₦airaland Forum

Please what was the solution to this P0340

GAZZUZZ:
remote diagnosis not advisable in this case

Confused. What should be done? Scanner can't diagnose it?

GAZZUZZ:

Warped head, or cracked head .

It is possible the head was not properly skimmed

Hello Gazzuzz, thanks for the help so far. When I scanned the car again today, it shows code P0303 as pending fault.

Now my mechanic is advising I change the cylinder at the back. What do you suggest please?

Change both cylinders or the one at the back only?

Thank God you learnt some things.

But biggest lesson for you both- Get a Comprehensive Insurance

You don't need all the shoutings at all.

GAZZUZZ:

Warped head, or cracked head .

It is possible the head was not properly skimmed

Thanks. Will work on this. Do have a lovely week.

GAZZUZZ:
It will not be the first time

This is the 2nd time in 4 weeks the head gaskets were changed.

I am curious if the mechanic did not fix it very well, or there's something spoiling the head gaskets after fixing. Kindly advise.

GAZZUZZ:
3mz engine or 2Gr.


If you have excessive bubbles the head gasket is damaged

The engine is 3MZ-FE.

Just changed the head gasket. What could damage it again? Or was it not properly done?

GAZZUZZ:
Any hesitation or dragging?

Observed this bubbling on the radiator

GAZZUZZ:
Any hesitation or dragging?

None at all. Drives well

GAZZUZZ:
Do you buy a brand new radiator?

Yes. New Radiator was bought alongside Tokunbo fan

Good day Gazzuzz,

I have a 2006 Sienna running fine without a thermostat. But the driver allowed the gasket to blow due to overheating.

My Mechanic re-surfaced the Cylinder and put a new gasket. The car is still overheating while in traffic, but runs well when driving on highway.

While driving, the check engine light started blinking. When scanned, P0301, P0303 and P0057 were the codes showing. After replacing oil seal and Injector Nozzle of cylinder 1 and 3, codes P0301 and P0303 disappeared. Still, the car is still overheating.

The only code showing now is P0057

Things done: Changed Fan, Changed radiator, replaced most hoses, Replaced plugs & 1 Nozzle, Serviced other Nozzles.

Please what can be the cause of the overheating in traffic after all these repairs.

Thanks.

viperVIP:
SOMEBODY HELP!!!

Is there anyone here who has used or install Eastman Tubular Batteries?
I bought one 2 weeks ago and this is my experience.

After being fully charged, battery drains from 12.9v to 12.2 in just 10 minutes with less than 200watts load on it.
Then from 12.2, it now drains normally till 11.0 which might last for 5+ hours with same load before inverter will alarm for low battery but I always switch it off when it's 11.6v

After lodging the complain to the seller, i was requested to bring the battery to their service centre, I did and It was delayed for 7 days leaving me stranded 'cos i sold the previous battery off as scrap same day i bought this. I got the battery back 3pm this afternoon and upon installing, same thing happened again.

I called their chief engineer to complain and here is his response.

"Check the backup time how many hours is going, Forget please battery voltage, Check the battery backup time"

which I responded with "Really? Since when has voltage become irrelevant in batteries?, because it will be foolish to keep discharging a battery to 10.5v as told by this so called chief engineer"

So before I take this further, I need to hear from others if they have experienced a thing as this.
mind you i'm using a Genus 875va inverter and the inverter is working fine, even the previous battery i replaced didn't jump voltage till it died.
Thank you.

The battery is suffering from sulphation as stated up there.

Get an inverter/charger that you can set the voltage....set it at 14.8v to charge for 6 hours or more. This will help "boil" the electrolytes and remove the sulphates on the plates. You can then keep charging at 14.4v or as advised by battery manufacturer.

Sulphation causes battery not to charge properly and the battery cannot withstand loads when battery is not charging. Hence, you will observe sudden drop in voltage when there's light out or PV is off.

odimbannamdi:
I think this was the same problem Abdomox was having with his 2 units of newly installed Luminous tubular batteries. The electrolyte was gauged beyond the recommended level, and he had to drain out nearly a litre of it before things resolved.

The guy should follow the steps you highlighted and inform the house. I also remember earthrealm saying something about most inverters being incapable of effective charging a flooded battery. I think one has to be specific in inverter selection when using a flooded battery

Regarding the emboldened; how possible is it? Can you explain how the connection would look like?

Exactly. In my situation, I drained the electrolytes to the recommended level as they were filled to the brim by Luminous staff.

Most flooded batteries do suffer sulphation (also spelt as sulfation) because they've been in store for long period. Hence, they need equalization or "high voltage" charging immediately they are purchased. I did 6 hours of charging at 29.6v after draining the electrolyte to recommended level, and everything has been performing well.

But I reverted to 28.8v afterwards. It seems our gurus are advising 29.6v as normal charge now.

Monlo:
I have a good used 12volts 200AH Luminous ba3 available,if interested.....
Zero-8054488-three-18

I can't use two different battery brands due to chemistry. I'm in need of 200Ah Quanta. Thanks.

odimbannamdi:


My Oga, do you refer to our newly purchased Luminous tubular batteries?

Lol. No. The Luminous tubular batteries are doing very fine.

This is Quanta. Using it at another location.

Good day all.

Please I need a good used Quanta SMF-VRLA 12v 200Ah battery. One of my batteries is bad, and want to buy this to complement the good one while I prepare for purchase of new set.

Let me know if you have any in stock.

ojeysky:
You can reach the guy that coupled my first 200AH LFP, check my previous posts for his contact. He sells the 200AH 24v (25.6v norminal) at 500k now.

Meanwhile you can ask him to use a BMS with user management interface (he now does that), it will take your cost up by a few amount but it's better to be able to see how each of your cells is performing. It helps for troubleshooting.

Thanks for this info. Can't see previous posts. Please help with his contact details.

ceaser:
I may give you my contact, but the guy oftentimes runs out of stock. We still had a small fight two weeks ago when I learnt he has sold out after I'd expressed interest in buying a few days before.

Of course, he sold out because LFP is apparently gaining traction. I was only cross with him because he didn't inform me to quickly buy as he was running low.

So you might wanna keep this in mind.

Please help with his contact. Thanks

adrusa:
If you can afford it, go lithium, and thank me later. If you can not, buy lead acid and start saving for lithium. I don't sell either of them, but I have worked extensively with both.

Please any recommendation on reliable seller of LFP, and price range. Thanks

ojeysky:
It is if you are working with acceptable DOD on both chemistry

Even with DoD, 50% of 4800WH and 80% of 2400WH are not the same.

babniyen:
Take into consideration the 50% DOD of Lead acid and 80% on Lithium. I am looking for usage comments.

Sure. The calculations did not factor DoD. It's just capacity of the batteries in watt.

babniyen:
Good morning house, I am being offered considering a 100ah 24v Lithium battery as a replacement for my 24v 200ah Lead acid. I want to know if it will standup to the same service levels.. Thanks

No it is not.

100AH 24v = 2400 Watt Hours

200AH 24V= 4800 Watt Hours

That's to show you they differ in capacity. Only 100Ah 48V (if existing) can match 200AH 24V.

eleojo23:
There is a chart for that using the voltage value.

For a 12volt system, 50% DOD is around 12.1 or 12.0 (Multiply the figure by 2 or 4 if it's a 24v or 48v system respectively.)

So once it gets to that voltage, you should stop using the battery until it's recharged. Some programmable inverters automatically cut off load at this voltage if set as such.

Good clarification. The issue is that when battery is on load it drops in volt. Hence measuring the threshold of 12.1v or 12.0v is not that easy.

For example, I set my low DC cut-off voltage to 23.6V on my 24v system cos I know when loads are off it, it reverts to 24v or thereabout. What do you think about this please?

This is to say many thanks to those handling this thread, you've made solar energy easy to understand. Also permit me to appreciate a nairalander I met on this thread.

We discussed and he earned my trust with his high level of professionalism. Very hardworking and trustworthy.

His handle is @olopan

Once again, God bless you all for keeping the knowledge sharing alive!!!

ojeysky:
Make people con buy these victron BMVs na

How much please.

ojeysky:
For instance I log my inverter (axpert variant) data on emoncms through an app called solpiplog both of which are external logging, there are other existing scripts that are shared by various individuals/communities just because axpert(or it's variants) are used by quite a number of people . Growatts on the other hand does not seem to me as being popular like the axpert hence am not sure there are existing tools to read data from it but ofcourse I may be wrong.

Sorry, I'm a novice on this subject matter. When you log data, what does that mean or do? And what's the benefit of the scripts other users share. Thanks.

ojeysky:
If it's the actual axpert then I will say it has more integration options as various communities develop third party apps for it especially if external logging is of interest to you

What do you mean by "external logging" please? And what are examples of the integration options Axpert has that Growatt does not.

Thanks.

Good day all. I need advise on Growatt vs Axpert.

I am planning to buy Growatt inverter, but want to know if anyone has had issues with his/hers over the years. Also, do you think Growatt is better than Axpert as being postulated by these foreigners.

Thank you.

ojeysky:
Not really just the one that I found easily as it was on my order history. He should definitely go for the digital version if budget is not a constraint though am all for Sonoff now

Please help with link for digital version. Don't want to order fake item. Many thanks.

wilmaria14:
Most of u don't get dis hybrid or not always get a CC for ur systems it helps it alot most of u buy hybrid and will not add a MPPT charger to it most all hybrid comes with PWM controller and for me anything more Dan 1kva need a MPPT charger control for it to work well dat is mistake most people do so
1 if u are going for hybrid or not buy a 60a MPPT
To cost it less buy ur normal 2kva inverter and den buy MPPT charger control for it
U can still buy 2kva diamond inverter one of d best with low cost but most people dont know
Tanks

Please help recommend quality and affordable 60A MPPT (will prefer one with equalization function, if available).

Most times, installers dont tell people about these Controllers/Equalizer, perhaps because of initial setup cost. But I think it's better to do them from all info have been reading online.

earthrealm:
Well, you tried with the data, you posted, but a bit incomplete. Flooded batts require 14.5v to 15v charging voltage during absorb, and 23.8v during float. In bulk stage, it gradually ramps up from 13.1v, depending on how depleted the battery is.

Luminous inverters hv poor charging alogorithm, hv always said this, unless you have solar with good cc, i would not advice anyone to buy luminous inverter, worse still for flooded batts.

If 13.8v is the max voltage your inverter is sending out @ 12amps, then your battery are in an unhappy state, and would fail prematurely. C/10 charge rate implies a 200ah batt requires 20 to 25amps charging current to be happy

2ndly, periodic equalization, wch is simply sending higher voltage 15.1v to 15.5v every 2 to 3 months for 2 to 4hrs.you need an inverter or CC capable of doing this

Many thanks for this information. Please help with name of Charge Controller that has equalization functionality. Also, will I be able to use the Charge Controller to increase the amps going into my batteries?