₦airaland Forum

laluski:
Lemme get this straight, you created a thread only to say "content loading soon"?
Tell me is that pure stupidity or not.if you knew you were bored simply make the topic " I'm bored" and I'll understand you havent eaten all day and send you N10 as food money.

Lol....content is being vetted by my partners...once they approve final text will post it...sorry

Nigerian used cars have been unfairly treated on this forum.

Yet for the vast majority they represent not an option but the only choice.

Can something be done to make that choice one without regret?

Stay tuned about a new offer from AutoElectNG

TheCar:
You can use currency converter app available in Shopify store. What it does is convert your price to your reader local currency. E.G. if am veiwing your website from Nigeria, the currency displayed is Naira, whereas someone viewing the same website at the same time in Europe get EUR displayed.

The only challenge is who would be your payment processor since Nigeria PayPal can only pay and not receive. You can Google or ask around (I don't use Shopify would have preferred a workable solution).

Also to drive traffic, try content marketing. Just like Romeo used to do on Nairaland before he branch out to the world.

Write about Uber/Taxify, Automotive news, car maintenance, insurance, vehicle security etc.

You can monitize the blog with affiliate marketing (e.g. Amazon or AliExpress) or you can use AdSense (Google Ad Network) for bloggers.

Also if possible, provide complementary services, like your Fleet Management, Uber/Taxify Capacity Building etc.

If not too much, start selling accessories that Uber/Taxify drivers would need. e.g. phone mount, data plan, air freshener etc

Whatever you do, ensure you have a way to retain them as customer. Have something for them to keep coming back unlike the one-off transaction of buying agreement and guarantors form.

If possible, network with service providers (A/C Repairer, Mechanic, Spare Part sellers, Painters, etc) to recommend their services for a commission.

A website is major investment and a good source of revenue if you utilize it very well.

Once again, Congratulations.

Your comments have been pretty sound.

From a silent observer.

tizteezy:
Thank you for the insightful stuff.
However, if I'm being honest I understand very little of what you said there.

I've never owned a car, just started learning to drive. I intend getting a car. I don't have huge budget, just a hustling guy.

So, I need a dependable vehicle, low maintenance, good fuel economy, etc at budget under 2 million naira

Do you advise I run away from Volkswagen 2007 - 2012 edition ( where my budget seems to reach)??

Or do you have better suggestions?

A response will be appreciated

Zero in on a model

drmuchin:
It is rare to see a Nigerian share information like this

Thank you.

Those who taught me did not hold back.

I am still learning, and they aren't holding back either.

I am honored by your observation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqLDpHsxvf8

eRex:
Wish I had met u earlier... I really loved driving dose vw cars due to their stamina, speed and handling.... But when it comes to their wahala... I can't stand it.

Most Toyota's since 2005 are CAN-BUS enabled...that is the future of intra-vehicle-networking.

While simple vehicles will make do with two CAN buses...that is to say engine and safety systems on the one hand, and body controls and what have you for the second, complex vehicles will have one CAN bus for every vehicle module installed, as a consequence of having so many CAN buses such vehicles will also need need a CAN BUS gateway controller.

This is one of the reasons why mechanics make a lot of noise about Peugeot being delicate, communication between vehicle modules is no longer via the K line but via the CAN BUS.

Take home point: CAN BUS is here to stay! Upgrade or become irrelevant.

Just as internet speeds have increased from 2G to 3G to 4G and 5G is being tested, and no one wants to use a 2G device today so the capacity for carrying traffic to and fro vehicle modules had to increase and that gave birth to the CAN BUS.

More about K-line protocol (which was used before CAN BUS) https://www.kunbus.com/k-line.html

Why vehicles had to adopt CAN BUS: https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a7386/how-it-works-the-computer-inside-your-car/

tizteezy:
Interesting one Sir

Even in America not every technician wants to be involved in troubleshooting problems when modules in a vehicle's LAN run amok.

I can share with you evidence to that effect but due to copyright concerns I can't post it publicly.

Vehicle inspected

It is a 2011 Honda Accord EX-L 4 Cylinders 2.4L FI DOHC

Summary of vehicle details included in the picture below excluding sequential number ( we respect client personally identifiable information)

Sample of vehicle uploaded below (picture from internet - not actual vehicle, actual pictures of the problems with the vehicle will be posted though)

Detailed list of issues with the vehicle coming later

eRex:
Brabd New volks.... I will support u.
Naija used... Bros I will flee from u...
I bought naija golf 4 and almost had heartache. Sold it after 3 weeks 150k less what I bought it.
My friend bought a naija used Passat 07 and sold it for half the price he bought it after a month

*but*

There should be good ones out there... Just me not willing to take d risk no more.

European vehicles (read that to mean German vehicles like VW/Audi, Mercedes Benz and French vehicles like Peugeot) have extremely complex implementations of vehicle LANs (read that to mean CAN-BUS)

If there was ever a vehicle that will not accept untrained hands toying with them...the above listed would be on that list.

That said, if you know vehicles inside out, or you have a trained technician who knows vehicle technology inside out and is not just good with mechanics but poor with electrical electronics - then you can drive these sort of cars.

On the other hand, if you know you will be dealing with road side techies, then do not do these kinds of vehicles.

That said, there is a Nigerian used and abused VW that I am trying to resurrect.

Those vehicles are not so difficult to work with to the initiated.

Currently negotiating to diagnose and remedy a 2011 Honda Accord with 3 problems

1. High fuel consumption
2. A/C System blockage aka Black Death
3. Fans no longer controlled by ECU logic

Inspection scheduled for tomorrow Sunday.

If we have a deal, findings will be documented here.

empron:
what about ECU adaptation?will that work?

Not sure.
I think it should.
Will check and revert.

One more thing, the vehicle I am working on is a manual.

The replacement ECU is meant for an automatic!

P1680: Reset-Resistant Limp-Mode Active

Please refer to notes above under P1612.

Those note apply here.

If that is not the case, then we are dealing with an immobilizer defeat that was less than a perfect job.

Once the remedy to P1612 is applied to this ECU, this code should evaporate.

P1631: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor -G79- Signal too high

This code is an indication that the vehicle is afflicted with the take me home aka limp home mode.

Once this condition occurs, nothing will make a VW rev up!

Is there a problem with the connections to this module? Do the contacts suffer from dirt and or corrosion causing the voltage and or current flowing to be out of sync with factory specifications? Is the accelerator pedal itself bad?

Our tests will reveal the next course of action.

These tests have to be redone. Then will update this post.

P1631: Bank 1, sensor 1 heating element circuit Open circuit cont'd


More pictures

P1631: Bank 1, sensor 1 heating element circuit Open circuit


Remember that no heater circuit, no oxygen sensor!

Physical inspection of the oxygen sensor wiring indicated that it was cut, damaged, exposed or frayed!

The repair was a wack job.

More about this later - this a very bad thing to do on any vehicle, take less of a VW, it is very unforgiving of such abuse, and the price that is paid is usually very high.

Have you noticed that as far back as 1999 VW was using a 6-terminal oxygen sensor?

By the way, the value obtained were outside of the expected range.

If the sensor were in spec, the value obtained from the resistance test ought to have fallen between 2.5 and 10.0 ohms.

So this oxygen sensor will need to be replaced

P1612: Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) -J220-1) Incorrect coding

There is a mismatch between the ECU in the car and the model of car that the ECU was meant to control

OR

The logic in the ECU is at variance with the logic for controlling this car and its associated modules

AND

The ECU has detected this

SO

we need to introduce/adapt this ECU to the vehicle and its modules.

TO DO THIS

will involve virginizing the ECU i.e., ridding the ECU of all the details linking it to the former vehicle it was controlling, call it a new ECU inside an old ECU body, so that it becomes software speaking and not hardware speaking, a brand new ECU...a blank slate sort of...ready, willing, able to be programmed with the details of the vehicle it will now be controlling.

In very plain language, the replacement ECU still contains the VIN of a 2002 VW Passat but it is installed in a 2004 VW Bora/Jetta.

Unlike a Bora/Jetta and a Gold which are remarkably similar, a Bora/Jetta is a very different animal from a Passat and by extension, the logic that runs one cannot run the other, hence the need to synchronize the ECU's logic with the vehicle it is installed in - in tech speak, programming or tuning the ECU.

P1606: Rough Road/Engine Torque Signal from ABS: Electrical Malfunction

We would have loved to test for this fault.

But we have to be practical here.

Scenarios where this fault exists can be broken into two:

a) where the ECU is a proper fit for test car
b) where the ECU is a wrong fit for test car

Since this is the wrong fit of ECU for this car, testing to determine why this code was thrown will wait until the ECU is an exact fit for this car and by extension a match for or to this car's ABS unit.

Then and only then can a proper, extensive and valid diagnosis procedure be carried out on our patient.

P1118: Bank 1, sensor 2 heating element circuit Open circuit

There is an important rule of thumb to remember when dealing with oxygen sensors and air fuel ratio sensors - no heater circuit, no oxygen sensor/air fuel ratio sensor!

The ECU reported that there is an open circuit in its heater circuit.

To confirm this, we conducted a resistance test.

If the heater circuit were in order, we should have obtained a value between 6.4 and 47.5 ohms.

The value we obtained was out of that range, so it will be necessary to replace the oxygen sensor.

Physical inspection of the oxygen sensor wiring indicated that it was not cut, damaged, exposed or frayed in any way - nonetheless the oxygen sensor was no longer capable of doing its work!

By the way, this is the rear/downstream oxygen sensor whose work is monitoring catalytic converter activity.

Fastest way to resolve this matter

Create a twitter account for this matter, separate from your normal twitter account, if you have one

Write all the story from the start

Reach out to all the big name bloggers and the head of police PRO

You will see the local police excuse themselves

Those who know know

Someone I know wasted 200,000 bribing police over a matter just because he became an accused not because he was guilty

Faster than going to court

But get documentation ( auditory and pictures) before going this route

http://npf.gov.ng/complaint/

Thank you.

I will update some more later in the day, had to sacrifice some sleep to post those.

New VW thread

Currently attempting to diagnose and resolve a car that starts and idles but does not accelerate/rev/respond to throttle input

It is a 2004 Volkswagen Bora/Jetta 1.6 that has been transformed into a 2.0 courtesy of a heart implant read that to men engine exchange

https://www.nairaland.com/4515362/dealership-level-diagnostics-vw-group

In subsequent posts, we will take apart each of those codes and the test procedures we followed to ensure proper diagnosis of the problem(s) at hand.

Until then stay tuned.

Following that interesting observation, it became necessary attempt to peek into the ECU what was it seeing? And why is it able to start but unable to rev?

https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

It threw us a bunch of codes.

These are the SAE DTCs

P1118: Bank 1, sensor 2 heating element circuit Open circuit

P1606: Rough Road/Engine Torque Signal from ABS: Electrical Malfunction

P1612: Motronic Engine ControlModule (ECM) -J220-1) Incorrect coding

P1631: Bank 1, sensor 1 heating element circuit Open circuit

P1631: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor -G79- Signal too high

P1680: Reset-Resistant Limp-Mode Active

When working with VW products we have to deal with SAE DTCs and VAG DTCs (see picture below).

For each SAE DTC, there is a corresponding VAG DTC or internal reference.

Part Number of Replacement ECU is 06B 906 033 AD

Running that part number through ebay tells us a thing or two about the ECU:

1. That this ECU is meant for a VW Passat

2. That the applicable VW platform is the VW Passat MK6

3. That it belongs to a Passat B5

4. Compatibility of the ECU logic in this ECU is for a Volkswagen Passat 2001 - 2005/Volkswagen Passat 4Motion 2001 - 2005

Part Number of Original ECU is 06A 906 033 BN

Running that part number through ebay tells us a thing or two about the ECU:

1. This Bora/Jetta and Golf are internally similar (you could use the same ECU in a Golf and be good)

2. As Siena used to say, its a Golf with a boot

3. This Bora/Jetta is built on the Golf MK4 platform

4. The engine code is BFQ

Note that only the engine was swapped, the ECU was not. There was also no programming of the keys, the immobilizer or the Instrument Cluster.

So that led to the question, why then was it necessary to replace the ECU?

Because all of a sudden the former ECU died.

Why did the former ECU die?

Why did the replacement ECU stop functioning?

What problems have you faced with this vehicle?

Client claimed that the replacement engine came from a Passat.

This is a physical impossibility without extensive adjustments to the Bora/Jetta

The Passat has a lot in common with the Audi A4/A6 see the first picture for its engine placement (longitudinal mounting)

See the second picture for the engine placement in a Bora/Jetta (transverse mounting)

First picture is courtesy paultan.org

Second picture is courtesy vwvortex.com

Learn more about the various ways of placing an engine in a car here https://www.carthrottle.com/post/transverse-vs-longitudinal-engines-the-pros-and-cons/

Our problem vehicle is a 2004 Volkswagen Bora 1.6L that later became a 2004 Volkswagen Bora 2.0L through a heart transplant.

Although this class of vehicles had up to 21 engines, the sub-model Bora/Jetta had 10 of those.

These were

1.4 I5 DOHC 16V

1.6 I4 SOCH 8V

1.6 I4 DOHC 16V

1.8 I4 DOHC 20V

1.8 I4 DOHC 20V Turbo

2.0 I4 DOHC 8V

2.3 V5 SOHC 10V

2.3 V5 DOHC 20V

2.8 VR6 SOHC 12V

2.8 VR6 DOHC 24V

In Nigeria it seems is common to swap the 1.6 I4 with the 2.0 I4.

And that is exactly what my client and everything worked for a while until ...things went bad

More about the EA827 engines here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_EA827_engine and here http://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/engines/engine-history-audis-ea827-engine-the-inline-four-that-could/

Animations courtesy SAMARINS.COM showing the difference between SOHC and DOHC engines

Up until this afternoon I have been trying to troubleshoot a 2004 Volkswagen Bora 2.0 that would not start sight unseen.

I finally had a chance to spend 2 hours of diagnostic time with the vehicle.

What did I find?

Details later.

Oldies will know that this is blatant shameless plagiarism with some modifications.

All the same if I can be useful to someone, and I have given credit that the words are not of my own construction, but lifted, I cannot be crucified.

There clearly exists even today a gap that most technicians of repute are unwilling to fill, so the conditions are just right for this impersonator

If you have purchased these vehicles that rely heavily on electrical electronics and want a second opinion on a challenge you face.

Feel free to drop your query.

I will attend to them as time permits

Please use the format as shown below:

01) Make.
02) Model.
03) Engine size.
04) Transmission type.
05) Model year.
06) Spec (Euro or US).
07) Drive configuration.

As an example, here is how my details will be posted:

01) Volkswagen
02) Passat
03) 2.0L TSI I4 16V DOHC Turbo
04 6-Speed Auto Tiptronic+Sport
05) 2017.
06) Euro
07) FWD.

Then give as much detail as possible with regards the issues, if any. Examples shown below:

01) Car difficult to start when hot.
02) Car difficult to start when cold.
03) Car does not start at all (engine cranks, but doesn't fire).
04) Car does not start at all (engine does not crank at all).
05) Car starts, but doesn't idle (needs constant gas pedal pressed).
06) Car starts and runs, but jerks in motion, fuel consumption seems higher than normal.
07) Car starts and runs, but jerks in motion, fuel consumption appears normal.
08) Car doesn't start after long drive, but will start as normal after cooling for over an hour and above.
09) Car starts and drives as normal, but becomes sluggish and jerky once warm.
10) Engine has knock and rattle, gets worse under load (driving).
11) Engine has knock and rattle at idle, less under load (driving).
12) Engine died whilst driving. Noise before it stopped, does not sound normal cranking, or doesn't crank at all.
13) Engine idles lumpy (misfire evident).
14) Check Engine Light illuminated.
15) Fuel consumption has increased, car appears to run and drive as normal.
16) Coolant level keeps dropping, no over heating.
17) Coolant level keeps dropping, engine overheating.
18) Coolant level normal, engine overheating.
19) Black smoke from exhaust.
20) Blue smoke from exhaust, engine performance appears normal.
21) Blue smoke from exhaust, marked drop in engine performance.
22) Grey smoke (steam) from exhaust.
23) Oil in coolant reservoir.
24) Coolant / water (sludge) in oil, evident on dipstick and inside of oil filler cap.
25) Auto transmission doesn't change gear, stays in one gear. Gear shift indicator on dash (PRNDS, PRND etc) all illuminated.
26) Auto transmission doesn't engage reverse, all forward gears okay. Gear shift indicator on dash (PRNDS, PRND etc) all illuminated.
27) Auto transmission loses drive once warm. Gear shift indicator on dash (PRNDS, PRND etc) NOT illuminated.
28) Auto transmission slips in all gears, engine revs high, road speed doesn't match. Gear shift indicator on dash (PRNDS, PRND etc) all illuminated.
29) Manual transmission noisy (noise increases with road speed).
30) Manual transmission slips out of gear (more so when braking).
31) Manual transmission crunches when selecting gears.
32) Manual transmission difficult to select individual gears.
33) Manual transmission impossible to select individual gears.
34) Manual transmission impossible to select ANY gears.
35) Clutch pedal soft, will not return to rest position.
36) Clutch pedal stiff, gear selection difficult.
37) Brake pedal spongy, car difficult to stop.
38) Brake pedal has excessive travel before car stops.
39) Grinding noise when applying brakes from speed.
40) Vibration when applying brakes from speed.
41) Car pulls to one side during sudden sharp (emergency) braking.
42) Knocking from front of car over bumps or rough roads.
43) Knocking from rear of car over bumps or rough roads.
44) Car has excessive "bounce" even over moderate bumps.
45) Car appears lower on one side, even when parked on level ground.
46) Droning noise from wheel area, worse when turning corners.
47) Droning noise from wheel area, less when turning corners.
48) Clicking noise from front wheel, worse when turning corners.
49) Vibration from steering wheel at certain speeds.
50) Aircon blows warm air.
51) Aircon blows cold air, but not from vents.
52) External lights don't work.
53) Cruise control doesn't operate.
54) ABS warning light is on.
55) Airbag warning light is on.
56) Battery keeps going flat, battery warning light illuminated.
57) Battery keeps going flat, battery warning light NOT illuminated.
58) Alarm sounds randomly.
59) Remote key does not work.
60) Central locking does not work.
61) Electric window does not work.
62) Electric mirror does not work.
63) Electric sunroof does not work.
64) Horn does not work, or has random operation.
65) One or more doors fails to unlock.
66) Door open warning on dash illuminated, despite all doors being shut.
67) Hood open warning on dash illuminated, despite hood being shut.
68) Trunk open warning on das illuminated, despite trunk being shut.
69) Poor radio reception.
70) Audio volume adjusts itself randomly.
71) Digital central display on dash dim, worse when warm.
72) Digital central display on dash has broken / missing pixels.
73) Wiper operation very slow, even on high setting.
74) Wiper fuse constantly burns out.
75) Wipes don't operate.
76) Key warning lamp on dash flashing, difficult to start car.
77) Key warning lamp on dash flashing, impossible to start car.
78) Key warning lamp on dash flashing, engine starts, then dies after approximately 2 seconds.
79) Fuel pump noisy (buzzing from trunk / rear).
80) Speedo does not work.
81) Speedo works intermittently.
82) Speedo / dash not illuminated with lights on.
83) No communication with diagnostic equipment via OBD II port.

As a gentle reminder, I am interested in

1) Models from 1996 upwards and

2) Who have DTCs be those SAE or VAG codes to assist with troubleshooting sight unseen and/or are willing to pay for these to be obtained with a dealer-level scanner or its equivalents

3) MOST IMPORTANTLY clients with deep pockets who realize that pay for play is the name of the game. Proverbs 22:29 comes to mind:
"Have you seen a man skillful at his work? He will stand before kings; He will not stand before common men."



If I don't respond on time, I am either busy doing something else or consulting the books on your case....eventually I will respond.

NOTE:

I realize that I am trying to step into shoes that are much bigger than mine...so feel free to say what you feel...criticisms...suggestions...will be appreciated and channeled into a feedback mechanism to improve our service to you!