The PCV (Positive crankcase ventilation) valve is one of those things we replace but often times can be neglected.
Since 200k miles is almost at my door step I decided to do this.

Materials:

1. Nose-clip pliers
2. 17" wrench or spanner
3. 10" wrench or spanner
4. New PCV valve (Got an aftermarket part: Beck Arnely...I regretted it)

The parts of the PCV system we're going to be concerned with are
1. PCV valve and PCV hose. These are marked by the red circle
2. Fresh air inlet hose. Marked by the red arrow

To verify that the PCV valve works,
Start the car and allow to come to operating temp
Once warmed up, pinch the PCV hose with your nose-clip pliers.
When pinched the PCV valve should make a clicking noise.

The above info is straight out of Hyanes manual. I did not do it. Rather I have read from several online sources that if the PCV valve rattles its still okay, so thats the one I did after....

Down to business.
The PCV valve is located just above the alternator for this model. To begin, release the clamp from the PCV hose and pull off the hose.

With your 10" wrench remove the intake cover (the plastic that has IVTEC written on it). It is held by 2 bolts. The essence of doing this is to get to the other end of the PCV hose. See pic below. Remove the clamp at the other end of the hose.
Carry out an inspection of this hose for cracks and also blow air through it to make sure it is not clogged.

With the PCV hose sorted, loosen the PCV valve and its washer using the 17" wrench. Once out, a good PCV valve is said to rattle when shaken. Mine still rattled...

Now this is why I said I regretted buying a Beck Arnley aftermarket PCV valve. It just simply broke on re-installation
I had to jeejeely give the old PCV valve a thorough bath with carb cleaner to blow off any dirt and then installed it back with no troubles

I used to think Beck Arnley were good. From today no more of their products!

Lastly inspect the fresh air inlet hose marked with an arrow in the first pic. If there are cracks replace.

Good one, bookmarking this 4 my ride too

Whats the sign you saw that made you change the PCV valve?

lonelydora:
Whats the sign you saw that made you change the PCV valve?

No sign actually, was inexpensive and besides my car is 190k miles so just decided to do it since its one of those maintenance tasks.

wow! I use to think Beck/Arnley is a premium aftermarket parts brand. I have used many of their brands.

BluStreak:
wow! I use to think Beck/Arnley is a premium aftermarket parts brand. I have used many of their brands.

I thought so as well. May be they still are, just not convinced from this first experience

I was able to finish off this a week ago
Saw a seller on Konga that had this Wells brand. Checked out reviews on the brand and they were favourable so I went got it...

Job completed . New Wells PCV valve in place. Its a made in Japan part.

Piyke:
Now this is why I said I regretted buying a Beck Arnley aftermarket PCV valve. It just simply broke on re-installation
I had to jeejeely give the old PCV valve a thorough bath with carb cleaner to blow off any dirt and then installed it back with no troubles

I used to think Beck Arnley were good. From today no more of their products!

I had a nasty experience with the same manufacturer.

I replaced my fuel pump with a brand new Denso.

Then decided to replace the fuel pump housing with a Beck Arnley.

So everything would be new and work like a charm or so I thought!

Now you may be aware that the fuel pump housing has come electrical connections in some vehicles for reading the fuel gauge etc.

While driving, at speeds much in excess of 90 km/hr, the car acted like the ignition wires were not receiving current, and like there was a fuel cut-off or speed limiter or like the fuel pump was dying or the fuel lines were clogged, suddenly everyone I had overtaken and dusted started overtaking me, for the fuel to flow I had to reduce my speed to less than 80km/hr.

So what could have been wrong? Brand new fuel pump and brand new fuel filter and brand new fuel pump housing?

So I sought professional help and I was given varying answers such as a dying fuel pump; a clogged fuel tank requiring dismantling and washing; clogged fuel filter or replacement of my ignition wires.

I was not too certain they were right, so I decided to take a look myself.

I personally inspected the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump housing, and discovered that the unit ( fuel pump housing) had started melting and the wires were of extremely substandard quality and had started burning and shorting, so I removed it and replaced with the OEM unit I had earlier removed and the vehicle came back from coma.

The scenario above has not repeated itself, no matter was speed I drive since then, if I ask for fuel, the fuel pump has never failed me

Aftermarket quality is sometimes a gamble. OEM quality is nearly always a given.

IdaraCHODB:


I had a nasty experience with the same manufacturer.

I replaced my fuel pump with a brand new Denso.

Then decided to replace the fuel pump housing with a Beck Arnley.

So everything would be new and work like a charm or so I thought!

Now you may be aware that the fuel pump housing has come electrical connections in some vehicles for reading the fuel gauge etc.

While driving, at speeds much in excess of 90 km/hr, the car acted like the ignition wires were not receiving current, and like there was a fuel cut-off or speed limiter or like the fuel pump was dying or the fuel lines were clogged, suddenly everyone I had overtaken and dusted started overtaking me, for the fuel to flow I had to reduce my speed to less than 80km/hr.

So what could have been wrong? Brand new fuel pump and brand new fuel filter and brand new fuel pump housing?

So I sought professional help and I was given varying answers such as a dying fuel pump; a clogged fuel tank requiring dismantling and washing; clogged fuel filter or replacement of my ignition wires.

I was not too certain they were right, so I decided to take a look myself.

I personally inspected the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump housing, and discovered that the unit ( fuel pump housing) had started melting and the wires were of extremely substandard quality and had started burning and shorting, so I removed it and replaced with the OEM unit I had earlier removed and the vehicle came back from coma.

The scenario above has not repeated itself, no matter was speed I drive since then, if I ask for fuel, the fuel pump has never failed me

Aftermarket quality is sometimes a gamble. OEM quality is nearly always a given.

By the testimony of 2, Beck Arnely does have questions to answer.
I think the key to buying good aftermarket parts is doing a thorough review. Sometime OEM is just too expensive even for Piyke to order . Its even some of these aftermarket guys that make the OEM stuff for car manufacturers, I'm usually on the lookout for such "OEM aftermaket manufacturers". When I wanted to replace my secondary O2 sensor the OEM (made by Denso) was selling for way higher on Honda sites than the price of the aftermarket Denso on Amazon. Got the aftermarket and its been working well. As a general rule, I do not buy aftermarket parts without at least, a 4-star review on Amazon. If I find no reviews, its a no-go.

IdaraCHODB:


I had a nasty experience with the same manufacturer.

I replaced my fuel pump with a brand new Denso.

Then decided to replace the fuel pump housing with a Beck Arnley.

So everything would be new and work like a charm or so I thought!

Now you may be aware that the fuel pump housing has come electrical connections in some vehicles for reading the fuel gauge etc.

While driving, at speeds much in excess of 90 km/hr, the car acted like the ignition wires were not receiving current, and like there was a fuel cut-off or speed limiter or like the fuel pump was dying or the fuel lines were clogged, suddenly everyone I had overtaken and dusted started overtaking me, for the fuel to flow I had to reduce my speed to less than 80km/hr.

So what could have been wrong? Brand new fuel pump and brand new fuel filter and brand new fuel pump housing?

So I sought professional help and I was given varying answers such as a dying fuel pump; a clogged fuel tank requiring dismantling and washing; clogged fuel filter or replacement of my ignition wires.

I was not too certain they were right, so I decided to take a look myself.

I personally inspected the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump housing, and discovered that the unit ( fuel pump housing) had started melting and the wires were of extremely substandard quality and had started burning and shorting, so I removed it and replaced with the OEM unit I had earlier removed and the vehicle came back from coma.

The scenario above has not repeated itself, no matter was speed I drive since then, if I ask for fuel, the fuel pump has never failed me

After market quality is sometimes a gamble. OEM quality is nearly always a given.

You see, thats why many Nigerians resort to tokumbo aka Belgium (foreign used). Some of these used oem parts come with some life left off them while others may come dead on arrival. They are still better than those chinco that have become a threat to life.

There are certain areas the aftermarket stuff does help but not suspension and power train parts. I remember buying a $3 with free shipping honda key shell that is fulfilling its purpose when there is the oem that is very expensive like the one on konga that goes for N7,000.

Who will ever know that this 1yr after market chinco less than N500 key shell does same thing like the N7,000 one sold on Konga.

this thread is quite informative! I have garnered so much knowledge by going through the posts. op thanks a million.