Welcome back Trac, I have long been awaiting your arrival. I asked a question about the 2007 Mercedes CLS 350. What do you have to say about this car?

Trac:

If you don't mind me asking: why do you want to replace it? Your best choice is overhauling it. The peace of mind is there and you are certain of the intensity of effectiveness.

Trac:
Such antifreeze should be nowhere near an MB.

All MB's (at least my generation and a few others before it) use hybrid based antifreeze. Total Coolant is useless and WILL damage the water pump bearings. I addition to that, it doesn't do the job well under extreme conditions. Mercedes Benz's coolant packs a lot of "punches." Expensive though! There is an alternative and approved also by Mercedes. Valvoline Zerex G05! Apparently, it is the same as the formulation for MB's cooling fluid. This is because Valvoline formulated the MB fluid. MB fitted water pumps should go-near two decades of use. This will only be achieved using the correct fluid specification. The bearings will get overstressed with the conventional antifreeze installation. Water-pump "job" is expensive and can only be done one way; the right way. Omitted precautions and cut-corners will require repeat-service(s) till it's done right.

What if Valvoline ZerexG05 and MB coolant are not available? What are the other ways out?

Welcome back to NL.

Trac:

If you don't mind me asking: why do you want to replace it? Your best choice is overhauling it. The peace of mind is there and you are certain of the intensity of effectiveness.

@Trac, nothing. I just want to have the knowledge.

ziccoit:

What if Valvoline ZerexG05 and MB coolant are not available? What are the other ways out?

Welcome back to NL.

What's up?!


Two companies exceeded MB's criterion in respect to your question. I want to believe there products are sold in Nigeria. They are African products and the "German manufacturers" approved it. So, it is pretty tough integrity-wise and would hold-up to extreme conditions. I have yellow-highlighted the approval aspect and referenced it with a red arrow.

The second attachment will in the following response. I will appreciate knowing if the fluids are readily available.

ziccoit:

@Trac, nothing. I just want to have the knowledge.

Overhauling is the best approach. It is cheaper and the dependability cannot be paralleled with a used transmission of unknown serviceability.

Re: Coolant Question

Note, the M-B Approval disclosure. This means the companies took their specifications to MB and paid the necessary fees and MB did their tests and met or exceeded the required standards. This is what to look for. The companies are not self-proclaiming, MB "accredited" it.

The same goes to the disclosed vehicles that are "manufactured-approved" on the sheet. It's a good product.

Were am @ its either the total coolant or abro and som other nameless coolant.. Asked around for the MB coolant but could not find one..

oga Sienna nd all merc benz experts in d house I hail. my C240 2001 model refused 2 select gear after d mechanic worked on d radiator y/day. after a scan 2day, d machine started 2 select with a noticeable sound. d mechanic observed a shortage in d ATF level nd suggested a change of ATF with OANDO dexron II. Is dis oil ideal 4 a C240 2001 Model?

Gee2728: Were am @ its either the total coolant or abro and som other nameless coolant.. Asked around for the MB coolant but could not find one..

Thank you my brother, some people sound like if its not this or that then its nothing! I beg to differ... Perhaps when we get to the stage where everything works and is readily available... But until then I refused to accept it as cutting corners... It is called going for the alternative. Or are we supposed to park our vehicles and order for stuff from abroad? Hell NO!
When we see the recommended stuff we use it... But if its not readily available what happens...?

[quote author=Trac]

Your's is worse than the fellow inquiring. He is correct but mixed up in reinstall intervals. The motor was built around the 229.x standard. What you have will not measure-up to "geometry-surface" demands of contact and sliding mated surfaces, as opposed to what the manufacturer stated as engineered around. For areas where Mobil 1 fluids are not readily available, certain alternatives were officially stated by Mercedes. What's puzzling is how you ended with XF (of every brand sold in the stores). That is the wrong application for any European car. Go over the sheet of the XF formulation and interpret the numbers. Afterwards compare to what is expected.

By the way, with the engine stated and the formulation you disclosed, there is almost no point using an oil filter. It is useless. Also, wear at the dead centre will be exceedingly prominent because velocity, pressure and temperature are least favourable during hydrodynamic operations at that region. That should be the least of your fears. The bearings would be what I would be concerned about. Then, -- corrosion! Alkalinity!

If you are in doubt, get professional advice. Oil documentation is there for a purpose. Stick to manufacturer's specifications.


P.S. The oil you recommended is inferior to Mobil 1 Euro Formulation and the rest (from one end of the spectrum to the other). They are not of the same tier.



Mine is not worse... At least my baby works and drives like mad. I may not know the meaning of all the grammer you wrote above but I use Mobil XHP in my C200 W202. I did not come up with dat my self ofcourse... It was "PROFESSIONAL" advice... And I still don't want to worry my head if my adviser got it right or wrong but people are different and approaches can also be different in the end we all hope to get results and learn from each other. Sometimes you should consider that apart from someone like me that lives in Abuja, someone might be driving an MB in Ohafia Abia State... And if he follows your write ups and suggestions he may not drive or own a benz cos most times they are not realistic locally. I am not and will not insult ur knowlege on the subject but know that people who can't get "PROFESSIONAL" help will still find a way to drive and maintain their benz. Even Uncle A.U Hanson takes care of his MB him self.

P.S: I was not recommending my oil to the person who was inquiring, I only told him what I use that has been serving me for a long time and asked him to choose wisely.

Kaa!

House pls I have been considering cleaning the throttle body of my 2000 W202 C230k but am not sure of what solvent to use. Would rly welcome any trusted and tested suggestions.

I use petrol...

Gee2728: House pls I have been considering cleaning the throttle body of my 2000 W202 C230k but am not sure of what solvent to use. Would rly welcome any trusted and tested suggestions.

Removed my drivers side tire this morning and I found this piece on this floor. I found were it fit above but have no idea what it does. Pls does any 1 in the house has any idea what it is.??

Gee2728: Removed my drivers side tire this morning and I found this piece on this floor. I found were it fit above but have no idea what it does. Pls does any 1 in the house has any idea what it is.??

@Gee2728, I read your comment where you mentioned how you change your AT fluid sometimes ago. Which type of ATF did you use? What year is your w202? Is it 5sp or 4sp?

ziccoit:

@Gee2728, I read your comment where you mentioned how you change your AT fluid sometimes ago. Which type of ATF did you use? What year is your w202? Is it 5sp or 4sp?

the last time it was my coolant that I changed. But if its the ATF ur asking about its mercedes brand. It comes in a container similar as posted below. My car its a 2000 model with 5sp.

Gee2728: the last time it was my coolant that I changed. But if its the ATF ur asking about its mercedes brand. It comes in a container similar as posted below. My car its a 2000 model with 5sp.

Thanks Gee. I couldn't get to read the label though. How did you source that? Locally or ordered in abroad?



Where is Mr au.hanson?

Where is Mr au.hanson?[/quote]


Yeesss!!! Wheere is Uncle A. U Hanson (the Portharcourt 1st son)?

ziccoit:

Thanks Gee. I couldn't get to read the label though. How did you source that? Locally or ordered in abroad?



Where is Mr au.hanson?

I stay in kaduna,. That mercedes branded oil is readily available evry were in ore opkata in the main town. The pics I sent u is for the break fluid but all there oil comes in that container. Mr hanson is hybernating for the main time.

Busy defending Amaechi

aikerism: Where is Mr au.hanson?


Yeesss!!! Wheere is Uncle A. U Hanson (the Portharcourt 1st son)?

aikerism: Mine is not worse... At least my baby works and drives like mad. I may not know the meaning of all the grammer you wrote above but I use Mobil XHP in my C200 W202. I did not come up with dat my self ofcourse... It was "PROFESSIONAL" advice... And I still don't want to worry my head if my adviser got it right or wrong but people are different and approaches can also be different in the end we all hope to get results and learn from each other. Sometimes you should consider that apart from someone like me that lives in Abuja, someone might be driving an MB in Ohafia Abia State... And if he follows your write ups and suggestions he may not drive or own a benz cos most times they are not realistic locally. I am not and will not insult ur knowlege on the subject but know that people who can't get "PROFESSIONAL" help will still find a way to drive and maintain their benz. Even Uncle A.U Hanson takes care of his MB him self.

P.S: I was not recommending my oil to the person who was inquiring, I only told him what I use that has been serving me for a long time and asked him to choose wisely.

Kaa!

Yours is worse.

In addition, I did not take offense. Your response was thoroughly fair; in other words, no insults were implied.

I understand your emotional view about adhering to specifications. That's just how far it goes.

Why don't you purchase an Alfa-Romeo (for instance) and maintain it as you please; wide from system specifications? Why [again]? The reason [being so] is socio-economical factors. Mercs are not simple "systems" to maintain. You own one because of the high level of precision standard it upholds. If parts and other resources needed for maintenance would be a problem, such a vehicle is not a best-buy for that given point in time and relative geographical region.

Get a third opinion about the oil. Whoever gave you such professional advice owes you a field of explanation. If that can't be given to you on-the-fly, then you've been (what popular culture denotes as tag) pwned (owned).

If will be unfair if I do not break-down what I afore-discussed. I (very well) understand different backgrounds. The oil is partially lubricating the engine. The partial duration to which the engine is lubricated is odd and unpractical. Secondly, it fails to meet the minimum requirement for Euro's materials, rolling contacts (bearing) and rails contact under all conditions. Thirdly, you are creating unfactored drag and unnecessary inertia in pumpability, thus resorting to a latter of unfactored oil pressure that is excessive. Fourthly, you've upgraded your oil filter to a cup. It is pure aesthetic. It serves no function at the time the engine needs it most. The oil - being a weak grade of oil - will alkalise; because the conditions are inappropriate.

Engine and transmission was over-engineered for longevity; not to be misused or abused. Factory specification stated 0w-40 or 10w-40. How in the world did you conclude 20w-50? For a small engine, low turbulent-flow compression?! Try understanding with me here. Ford truck that has capability of hauling 10,000 - 15,000 pounds of payload does not use the specification you are installing. The 40-weight oil is not 50-weight oil. Matter of fact, "personalities" are different. One of the parameter is "kinematic viscosity." This is also measured in two stages in oil operation. Has it ever puzzled you why Nigerians replace engines? What's been stated applies to all vehicles.

This is the Mercedes thread; with intent to discuss Mercedes, especially technical related issues. The advice given to you was wrong. Abuja or Germany means nothing as far as precepts go. The same sun and moon seen in Germany is seen in Abuja. Fluid-Mechanics will not change because you are African and the designer were German. If the professional cannot explain to you within the precepts of fluid-mechanics why such wide deviation from factory specs is needed, such a person should not be advising you on cars. Save your money and follow specifications. Don't bargain for a catastrophic engine failure. The money spent and the downtime is no pardon against a [possible] clumsy engine transplant.

The homework is left to you. Use the right grade and note how "light" the car feels to the throttle. If its unimportant, I won't be bothering you. You risk damaging the engine. Rather than be on the defense, get another opinion. You shouldn't need any because the owner's manual plus the dip-stick has disclosed it.


Pardon the long text. I hope I have conveyed (at least something).

I rest my case.

smartchoice: I use petrol...

Do not use gasoline. The coatings on the plates as well as other areas of contact cannot bear harsh solutions. The last time I visited Nigeria, State-wide, cars were breaking down because Nigeria [decided] for the first time to "endow" the gasoline with 25% ethanol. The throttle body is also very expensive; $4,000 in range (to be precise).

Gee2728: House pls I have been considering cleaning the throttle body of my 2000 W202 C230k but am not sure of what solvent to use. Would rly welcome any trusted and tested suggestions.

I am sure dedicated products are sold for this.

@Trac, if I may ask is using mobil 1 fully synthetic on a W202 engine an over-kill. I do so cos I want to get the issue of regular service out of the way and cos I travel a lot.

@Trac, if I may ask is using mobil 1 fully synthetic on a W202 kompressor engine an over-kill. I do so cos I want to get the issue of regular service out of the way and cos I travel a lot.

[quote author=Trac]


"" Factory specification stated 0w-40 or 10w-40. How in the world did you conclude 20w-50? For a small engine, low turbulent-flow compression?!""



Trac,
Thank you for the response... The part above made me wonder if I am actually doing more harm to my engine than I already know... So I took your advice to do a lil soul searching and research, I must confess that what you say is true...



1st off, I have a lot of documentation that came with the car but because they are all written in German, I don't always look at them but I did today and saw a lot...
I noticed a booklet that is used to record the different times the car was brought in for servicing, the date, the oil used and the odometer reading...

The pages that covers 30,867 km in 1997 to 109,029 km in 2003 are still intact... And truly they were using a minimum of 0W-40 and maximum of 5W-40

This are the pages that show times when 0W-40 oil was used

This are the pages that show times when 5W-40 oil was used

So I went back to my trunk to inspect the container of the Mobil XHP I used last month and I saw that its truly 20W-50...

Hmmmmmm, buh all seemed to be in order... OMG... My Baby!!! I have been giving her food for thundra and Caterpillar...

LMAO!!! You are very funny you better apologize for starving your baby the right food.

aikerism: So I went back to my trunk to inspect the container of the Mobil XHP I used last month and I saw that its truly 20W-50...

Hmmmmmm, buh all seemed to be in other... OMG... My Baby!!! I have been giving her food for thundra and Caterpillar...

@ aikerism, this ur interior na 1 in town.
I guess am on point with mobil 1 then.

aikerism: So I went back to my trunk to inspect the container of the Mobil XHP I used last month and I saw that its truly 20W-50...

Hmmmmmm, buh all seemed to be in other... OMG... My Baby!!! I have been giving her food for thundra and Caterpillar...

lol...so sorry

Eyop: LMAO!!! You are very funny you better apologize for starving your baby the right food.

Damn right... I have been apologizing all day... I have promised her a trip to the workshop soon so we can drain every drop of that heavy duty oil in her system and replace it with the right stuff...

Gee2728: @ aikerism, this ur interior na 1 in town.
I guess am on point with mobil 1 then.

Thanks Uncle Gee, the interior is why I "gbadun" the ride Wella... Yes I guess you are on point... I will continue with my Oil 101 lectures and by the end of the semester (though ASSU is on strike) I will find the best oil for me...

Gee2728: @Trac, if I may ask is using mobil 1 fully synthetic on a W202 engine an over-kill. I do so cos I want to get the issue of regular service out of the way and cos I travel a lot.

It is not an over-kill. It is cheapest in this way. The oil is engineered for extended oil-drain interval. Due to congestion in Nigeria (Lagos to be precise) and the disturbing intensity of traffic, I'll recommend using the oil for 12 months - 12,000 miles with the Bosch filter. In the case where the oil happens to be dirty, the reinstall session should be used for a short interval. In other words, if you go for a drain and the oil turns out dirty or blackened, the next M1 installation should be run for a short period; maybe 6 months. The following can be 12 months. Use proper discernment.

aikerism: Trac,
Thank you for the response... The part above made me wonder if I am actually doing more harm to my engine than I already know... So I took your advice to do a lil soul searching and research, I must confess that what you say is true...

1st off, I have a lot of documentation that came with the car but because they are all written in German, I don't always look at them but I did today and saw a lot...
I noticed a booklet that is used to record the different times the car was brought in for servicing, the date, the oil used and the odometer reading...

The pages that covers 30,867 km in 1997 to 109,029 km in 2003 are still intact... And truly they were using a minimum of 0W-40 and maximum of 5W-40 undecided

So, you have deeper convictions and you made me stress what shouldn't have been necessary. Not fair! Plus, your "brilliant" recommendation about XHP It's all good.

The booklet is called "Service History Log" book. The vehicle was services by the previous owner at a German Authorised Mercedes Benz dealership. SAE 0w-40 Mobil 1 European Formulation was the specification used; which is what the factory operational manual explicitly states. This was followed religiously according to what you have presented.

Specification 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 are one standard. The Xw is required during startup and cancels out. It is cold start specification and flow characteristic. The 40 weight is what matters. The 20w-50 is just pitiful and unacceptable. It doesn't flow well as you start, you get very limited protection as the temperature reaches certain certain aspects pf the "spectra" and as the oil reaches 100degC, oil is too thick and protection is marginalised. Certain mating elements are inadequately lubricated due to tight precisions. You will also have drag relative to mechanical components because of the weight. What your greatest risk was damaging your bearings at cold-start.

Keep in mind, aerospace standards were factored into the design and production of the engines of this generation. That is the highest precision you can ever get. The demand to get everything correct should be comprehensive. At least, for the engine and transmission.

aikerism: So I went back to my trunk to inspect the container of the Mobil XHP I used last month and I saw that its truly 20W-50...

Hmmmmmm, buh all seemed to be in order... OMG... My Baby!!! I have been giving her food for thundra and Caterpillar...

You wonder why there are so many engine failures or engine swaps in Nigeria (all cars). I doubt if you truly know how the car truly runs. When the rights specs are installed, then you can conclude if it ran right or not. You shouldn't be depressing (noticeably travel) the throttle to maintain constant velocity. It should be feathered (very mild mass/pressure). Depress to accelerate, feather to maintain velocity. Overall, car should not feel heavy to your foot (even though it is heavy).

aikerism:
Thanks Uncle Gee, the interior is why I "gbadun" the ride Wella... Yes I guess you are on point... I will continue with my Oil 101 lectures and by the end of the semester (though ASSU is on strike) I will find the best oil for me...

The best oil is Mobil 1 for your vehicle. Somewhere in this thread, I detailed the engine lubrication.

Best: