode is about 30W, dry cool is about 700W, full cool is above 900W. Also have to take the amount of time in those states into consideration as it doesn't just ramp up the power usage in a rush. I never get im time sha.
Till I stroll down to arena for the WiFi/IR bridge parts, I'll figure it out.

Or... just get a genpal AC with distinct on and off codes... so no need to be reading off the sonoff output and doing complex calculations.
This is what I intend doing. So once I send the "power off" IR code to the AC, I can be sure it's off without having to read off consumption from the sonoff. I've now set it up so that about 10mins after the AC goes off in the mornings, the sonoff switches off as well. And the reverse happens in the evenings when the AC should be coming on.

IR bridges are not expensive at all. Sensibo is, but there are other ones available like broadlink that work just as well

litaninja:
Yes indeed. I noticed the "power down" routine with the AC as well and been thinking of how to turn off properly instead of just cutting the power.
So far, what I've thought I'd do is detect the power state of the AC via its current power consumption (I use sonnoff POW R2s) and then decide what IR codes & number of toggles, etc need to be sent to the AC.
So I know the fan only mode is about 30W, dry cool is about 700W, full cool is above 900W. Also have to take the amount of time in those states into consideration as it doesn't just ramp up the power usage in a rush. I never get im time sha.
Till I stroll down to arena for the WiFi/IR bridge parts, I'll figure it out.

I was quite concerned with the switch approach as well but after looking at options it was the only option I could live with......my consolation is that my AC switch only triggers at certain battery SOC so it doesn't happen often.

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