The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread - Car Talk (5) - Nairaland
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Comparing Some Honda, Toyota, Nissan And Volkswagen Cars / Is The Audi A6 A Good Car To Buy? / Sienas Help And Advice To Eternal05 On The Audi A6 2001 Model. (2) (3) (4)
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| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Ladipodeal: 2:56pm On Dec 07, 2011 |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by 2dmax(m): 3:16pm On Dec 07, 2011 |
Siena:Sir, does that includes my quests? How are you doing today? |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 3:20pm On Dec 07, 2011 |
Ladipodeal: Response posted bro. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 3:29pm On Dec 07, 2011 |
2dmax: I'll look into your requests bro. I'm good, just extremely busy today. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by SMOOOTH(m): 3:46pm On Dec 07, 2011 |
1) VW 2) TOUAREG 3) 3.2L V6 4) Auto ( 6 speed tiptronic) 5) 2003 6) US 7) 4WD Check engine light permanetly illuminated Guzzles fuel (15mpg highway,9mpg city) Harsh downshift from 5 to 4 once in a while (maybe 2wice in 2 weeks) fan keeps runnning after shutdown especially on a sunny afternoon ac blows cold but not from the vents scanned the engine and it said faulty 02s circuit, 2 of 1 (dunno what dat means) Waiting on u , Prof Sienna!!!!  |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 4:43pm On Dec 07, 2011 |
SMOOOTH: VW Touareg, 3,2 V6 24V, 250 bhp. 1) CEL permanently illuminated. Most common cause, given the fuel consumption: a) Faulty oxygen sensor, downstream of catalysts (after both catalysts, visible from underneath). These measure the exhaust gases AFTER the catalysts, and are purely for OBD-II diagnostics. They will increase fuel consumption if faulty, but will not have an obvious effect on engine performance. Easy to replace from underneath. Your engine has 4 oxygen sensors, 2 before the catalysts, and 2 after. Replace both after the catalysts. 2) Harsh downshifts. a) I would get the system scanned, clear any codes (but write them down first). The Touareg tiptronic is manufactured by Aisin. VW will say it's filled for life, but that is not entirely true. Your ATF fluid will need replacement, if you've got over 60,000 miles on the odometer. Any contaminant will clog up the control valves in the valve body, and cause occasional pressure loss, with resultant erratic shifts. Check for fluid leaks, common areas are output shaft and torque converter seals. The output shaft seals are easy to check for leaks, the torque converter isn't. TC leaks will be evident from between the engine and transmission. 3) Fan runs on. The fan is designed to run on after shutdown, at a different speed to the one with the engine running. This will occur if the coolant temperature exceeds 90 degrees with the engine shut down. The purpose is to aid hot starting (fuel in the rail will boil, and bubbles will cause hard starting). As long as it eventually shuts down, it's not an issue. If it remains on, till your battery dies, then it's an issue. Clearly it occurs on a hot day. Please confirm it switches off after a while. 4) Aircon blows cold, but not from the vents. The vents, including the ones in the foot wells and screen demist are operated by small servo motors. Most common causes of failure: a) Faulty climate control panel. The digital panel (I assume yours has full automatic control) doubles as the control unit. It is not uncommon for the drivers that control the dash vent servo motors to burn out. When this occurs, the vents will fail in either the open or shut position, depending on their position when the drivers failed. The cold air will still be felt in the cabin, but it won't have any defined source. b) Faulty servo motors. These are very unlikely to fail all at the same time, but it's still a possibility. The climate control can be scanned independently of the engine. It will come under Comfort Modules. Depending on what you're scanning with, you will be able to activate every individual component for test purposes - servo motors, blower fan, control panel display, pressure switch, condenser fan. This will narrow down the fault area. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by luckyseven: 11:32pm On Dec 07, 2011 |
@Siena,Good day,Here it is, 01) Audi. 02) A 4. 03) 2.8 V6. 04) Automatic. 05) 1995. 06)Euro. 07)Model No.BD20MA. Issue: 03)Car does not start at-all(engine cranks,but doesn't fire. The car is 1995 model and i used it while i was in nigeria about two years ago and it was packed and not used,so i was surprised that it cranks but will not start,the mechanics i called,first one say its the sensor which was taken out and asked for 30000 to buy a new one ,second said there was a small device that works in conjuction with sensor that was bad and not the sensor,we bought it and fixed,still just cranking and it will not start,i finally give up and return to my base,i also notice that while the key is in the lock the dashboard needle showing how much fuel inside will not move. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 12:27am On Dec 08, 2011 |
luckyseven: For starters, what "sensor" did your mechanic replace? There are several sensors in the Audi 2,8 V6 12V, and very few that will cause a non-start situation. Most likely causes of non-start are: a) Faulty crank position sensor (CPS). If this is dead, the ECU will not detect the engine is rotating, and will disable the fuel pump, injectors and ignition. So no spark, no fuel. b) Faulty ignition switch. If this is broken, or the ignition switch has burnt contacts, this may account for the fuel gauge not powering up. Please switch on the ignition, and make sure the warning lights on the dash illuminate. Also, make sure the indicators, wipers, electric windows and the cabin fan work, with the ignition switched on. I would assume your battery has juice in it, and isn't flat. c) Faulty fuel pump relay. This will cut off the fuel pump, BUT not spark / ignition. d) Immobiliser fault. If this activates, the engine will fire briefly (for about a second) before dying. There is a coil round the ignition lock, the connector often works lose, leading to non-start. The chip within the ignition key can also get damaged by water. Your '95 model will have the non-retractable ignition key, which is a sealed unit, so water ingress is unlikely. With the ignition switched on, the yellow "key" symbol on the dash should flash briefly, then go off. If it remains flashing, then the immobiliser is active, and engine won't start. An OBD scan should be your next port of call, after carrying out the simple checks I've listed here. Please post your findings, the manual checks as well as your scan results, we'll take things from there. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by SMOOOTH(m): 8:13am On Dec 08, 2011 |
Siena, i really think u need to start thinking about setting up an autoshop in nigeria. The Uk has had a fair share of enjoyment from ur expertise! Its about time Nigeria starts benefitting from one of their own  Thanks for the analysis about my 3.2l v6 touareg.Its actually in line with what ive been suspecting. i was able to procure one of the 'post cat.conv.sensors' since the diagnostic code was thrown up on only one bank. but since u are recommending that i change the two post cat sensors, can u help me procure one more? Also, i would like you to give me a comprehensive 'transmission oil change' procedure. Since you are not based in nigeria, im thinking of carrying out a DIY assisted by a local mechanic .Could you also let me know how much it will cost to procure the AISIN recommended tranny oil? Any other useful information will be highly appreciated. All hail the King of nairaland Auto repairs!! Olorun Siena 1 |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by SMOOOTH(m): 8:33am On Dec 08, 2011 |
Yea , the fan shuts off after a while , so i guess its normal. thanks |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by luckyseven: 12:03pm On Dec 08, 2011 |
thx for your advice on my issue,but again i like to indicate that the sensor is close to the engine and it has two dongles that goes on top of the engine ,and i forgot to mention that the battery was bad and it was taken out and not replaced for a long time.Yeah i quite agree with the ignition key analysis,cause immediately i took it from the port i was unable to remove the key from the ignition and we have to force it out,but it continues to work till i left it parked. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by splendore(m): 1:58pm On Dec 08, 2011 |
Audi A4 B5 auto, 1,781cc I4 2 x DOHC 20V, 125 bhp. Please confirm the engine rpm drops when aircon is switched on at idle. Does this affect the way the car drives? Because the aircon compressor cuts out at WOT (wide-open throttle) which is normal. Did this issue of below par performance with the aircon on start after the compressor was replaced? If yes, have the compressor belt removed, and test performance, then post your findings here. Did your constant gas leak occur with the old compressor? You aircon guys should be able to detect the leak. When the system is charged with R134-A, PAG oil is added, with a yellow dye that shows up under UV (ultra violet) light. Even with the Unclad eye, a leak will leave a greeny-yellow residue. Most common sources of leaks: a) Unions / pipe joins to condenser, compressor, expansion valve (in scuttle / battery area). b) Condenser core. c) High/low pressure valves. d) Compressor casing. e) Evaporator (behind dash) but very rare. The aluminium pipes run along the inner wing (passenger side) into the scuttle (battery) area. The two pipes run under the brake servo and the battery tray. The joins are screwed unions, and if water sits in the scuttle area, due to blocked drains, they can oxidise, and leak. The evaporator is the most likely culprit, or the receiver drier. The receiver drier is an integral part of the condenser, and can't be renewed separate assembly. Your ABS and brake pad warning, Brake pad warning, likely causes: a) Damaged pad wear sensor connectors / wires. b) New pads fitted don't have pad wear sensors. It's common for the pad wear warning connectors to get damaged. These are often damaged by the inner rim rubbing against them, cutting through. They are simple, just two wires to the pads wear indicators, forming a loop. Once this loop is broken (as in when the pads wear low enough to break the loop) the light illuminates. If the wires are damaged, repair them, very easy. Or if the new pads don't have wear indicators, simply bridge the wires coming from the car (wheel arch) to replicate new pads. ABS warnings are normally triggered by: a) Damaged sensors. b) broken coaxial leads. c) Rusty rotors on rear discs. d) Rusty / damaged teeth on front outer CV joints. e) Faulty combined ABS hydraulic modulator and control unit (in engine bay, driver's side front). A scan will identify which wheel is not being read by ECU. It won't always specify if it's a sensor fault, but it will at least let you know which wheel is affected. Thanks a lot Siena, your professional advice/comments to these Audi/VAG issues,they are priceless . I have been following this thread religiously. Your reply to my post was really great, i really appreciate it. I have already have taken care of the AC issue. I noticed that there is no significant change in the RPM when the aircon is switched on at idle. The leak has been detected and fixed, so i intend to observe it for some time. I will post the observations as they appear. But there is no way to know if the issue was there with the former compressor since it was damaged when i bought the car. Could you advice the type of compressor suitable for this type of car in case i need to buy a replacement. The lights on the dash will be taken care of as soon as i am less busy. Cheers |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by iKoksi(m): 11:57am On Dec 09, 2011 |
Hello Guys, just found this very interesting: Audi B5A4 Transmission Multifunction Switch Replacement. God bless whoever put that up, will do this myself once's I receive my sensor. http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=2641952 1 Like |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 12:26pm On Dec 09, 2011 |
^^^ That's brilliant, Ikoksi. Transmission Range Sensor, AKA Multifunction Sensor isn't really difficult to replace on Audi A4 B5 1,8 20V I4, a bit more involved on V6 models, due to close proximity of catalyst. Audi A4 B5 1,8 doesn't have a catalyst on the left of the transmission, where the switch is.  |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by 2dmax(m): 1:31pm On Dec 09, 2011 |
@ siena, sir i'm still waiting. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by luckyseven: 2:58pm On Dec 09, 2011 |
@siena,what is the right diagnostic cable to buy and where to get original download for car diagnostic tool,i downloaded a couple of them on the internet and i'm not sure if it will work for my Audi A4 1995 model,thx. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 4:18pm On Dec 09, 2011 |
luckyseven: For the VAGCOM download, go here: http://www.ross-tech.com/ And for the OBD lead, you can buy off eBay. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 4:24pm On Dec 09, 2011 |
2dmax: Sorry bro, I can't remember which request you made. Could you post me a link? Or was it via email? |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 3:34pm On Dec 10, 2011 |
Following Ikoksi's post with regards to issues with his '03 Audi A4 B6 3,0 V6 quattro: https://www.nairaland.com/nigeria/topic-810561.0.html (post #5) Steps are now being taken to resolve things, and get her running sweet once more. I'm DHL Expressing some parts to Abuja. I will provide all the remote support I can from my end, and hopefully Ikoksi won't require the help of a mechanic. Parts ordered are: 01) Transmission Range Sensor AKA Multi Function Switch.  02) MAF (Mass Air-Flow Meter).  03) Coil Pack.  04) Fuel filler cap.  05) Serpentine belt.  |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 3:37pm On Dec 10, 2011 |
And come Monday, all the items will be sent to Ikoksi by DHL Express. I'll keep updates coming, and obviously for security reasons, will update Ikoksi tracking details via email. All parts ready to ship via DHL Express:  |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by luckyseven: 4:51pm On Dec 11, 2011 |
@siena,thx i really appreciate your prompt response ,i will keep up by email to know what things to buy as concerning parts to repair my audi A4. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by 8ightball: 6:06am On Dec 12, 2011 |
Hi, I would like to know how fuel thirsty Audi's are? I have an Audi A6 2001 model which I just got and I feel it guzzles fuel like a drunk. Is it just what I hear from Japanese car users or are Audi's really thirsty? Thanks |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 10:22am On Dec 12, 2011 |
8ightball: What engine does your Audi have? And as for consumption, I have no idea what car you owned before the A6. If you previously owned a Honda Accord or Toyota Camry 2,2 I4, then moved on to an Audi A6 3,0 V6 then they are not comparable. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by uchenwoks: 10:56am On Dec 12, 2011 |
Siena you are just awesome men! After appraising your prognosis i took the ride to an AC man for a thorough check. we removed the bumber and discovered that the high pressure switch is bad. I changed this and the AC is working like mad. thanks man |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 1:17pm On Dec 12, 2011 |
uchenwoks: No worries bro, happy to be of assistance and glad your aircon is active once more. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by meexteriox(m): 1:22pm On Dec 12, 2011 |
Hi Siena, My VW Jetta 2002 model suddenly lost power on the highway sometime back. The EPC light and check engine came on immediately. Computer diagnosis stated that the ECU (BRAINBOX) was bad. After buying another ECU, i'm now been told to replace the entire dashboard because the new ECU could not be programmed to work with the old dashboard. Right now, i'm so frustrated that i'm on the verge of selling it off as scrap because no one could even fathorm the real solution to this Jetta. Please help bro, |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 6:04pm On Dec 12, 2011 |
meexteriox: Please don't sell your car as scrap! I need a bit more detail - engine size. ECU faults are rare. Power loss in motion, EPC (Electronic Performance Control) light came on, in conjunction with the CEL (Check Engine Light). Most common causes: a) Faulty crank position / engine rpm sender. b) Faulty camshaft position sender. c) ECU power supply interrupted. 1) The crank sender gives information to the ECU upon start-up. It also tells the ECU the crankshaft angle (top-dead centre). This information is used for fuel injection phasing. Once the engine is running, the crank sender only has to do correction. If it fails whilst the engine is running, the EPC light will come on, the ECU map switches to a back-up system (limp-home mode) and of course, the engine will run at reduced power. Very rarely will it cause a stall, though if you turn the engine off, it won't restart. Or if it does (partial failure) the check engine light will illuminate, together with the EPC warning. 2) A faulty camshaft position sender will cause similar issues. Absolute failure will now allow restart of the engine. It will limit engine speed to approximately 4,000 rpm, as correction to injection rate and spark angle will not take place at higher rpm. 3) The ECU has two 12V supplies. A permanent one (terminal 30) and a switched one (terminal 15). The switched one only gives 12V with the ignition on, and is fused. If this is missing, the car will not run. Another sure ECU killer is water. The VW Bora / Jetta ECU lives in the scuttle area, with the wiper motor. If the water drains either side of the scuttle area are blocked, it will fill with rain / car wash water, to the level of the multi-plug, which is NOT waterproof. I'll need more detail: 01) Engine size. 02) Fault code that was read during OBD scan. 03) Part number of both ECU's - original and replacement. We'll proceed from there. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by blackwhale: 7:33pm On Dec 12, 2011 |
Good day Siena, it seems you missed my post last week. Any help from your end? |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by meexteriox(m): 8:18pm On Dec 12, 2011 |
I appreciate your response Siena. I would work on the details you require immediately and would get back to you ASAP. Thanks |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by 8ightball: 9:22pm On Dec 12, 2011 |
Hi, Mr Siena My Audi is a A6 2001 model, 2.8 engine. She is my first car, but from what I hear from my japanese car owning colleagues, the fuel I use up in 3 days is what they use in a week. is this normal? |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 9:55pm On Dec 12, 2011 |
blackwhale: For starters, whenever fault codes such as you've listed come up on a scan, it's not a case of erasing them. The causes need to be established. If you really decide to clear them, then you should write down each code and the definition of each, as shown by your diagnostic tool. a) b) c) Please get the transmission scanned, I need to see what codes come up. As all PRND432 is illuminated in red, you won't be able to use the Tiptronic mode to select your gears manually. Besides the "thump" on taking up drive, are there any sort of metallic grinding noise? Do you have to rev more than normal before any gear engages from standstill? I can almost guarantee your reverse isn't great, and your transmission is stuck in one gear - 4th. The car will be sluggish at low speeds. I have my suspicions as to what's wrong, but I'll wait for your codes. d) Airbag info pops up on screen, despite non-deployed airbags, and after erasing fault codes. Possible causes: 1) Poor connection under front seats for side airbags in seats. Normally occurs when plug under seats become detached when seats are moved back and forth. Check connections, and use cable ties to hold both halves together if retaining clips are weak / broken. 2) Faulty clock-spring. This is the rotary device between the steering wheel and the steering column. This has the contacts for the steering wheel airbag and the horn. If your steering wheel has Tiptronic controls, they will also pass through the clock spring. This is another area to check. If continuity is intermittent as you turn the wheel, it will throw up airbag warnings. 3) Faulty airbag control unit. Very unlikely, but not impossible. Control units are usually damaged by water ingress, but the location of the airbag control unit is inside the car, behind the centre console, so it's unlikely it got wet. 4) Crash sensors. These are located on the front chassis rails, under and behind the headlamps. The connectors need to be checked. They can be dislodged, or have corroded contacts due to water (driving through floods). If they are rusty, you'll need to have them replaced (either the connectors, the sensors or both). There is one on each side, for driver and passenger airbags. So a scan, and codes are essential. Please post the results when you get this done. e) Feels like only one side (left) brake pads are engaging. Common causes: 1) Seized brake caliper. If the right-hand front caliper is seized, if you use the brakes in an emergency, the left-hand side will act first. There will be a distinct feeling the car pulls to the left as a result. If this is the case, the brake pads will tell a story. The defective side will have the pads worn a lot less than the working side. 2) Faulty brake master cylinder. You car has dual-circuits, in a diagnol sequence. So front-left on the same circuit as rear right and vice-versa. It is designed this way som if one circuit fails, the car can still be brought to a stop in as much a straight line as possible. The fact your brake pedal sometimes goes very low points a faulty master cylinder too. f) See notes above for (e). g) Engine check light comes on. Please scan, and post codes. Too many variables to hazard a guess. h) Right rear door does not work with central locking. Cause: 1) Faulty door latch. The B5 / B6 VW Passat incorporates small servo motors in all the door latch assemblies, these drive plastic worm gears that slide the lock mechanism back and forth. If these break (which they often do) the motors turn freely, but won't lock or unlock the affected door. They can fail in the locked or unlocked position. If it fails in the locked position, it's a bear of a job to sort out. The door card has to be removed to gain access, and the screws are not accessible with the door shut. I've done several, and it still takes me at least 40 minutes to get the door open, without damage, i) Right door mirror does not fold with the switch. Possible causes: 1) Damaged wiring between door and car body. The wiring goes through a big corrugated grommet, that links the door electrics to the car itself. Over time, the wires can fracture, due to the flexing motion of opening and closing the door. You'll need to pull back the grommet, and check the wires for breaks. 2) Faulty mirror retractor motor. If the mirror has been struck by a car, the plastic gears that move the mirror hinge can break. Try listening for any sound from the motor, when you operate the switch. 3) Faulty switch. Despite it being just one switch for both mirrors, there are separate contacts. One could be burnt out. If possible, obtain a good used switch and try it. j) Fuse for the AC, horn and all the steering controls keeps burning out, with or without the AC on. When you say steering controls, do you mean the indicators, wipers, main beam, cruise control switches? Please clarify in your response. k) Dash display / DIS (Driver Information System) contrast keeps changing, or dying altogether. Cause: 1) Faulty LCD display. This is a common fault. The display goes dim, worse on a hot day, or in bright sunlight. Sometimes when bright, some pixels are dead. The LCD is driven by a ribbon cable, with a chip in it. Over time, with age, heat etc, the cable breaks down. The only solution is a new LCD with ribbon and embedded chip. It's a delicate, solder job that requires patience and a steady hand. Not sure how that works in Nigeria. I replace them here, takes up to an hour. The easiest option is a good used cluster. This will however require recoding to your immobiliser, as the microprocessor is built into the dash. Some North American cars didn't have immobiliser, we'll check yours later. l) Water leaking into car. Cause: 1) Blocked drain holes in scuttle (wiper / battery) area. When these drains get blocked, the scuttle will fill up with rain water. Your battery will be submerged in water, and so will your ECU! Your ECU is in a plastic box, in the scuttle area, on the driver's side. That may explain your erratic faults. It will also overflowinto the car, and soak the foot wells. This may also explain your transmission faults. The TCU (Transmission Control Unit) lives under the carpet. On a RHD car, it's under the passenger's side carpet. On a LHD, it could be either side. Water ingress will destroy the TCU, and give all manner of unpleasant faults. On the bright side, the TCU is an easy fix, compared to replacing (or rebuilding the ZF transmission). A replacement is your only option. The scuttle drains need to be opened up. One per side. One is under the brake servo, not easy to reach, but not too bad. There is a rubber tube, that gets blocked with dead leaves. Poke it free with a stiff piece of wire / cable. Most people actually remove the rubber tube, to prevent future blockages. The other drain is under the battery tray. You'll need to remove the battery, as well as the battery to access the drain tube underneath. The tray is held by three 13mm bolts. |
| Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Nobody: 10:21pm On Dec 12, 2011 |
8ightball: You can't work out fuel consumption by the method you've posted. You may well cover different distances in a week, from your colleagues. And your cars may have different engine capacities. The best way to work out your fuel consumption, is fill your tank to the brim (till the automatic cut-off activates). Then zero your trip meter, and simply see how many kilometers you get before your fuel gauge gets into the reserve. You don't say if your car is an auto or manual, or if it's quattro. Assuming it's quattro, the combined fuel consumption is 26 mpg, fuel tank capacity is 70 litres. |
) changed, brake switch etc. Need to mention here that in attempts to fix this, gear/engine sitting has been worked on, gear brain box opened and other things the mechanic may not have the liver to tell me 'cos I raised hell of the repeated promises and same issue re-occurrences.(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) ... (58) (Reply)
What Causes A Car To Start Consuming Fuel Excessively / Help.my Honda Crv Drive "d" Indicator Light Blinks (Now solved) / BMW Owners' Forum
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