AutoElectNG's Posts
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Macbroomy:Costee resident expert What has thou got to say about this? |
Macbroomy:I'll call you. Is this number also on Whatsapp? |
radautoworks:Shalomc I have not found the link where I last bought the Trane battery from don't know why, but there is another brand I almost bought, just as reliable http://www.bosch.ng/nigeria/en/products-and-services/automotive-spare-parts-384.html The only reason why I did not buy is at the guy the guy in Abuja had the S3 https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/passenger-batteries/s3-batteries but I wanted the S6 High Performance AGM™ Battery https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/passenger-batteries/s6-high-performance-batteries |
Shalomc:I'd rather not rain on someone's parade. This thread is meant to herald a new company/service, let me not detract from the purpose of the thread Contact me with your location off the thread, I may be able to help |
fishing:Buy the big internationally recognized names like Trane. Be willing to spend 45,000 for 500 CCA (approximately 70ah) |
Fixing cars right today requires enormous 1.financial investment; 2. intellectual investment, 3. investment in time, 4. investment in highly skilled labor, 5. investment in tools, 6. investment in education 7. investment in continuing ed. These investments quickly become obsolete as the march of technology progresses. The problem is the vast majority of Nigerians do not invest in new vehicles but used vehicles, if the majority can only afford used vehicles, can they afford to pay for the new tech required to fix new vehicles, and for those investing in new vehicles are they willing to stop looking down on techies and realize that the modern day techie is as much as professional as other highly regarded professionals in Nigeria? Many of our techies need to face the truth...if things are done properly...many of us should not be in business. Let me give an example...which kazeem knows what to do if an oxygen sensor, or rather air fuel ratio sensor with 5 or 6 wires is faulty? That diagnosis of oxygen sensors can only be properly done with the use of scan tools and oscilloscopes, and that technology is implemented so differently across models not to talk of across brands and that what applies to one vehicle cannot apply across board? to illustrate that what is rich in Honda is lean in Toyota? Do many techies agree that each car problem should become a research project involving some time with the FSM, scan tools and maybe even conferring with other techies or even the factory? Based on the above, I heartily welcome the OP to Nigeria and wish him the best in what is generally acknowledged to be one of the most hostile business environments in Africa for a variety of reasons. |
aninweze:I try very much to apply this passage from scripture in my dealings with others: "Do nothing out of contentiousness or out of egotism, but with humility consider others superior to you." Philippians 2:3 I appreciate the compliment. |
So we met. Technical challenges prevented access to factory data. Access subsequently established after hours. Diagnosis and hopefully fix to be executed tomorrow. Will report to the house. OP is free to make his on report as well. Given the background he laid above. |
[quote author=NobleEngineer post=67469793][/quote]Happy to be useful. Happy to have saved you from expense. |
igbizen:I am going to look into your case. Given that it appears you have been ignored. Brand? Mercedes-Benz Model? Year? |
NobleEngineer:Extremely low engine oil and engine wear work hand in hand. Ever wonder why engines that short oil tend to knock while being driven at high speed long distance on expressways? Wait, there is more! Engine oil does more that just lubrication. Engine oil plays a big role in keeping your engine cool. A greater but complimentary role than coolant. Top your engine oil but monitor consumption and keep statistics so we know exactly what solution your problem deserves. Otherwise you are going to replace the engine sooner than you think. And you are going to wonder why you ever got that corolla. I asked highway or town trips because most users report that it does not short oil in the city but on the express. Others report that once you drive at sustained speeds above 100km they begin to notice oil consumption. On another thread you are asking for the price if that engine. My advice: unless you can certify that the engine has been rebuilt to resolve the factory error of too tiny piston ring oil return holes that tend to clog a problem that resolved in the 2003 model, find a good course to donate that money to, it will make you feel better than the rigmarole you are about to enter. Whatever you were told is immaterial, now you know why the former owner got ride of the vehicle. |
franklin93:Why did you say you need someone with knowledge? I have actually given you the solution to your problem in my earlier detailed post which you acknowledged. Something the shops without names and those with names did not do for you. But if you want me to do it for you, then it will attract $$$. That way I can recover from you some of the dollars I spent to be trained. But I can guarantee you it will be fixed right once and for all. Without sounding immodest, that I perfectly understand your problem and its solution is not in doubt. If my prognosis was inaccurate eagle eyed elders would have shown me a yellow or red card. |
Key on Engine Off? When conducting voltage drop tests? Battery disconnected when conducting resistance tests? |
NobleEngineer:
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NobleEngineer:Very true...your vehicle and indeed all vehicles using the same engine suffer from this debilitating problem. https://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Corolla/2000/engine/engine_uses_excessive_oil.shtml The solution is not to buy a tokunbo engine - because all those engines (or nearly all those engines) are faulty. Two solutions: 1. Keep checking and topping oil religiously, not every 500 miles but at every fuel top up, or if you are paranoid every morning. 2. Rebuild the engine My Recommended solution: rebuild the engine There may be a third solution - how ethical it is depends on who is at the receiving end of it - dispose the vehicle - your vehicle, your call. Should you use 20W50? It depends on who you ask. Here is my take on the matter: It will mask the problem, but not solve it - there is a word for it, yea I remember, a band-aid like someone who has ulcer taking panadol, does it eliminate the problem? No! Does it make it seem that the problem has gone away? yea! This thread explains why 20W50 is a bad idea: http://www.corollaforum.com/threads/1998-2002-corolla-excessive-oil-consumption-issues.2471/. You may ignore the references to AMSOIL. How bad is your oil consumption? 1 qt. per 250 miles? 1 qt. per 500 miles? 1 qt. per 750 miles? 1.5 qt. per 500 to 750 miles? 2.0 qt. per 500 to 750 miles? We need raw data to tell you exactly what is wrong? And how bad things are? Do you a lot of highway driving(high speed drives) or city trips (slow speed drives)? I am going to go against the grain of conventional advice on nairaland...use 5w30 but monitor religiously your oil consumption, you have got an oil burner on your hands. If you have detailed statistics on the situation, my advice will change from being generic to specific to your exact circumstances.
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seunoresco:I have the Extended Performance, the Advanced Full Synthetic and the High Mileage oils on sale https://www.nairaland.com/4477823/us-spec-5-qt-mobil Provided you stay within manufacturer specifications, you could also use other certified oils such as Mannol which I also have in stock. See its specifications: Mannol Energy Combi LL 5W-30 API SN/CF Motor oils for cars and transporters > Low viscosity engine oils Corresponds with requirements / specifications / products: SAE 5W-30 API SN/CF ACEA C3 BMW Longlife-04 MB 229.51 PORSCHE C30 VW 504.00/507.00/502.00/505.00/503.01/506.00/ VW 505.01*/506.01** Mannol Energy Combi LL is a multigrade synthetic engine oil for modern petrol and turbo diesel engines with pump-injector units as well with or without diesel particulate filters (DPF, FAP). Provides high pump ability at cold cranking. Has optimal viscosity at wide-ranging temperatures. Effectively prevents from wear-out and provides extreme cleanliness of the engine components. Used in engines with prolonged oil-change intervals (Long Life) and without it. *Except VW PDU engines without LongLife Service (WIV) **Except V10 PDU engines in Phaeton until February 2006 and R5 PDU engines in Touareg until December 2006
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seunoresco:
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Gshakiru:. |
Shalomc:Which variant in particular? |
Shalomc:Mobil 1 Extended Performance or Mannol Energy Combi 'LL 5w30 I can supply either. Both are guaranteed to do that oil change interval |
franklin93:On another job now. Will work on it later. |
seunoresco:http://lubex.com.tr/en-us/quality-certificates.htm Mention is made of OEM certifications but none is listed Is there an API seal on the jug? Post pictures |
Shalomc:Which vehicle? |
Shalomc:Without in-depth analysis, problem is this is not an apples to apples comparison, but an apples to orange comparison. So I will side with the conclusion reached by Gazzu.zz |
seunoresco:Will revert |
rodbel:Your engine is not prone to sludge attributable to manufacturer defects like the 2AZ-FE Neglect can cause sludge nonetheless e.g, using dino oil and leaving it in the engine for too long. On the strength of the arguments canvassed here https://www.nairaland.com/4491728/best-20w50-engine-oil#67391186 you may decide to switch from 20W50 if that is what you have been using |
Many times engine replacements have been advised but from the vantage point of engine rebuilders - those who truly understand engines inside out, some of the reasons for which engine replacements have been advanced are certainly not good enough reasons to replace engines. Here is an example to buttress my point: https://www.noordeman.com.au/smokey-toyota-2gr-fe-v6-engine-the-simple-solution/ |
I also discussed issues relating to oil choice here https://www.nairaland.com/3842959/need-professional-advice-n-mechanic/2 Makes more sense to me to cross-reference threads than repeat myself non-stop |
Piyke:I am particular about using the proper oil viscosity as recommended by the manufacturer. I am not so particular about conventional or synthetic provided the above is followed. The only reason for recommending synthetic is 1. longer oil change intervals; 2. it does not disintegrate as fast as conventional; 3. in extremes of temperature, it tends to stay stable when conventional would not. That said as long as you do not exceed that OCI, conventional oil of the proper viscosity will do you no harm. Thanks for your story and I do look forward to the full gist. One more thing, even if your engine is an oil consumer, would it not make economic sense to carry more oil and check it more often say every 500 miles or 1000 miles instead of replacing the engine? Many manufacturers have problems with engine consuming oil, so I think this is the course of wisdom, instead of using heavier/thicker oil which does not get consumed as much but can give one other problems? One thing that has not been emphasized as much as it deserves is the importance of keeping engine oil as near to the full mark as possible ( as opposed to overfilling), when your engine oil gets too low, you wear out your engine faster, is that not a good enough reason to make it a point of duty to check oil level often? |
rodbel:2007 Toyota Camry uses the following engines 2AZ-FE; 2AZ-FXE;2GR-FE. Which of these engines does your vehicle have? |
franklin93:I am confused too... How do I help you from afar? What is your background? How good are you with electricals/electronics? How adept are you at using a multimeter? Can you tell me step by step how you measured everything? What was the black probe connected to and the red probe connected to for each of the values displayed above? As well as when you tested the 3 listed fuses. Maybe from the information supplied I will know whether to tell you what to do or request for a chance to do it for you! |
SAAB OEM parts are available and can be arranged, see http://www.autonews.com/article/20180219/RETAIL05/180219881/saab-parts |
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I drew up a plan to return to factory spec oil and it was 10w-40 for about 3 - 4 oil changes, 5w-30 for a similar period and finally I have been using 5w-20 for as long as I can remember now; no shortages out of the ordinary. I use 4.73L (5qts) for 3000 - 4000miles. Where we differ is that I use conventional oil. For me any recommended oil weight with the API sticker is good enough for me. I use STP brand precisely, no smoking. At over 230k miles today it has gone well. NB: My car does not call for synthetic oil. If yours does use it. Regular oil changes is the key.