Adrusa's Posts
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1. The best scenario will be to get a non-smart TV with good picture quality (4K, HDR, Dolby Atmos etc) and supplement it with a good TV box (Google or Apple TV) that you can replace cheaply when their software support stops. 2. The trouble is that you can hardly find a good quality TV without smart features. Most TV manufacturers reserve their best TVs for smart TVs. Non-smart ones are likely to be cheap and have poor picture quality. 3. Irrespective of whether your TV is smart or not, you will still find that you need a TV Box if you are serious about Smart TV features. With TV box, you will have better hardware, better software update, more compatible software and more features than your smart TV. 4. I have an LG (Webos) and Hisense (Vidaa) smart TVs in my house, but I don't use the smart features. I have Apple TV, Google TV and Mi Box. We don't interact with the TVs at all. We use the boxes and a soundbar. The TV is just for displaying the pictures from the TV boxes. By the way, I have had the Mi Box for close to 3 years. Never had any problem with it. |
Has anyone else observed the very low solar yields in South West states over the last 2 or 3 months or so? I have compared my July and August 2023 yields to July and August 2024 yields and this year has been clearly worse. It looks like Climate Change is very real and is creeping into our shores gradually. |
Sorry, what did he do wrong? dollarnaira: |
Edrizz:Looks like you guys simply have issues with Dam5reey1 because I don't understand why you guys are exposing yourself like this. The owner of the system said he went with "smaller 12v batteries". Did he say he bought only one battery? He even said batteries, not battery, why are you surprised that his "batteries" added up to 24v? And as it has been pointed out to you, some LifePO4 can be connected in series. This is the point I think you should just leave well alone. If you have other issues with Dam5reey1, let us know, but on this case you are all out of point. |
Deluxe8000:Looks confusing, but I will say it is mono... |
Almost 1M for a glorified iPod touch? |
Quincy10:Good for you. You are also a scammer yourself. You wanted to scam Spectranet, but their god pass you. I hope the money they scammed from you is plenty ![]() |
compunigeria:KWhr is calculated from KW using the formular KW x T where T is time. The process can be done automatically using simple scripts. I use Home Assistant (HA) which takes KW and converts it to KWHr on an ongoing basis. So, to answer your question: Felicity CC don't calculate the KWhr but there are many ways to get KWHr on an ongoing basis. |
EPOMA:Same here. I bought a battery from him based on the recommendation of a friend who has had one of his batteries for about 2 years or more. The battery I bought came with JBD BMS which seems to have occasional loss of Bluetooth connection. However, I do not consider this a serious issue and I did not even contact @Valto to complain. I think his batteries are good. He didn't make the BMS and it is likely that one may just have a dud. This is not something to attack him for. |
ojesymsym:See above |
isangjohnson:I eventually found a code on GitHub, but it requires "flashing" . So, if you are up to it look at the following repositories. 1. https://github.com/syssi/esphome-pipsolar for Axpert inverters and clones including some felicity inverters and charge controllers 2. https://github.com/syssi/esphome-jk-bms for JK-BMS 3. https://github.com/syssi/esphome-jbd-bms for JBD BMS 4. https://github.com/syssi/esphome-ant-bms for ANT BMS 5. https://github.com/syssi/VictronSmartShunt-ESPHOME for Victron Smartshunt, BMV and Bluesolar Charge Controllers |
Xanderone:It is a lot easier to do than you think. Once you get the hang of it, which is very easy to do, it becomes a part of you. And the reward is sweet. I don't buy any smart thing if I can not "flash it" and put it completely under my control. I have Sonoff, Victron, Axpert, Wemo, Emporia, ANT BMS, JK-BMS, JBD BMS, Felicity, Easun products, etc and I talk to them locally without using the manufacturers' apps or internet connection. |
kwende:If you get power 12hours everyday, you probably don't need solar, just get 15KWh Lifepo4 and inverter and you are home and dry. You use the stored power when there is no electricity and you recharge the battery when electricity returns. |
waleco2008:Brand, model, picture? |
swagifted:The major benefit for me is that I don't need internet to control my switches. I actually came across Home Assistant, Tasmota and Esphome when I started looking for ways of controlling my switches when the internet is down in the house. |
ojesymsym:Yes, no individual smart plug except for smaller things like TV, fans, wall switches where I use sonoff switches flashed with esphome. |
ojesymsym:Each of them has a contactor controlling them. The contactors are controlled by an 8-channel relay connected to an ESP32 which does the controlling through Home Assistant and Node-Red. |
litaninja:My AC is the regular AC, bought close to 10 years ago. The power consumption depends on ambient temperature. When the weather is hot, it consumes more power. I haven't seen any significant initial surge as I see with the pumping machine. When it came up yesterday night about 11:40pm, the starting power was 1457W which came down to 1421W at about 1:20am when it went off. Earlier yesterday in the afternoon, the starting power was 1588W. |
jonescosmos:It is smart world, anything you can measure can be used as a condition to start or stop something. Let me just share a snippet of my water heater control. Bonus: You can see that when my water heater is about to come on, my AC (ACSolar) is first switched off.
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sharks776:You are obviously limited by what you are exposed to. In my house, The pump fills my tank between 4am and 5am. My water heater comes on between 5am and 7am. If my battery is fully charged in the afternoon, the heater comes on again between 1pm and 4pm. My fridge/freezer comes on at 8am and turns off at 5pm. Everything controlled like clockwork with Home Assistant and Node Red. |
ojesymsym:Even more. If I have Deye, I wouldn't even use its smartload function. I have much better control with my smart setup. Unlike Deye Smartload, I can shed high load selectively. I can power fridge and freezer without powering any other thing. If I want my freezer to stay on, when freshly filled, I can just set that. I can power pump without turning the heater on. Smartload is for people who don't know that better options exist. |
QuoteJust1nce:So, what is "priority data 40Gb" if Starlink is truly unlimited? https://www.starlink.com/legal/documents/DOC-1469-65206-75?regionCode=NG My fibre connecrion is truly unlimited in terms of data cap. I can do 100TB if I have the need and the time for it. No FUP at all. |
QuoteJust1nce:What kind of home server? If you are running a busy website from your "home", you are not a regular home user. I run a smart home server and online DVR at home and my 20mbps work perfectly. I stream 4k regularly on my 20mbps using Youtube or Netflix. Youtube requires 15mbps for 4k while Netflix requires a little more, but with precaching 20mbps is more than adequate for 4k streaming. I download things well beyond 50GB using torrent or direct download, it takes time. If you need to download 50gb "engineering template" over short period, you are not a regular home user. My home is not a cybercafe. I don't have all members of the family streaming HD movies on different screens all at the same time. I wonder how often this also happens in your own home. Of course a gigabit link will solve all world's problem, but unless you have a special need for insanely fast internet due to the nature of your work, 20mbps is good enough. |
QuoteJust1nce:So, tell me what your 100mbps is doing that a regular home can not do on 20mbps? |
QuoteJust1nce:Nigerians and their bragging. 20mbps is fine for the overwhelming majority of internet users. It will do Youtube, Netflix, Prime Videos etc fine. I know because I'm using one at home with fibre. With fibre all over Lagos for which entry fees are less than 100k, I had asked myself why people are rushing Starlink. When the thing first launched in Nigeria, I repeatedly tried to buy, but I kept finding it difficult to justify that expense especially since I have a good fibre connection that I pay less than 20k for per month. It is also unlimited and there is no FUP. It is 20mbps for one whole month and I have pulled over 1TB data in some months. Besides, the report I'm getting is that the 100-300mbps is not always guaranteed. I have seen people with 40mbps download. I don't see the noise about Starlink if you live in an urban area with access to high speed unlimited fibre connection. I can not justify paying extra 20k for a bandwidth I really don't need. |
Juror:True, I used to do something like that when I was using Outback. |
twinskenny:I doubt it. The Deye Smartload system takes advantage of the dedicated Generator Port by converting the Gen port to output under certain conditions. So, it will require that you wire your heavy loads to the gen port. If your inverter does not have this baked into its software, you can not use it even if you have 2 outputs. However, you can achieve the same thing in different ways. For example, what I did is to put my large loads including AC, Fridge/Freezer, Water Heater and Water Pump on a smart relay that is controlled by Home Assistant. They can then be programmed to work only when battery SOC/Voltage/Current is between certain levels. |
mctfopt:He behaves like a kidnapper. Once he smells money from you, he will try to collect it as quickly as possible and if you don't immediately drop the money at his feet, he declares you an enemy! ![]() |
holarsheni:Model number and processor? |
xtremeidea:It is straightforward, just connect and fire up MPPTracker, but there is one little snag, the cable pinout appears to be unusual. You may have to modify your RJ45 to serial cable according to the pinout I previously posted here. If you are using a usb port, you also need a USB to serial converter. Or you could use ESPHOME if that is something you are able to do. You can follow the guide from here: https://github.com/syssi/esphome-pipsolar |
nicodemusic:The rs232 port is serial port for communicating with your inverter including reading and setting its parameters like Low Voltage and High Voltage disconnect (LVD and HVD), setting charging parameters etc. The BMS port is for communicating with the BMS of a lithium battery. |
