Good day all. Its been some time now I came here.

My car has been having this pinging sound as if two metal pans are hitting each other when in motion. This pinging sound I get from my engine which is most noticeable when engine warms up or under climbing load is followed by a resultant loss in power.

Please people what is responsible for that? How can I nail it?

pragmatistm:
Good day all. Its been some time now I came here.

My car has been having this pinging sound as if two metal pans are hitting each other when in motion. This pinging sound I get from my engine which is most noticeable when engine warms up or under climbing load is followed by a resultant loss in power.

Please people what is responsible for that? How can I nail it?

Knock sensor.
If it uses a distributor, check settings with a timing light bulb

GAZZUZZ:


Knock sensor.
If it uses a distributor, check settings with a timing light bulb

Thanks. But please can you shed more light on where the knock sensor is located and how to fix it? Right now the mechanic does not seem to have an idea. Where is and how can I or the mechanic check the distributor/settings?

Knock sensor located on your engine block at the rear

[img]http://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.M1631e73313b22c27abb154f6853b8f8bo0&w=150&h=112&c=7&p=0&dpr=2.075&pid=1.7[/img]

You should still consult the oracle..

Siena:
The issues you're having are detonation.

The knock sensor is detecting detonation, and each time it occurs, your ECU will retàrd your ignition timing, anywhere from 3 - 9 degrees. It will then advance your timing when detonation reduces, or stops.

This will cause a reduction in power output.

Common causes:

Excessive carbon build up in the combustion chambers.
Incorrect grade of spark plug.
Incorrect timing (over advanced).
Incorrect grade of fuel (octane level too low).
Poor fuel grade (adulterated).
Oil burning in combustion chambers.
Excessive boost (only applicable to turbocharged petrol engines).
Intake air temperature too high.
Faulty knock sensor/s.
Fuel mixture too lean.

Have you had your car scanned for codes? I would NOT drive the car until the detonation issues are resolved. Otherwise you run the risk of melting your piston crowns, or burning out your exhaust valves.

So it's this serious. I will do a scan asap and revert. Thanks all. I appreciate.

Meanwhile the MAF has stopped working this morning and the car does not work again. When it starts it stall in few seconds. I'm in the process of replacing it now.

pragmatistm:


So it's this serious. I will do a scan asap and revert. Thanks all. I appreciate.

Meanwhile the MAF has stopped working this morning and the car does not work again. When it starts it stall in few seconds. I'm in the process of replacing it now.

Only you?

Update people. I was able to replace the MAF. Car works again.

But I need to go to the mechanic because of the main issues I raised on this thread. I need your advice. Should I ask him to open the cylinder and try to remove the carbon build up in there.

GAZZUZZ:


Only you?

Actually, it has been giving failure signs since two weeks now.I just said I should clean it up again with carb spray and it just stopped working after I did that this morning.

pragmatistm:
Update people. I was able to replace the MAF. Car works again.

But I need to go to the mechanic because of the main issues I raised on this thread. I need your advice. Should I ask him to open the cylinder and try to remove the carbon build up in there.



Actually, it has been giving failure signs since two weeks now.I just said I should clean it up again with carb spray and it just stopped working after I did that this morning.

You killed it!!!

Carb cleaner is too strong for MAF

GAZZUZZ:


You killed it!!!

Carb cleaner is too strong for MAF

Accepted. But please advise me on how the mechanic should approach the main repairs.

pragmatistm:

Accepted. But please advise me on how the mechanic should approach the main repairs.

Change MAF I'm sure all will be fine after that

GAZZUZZ:


Change MAF I'm sure all will be fine after that

I have done that yesterday. I did it myself at a cost of around 5k. The car drives better now but I don't know if the main issue remain. until I flog the engine on perhaps a hilly road again then I will observe the performance further.

I guess you're right that problem will solve with MAF change. I discover a little difference between original MAF and the replacement. Original is lacking one small part seen on the Tokunbo I purchased as you can see from the photo here. it must be the reason for the poor performance observed.Oga,quite an age.

buy a personal scanner. this your car wahala has been too long. i thought you said you are in abuja. car scan available. 09099447385. chiebube

boldx:
buy a personal scanner. this your car wahala has been too long. i thought you said you are in abuja. car scan available. 09099447385. chiebube

Thanks. But I never mentioned anywhere that I'm in Abuja. Also, a car scanner does not stop car from developing faults to my understanding.It can only give codes that you need experts to interpret for solutions for faults. And the gurus are already helping out on that.

Is this how troublesome this p11-144 is?I'm about buying one for my wife(manual).house,is it advisable?cuz I'm scared already.

Lordscrown:
Is this how troublesome this p11-144 is?I'm about buying one for my wife(manual).house,is it advisable?cuz I'm scared already.

"troublesome...scared." But nay, which car is immune to the issue raised by the thread? For a car that is at least 15 years old as your prospective car would be, you can only wish and hope (pray?) that it's in good enough condition.

pragmatistm:

Thanks. But I never mentioned anywhere that I'm in Abuja. Also, a car scanner does not stop car from developing faults to my understanding.It can only give codes that you need experts to interpret for solutions for faults. And the gurus are already helping out on that.

I am sorry oh. What i am saying is you need to get an obd II scanner. And even if you have a scanner, its not wrong to ask the 'pros'. For me, i deal with my own codes from experience and research. I learnt the hard way about 5 years ago with mechanics so i aint taking chances anymore. cheers.

Lolz.

Costee:

"troublesome...scared." But nay, which car is immune to the issue raised by the thread? For a car that is at least 15 years old as your prospective car would be, you can only wish and hope (pray?) that it's in good enough condition.

Update. With the MAF replacement, the performance drastically improved. The pinging sound is almost totally gone. The car drives a lot better. You can only faintly hear it a few times unlike before when almost always on flat or hilly road the noise was present.

But for better performance, can I still ask the mechanic to carry out maintenance on the cylinder and try to remove the carbon build up in there?

Update. The noise is getting back again with power loss especially when climbing a hill. How do I nail this fault?

pragmatistm:
Update. The noise is getting back again with power loss especially when climbing a hill. How do I nail this fault?

It seems you have a problem with your car's fuel delivery. Your fuel pump from your last story looks weak. Carry out a fuel pump pressure test, or use a professional diagnostic tester to check for wave patterns of fuel trim

mayor2013:


It seems you have a problem with your car's fuel delivery. Your fuel pump from your last story looks weak. Carry out a fuel pump pressure test, or use a professional diagnostic tester to check for wave patterns of fuel trim

Would have loved to do that but such services not available here.

pragmatistm:
Would have loved to do that but such services not available here.

u can use this diagnostics tool to achieve your purpose : fuel trim,live data stream, DTC,recording etc
https://www.nairaland.com/2078663/bonanza-fastest-automobile-scanner-obdlink.

Finally people, my colleague helped me to scan the car with his new OBD II diagnostics system. The following codes and comments were obtained:

1.P0335 crankshaft position A circuit
2. P0180 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit
3.P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) cog
4.P0141 02 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2
5. P1777 DTC Definition not availabe
6. P0740 Torgue converter clutch circuit/open
7. P0745 pressure control solenoid A


Since the time I changed the MAF the slow running of the car is not steady. It runs around 800rpm with occasional drop off to like 600rpm accompanied with achange in the engine sound.


Kindly help me torchlight the codes for solution. Thanks.

@all, I'm still expecting your guidelines on the codes obtained please.

please sell this car immediately you are able to fix it. Devourers at work.

please sell this car immediately you are able to fix it. Devourers at work...

boldx:
please sell this car immediately you are able to fix it. Devourers at work...

But why? please tell me why.

Erase the codes, drive a few miles and scan again

nissparts:
Erase the codes, drive a few miles and scan again

I will do that.

Please as you are helping me to decode the error codes if there is any code related to the auto transmission you may ignore it. The transmission was replaced with another one which is not the CVT type that was there before. That left many connectors on the former transmission unused and that will bring many error codes that can't be resolved. We only need to concentrate on the present issue.
Thanks.