₦airaland Forum

What is the model number?

Valto:
i bought from Aliexpress(Chinese) too, am not the producer , Chinese rates at peaks. so in your opinion ,i should print another label in Nigeria and market to suit your belief?
i always tell any potential customer that the real watts is half.
btw, feel free import yours and market with your pecieved right labels

The bolded is all you needed to reply to my straightforward question. It does not even need any further explanations after that. I only grumbled about the practice in response to @bassdow before you and your fans unleashed the real shenanigans. It is ironic that the only reason we patronize your battery is because you sell actual rating as opposed to some of the bigger companies, but here you are, defending fraudulent practices by Chinese manufacturers because you are reselling their inverters.

Actually, you have eventually answered my question and I'm okay. Unfortunately, next time anyone still advertise sachet inverter that I'm interested in, I will still ask if the power rating is the real rating or the fraudulent one. As far as sachet inverter is concerned, it is a question any enlightened person will/must ask.

adrusa:
Are these normal ratings or peak powers?

This is the simple and straight forward question that I asked about the Sachet inverters @Valto advertised. A simple response stating their actual continuous powers would have been adequate. Rather, he became adversarial and started offering duplicitous explanations that left a lot to be desired.

And coming from him was a great disappointment. This is someone I bought a battery costing about N1.5M from. I also have a brother who has at least two of his batteries. So, I had some implicit confidence in his business ethics believing that he will offer a straight answer.

I have no issues with some of his friends who are mostly scammers roaming around this forum fearing that one of their common scams is being busted. How in God's name will anyone be defending that it is okay to advertise a 1500W inverter as 3000W because that is what the manufacturers call it, even when the manufacturers usually indicate on the inverters or the manuals what the continuous nominal powers are?

It is NOT EVEN TRUE that all sachet inverters are advertised with their peak powers as @mctfopt rightly pointed out. I have at least 4 sachet inverters in my house. 3 are from Aliexpress and are labelled with the peak power ratings. The one that powers my home lab is bought on Amazon an it carries the proper power rating. (Picture attached).

That was why I asked if the ratings @Valto advertised are normal or peak ratings. I was actually looking at buying the 6000W one ONLY if it is the true rating. I had no intention of running anyone down. I asked a sincere question to help my purchase decision and it is sad that @Valto allow his fans to turn a simple clarification into accusations and insults.

Collione:
Hello house. I have a 6kw deye hybrid inverter the plastic body that's trending. Anyways the PV port seems to be outputting AC current somehow. If you put your tester in the port it illuminates and if you connect the PV breaker to the SPD and then earth the SPD my inverter and appliances will be shocking. How can I solve this . Is the inverter having factory issues?

Disconnect the AC output and see if your tester is still illuminating. Ensure that the misconnection is not coming from your house wiring before technicians start playing with your inverter.

AyarmBoye:
oga rest abeg,,if you have complaints reach the manufacturers and not @valto the reseller….or go to Aliexpress and order…Or just go into the business and advertise your own like that….You just Dey type type type on top sachet inverter wey no get value

Even if it is only one person who is saved from buying 2500W inverter while thinking that they were buying 6000W, my job would have been done. It costs nothing to be totally upfront with a customer who may not be familiar with the fraudulent ratings practice by the Chinese. I will never buy an inverter without knowing the real power ratings even if they are inflated by the manufacturers using Peak power to advertise it.

By the way, keep the insults coming, it tells me the kind of persons you are.

Valto:
95% of all real pure sine wave sachet inverters are all rated at peak, the continuous power are half of the rated power and everyone buying them are aware or made to be aware! i can't advertise something different from what the manufacturer stated!

Your response is very interesting and deliberately misleading. It is not everyone that is an expert on the poor ethics of sachet inverter manufacturers that will recognize that a 3000W inverter actually means 1500W. I'm familiar with inverters and even I don't understand a system that inflates inverter powers using their short-lived peak output. That was why I asked you. And I expected that you will respond with their true nominal powers, not hiding under this "manufacturers' claims".

Even Aliexpress sellers clearly indicate the nominal ratings of their inverters, not just leave it to buyers to guess. This is an example from Aliexpress:

[/b]Warm reminder: Dear buyer!

Inverter 2000W, continuous power is 900W, peak power is 2000W.
Inverter 3000W, continuous power is 1300W, peak power is 3000W.
Inverter 4000W, continuous power is 1600W, peak power is 4000W.
Inverter 5000W, continuous power is 2200W, peak power is 5000W.
Inverter 6000W, continuous power is 2500W, peak power is 6000W.
Inverter 8000W, continuous power is 3000W, peak power is 8000W.[b]

When you advertise your inverters next time, please do the same. Include their real nominal outputs so that buyers know exactly what they are getting. It is the honest thing to do. And as you can see, real power is not always "half of their rated powers", it is often less than half.

AyobamiOluwole:
Very typical 😫
You did not even answer my question. You are just blabbing.

Interesting. The easy recourse to insult by children who have more data than sense has also crept here. You asked a silly question, but I chose to respond to you with education and your erudite response is I'm blabbing!

You are wrong. Normally inverters have nominal power ratings and several peak power ratings. A nominal power rating is what the inverter can handle normally and indefinitely. If an inverter is rated 3000W, it should be able to carry 3000W indefinitely. Peak power rating can vary by how long the peak power can last before the inverter trips. A 3000W inverter may have a peak power of 6000W which can only last for 5s before the inverter trips. It may be able to output 4000W for longer time like 10s or 15s. The peak rating is needed because of inductive loads like AC and Freezers that require high power when they are first started before settling down to their normal power consumption.

I have a 3.6KW Outback Inverter that can do 3.6KW and slightly more. I have also had hybrid inverters that can do up to their ratings.

You may have been confused by two things.

1. Power factor (PF) which creates a difference between apparent power and real power. Apparent power is measured in KVA while real power is measured in KW. When power factor is 1, both KVA and KW are the same. When power factor is less than 1, KW is KVA * PF. A 5KVA inverter with a PF of 1 is 5KW. If the PF is 0.7, the inverter rating will be 5*0.7 or 3.5KW.

2. The second problem is fraud or deliberate mis-labelling by marketers especially the Alaba guys who put higher stickers on lower specced equipment.

If you will allow @valto to answer my question, you will see that he does not need to test the inverters to know their real ratings because they are actually indicated in their specifications. The Chinese quote the peak powers as a form of marketing gimmicks and fraud, but they will indicate in small letters the real powers of the inverter.

AyobamiOluwole:
Let me understand something.

If a product description of an inverter produced and written by a white man reads 3Kva, I should tell you it’s actually 2kva? Like I (a normal person who happened to be selling inverters) needs to test all the different brands and specs of all the inverters myself to be able to tell you that it’s actually a 2kva, etc?

Is that what you mean?

bassdow:
Those are Peak Power ratings. If they quote Normal Ratings, it would appear small which is bad marketing Wise.

There are inverters that could be 5kva but actual power is 3.5kva but if advertised as 3.5kva, you go leave am go find the wan wey big.

It is misleading and false marketing to advertise inverters using their peak powers which can only be sustained for very few seconds. @Valto should advertise their normal ratings.

Valto:
3000w 100k
4000w 160k
6000w 215k

Are these normal ratings or peak powers?

As requested.

Iinnov8:
Hello boss,

Apologies about your ordeal. I have sold the 3000w Easun offgrid inverter for nearly 4 years and the company has been extremely supportive with providing me with the proprietary control cards to effect repairs, and it has been the backbone of the after-sales support i provide to my customers.

I just took delivery of 50 cards across the 12v and 24v variants of the 3000w last week, and 30 more cards will be leaving China by this week.

Can we connect so that you can share pictures of the part you need and I can speak with my account manager to provide it for you at a fee.

House, which inverter has the best after sale support in Nigeria in terms of availability of parts and repairs? I have an EASUN 6.2kW inverter with damaged control board which I have not been able to get repaired. I could not even get the control board. The makers are not even willing to provide it, even at a cost.

sirneyo2005:
Please does this mean that the cell in red is bad because since I bought it I have been experiencing this I thought after long usage it will auto balance and work like the others

Most likely, but one other possibility is loose connection. But this voltage under no load with other cells above 3v is most probably a problematic cell.

I bought a 2025 LG UHD TV Model 75UA8500 from Fouani Store in Ibadan in December and everything was fine until a few days ago when it stopped connecting to the Internet. It connects to my network with wifi or cable, it just does not have internet. Is anyone else experiencing this?

Does anyone know how to connect this charge controller to a computer to adjust and read settings? I know it does MODBUS but I don't see it implemented by anyone. Any help is welcome.

CuteMaro:
I don't think it's just about cost. There are DIY enthusiasts too, I see nothing wrong with it.

I can say we have a kind of lazy culture in Nigeria. In most advanced countries like the US for instance, some basic mechanic, plumbing, electrical and carpentry jobs are done DIY. A man is supposed to be handy so there is nothing wrong in showing interest or suggesting someone try DIY.

It's fun as long as you know your limits and don't mess with high voltage

We are not lazy, the problem is that our labour is cheap. If it costs you an arm and a leg to get an artisan to come and change an electric socket in your house (as it will cost them in the US or UK), you will learn to fix many things yourself.

cyif2003:
Omo I just noticed my 60inches l.g smart tv is 205 watts. That's is much ohh..

That is like the theoretical maximum. You are most likely using less than that unless your brightness, contrast and loudness are always set to the maximum. Get a meter to measure real time power consumption.

What is the model number?

AyobamiOluwole:
Bassdow

You need to understand that a lot of us come from Science background and probably understand that physics better than you.

The calculation you did there is just as useless as the P in Psychology; while trying to show smartness or whatever.

8Kwh Energy capacity of 24V beats 4Kwh of 48V any day anytime. It’s just like comparing someone who has 2 apples with someone that has 1 apple. My system of 8Kwh will run for 2days if your system of 4Kwh runs for 1 day.

If you did not do that Maths and only stated that a 48V system has efficiency and wiring advantages over 24V then I wouldn’t have wasted time typing all this.

This disadvantage is not a big deal if my 100Amps controller can completely charge my battery from 9am to 2pm without any issh.

So what’s the fuse? Lols.

Correct. Actually, when we talk of KWh, the voltage doesn't count. So, 8KWh at 1V is more than 4KWh at 1000V. I think the mistake is in thinking in terms of AH where the amount of KWh or energy is dependent on the voltage. 250AH at 48V will be more than 400AH at 24V for instance. But when we talk of KWH, the voltage and the AH had been factored in. So, the higher KWH always give more energy.

However, 48V has some other ancillary advantages over 24V, but not in terms of overall energy.

oluchibabe:
Thanks guys.
I will post my BMS settings, which l got from a You-tube Video of Installer, below.

Bit-by-bit, l am getting the hang of it.
My instincts are leaning towards "Low Inverter Capacity". or some limiting Factor by the BMS settings, on the Maximum Watts l can draw from the battery, through the inverter, at a time
My Inverter is 5KVA,
When l put on the Fridge, along with basic things that are always on (Phone Chargers, 3 Routers, about six LED bulbs, four Cameras, Two fans), it does not shut-off.
But despite turning off the Fridge and Fans (Other things remain On), Once l put on the Electric Cooker or Boiling Kettle or Microwave, it just Shutdown almost immediately and Battery Capacity goes to Zero (from the display on the Inverter!)

But strangely, if l then remove any of the high Power appliance above that caused the shutdown, and reboot the Inverter, the Battery Capacity displayed goes to about 50% - 75% and it could Power Fan and all those small-small items above, for the whole Night.

- So, reckon the Inverter display of Zero battery Capacity left, is false, otherwise it wont power small items through the whole night.
- If Battery can work all night on those small items, it means it has capacity more than 3KW that the Cooker should draw (but shuts it down).
This is why l am suspecting BMS is the one shutting things down

Or maybe l just need a bigger Capacity Inverter?
I would have thought about a 10KVA Inverter but that would require l sell my current 5KVA which is working perfectly, aside this unexplained shut down when l load a Cooker or AC or some other heavy load.

I want to ask, my current Inverter does not indicate l can Parallel it with another %KVA of same type.
Is there any workaround to this, whereby l buy the same 5KVA type and l am able to make them work together as a 10KVA

Has anyone been able to "join" two HYBRID Inverters (not the standard ones that has Parallel capability originally), to produce bigger output, maybe by WIRING Configuration (say, for example, join the 5kva output of one, with the 5kva of the other, into one single Output of 10kva, to Power Appliances and charge the Battery Bank?
I know some people are already wondering whether l get sense at all, nor vex, l am just exploring Options.

Apologies for my long story.

Drop your single Voltage low protection to 2.8V and see what happens. That figure can actually go as low as 2.6. Can you also show you cell voltages readings with the fridge on?

WizardOfNG:
[/b]

Please be sensible and reasonable. An autopsy is where the inquest should begin for sensible and rational people.

The family is fishing for negative information to implicate the airline for monetary pay-out.

lebete3000:
No need for all these demarketing. You're not talking to a half-wit.

Information abounds on the internet and word of mouth, puts Victron as one of the best inverters, far better than the Chinese brand Deye sef.

Haven't heard about the Cerbo GX and MK3 USB you spoke about sha, but would research it.

And Victron 8kva isn't 4m by the way, even the 10kva is circa 4.5m on Konga (more expensive expectedly).

Spit facts man.

If you haven't heard of Cerbo GX and MK3 USB, then you should have gone for further studies before accusing him of "demarketing" Victron. Victron's equipment integrate very well, but they will dime and nickel you to death with cables and accessories. And foolishly, they have many different interfaces on their equipment. Some support CAN, some VE direct and some the notorious MK3 USB.

Look well before you jump and if you eventually take the plunge, don't come and whine here.

bassdow:
4pcs of 200Ah batteries in parallel would give 12v 800Ah. That's a lot of current to handle, which increases losses despite requiring large thick cables (wires) which also costs more money + the inherent danger with such battery bank.

Common 2pcs of 200AH batteries alone in parallel sef would cause some issues except proper steps are put in place let alone 4pcs.

There's a reason most of us (at least the pros among us) prefers High voltage Low current especially in Solar panels. Even PHCN (NEPA) does similar hence reason they need transformer to step it up.

Even the charger it's sef also would be under pressure to deliver hence another issue. Don't forget, Voltage from source forces it's self in BUT it's the appliance that takes the amount of current it needs.

Hence if you have a 12v 800AH battery bank but the charger is rated 15v 30amps, the charger pushes in approximately 15v but it's the battery that would draw the amount of current it needs BUT since some internal mechanics comes into play, it would be limited to approximately 80 to 100amps which still is too much for such charger hence the charger ends up over heating and failing. Think of why a lot of laptop chargers either keeps getting warm, or hot during usage. Often times, it's because the amp rating of said charger is small for such laptop. BUT try giving said laptop a charger whose voltage is more than what's on the laptop and see it fry your laptop/appliance.

Hopefully such charger ain't dumb else fire fit start

Let me stop here

None of this is correct. Irrespective of the size of your battery bank, the charger will supply the maximum current it is rated for. 15V 30A charger will supply a maximum of 30A which all the batteries will share among themselves based on their state of charge/internal resistance. Also, the current that will be drawn is not dependent on the battery bank size but on the draw by the connected appliances. In addition, how thick the cable needed is will depend on probable current draw. If we are talking in the range of 30A, the cables do not have to be too thick.

Therefore:

1. There is no reason not to use all the 4 batteries at the same time in parrallel.
2. The cable size will depend on the intended current draw.
3. The charger will not overheat becuase it will only supply the amount of current it is rated for, unless it is an overrated or poor china quality.
4. However, 30A charger will take a long time to fully charge the battery if they are depleted.

Drgreatone:
I still dont understand some of the comments made here especially on a business deal that we were not involved in from the onset. Instead of encouraging them to resolve their issues amicably, its judgement some are passing and calling the vendor names as if una holy pass.
U can not dictate the amount a businessman sells his products, no where in the world is that done. Wud this uproar still be same if the client didnt know battery was gotten from Mr Reed? Or if he had gotten same from Alaba?
Some of u here buy soft drinks/water at exorbitant prices at restaurants/hotels but see no issue with it yet if the woman by the street attempts it, all hell wud be let loose and even she wud be called names. The hypocrisy!!!
Some ppl here advertised their goods at ? exorbitant prices and u cant blame them as its business but one benefit of this group has been to link u directly to direct sellers so u can get it cheap. Its ow I got to know valto, danfreey,mr reed, zeestone and even fouani.
Like the slogan on the TG solar group, everyone is encouraged to DYOR(do your own research). Its to avoid tales like this.
We will all be fine last last.
If i give u price and you dont like it, look for someone else. The sky is big enough for all the birds to fly in.

This situation is not about a simple vendor–buyer relationship. It involves an installer who deliberately misrepresented the cost of a battery in order to charge an excessive price for the material, on top of his labour and service fees.
The installer did not claim to be the seller of the battery. Instead, he falsely told his client that the inflated price was the actual cost of the battery, and that it was equivalent in quality to his preferred choice — which was untrue.
While it’s common for artisans to add a markup on materials as part of their business model, doing so through deception is unethical. A modest fee for logistics or handling is understandable, but a markup of 30% or more — amounting to hundreds of thousands in profit on a single battery — is unreasonable.
If someone wants to profit from selling materials, they should operate transparently as a retailer, where they can set prices as they wish. As an installer, however, the fair approach is to charge openly for labour and logistics, not to disguise excessive profit margins within the material cost.

CuteMaro:
Charging 2m for a 1.6m battery is nothing but outright greed and should be called out, no mincing words. You want to profit more than the builder for being a middle man, while still charging premium for your services. That is gutter behaviour and I'll never support it.

Trippledots better do right by your name else this stuff will stick with you as long as this forum exists.

As for complainant, sorry about the situation, please next time do due diligence and ask questions here before making final decisions. Mrreed's battery are great and will serve you very well. Whatever the outcome of this situation will be, next time please be more careful. Sharks everywhere!

It is an unfortunate mindset of many Nigerian business people; maximal profit at the expense of their clients. Taking 2M for a 1.6M battery does not show character, it shows greed and avarice. This person will rob, given the opportunity. And in fact he has technically robbed his client using his knowledge, and the client's trust as weapons. He will remain in my bad book until he remedied the situation.

bkuranga:
Can I replace this with a lithium battery abeg?
It's for a FAN.

@dollarnaira and others.

Yes, there are drop in replacement lithium batteries on Amazon, never seen one locally. I know because I once considered something like that. The other thing you may need to worry about is charging profile, but I think it should be fine if you can find the battery.

bassdow:
why not get a separate system whose inverter capacity is just enough to carry a few load. Anytime dey load it to some extent, it should trip off

It is something I have thought about, but running two parallel systems is inefficient and requires some changes in house wiring. I'm not going to do that to safe a few KWh.

These are old inverters, they are not worth the prices you are putting on them.

omotoda:
True.My madam does not care whether we are on NEPA or solar,microwave on straight and you will hear freezer and fridge can't be off.I had to do a separate 5kva for fridge, freezer and microwave so my other house power needs do not suffer.However,all still co ones down to economic power.If one can invest in higher capacity at the on go,it's the best.Set up takes less space and is neater

I have been on solar for more than 10 years and have been 99% dependent on solar for more than 4 years, yet my people have never learnt to conserve energy. 5KVa inverter will carry all my load but I got 7.5Kva becuase my people will turn on Kettle, Microwave and Toaster at the same time even when Water Heater is running in the morning.

With a fridge and freezer, TV, light, fan and phone charging, 10KWh consumption per family per day will be conservative. People tend to underestimate their power need when planning solar installation. Your power use will grow with solar or with constant NEPA.

They are all fake capacities from China. Buyers, please don't throw your money away.

Will you take 100k?