AutoElectNG's Posts
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Kjnwancaro:Which volume control doesn't work - the one on the radio or the one on the steering? Seems like we are talking about two sets of volume controls here? When something works intermittently, then the culprit tends to be bad contacts - sometimes it will make contact, at other times it will not make contact. It could be at the volume knob, it could be the wiring - one needs to have a wiring diagram handy and test equipment and work through the wiring around this sub-system of the car to eliminate the wiring as the problem. If the wiring checks out, then sad to say the problem has to be the radio unit - it could be a crack somewhere in the PCB or a failed (cold solder joint) That seems more likely to be your issue here, since it works sometimes and doesn't work at other times. And by the way, I have not checked the TSB so I cannot say if it applies to your case or not, I just made a note of it for you in case you want this matter further investigated! |
Passenger Comfort Electronics: These include: Automatic climate control Electronic seat adjustment with memory Automatic wipers Automatic headlamps - adjusts beam automatically Automatic cooling - temperature adjustment Same source: Wikipedia |
Kjnwancaro:Got some spare time, so I did some more work on your case and i discovered that your manufacturer issued a Technical Service Bulletin on this matter. It was entitled: NO SOUND FROM SPEAKERS If your mechanic (technician) did not tell you about it, or if he did not reference it while attempting a repair to at least rule out that it does not apply to your specific vehicle, I would seriously question his competence! Here are the details: 2004 Honda Accord Equipment Service Bulletin 194741 Action Number: 10015298 Service Bulletin Number: 194741 Report Date: Feb 16, 2005 |
elbukaze:I assume that you mean that it doesn't accept CDs and it does not give back CDs, right? Do you have the Radio Code? Write it down somewhere. Then remove the fuse that controls the radio and put it back. If the CD still don't work, then disconnect the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes and reconnect. Or if you prefer, this is a faster method, disconnect both the positive and negative battery cable heads and touch them together for about 5 to 10 seconds, it accomplish the same effect as the former method - its like telling the computer forget everything you knew before and learn afresh. This reset procedure may allow it to work again. If that doesn't work, you can also try engaging the eject button (by holding it for a while) until you hear it beep and hopefully eject CDs in the unit. If this don't work then seriously consider the 5 alternatives below because it would appear your CD changer has bit the dust or is about to! If either method of rebooting the ECU fails to yield positive results, then you have five options: 1. Send it to a dedicated factory radio repair shop 2. Purchase a second hand unit (with the possibility it will malfunction in the future) 3. Purchase a brand new unit (but this is old technology which will be so costly and will most like fail again even if it is in the far future) 4. Install an aftermarket head unit (might not be as aesthetic as the factory install) 5. Use the auxiliary adapter to bypass the factory stereo (keep the factory story in place but install a third party radio in the compartment next to your gear selector) The unit is now at least over 10 years 2016 - 2005 = 11 years. They were not built to last forever. Problem is how to find a dedicated factory radio repair shop who will replace the defective parts in the unit with new and return it to perfect working condition. Next to impossible in Nigeria! A fit and proper fix might not make economic sense. The other problem is to find a perfectly functional second hand unit, I suggest you get nothing less than 2 weeks warranty with the option to replace with another unit if found faulty, but 30 days would be ideal, even if you have to pay a bit more than the normal price to pay for this level of peace of mind, it will be a worthy investment. I have a very strong hunch that the CD changer is on its last days - given its age, the number of moving parts, its complexity and the aging electronics. If i were in your shoes, I think I would go for either 4 or 5! |
Driver Assistance Electronics These include: Lane assist system Speed assist system Blind spot detection Park assist system Adaptive cruise control system Source remains unchanged |
Kjnwancaro:Let me clarify my response some more: These are your options as to the cause of the problem: 1. You could have a bad radio ( the radio unit is known to go bad, the unit is over 10 years by the way 2016 - 2004!) in which case you will need a new unit 2. You could have bad wiring ( by bad wiring I mean, one or more of the wires between the radio unit and/or the amplifier and/or the speakers could have gone bad - it could be the wires that send power to the unit or the wires that ground the unit ( to have a complete circuit you need both power and ground)! If one or more of the speakers wires are touching the frame of the car, we call that grounding out. If they are cut somewhere, we call that an open circuit.And given the way your car audio circuit is designed, if one of the speakers grounds out, all the other speakers will not work! So the volume knob can appear to be in order but you will hear no sound. 3. You could have a good radio but a bad volume knob 4. a blown speaker (so we need to check the impedance) Remedies to your problem include but are not limited to: checking that all the fuses that control the radio or related circuits are in order ( so you need a wiring diagram) checking that the problem is not with the radio checking that the problem is not with the wiring - test the speakers wires ( so you need a wiring diagram), the amplifier wiring disconnecting and reconnecting the speakers checking that you do not have a blown speaker The professional way to fix complex electronic circuitry is to begin with verifying the customer complaint, then moving on to consulting a wiring diagram and not merely a visual inspection without more. So like I said before, all the above is blind diagnosis. For absolutely accurate and on the mark diagnosis, the vehicle has to be brought in and the technician needs to consult the wiring diagram, that way you can even understand where the problem might be without having to tear down anything! And maybe also manufacturer and third-party repair databases. Only using the vehicle wiring diagram accompanied with a physical inspection will pinpoint the exact fault so it can be rectified, these are just pointers to guide you, and not conclusive diagnosis! Let me know if I have been useful to you! |
Passive Electronics These systems are always ready to act when there is a collision in progress or to prevent it when it senses a dangerous situation: Air bags Hill descent control Emergency brake assist system Same source as the previous |
Kjnwancaro:To do a thorough job, it would be necessary to consult the wiring diagrams for the vehicle. is the system stock or modified? There may be a power or ground (short to ground) problem somewhere But blind diagnosis would suggest the following: Have you checked the fuse that controls the radio? You can test if it works with a test light or a DMM or by removing it (but you must have the radio code) If the fuse is good but it does not sound, then you may need to check the speakers (does the impedance check out), maybe there is a shorted speaker or blown speaker or the amplifier may be shorted and that isn't allowing power to go to the volume knob. Hope this helps! |
elbukaze:Single Disk or 6 Disc Changer OEM or Aftermarket? What have you done so far that hasn't worked? Once you answer, I'll suggest next steps |
Passive Safety Electronics These systems are always ready to act when there is a collision in progress or to prevent it when it senses a dangerous situation: Air bags Hill descent control Emergency brake assist system Same source as previously acknowledged |
Chassis Electronics: The chassis system has lot of sub-systems which monitor various parameters and are actively controlled: ABS - Anti-lock Braking System TCS – Traction Control System EBD – Electronic Brake Distribution ESP – Electronic Stability Program Same source as before |
And from the same source, on Transmission Electronics: These control the transmission system, mainly the shifting of the gears for better shift comfort and to lower torque interrupt while shifting. Automatic transmissions use controls for their operation, and also many semi-automatic transmissions having a fully automatic clutch or a semi-auto clutch (declutching only). The engine control unit and the transmission control exchange messages, sensor signals and control signals for their operation. |
So what is Engine Electronics: Once more, we turn to Wikipedia: One of the most demanding electronic parts of an automobile is the engine control unit. Engine controls demand one of the highest real time deadlines, as the engine itself is a very fast and complex part of the automobile. Of all the electronics in any car the computing power of the engine control unit is the highest, typically a 32-bit processor. It controls such things as: In a diesel engine: Fuel injection rate Emission control, NOx control Regeneration of oxidation catalytic converter Turbocharger control Cooling system control Throttle control In a gasoline engine: Lambda control OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) Cooling system control Ignition system control Lubrication system control (only a few have electronic control) Fuel injection rate control Throttle control Many more engine parameters are actively monitored and controlled in real-time. There are about 20 to 50 that measure pressure, temperature, flow, engine speed, oxygen level and NOx level plus other parameters at different points within the engine. All these sensor signals are sent to the ECU, which has the logic circuits to do the actual controlling. The ECU output is connected to different actuators for the throttle valve, EGR valve, rack (in VGTs), fuel injector (using a pulse-width modulated signal), dosing injector and more. There are about 20 to 30 actuators in all. |
What does the OP mean by automotive electricity and electronics systems? Let Wikipedia help: Automotive electronics are any electrically-generated systems used in road vehicles, such as: carputers, telematics, in-car entertainment systems, etc.. Automotive electronics originated from the need to control engines. The first electronic pieces were used to control engine functions and were referred to as engine control units (ECU). As electronic controls began to be used for more automotive applications, the acronym ECU took on the more general meaning of "electronic control unit", and then specific ECU's were developed. Now, ECU's are modular. Two types include engine control modules (ECM) or transmission control modules (TCM). A modern car may have up to 100 ECU's and a commercial vehicle up to 40. Automotive electronics or automotive embedded systems are distributed systems, and according to different domains in the automotive field, they can be classified into: Engine electronics Transmission electronics Chassis electronics Active safety Driver assistance Passenger comfort Entertainment systems Issues on any of the above should be dropped here, let's see how we can help you, as time and other resource constraints permit |
Does you vehicle have any electrical or electronic faults? Post your queries here and we will do our best to answer! NOTE: ONLY ELECTRICAL OR ELECTRONIC FAULTS WILL BE RESPONDED TO BY THE OP! |