GeorgeD1:


bro, i wouldn't jump to such conclusions yet if i were you.

stand alone charge controllers are still way ahead of their hybrid siblings in terms of performance and features and
those that value battery longevity will choose them over hybrids any day and anytime.

personally, i don't think i would be singing such high praises of my recently sold off zenith batteries if my cc had
been a hybrid.

The bolded may not be entirely true. After buying my Felicity charge controller to replace the Fangpusun that stopped working, I explore the cyberspace to see if I can get software for it. Since the Felicity guys in China told me that they don't have software for it, I started looking out for similar CC presuming that it must be a clone of another brand just like their hybrid inverter is a clone of MPP Solar PIP-4048.

I finally hit gold when I discovered that MPP Solar sells a CC that looks and works like Felicity CC. Indeed, the user manual of the two CCs are identical. Further investigation showed that the CC in the MPP hybrid inverter is basically the same as the standalone CC. The only difference is that the standalone CC has its own software and hardware sensors managing it, while the CC in the hybrid inverter shared software and hardware sensors with the inverter.

So, the CC in the hybrid inverter is probably not worse than the standalone CC at the hardware level.

That said, I also personally prefer standalone inverters and CCs to the hybrids, but that may be because that is what I'm used to. Felicity is my first hybrid and I'm not even using its built-in CC, just the inverter and occasionally, using it to charge my batteries with NEPA.

So I envisage challenges with self-mounting my panels cos they will be higher up the roof where there is currently spaces for them. So I will need to hire the services of an avid "roof climber" to mount the solar panels.

But I still need to have full control of my installations as subsequent tinkering and panel reconfiguration may come in occasionally. So I was thinking of a viable way to achieve that, bypassing the restriction of my free access to the roof.

One idea that came to mind is extending the wires of each panel (via MC4s and 6mm wires) by as much as 14ft to 20ft to terminate at a point where I have access to. At this point there will be a junction box with busbars where I can comfortably manipulate and connect those terminal panel wires

From the junction box, I envisage using a 10mm gauge wire to terminate at DCBs. Then another 10mm from the DCBs to terminate at the panel input of the SCC. Also 10mm wire the rest of the way to the battery terminals.

There is a picture illustration. Do you guys think my ideas are reasonable, especially that part about using 6mm duo core to extend the panel wires to a junction box 20 feet (around 6 meters) away?

Thanks for your anticipated advice.

ceaser:
So I envisage challenges with self-mounting my panels cos they will be higher up the roof where there is currently spaces for them. So I will need to hire the services of an avid "roof climber" to mount the solar panels.

But I still need to have full control of my installations as subsequent tinkering and panel reconfiguration may come in occasionally. So I was thinking of a viable way to achieve that, bypassing the restriction of my free access to the roof.

One idea that came to mind is extending the wires of each panel (via MC4s and 6mm wires) by as much as 14ft to 20ft to terminate at a point where I have access to. At this point there will be a junction box with busbars where I can comfortably manipulate and connect those terminal panel wires

From the junction box, I envisage using a 10mm gauge wire to terminate at DCBs. Then another 10mm from the DCBs to terminate at the panel input of the SCC. Also 10mm wire the rest of the way to the battery terminals.

There is a picture illustration. Do you guys think my ideas are reasonable, especially that part about using 6mm duo core to extend the panel wires to a junction box 20 feet (around 6 meters) away?

Thanks for your anticipated advice.

Why not maintain 10mm for the 14ft extension as well? Unless this is a 48v system and you won't be doing heavy load, I will suggest that wire guage for battery to inverter be more than 10mm.

Regards

Hi the Gurus in the house,please i need your guide with the following,i use a 200ah tubular battery with a 1000w msw standalone inverter and a standalone charger while my watt load is approximately 200w max between 8am-4pm(i do have phcn light during the day so its not like i drain the battery i never go below 12.1v) but drop to about 60watts load in the evening. I would like to know what number of solar panels and in what order should i get to charge my battery fully while also running my gadgets 8am-4pm and also the range of charge controller to use keeping in mind that additions can be made in future to the panels. I will really be grateful for your inputs and also suggestions on types to get. Thanks

Pls who has lithium 3s 20A BMS for sale?

ojeysky:


Why not maintain 10mm for the 14ft extension as well? Unless this is a 48v system and you won't be doing heavy load, I will suggest that wire guage for battery to inverter be more than 10mm.

Regards

Thanks.

It's a 48v system. 100amp SCC, 320 watts panel each, 3s2p stat and sure to add more strings in future expansion.

Ordinarily what I would have done had the roof been accessible is to use the panel cables as they come (without extensions) and no junction box (just 3-to-1 MC4 multi), then use a 6mm or 10mm all the way to the SCC.

But with the requirement of an extension, I was thinking 6mm as extension will not be too bad, and then 10mm from the junction box.

I totally agree with your suggestion of a heavier guage from the battery to inverter (I've always used heavier guages for even smaller system, let alone this). And the inverter is 5kva/48v, so that will be some work horse handling heavy loads.

ceaser:


Thanks.

It's a 48v system. 100amp SCC, 320 watts panel each, 3s2p stat and sure to add more strings in future expansion.

Ordinarily what I would have done had the roof been accessible is to use the panel cables as they come (without extensions) and no junction box (just 3-to-1 MC4 multi), then use a 6mm or 10mm all the way to the SCC.

But with the requirement of an extension, I was thinking 6mm as extension will not be too bad, and then 10mm from the junction box.

I totally agree with your suggestion of a heavier guage from the battery to inverter (I've always used heavier guages for even smaller system, let alone this). And the inverter is 5kva/48v, so that will be some work horse handling heavy loads.

It's certainly not bad bro, after all a typical panel cable is within 4 to 8(my 280w is 4mm), your 320 is probably 6mm already so I think you are good

ceaser:
So I envisage challenges with self-mounting my panels cos they will be higher up the roof where there is currently spaces for them. So I will need to hire the services of an avid "roof climber" to mount the solar panels.

But I still need to have full control of my installations as subsequent tinkering and panel reconfiguration may come in occasionally. So I was thinking of a viable way to achieve that, bypassing the restriction of my free access to the roof.

One idea that came to mind is extending the wires of each panel (via MC4s and 6mm wires) by as much as 14ft to 20ft to terminate at a point where I have access to. At this point there will be a junction box with busbars where I can comfortably manipulate and connect those terminal panel wires

From the junction box, I envisage using a 10mm gauge wire to terminate at DCBs. Then another 10mm from the DCBs to terminate at the panel input of the SCC. Also 10mm wire the rest of the way to the battery terminals.

There is a picture illustration. Do you guys think my ideas are reasonable, especially that part about using 6mm duo core to extend the panel wires to a junction box 20 feet (around 6 meters) away?

Thanks for your anticipated advice.

I Believe it, should work. 6mm would do fine for a single panel. or reconfirm this on the dc voltage drop website link

ojeysky:


It's certainly not bad bro, after all a typical panel cable is within 4 to 8(my 280w is 4mm), your 320 is probably 6mm already so I think you are good

Same thought I had.

earthrealm:


I Believe it, should work. 6mm would do fine for a single panel. or reconfirm this on the dc voltage drop website link

Thanks.

LOCALLY MADE!!!

24V 130AH Lithium Pack!

Maximum charge current is 25A
Maximum discharge current is 50A
Maximum voltage is 29.4V
Cycle voltage is 28.5

Call/WhatsApp: +234 814 212 6416

SolnergyPower:
LOCALLY MADE!!!

24V 130AH Lithium Pack!

Maximum charge current is 25A
Maximum discharge current is 50A
Maximum voltage is 29.4V
Cycle voltage is 28.5

Call/WhatsApp: +234 814 212 6416

The Green white Green Plus Red is emotional
Abeg paint to another color, Blue or Black Is better

Dam5reey:


The Green white Green Plus Red is emotional
Abeg paint to another color, Blue or Black Is better

Lol. I agree

SolnergyPower:
LOCALLY MADE!!!

24V 130AH Lithium Pack!

Maximum charge current is 25A
Maximum discharge current is 50A
Maximum voltage is 29.4V
Cycle voltage is 28.5

Call/WhatsApp: +234 814 212 6416

How many 18650s did you use? How much?

Dam5reey:


The Green white Green Plus Red is emotional
Abeg paint to another color, Blue or Black Is better

It can also look a little more presentable. It seems like little attention was paid to how it looks.

Agreed.
I'd suggest trying out aluminium composite boards or sheets. Should be strong enough, easy to cut & rivet to necessary shape by skilled artisans, consistent finishing & lightweight.

How much be this ogbunigwe-looking one you have currently?
What safety features do you have built into it?

@ SolnergyPower

adrusa:


It can also look a little more presentable. It seems like little attention was paid to how it looks.

Original 200ah Britelite premium battery .... A brand that stands out #Quality@ItsPeak

. No wahala sir.

Dam5reey:


The Green white Green Plus Red is emotional
Abeg paint to another color, Blue or Black Is better

525 Pieces.

Neighborhood of 180k and 200k.

Thank you very much sir.

mctfopt:


How many 18650s did you use? How much?

The BMS and all the cells are fused and not just connected.

Neighborhood of between 180k and 200k.

Will improve on the artistic finishing.

Thank you very much sir.

litaninja:
Agreed.
I'd suggest trying out aluminium composite boards or sheets. Should be strong enough, easy to cut & rivet to necessary shape by skilled artisans, consistent finishing & lightweight.

How much be this ogbunigwe-looking one you have currently?
What safety features do you have built into it?

@ SolnergyPower

SolnergyPower:
The BMS and all the cells are fused and not just connected.

Neighborhood of between 180k and 200k.

Will improve on the artistic finishing.

Thank you very much sir.

Are the cells brand new?

SolnergyPower:
525 Pieces.

Neighborhood of 180k and 200k.

Thank you very much sir.

Ok cool. Got the same when I counted from the picture. As long as all the necessary protective devices are added, good one.

adrusa:


It can also look a little more presentable. It seems like little attention was paid to how it looks.

lol you are really being diplomatic that packaging is horrendous. Terrible finish and looks unsafe.

DUNKA:
lol you are really being diplomatic that packaging is horrendous. Terrible finish and looks unsafe.

Na so Oyibo man come deceive us collect our heritage. Can we get past package for once and look at if it is practical. Ask relevant questions.
Are you offering a guarantee? And seriously where would you find a 130 AH 24 V lithium battery for that price. As you patronize him he will improve on the packaging. If you fixate on the packaging he will go out of business and we will continue to fund the factories of people in China.
Bros what warranty are you offering? What are the limitations that I should expect from your battery relative to a lead acid battery.
Those are reasonable questions. And if you don't want to buy or tell him how to do it better, just observe.

ojeysky:


Not just any cloud, I needed to connect to my eWelink Account, it's same thing I would have done on my phone if I needed to configure the default sonoff basic. It's the same thing you and I are doing when we connect to our mail service through a client (e.g phone app)

That said, I probably will flash tasmota in future but that will be to address situation where my internet connection is down.

So I eventually had to do the bolded, reason was because I figured out that the API for ewilink was not accepting multiple sonoffs on an account concurrently. So my R2 sonoff is what I still maintain on ewilink api while all my R3 has been tasmotised, by the way it's now easier to flash R3 sonoff without having to open up to swap jumpers.

Nice.

ojeysky:


So I eventually had to do the bolded, reason was because I figured out that the API for ewilink was not accepting multiple sonoffs on an account concurrently. So my R2 sonoff is what I still maintain on ewilink api while all my R3 has been tasmotised, by the way it's now easier to flash R3 sonoff without having to open up to swap jumpers.

Oh nice.
Also, please what SoC / DoD would you recommend it be run to?

SolnergyPower:
The BMS and all the cells are fused and not just connected.

Neighborhood of between 180k and 200k.

Will improve on the artistic finishing.

Thank you very much sir.

Yea sure, you have a point & mostly technically savvy people on the forum here will understand and might not mind.
But remember that there will be less savvy people that might also want to get his product. Other than the technical side of it, the appearance of the product also has to project confidence & attention to detail to prospective customers. When they see that attention has been paid to how the product is put together and presented, they already can conclude that the product will be safe to use. All in all, na more customer for him pocket!
So na small small, we will get to that mass production capable level of China as well.

chris81964:


Na so Oyibo man come deceive us collect our heritage. Can we get past package for once and look at if it is practical. Ask relevant questions.
Are you offering a guarantee? And seriously where would you find a 130 AH 24 V lithium battery for that price. As you patronize him he will improve on the packaging. If you fixate on the packaging he will go out of business and we will continue to fund the factories of people in China.
Bros what warranty are you offering? What are the limitations that I should expect from your battery relative to a lead acid battery.
Those are reasonable questions. And if you don't want to buy or tell him how to do it better, just observe.

More power to your elbows, I see this with more improvement in the future ... Well done

SolnergyPower:
LOCALLY MADE!!!

24V 130AH Lithium Pack!

Maximum charge current is 25A
Maximum discharge current is 50A
Maximum voltage is 29.4V
Cycle voltage is 28.5

Call/WhatsApp: +234 814 212 6416

I support oga Chris on this, encourage the guy not go all out and insult his product when you haven't tested it. Pls what are the warranty on your products and after sale services.... @solar

Nice one on thinking of adding solar to your installation

BTW a 600W solar panels connected 2 x 300W on an MPPT would great as
1. You have used the sized panels to charge right

2. 40A is recommended at 12V max. Output is 520W anyways oversizing of 80W got nothing on you

3. Please note that for a 12V system... Expansion isn't as dynamic as higher voltage systems.

Hope this is helpful..

donblanco:
Hi the Gurus in the house,please i need your guide with the following,i use a 200ah tubular battery with a 1000w msw standalone inverter and a standalone charger while my watt load is approximately 200w max between 8am-4pm(i do have phcn light during the day so its not like i drain the battery i never go below 12.1v) but drop to about 60watts load in the evening. I would like to know what number of solar panels and in what order should i get to charge my battery fully while also running my gadgets 8am-4pm and also the range of charge controller to use keeping in mind that additions can be made in future to the panels. I will really be grateful for your inputs and also suggestions on types to get. Thanks

BTW we are having an end of year free consultantion service for those who have
* Faulty installation

* Looking to be more energy efficient

* Looking to upgrade but not getting that
professional advice

* Poor installation methodology

* Needs introduction to solar