hi everyone, luv dis thread. Onari nd Efosa God bless u both. @ Efosa pls can we have d drawing illustration for the back bodice.

@ cheries- once you've mastered the front bodice which I believe you have now by making use of the above methods, the back is cake its basically the same,proportions and all the only difference is this:

Back Bodice:

1.The width @ the center top isn't as wide as that of the front bodice cos u don't have boobs @ ur back to 'cup'. The wider the width @ the center top, the more curve you get on the bust.
*at the back you don't need to make use of the bust and underbust curve as such and your princess curve can even end up at the shoulders and you'll still be ok.
2. For those using a back zip, u'l have to leave your zip allowance, I used 1.5 for mine.
Note: IF AFTER CUTTING,your side piece is pointy where the bust is assumed to be, you can trim off the pointy paRt of the side pieces just a little, just a tiny piece so you can smoothen it out otherwise it would give you a little bulge after you join together.
@ wizb-hope it wouldn't be too late to post your request on the side zip back piece on monday?haven't had the time to work on the sew along dress owing to the fact d@ I'v bn doing some public speaking/training. It ends monday so I can post then.
You all are doing great.

wizb:

Thanks, I get it now. Pls what is the lenght of your bodice?

I typed out the measurements earlier. Also specified that I was making use of the full bodice for illustration purposes only and you are to stop at bout 2" after ur underbust where your band is to begin.

jadareese: What measurements are you working with? Post
your bust, and waist measurements.

I'm workin wt dis; bust: 38.5/38/35.5
waist:39

Based on ur measurement I got about 28" for ur fold, that can't go around your circumference. Remember that your front bodice is meant to be bigger than your back bodice cos of your bust cup.

TIP: After you've made pleats for the skirt,apply some fabric stay at the edges of your pleats(on the inside) so it stands and has this 'stiff' look especially if you're using ankara which would get a bit soft after washing. This tip can also apply to other soft cotton fabrics.

onnari :


I typed out the measurements earlier. Also specified that I was making use of the full bodice for illustration purposes only and you are to stop at bout 2" after ur underbust where your band is to begin.

Thanks Onnari.

Princess curve tip:
From the top of the fabric to the apex(the highest peak of the bust) you measure the length of your shoulder to your apex, and from your apex to your empire or underbust, you measure the length of your shoulder to your underbust (you don't have to measure the distance between your apex and underbust), and for the bodice, you just measure the length of your shoulder to your belly button.
So based on my measurements, gap between top of fabric and apex- 9", gap between apex and empire - 3",gap between empire and bodice - 6" it's all arithmetic and proportions!

pls can anyone give me website where I can order for unisex fashion catalog . thanks

www.next.co.uk also try victoria's secret.
Although the catalogues r sent for you to make orders though.

onnari :
@ cheries- once you've mastered the front bodice which I believe you have now by making use of the above methods, the back is cake its basically the same,proportions and all the only difference is this:
1.The width @ the center top isn't as wide as that of the front bodice cos u don't have boobs @ ur back to 'cup'. The wider the width @ the center top, the more curve you get on the bust.
*at the back you don't need to make use of the bust and underbust curve as such and your princess curve can even end up at the shoulders and you'll still be ok.
2. For those using a back zip, u'l have to leave your zip allowance, I used 1.5 for mine.
Note: IF AFTER CUTTING,your side piece is pointy where the bust is assumed to be, you can trim off the pointy paRt of the side pieces just a little, just a tiny piece so you can smoothen it out otherwise it would give you a little bulge after you join together.
@ wizb-hope it wouldn't be too late to post your request on the side zip back piece on monday?haven't had the time to work on the sew along dress owing to the fact d@ I'v bn doing some public speaking/training. It ends monday so I can post then.
You all are doing great.

Monday is ok with me. Thank you

Hi everi1 am yemmy n am new here am so happy to see something like ds happenin here pls I sew aliitle my problem is wit armhole always too wide or has excess fabrics dt wrinkles or bulge out pls do help me out

Onari please why did you cut the band across?

melissaray: Onari please why did you cut the band across?

For wide bands such as in the yellow dress, it's advisable to cut on the cross grain rather than straight as it sits better on the waist. You can try both methods(straight and across) and see the difference :-)
After you done cutting, remember to apply your fabric stay

yemmylastcard: Hi everi1 am yemmy n am new here am so happy to see something like ds happenin here pls I sew aliitle my problem is wit armhole always too wide or has excess fabrics dt wrinkles or bulge out pls do help me out

You're welcome! Your armholes end up being too wide cos you probably don't use the right measurement for your armhole. How do you take measurements for your armhole? Do you add a few inches to you actual armhole? And again the depth matters. Note that you don't use the same armhole measurements for a sleeveless garment and a garment with sleeves. A garment with sleeves normally requires bigger armholes.

onnari :


You're welcome! Your armholes end up being too wide cos you probably don't use the right measurement for your armhole. How do you take measurements for your armhole? Do you add a few inches to you actual armhole? And again the depth matters. Note that you don't use the same armhole measurements for a sleeveless garment and a garment with sleeves. A garment with sleeves normally requires bigger armholes.

Onnari...thank you for clarifying this. Is there a way to know the difference. I used a sleeved dress armhole to compare with my dress. So that's a no no. This s a useful tip for when I cut out a new dress.
I think I'm going to change my fabric. It has stretch and I won't be able to cut out my skirt in the same direction as the blouse.
I hope to find something in my stash.

I'm back at home so I should start sewing tomorrow afternoon.

yodiyokun:

Onnari...thank you for clarifying this. Is there a way to know the difference. I used a sleeved dress armhole to compare with my dress. So that's a no no. This s a useful tip for when I cut out a new dress.
I think I'm going to change my fabric. It has stretch and I won't be able to cut out my skirt in the same direction as the blouse.
I hope to find something in my stash.

I'm back at home so I should start sewing tomorrow afternoon.

Is your sew along dress sleeveless? What's ur armhole measurement?

onnari :


Is your sew along dress sleeveless? What's ur armhole measurement?

Yes it is sleeveless. IIRC, my armhole measurement is 18.

Where is everyone...I thought we'll have more pictures by now.

Onnari, I don't want to do princess seam at the back if I can avoid it, can I just do a dart. How high should the point of my dart be.

Thanks

Beneath ur bust wld be ok. Can't post any photos tonight,had a looooong day :-) bear wimme guys and please send in yours if you can!

yodiyokun:

Yes it is sleeveless. IIRC, my armhole measurement is 18.

Since it's sleeveless, it should be same 18" after sewing meaning 18" excluding seam allowance.
For sleeves, you could add an extra one or two inches, it all depends on what kind of cut it is actually and for a jacket you can do an extra 2 or 3 inches (especially lined jackets)

But wether ur doing a curved or straight dart, be sure to:
Begin sewing from the wide point to the tip and make the last few stitches right at the fold, leaving the threads long enough to tie a know so you DON'T backstitch @ the point to avoid bubbles. If ts a double pointed dart, pin and work from middle to end and middle to end.

Tnx I wl take to dt

@wiz B- here t'is.the way you cut the center back if you want a cut down the center back along with a side zip. Its easy though,all you need to do is taper it down the center back from about an inch above ur underbust down to the bottom at a half inch.

Again fabric width is this wide for illustration purposes.

Then stitch together

Final step: the way it looks folded after stitching

Have a good night guys.

Onnari do u this profeSsionally or its just a hobby- went to your blog. It's more of a fashion do it yourself/sewing blog?

I own a fashion line which produces ready to wear and bespoke pieces primarily for women and secondarily(frgive my choice of that word :-) kids. Asides that, styling services.interior designing and a girl empowerment team where young girls are though to equip 'emselves with mental and vocational tools to be independent young women.
The blog is just an outlet to share stuff I'm passionate about and helping others to learn to create @ no charges @ all with the basic/simplest of tools and objects.that just about sums up what I do.

onnari :
I own a fashion line which produces ready to wear and bespoke pieces primarily for women and secondarily(frgive my choice of that word :-) kids. Asides that, styling services.interior designing and a girl empowerment team where young girls are though to equip 'emselves with mental and vocational tools to be independent young women.
The blog is just an outlet to share stuff I'm passionate about and helping others to learn to create @ no charges @ all with the basic/simplest of tools and objects.that just about sums up what I do.

Very cool.......may God bless the works of your hands dear.






So sorry i have been away from this thread,been very busy, last week it was a wedding , this week its been inspection from federal Governent for recognition , Appraisal, and thus Approval of our Fashion school,so i really had no spear time at all,but now that that is out of the way i am back and ready to help.also i must add that i am really grateful that you guys appreciate our collective effort on this thread i pray that as some of us here have found financial benefits from doing what we love fashion designing so also will you guys expecially those just starting .i would like to say here that keep at it.............consistency is the key to success

EFOSA VAL:





Very cool.......may God bless the works of your hands dear.






So sorry i have been away from this thread,been very busy, last week it was a wedding , this week its been inspection from federal Governent for recognition , Appraisal, and thus Approval of our Fashion school,so i really had no spear time at all,but now that that is out of the way i am back and ready to help.also i must add that i am really grateful that you guys appreciate our collective effort on this thread i pray that as some of us here have found financial benefits from doing what we love fashion designing so also will you guys expecially those just starting .i would like to say here that keep at it.............consistency is the key to success

Congrats luv! 2013 hugs from me, this is so ur year IJN !

Congrats!

Hi Onnari, I must confess....this thread is great. I like the way you explain things! Would really like you to coach me...just that am not in the same town with you. I stay in abuja. Can you pls recommend a very good fashion outfit where I can learn? I want someone as good as you o! Pls, I want a good training from scratch. Am passionate about fashion. I have sooooo many creative ideas and designs in my head but I can't execute them cos I lack the skills. Wish I could fellow you guys here but I sincerely don't understand some terms and technicalities here. Pls I need ur recommendation ASAP. Thanks