₦airaland Forum

9jaBlondie:
AutoElectNG is not a trusted professional.

Instead, he relies heavily on internet research to sound knowledgeable. I mean, this guy can screenshot for all of Africa! Manuals, factory documentation, third party documentation, his questions on online forums - you name it, I have emails full of them!

I fell for this and engaged him in June/July 2018 to fix an issue with my CVT (as well as do some other repairs). Stupidly, a large deposit was paid, and parts were purchased as his direction. Yet - he did not fix the issue. Still, he assured me that he would be able to solve the issue. Soon after, he asked for more money - even though it was obvious at this point that he could not fix the issue with the CVT. The last time I saw him was October 2018, where he promised to pay back the deposit (agreed at more than 80k after some deductions). His father was even at this meeting. His father assured me that this money would be paid back in the agreed time. When the agreed time elapsed, he wanted to say he would pay me back - but would not give a deadline!

For more than a year, I have been trying to get my money back. In the meantime, I had to pay someone else to carry out the repairs on the CVT while AutoElectNG gave assurance after assurance that he would be coming into some money, and would be able to pay me back ASAP. Numerous calls, texts, and emails to AutoElectNG have been unanswered since April of this year. I last sent an email on October 4. After getting no response (yet again), I decided enough was enough.

AutoElectNG, I take God beg you - pay me my money back and let's be done with this once and for all. If you can find time to arrange for training and give out internet advice, you can pay back the money you have owed for more than a year.

One year, one month, and one day ago at precisely this same minute, I was dragged to the court of public opinion on Nairaland by the OP.

The OP failed to state the whole story.

The OP has been in possession of my tools of trade since October 4, 2018, and October 9, 2018, respectively.

The OP has ignored 14 emails sent between November 14, 2020, and November 21, 2020, requesting for the release of the same.

This is for the information of the same court of public opinion on nairaland.

In other words, this matter is not yet resolved.

Baba40:
He sold a worked engine for me as tokunbo engine yet insult me like I'm collecting it as credit or free. The engine he sold for me for N220k . What will you say about a "tokunbo" engine that engine oil( the one he recommended and bought) dries up just in less than 1000miles. I poured another 4litre it has short again.

May Gazzuzz generation feel the pain I'm feeling now and the one he made me feel except I got the money through a dubious way too.. He made me cough out almost N400k upon insult and abuse oooo yet the engine he bought and fixed for me is a worked engine.


Very very wicked being... [b]When I complained he asked me to bring the car and he remove the engine and pay me back my money. [/b]Very stupid being indeed. My soul swear for you each time I remember

I will not comment on the condition of the engine, it is your word against his without irrefutable evidence. Please do not read that to mean I am belittling your claims or feelings.

Can you enlighten me on why you did not take up an offer of a refund?

Would that not have put you in a better place than an outright loss would have?

If the problem was the 24 hours, why did you not negotiate a fairer timeframe?

mrsdaniel:
Do you have the bluedriver scan tool for sale ?

No Ma.

Never seen someone mount such a vigorous campaign for an OBD II code reader.

Remember to take classes after you win Free of Charge here https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

So in recognition of the effort, I nominate Sirleke

I also nominate izzou

since the rules state that two nominations are required

Exactly 1 year ago, the request for a refund was processed in favor of the OP.

But OP and her hubby have continued to confiscate my tools, two years and counting.

For this reason, even if the OP considered this matter resolved, the accused did not consider the matter resolved.

CodeTemplar:
Our stupíd people supporting SARS know what obtains in advanced nations. Interrogations are recorded on videos. There are special rooms equipped to the teeth for those. Anything short of these standards in the reform is a huge joke.

Constant drug test for active officers.
Totally open investigative processes with video back ups.
Better welfare packages

These and more are the minimum I expect.

.

PaulH07:
Hello fellas!

I don come with my wahala again, but that's the life of a first timer taking care of this wahala called car.

Well I successfully put my ride back in shape but here are issues I'm now facing:

1. My MIL(check engine) light was previously blinking anytime I drive, but after some mechanical works today, it has stayed put any time I'm driving. I browsed the internet for some info and found out a faulty airflow meter usually causes it. Actually a part of my airflow meter is broken anyway due to the accident, which makes the car make noise like trailer.

Was told an airflow meter goes for about 10k, bear in mind I reside in Taraba state.

2. Anytime I drive, my drive D keeps blinking, even after refilling the transmission oil with 1L of transmission oil, as i saw on the net as well that it's the commonest cause of a blinking D on the dashboard. Wetin una think?

3. Sometimes the car goes off itself while driving yesterday, and was diagnosed today as one of the plugs being faulty. Had the whole 3 of the front plugs changed today and it hasn't gone off itself since then. But there's this low sound it makes while it's on idle, as if it wants to go off, before going back to it's normal sound again. This sounds is worsened anytime I switch on my AC. Make una epp me check am out!

4. Finally the Brake light keeps showing, despite the Brake working perfectly. This is giving me serious concern as the info I got on the net says it means the brake isn't working as it's supposed to. Checked the "master slender" as they called it for the brake oil, and saw the brake oil is reduced. Yet to top it up, but I go still like know weda anything apart from brake oil fit cause am, to be prepared before hand.

Thank ya'll for the comments in my previous post. Abeg make una epp me put mouth for this one too ooo!

Nagode soose!

Spend some time on this thread https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

Understand the concept of OBD II diagnostics, then fixing automotive issues will become more relatable to you

Buying the scanner is a good step, understanding how to use is the next best step, sharing the information it gives you with others who want to help will take you farther than this diagnostics by speculation that you have been practicing so far

You could also get a factory repair manual to complete missing gaps in the picture

Good luck

If you have a Toyota Sienna 2004 - 2010, take the sensible precaution to replace the stock radiator around 140,000 miles (whether or not you have an issue) or risk losing the transmission which is a vastly more expensive fix in time, labour and money.

This is due to corrosion resulting in the comingling of coolant and transmission fluid, transmission contamination and failure.

Toyota isn't perfect after all, all brands have issues, just that some might have more issues than others.

airfresher:
Sir pls can you help me with your number 08033818063

I replied your nairaland notification, it bounced back.

Please send me an email at autoelectng at protonmail dot com

oNj:
I've been excited about converting my Camry to LPG.

My excitement soon waned when I went researching possible problems with LPG conversion.

Not to sound like an alarmist, but here are my findings:

1. You lose about 20 - 25 percent of engine performance. Ok fine, I can deal.

2. Valve Seat Recession: this refers to excessive/accelerated wear of the valve seats that comes from running on LPG. Though all valve seats wear with usage, no matter your fuel type, LPG accelerates the process since "vapourised gas has no lubricating and cooling effects". (www.amrautos.co.uk/index.php/lpg-systems for full article on this).

A way around this is to install "flashlube" on the engine to provide lubrication.
Well, this not only raises the running costs of LPG conversion as against it's main attraction -- economy, it's use in cars that are prone to valve wear often do not prevent this excess wear valve seat wears.

While not all cars suffer this LPG-induced excessive valve seats wear, the list is quite long. (Ref: www.amrautos.co.uk/database_problem_cars.pdf).

My car falls in the list above (Toyota, all models from 1998 is in the list)

I can't deal.


Divergent opinions are welcome on the viability of LPG conversion

Serious research up there.

Well done brother!

omans14:
i drive a Honda civic 2008/2009 but mine gulps fuel like whale. I got it scanned today and the scan result is (oxygen sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1). What should i do because i want to enjoy the car to the fullest. Do you guys suggest i buy new oxygen sensors and fix only or buy the oxygen sensors with a catalytic converter AKA indomie and fix?

Engines run on fuel, air and spark.

Your ECU cannot optimize the mix of fuel and air if you have bad oxygen sensors. So resolve your oxygen sensor heater circuit DTCs and you will be good.

Your problem may not necessarily be new oxygen sensors, it might well be wiring issues if your oxygen sensors are in order.

So fix the wiring issues if present or replace the oxygen sensors if the wiring is intact and you should be able to achieve the designed as fuel economy values.

adanny01:
That's the way to go but how long will the delay be?

Besides, I own a spray gun already which I got locally. It wasn't my first or second choice mainly because I knew before buying that it came with just one nozzle unlike other non locally available brands that could have as much as 4. (See pix below)

Secondly, I just cannot rush to buy another nozzle and risk the fact they are not just one part fits all. The spray gun below comes with a plastic nozzle while mine has a copper nozzle. Another issue is the spool needle design and size.

My nozzle looks like pic 3. But my own nozzle is threaded and screwed to the plastic with a 13mm flat wrench. If I buy this one and cannot remove or install the copper part, I would just have waster more money. This nozzle is for another brand of spray gun (pic 4) but I believe it bears a close resemblance.

I have imported two used ECUs within recently.

I imported the first one circa June and when there was an inexplicable delay with the first shipper, I contacted an alternative shipper and purchased/forwarded a second identical ECU nearly a month later. Both arrived Nigeria within 7 days of each other. From start to the end of the both shipments, everything was concluded inside of 2 months.

Why don't you source for the correct nozzle sizes from overseas specifically the US of A?

dljbd1:
Thank you for your prompt response.

I serviced it last on 24th July and this included complete oil change. I also fixed some leakages which caused my gear oil to short and it has not been short since then (I ensured I checked it every two days). This issue started about a month or 2 to servicing it in July and I thought it would solve it but it didn't. But I would check it again today and tomorrow and give feedback on it.

Concerning the other critical sensors you mentioned, please I want to fix them immediately but I don't think my mech would understand all these. He is more mechanically inclined. I wouldn't mind if you guide me through.

This has nothing to do with your transmission(gear) and everything to go with your engine.

Please check your engine oil level and not your transmission oil level.

VTECH/VVT depends on oil, clean oil, sufficient oil, oil of the correct viscosity. when either or all conditions are non-existent problems begin to surface. Assuming of course, that the case of the problem is not electrical but mechanical/hydraulic.

Servicing? What did you service?

About your request for extended support, send me a DM

DonDemu:
Is it going to be a hands-on training?

Yes

dljbd1:
@AutoElectNG

Good day
Please I need your opinion on a problem I'm currently facing with my EOD. So I notice when I drive and I slow down (maybe in traffic) and it returns to first gear, it revs so high before it shifts to 2nd gear. And while it shifts it jerks. After gear 2 it would not go into any other gear again. While moving I put it into neutral and press acceleration but it did not rev past 3000rpm. It just jerks on 3000rpm. I parked and switched off the car and started it up again then revved and it was now normal.
At times it would repeat itself again and at times it would be normal for the rest of the day. On an average it does this 3 times a day.

It just started this like 2 months ago.

I purchased a Bluetooth ODB2 to check the car and got the following codes:

My mech has checked the solenoids and cleaned it but its still same. He has picked it up to check it again but now I am being told its my gear that needs replacement.

Please can you have some time to help check it or refer me to someone who can.

Thanks in advance.

When last did you do an oil change?
When last did you check the oil level?

How about you do both? And if the oil is low, how about using this opportunity to do an oil change?

Afterwards religiously check the oil level, it seems it has gone too low, and if it, it can easily set both codes. If it has and you either replace or top up the oil, that will eliminate P1009 and P2646.

If indeed you have a problem with the coolant temperature circuit as your DTC readout seems to indicate, if I were in your shoes I would fix that ASAP. The ECT sensor is the master sensor, all other sensors get their bearings from the ECUs response to its readings.

The second master sensor is the Oxygen sensor. I would also attend to that, but after sorting out the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor

dcole73:
Please, any such training going on right now;

Lagos.

No

I can relate.

Been there, done that.

Sharing it after the fact is refreshingly humble.

dcole73:
Great thread, AutoE.lectNG.

Please do you give training on SRS module reprogramming and ECU programming?

Or do you know a place that does these?

Thanks

Thanks for reaching out.

Q1. Currently NO.
Q2. NO.

kingreign:
I actually tried the Nairaland mail.

I didn't get any notification that is why said I maybe there was a network glitch

kingreign:
You got mail.

Network glitch?

'cause I never saw anything

kingreign:
I'd be glad to team up with you chief, same with le.jeun3
I sight thee auto.logic, Autoe.lectNG.

Great job brother.

See you around sometime.

radautoworks:
Don't know the fluid specs for your car? Use our online tool and don't let a kazeem tell you otherwise again.


Visit www.weblink.carquest.com

username cust498
password Password1

Lovely.

GAZZUZZ:


GzuzMonk 1

w201-I6. 2

GAZZUZZ. 2

G-MECH. 3


Kindly keep the votes coming...

Voting ends Monday morning when i submit docs for processing.


Alt ACC's will be identified, all lecturers take note

There is only 1 Gaz.zuzz

There is at least one other company registered overseas as G-Mech which is into automotive repairs

You could say this is just a number plate but marketing and branding professionals will tell you that branding consistency offline and online is very important

So my vote goes for GAZZUZZ.

9icetoo:
Like play like play, this "Google mechanic" has become a thing.
The Lord truly works in mysterious ways.

Who was first accused of being a google mechanic on nairaland?

I know I was accused last October.

Any ideas?

Gazzuz.z, you are doing well.

I love vehicle restoration projects

There is a scientific relationship between tire pressure and speed and tire pressure and load carrying capacity.

The tire pressure recommended by the manufacturer is for normal cruising speeds, if you max out the speedo, the recommended tire pressure is no longer adequate.

There is a formula for it: +6miles/h =Increase your pressure by 1.5psi but never exceed the maximum pressure rating on the tire sidewall

The tire pressure recommended by the manufacturer does not account for overloading and maxing out the speedo at the same time

There is a formula for it: +6miles/h = -5% load capacity

So let's be properly guided

Piyke:
Next, I activated the tyre sensors and got the readings below.

The correct pressures for this car are:
Front - 30psi
Rear - 35psi

A while ago, I recall making a post that whenever I travel, I make a pit stop every 100 or 200 miles and do a tire pressure gauge, I either increase or deflate depending on the results, since instituting this program I have never suffered a blowout.

This is especially important if you intend to run the vehicle at sustained high speeds.

llade:
Thanks all and since my Pathy had roared back to life, what must I do to keep it in shape if I want to use it for long journeys like Abuja - Lagos frequently.

Sorry for all the trouble you had to go through.

Pathfinders are generally considered indestructible.

Get those sensors that failed, have a supply of them, test to be sure they are perfect while you are at your base and keep them on your person anytime you travel.

The likelihood of the engine failing is slim, but the likelihood of those sensors stopping your journey like they did a while ago is very strong.

Apart from that if you keep up with maintenance, you should be able to travel at short notice without the need for an extended session with a technician.

Gazzuzz has been good to me.

He made one very public display of affection/kindness towards me when someone wanted to bring me down on these streets.

He privately offered to do another that I resisted. Someday he will come to appreciate why I said no to the second offer.

But I deeply appreciated both offers.

xfay:
Electrical Engineer � +avid automech enthusiast

Like what I saw.

Would like to see more of projects like yours, such as rusEfi, megasquirt, speeduino here as well

xfay:
...but boy was I unprepared for the headache called Bosch continuous injection system...

I learnt fast the in and out then came to the realization that it was a loosing battle, parts were scarce and often in bad state.

Option 1 junk the motor buy a c class m111 4 cylinder engine
And convert.

Option 2 convert the m103 6 cylinder to EFI

I chose option 2 because it's harder....really its because I already have one( lowest budget possible), and the need to experiment ....and I love the howl of the 6 when revved hard!!!!

After so much research, head scratching, parts scrouging


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2mSOEUshU0

Maximum respect for doing the sort of thing that is so hard to see on these streets.

Electrical engineer by any chance or avid enthusiast?

llade:
Am scared oh cos the one so called electrician has used omo and water to clean the brain box saying that is how it can be cleaned now when scanned the brain box does not communicate with the car again.

Electronics have 3 mortal enemies:

1. Water

2. Dust

3. Heat

You are in the market for a new ECU and very sadly so.