₦airaland Forum

Understand your car!

This link can help a great deal https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

Get a Factory Service Manual, even if you will not fix your car, if you read it carefully and understand the technology, you will be able to tell clowns apart from geeks

You should not worship mechanics, you should be able to discuss intelligently with them. You should not just nod like a frog when they talk to you, powerless to ask questions, accepting their version of the story without questioning!

Only access to a Factory service manual and careful study of the same will do that.

And don't forget, technology is racing forward unstoppably.

If you are buying vehicles with modern technology, and your mechanics are not being updated on modern technology like their counterparts worldwide are, the least you can do yourself is buy your own copy of the Factory Service Manual for your modern ride and get them to use their old school experience and your new school instructions to fix your ride to your satisfaction.

How will you benefit from purchasing your own copy of a factory service manual? Here is what one Lexus owner had to say:

Yes, I have service manuals for all 3 of our vehicles, two of which are Lexus. My feeling is that you don’t have to be a mechanic to benefit considerably from the information. By knowing how the vehicle is constructed, the component names and of course the procedures to diagnose and repair various systems you’re in a better position to work with your service provider. And if you decide to do the work yourself you have the instructions to help you do the job the way the manufacturer specifies.

Generally automotive service manual content is addressed to service technicians who are proficient with the tools of the trade. And as you might expect you will probably need to come up to speed on some manufacturer-specific acronyms and jargon before you will get the most from them. Fortunately Toyota service manuals are organized similarly so that if you become familiar with one the learning curve is easier for the next.

A way to determine if manuals would be a good investment for you is to go to the Toyota technical information site: http://www.techinfo.toyota.com and buy 2-day standard access to service publications for $15.

Source: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-2nd-gen-2004-2009/571862-08-rx350-service-manuals.html

2007 lexus rx350 P0455- evaporative emissin system leak detected(large leak)…

P0455 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
4 = Emission Control
55 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Gross Leak)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0441- evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow…

P0441 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
4 = Emission Control
41 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0356- ignition coil "F" primary/secondary circuit…

P0356 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
56 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Ignition Coil “B” Primary / Secondary Circuit

The P0356 code means that Cylinder #6 might have issues with its ignition coil (Note: F=6)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0354- ignition coil " " primary/secondary circuit…

P0354 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
54 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Ignition Coil “B” Primary / Secondary Circuit

The P0354 code means that Cylinder #4 might have issues with its ignition coil (Note: D=4)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0352- ignition coil "B" primary/secondary circuit…

P0352 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
52 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Ignition Coil “B” Primary / Secondary Circuit

The P0352 code means that Cylinder #2 might have issues with its ignition coil (Note: B=2)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected…


P0303 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
03 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Cylinder #3 Misfire Detected

The P0303 code means that your engine is misfiring and the PCM/ECU is able to localize the fault to a particular cylinder that is Cylinder #3.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected…

P0301 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
01 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected

The P0301 code means that your engine is misfiring and the PCM/ECU is able to localize the fault to a particular cylinder that is Cylinder #1.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0300- random/multiple cylinder misfire detected…

P0300 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
00 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

The P0300 code means that your engine is misfiring but the PCM/ECU is unable to localize the fault to a particular cylinder or to some specific cylinders.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0025- "B" camshaft position- Timing over slow …

P0025 MEANS

P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
0 = SAE Reserved
25 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:P0025: Camshaft Position “B” – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0021- "A" camshaft position- Timing over- Advanced or system performance …

P0021 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
0 = SAE Reserved
21 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:“A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)

In other words, Camshaft Position "B" - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)

OBD2 Code P0021 Lexus definition by http://www.carobdcodes.com/

A code P0021 Lexus definition:the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car’s PCM (powertrain control module, also called an ECM). That consists of a few different components but the P0021 Lexus DTC specifically definition:the camshaft (cam) timing. In this case, if the cam timing is above a set limit (over-advanced), the engine light will be illluminated and the code will be set. The “A” camshaft is either the intake, left, or front camshaft. A P0021 Lexus engine code is basically the same as a P0011 Lexus code, except this is for Bank 2, not Bank 1.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0019- same as P0016 …

P0019 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
0 = SAE Reserved
19 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/ which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:CRANKSHAFT POSITION -CAMSHAFT POSITION POSITION CORRECTION (BANK 2 SENSOR B)

In other words, Crankshaft/Camshaft Timing Misalignment

OBD2 Code P0016 Lexus definition according to http://www.carobdcodes.com:

The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) and Camshaft position sensor (CMP) work in harmony to control the spark/fuel delivery and timing. They both consist of a reluctor, or tone, ring which passes over a magnetic sensor, which generates a voltage, indicating position. The crankshaft sensor is part of the primary ignition system and functions as the “trigger”. It detects the position of the crankshaft relays that information on to the PCM or the ignition module (depending on the vehicle) to control spark timing. The Camshaft position sensor detects the position of the camshafts and relays the information to the PCM. The PCM uses the CMP signal to identify the beginning of the injector sequence. What ties these two shafts and their sensors together is the timing belt or chain. The cam and crank should be precisely timed together. If the PCM detects that the Crank and Cam signals are out of time by a specific number of degrees, this P0016 Lexus code will set.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0016- crankshaft position- camshaft position correlation ...

P0016 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
0 = SAE Reserved
16 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/ which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:CRANKSHAFT POSITION -CAMSHAFT POSITION POSITION CORRECTION (BANK 1 SENSOR A)

In other words, Crankshaft/Camshaft Timing Misalignment

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

This vehicle's owner stopped by for an expert opinion on the OBD II codes he retrieved from his vehicle's PCM/ECU. Let's take a lot at the vehicle before taking a look at the codes thrown

2007 Lexus RX350 Edmund's review

The Lexus RX series has long been the company's best-selling vehicle. Since its debut in '99 as the RX 300, this midsize luxury crossover SUV has won over buyers with its easy-to-drive nature, plush cabin, virtually silent and vibration-free powertrain and very high build quality. And thanks to above-average reliability and quality dealer service, the RX has provided its owners with about as stress-free an experience as one could hope for. A full redesign in 2004 brought with it a bigger 3.3-liter V6 (which provided impetus for the RX 300-to-RX 330 name change) and a radically different body design housing an even roomier and more luxurious cabin than before.

For the 2007 Lexus RX 350, as the name implies, there is a larger, more powerful engine fitted to this midsize SUV. Displacing 3.5 liters and cranking out 270 horsepower and 251 pound-feet of torque, the new engine's output represents increases over last year's RX 330 of 47 hp and 13 lb-ft, respectively. Other than the new engine and additional sound insulation to make the quiet cabin even more hushed, the RX continues as before. This means that the RX's elevated seating position, forgiving ride and smooth drivetrain are still there, only with added performance.

While the RX has always been a comfy and peppy SUV, the latest version considerably ups the ante in terms of both luxury and performance. The 2007 Lexus RX 350 serves as an excellent example of what a luxury crossover utility should be. With its spacious cabin, many useful features and top-notch build quality, the RX remains a strong choice in this very competitive market segment.

Source: https://www.edmunds.com/lexus/rx-350/2007/review/

For obtain more angles to the story, also check out https://www.kbb.com/lexus/rx/2007/

In what ways is OBD II a vast improvement over OBD I? aka Why might your mechanic refuse to repair pre-OBD II VEHICLES?

Content loading ....

tunde783:
Weldone sir, i have a 2007 lexus rx350 , i scanned it with an obd2 scanner, find below the following codes i got and pls let me know the solution to the problem.

P0300- random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0016- crankshaft position- camshaft position correlation
P0019- same as P0016
P0021- "A" camshaft position- Timing over- Advanced or system performance
P0025- "B" camshaft position- Timing over retarded
P0352- ignition coil "B" primary/secondary circuit
P0354- ignition coil "" primary/secondary circuit
P0356- ignition coil "F" primary/secondary circuit
P0441- evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow
P0455- evaporative emissin system leak detected(large leak)

please help and thanks

Did you see our response above?

tunde783:
Weldone sir, i have a 2007 lexus rx350 , i scanned it with an obd2 scanner, find below the following codes i got and pls let me know the solution to the problem.

P0300- random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0016- crankshaft position- camshaft position correlation
P0019- same as P0016
P0021- "A" camshaft position- Timing over- Advanced or system performance
P0025- "B" camshaft position- Timing over retarded
P0352- ignition coil "B" primary/secondary circuit
P0354- ignition coil "" primary/secondary circuit
P0356- ignition coil "F" primary/secondary circuit
P0441- evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow
P0455- evaporative emissin system leak detected(large leak)

please help and thanks

Please provide comprehensive information so we can analyze the subject objectively instead of subjectively.



Please provide the following:

Did you buy this vehicle brand new or is it new to you?

What is it's mileage?

Do you know its full service history? Tell us everything you know. What went wrong? How did it go wrong?

How long have you had this/these problem(s)?

Was any repair made before you had this problem?

Have you attempted any repairs so far? If yes, what exactly has been done to the vehicle?

What is the current status of the MIL
1. Do you have no driveability complaint along with the MIL? (Do you have any drivability issues?)
2. Do you have driveability complaint(s) along with the MIL? If yes, kindly explain. (Or is the MIL on but no drivability issues/complaints? )

Have you ever erased the DTC(s)? Did it/they come back after that?


Freeze Frame Data required includes:
Fuel System Status (whether Open Loop or Closed Loop)
Calculated Load in Percentage
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 in Percentage
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Engine Speed in RPM
Vehicle Speed in MPH or km/h
Engine Coolant Temperature in degrees
If a single-cylinder misfire is detected, indicate cylinder(s)

Current Parameter Display Information required includes:


Fuel System Status (whether Open Loop or Closed Loop)
Calculated Load in Percentage
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 in Percentage
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Engine Speed in RPM
Vehicle Speed in MPH or km/h
Engine Coolant Temperature in degrees

Once we have your feedback, we will roll her into the service bay!

olaboy1:
I so much like how you analyze things for a layman to understand. So to be on the same page with you, I don't have to tear open the timing chain to know it's in a good condition as that's the job of the CMP sensor?
If decision tree 1 and 2 are met and everything is fine electrically from sensor to wire harness with regards to FSM, then is it safe to say the timing chain is conclusively in a good condition?

Thanks for the compliments.

We are happy for you that you have come to the realization that there is no need to tear open the engine cover to access the timing chain at this time.

We were sad for you, but there was little we could do for you, it is afterall your car!

If the wiring checks out between the sensor and the PCM/ECU,
THEN
the next thing to do is to check if the sensor checks out,
IF
the sensor does not check out,
THEN
replace the sensor with the factory recommended part no from a reputable parts supplier!

We do not recommend aftermarket chinese CMP sensors since they are of unreliable quality and can fail without warning!

ONLY IF
after replacing the sensor and things are still not in ok,
IN THAT
after doing the one trip detection logic
AND
the two trip detection logic the code comes back,
THEN AND ONLY THEN
will you need to tear down the engine to work on the timing chain.

olaboy1:
The white smoke is very little and disappears when the engine is warmed up. If I have an engine problem I will know when I rev the engine. I have reved the engine at around 5000 RPM and it sounded very perfect.

OK

The car is now starting at much less time but if you tap on the throttle it idles poorly for 3-5 seconds (RPM fluctuates), and then it goes back to normal. I've forgotten exactly what fault is simulated in a video I watched where the engine RPM fluctuated by tapping of the throttle sharply.

Noted. Have you thought about the fact that there could be a correlation between the the poor idling and the CMP sensor?

I tried to electrically check the CMP sensor today but it was difficult to get to without taking some vehicle parts out, and my mechanic and I I've agreed to start with timing chain on Monday because I am traveling and will be back on Sunday evening.

Good to know!

Once we get into timing chain job, I will do a comprehensive full service of the engine by following the FASTEC module
Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing ignition crankshaft and camshaft, exhaust and compression.
I shall also ask him to clean the throttle body, check IAC, check EGR valve and PCV and replace if necessary, check the intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold and head gasket.

Noted.

What other things do I need to consider for a full service, engine oil and filter have been changed.

have you checked the FSM? It usually contains such information specific to the ride in question?

There are two radiator fans in the car, I guess one is for the AC and the other for radiator cooling, after keeping the car running for thirty minutes both fans never worked, is this something to be worried about or they will only work when on motion, because this car does not have a dashboard display for engine temperature.

Once again you need a scan tool, so you can monitor what happens when the temperature hits 185 degrees up to 220/250 degrees?
What happens if you turn on the AC? Do both fans engage then?
Don't calculate based on time, calculate based on engine coolant temperature as reported by the scan tool!
Can we see a picture of this dasboard that does not have a temperature display?

dljbd1:
Hi guys,

please where can we purchase the scanner?

Generate a shopping list of features based on the recommendations on this thread.

Then we can take it from there...

olaboy1:
This video below also buttress my inner suspicion about the timing chain. Although I haven't diagnosed a timing chain problem conclusively for my car, but the first time I got the inspection paper about those DTC's, I said to myself maybe the timing chain needs adjustments or replacement and probably some pulley problems also. Since I'm not sure if the car has been given full service according to manufacturer's specification and I read a comment that poor servicing, wrong oil or spark plugs will make the VVT actuator to get clogged with junk and locks in place, hence why I think the P0340 like you said is the most critical point of call.

Noted!

I will look into the P0340, but I wanted to ask what you think about the white smoke from the exhaust, isn't that a give away of a failing CAT and O2 sensors. I understand we need to start from P0340 and just wanted a second and third opinion. Changing a CAT or sensors without fixing a timing problem is just plain ignorance.
http://www.bobsmuffler.com/reasons_for_a_converter_failure.htm

Is it thick white smoke? If yes, then, you might have an engine problem on your hands. By engine problem is meant something along the lines of:
1.A bad cylinder head
2.A bad head gasket
3.A cracked engine block
with the root cause being an overheated engine
You might like to take a look at this link http://procarmechanics.com/types-of-smoke-from-your-car-tailpipe-what-it-indicates/

My FSM did not say anything about voltage measurements for the CMP sensor and wire harness coming from the ECU, the check areas listed are only resistance and continuity, and how do I check for resistance at hot temperature of 50 degrees Celsius - 100 degrees Celsius


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLU3nQNRaO4

Actually it did.

We took a second look at the FSM.

One of the most important tools in diagnosing a modern vehicle is a Digital Multimeter. You can tell the condition of a circuit with a resistance test or a voltage drop test. You have been provided resistance tests that can tell if the wiring is intact or it has been compromised, whether the compromise is a lack of signals from the PCM/ECU getting to the sensor (open) or whether the problem is that the signals have gone where they were not intended to go (short).

Let us work you through the details provided by the FSM once more.

Please note, according to m_05_0129, how does the PCM know that it should set a P0340 code?

When it notices either of two things:

1. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM during cranking - It uses a two trip detection logic to determine this

2. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM at engine speed of 600 RPM or more. It uses a one trip detection logic to determine this

It also goes ahead to say that the trouble areas to consider (in that order) are:

1. Open or short in camshaft position sensor circuit - this is an electrical test. And you need to calculate the resistance to determine this

2. Camshaft Position Sensor - this is an electrical test. And you need to compare the resistance of the sensor in your car with the resistance as it should be per factory specifications

It is only and only if the two trouble areas above do not resolve the problem that you should go to the third

3. Camshaft timing pulley - this is a mechanical test

4. Jumped tooth of timing chain - this is a mechanical test

5. ECM replacement - this is an electrical issue.

Please resolve P0340 using the above decision tree and in consultation with the steps provided in m_05_0129.

Do not forget the hint: DTC P0340 indicates a malfunction related to the CMP sensor + circuit (the wire harness between the ECM and CMP sensor, and the CMP sensor itself)

The first test tells the condition of the sensor electrically

The second test tells the condition of the wiring between the sensor wiring harness and the PCM/ECU. It does not have to be a voltage test before it can tell the condition of the wiring.

The third and forth tests are mechanical

olaboy1:
Good morning AutoElectNG and thanks for your help regards the BOT ban.

Welcome

From my car FSM a kick starter is not part of the failing components for DTC P0340
The OBD self test not performed was written at the end of the report and P0340/sensor DTC's where at the top, so that means the OBD2 test was able to pick DTC P0340. So OBD2 monitor for P0340 did run and all this was before the mechanic started working on it.

We would be more certain this was case, if the status of all the monitors was provided. Sadly the FSM is silent on its Detection logic for this DTC. For more information on Toyota Drive Cycles, see http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/support/Knowledgebase/Article/View/42/7/toyotalexus-obd-ii-drive-cycles

-----------------------
MODIFIED BELOW
------------------------
The FSM does indeed provide its detection logic for this DTC. Question is, when you study the information provided by the 133rd post on this thread, can you really say that the monitor tests for the one trip and two trip detection logic was actually run by the PCM/ECU? That is a must to come to the above conclusion without fear of contradiction.

Here is the monitor enabling criteria:


1. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM during cranking - It uses a two trip detection logic to determine this

2. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM at engine speed of 600 RPM or more. It uses a one trip detection logic to determine this

Toyota FSM on DTC P0340 confirms everything I wrote about timing chain been one of the failing components associated with CMP sensor.
Wish I had my own garage, I would have opened that cover to do a visual inspection of my timing chain. Timing chain was the first thing I told the mechanics about to check before oxygen sensors/AF sensors, because that's like the liver of the engine and can cause misfire and total engine failure on motion. I need to look some more DIY YouTube videos on timing chain and see if I can get dirty assuming my mechanic insist on me buying sensors.

Common signs of a faulty timing chain include engine misfires, metal shavings found in the oil, and rattling sounds from the engine while idling. Remember I wrote about some rattling noise in front of the engine when idling.

So you agree with us that P0340 was a good place to start! And that you hints about the timing chain were not so far off the mark.

fuel tank cover was one of the failing components I read about AF sensor codes, and when I tried to put fuel in the car the fuel pressure whilst I opened the tank cover was so much that it felt like it was going to pop the cap out of my hand, so I am going to first go ahead and change the fuel cap. See the video below


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX62e4qLL9Y

I think to eliminate any hidden problems, let's start with FSM fix for P0340, it's not a big deal. I am going to do the electrical check of the CMP sensor and wire harness myself and then ask the mechanic to check timing chain and camshaft. Once I am satisfied with that we move on to next step.

The mechanic explained that if it was a vacuum leak, after clearing the codes they should go away and maybe come back after 2-3trips that you explained in your latest post, and that was how he knew it was a permanent component failure. Also note when I start the car and it's cold I see white exhaust fumes from the tail of the exhaust that looks like NOx.

Sure you agree that nothing beats factory service data in diagnosis.

Anything else is trial and error.

Bolded is noted!

olaboy1:
Many say a CAT can go bad without a DTC, that's why you have many internet threads of how do I know my CAT is bad

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/45097-can-a-catalytic-converter-clog-up-without-codes

True. DTCs may not be set all the time!

What role do trips play in OBD II equipped vehicles? Why should you care about trips as defined by OBD II?

For some faults, it takes just one trip to turn on the MIL aka one trip Monitors.

For other faults, it takes two trips to turn on the MIL aka two trip monitors.

If after the DTC is set, the vehicle completes three consecutive good trips without failing the tests/experiments set by the monitor, the PCM/ECU will automatically turn off the MIL, but will not erase the DTC and Freeze Frame from its memory.

For Fuel-type and Misfire-type faults, if a fault is detected is detected in the course of one trip, the PCM/ECU will look out for the same fault during the following 80 trips, and if it appears, it will turn on the MIL.

If the vehicle completes 40 warm up cycles (for emission DTCs) without the same fault turning up, then the PCM/ECU will erase both the DTC and the Freeze Frame from its memory

If the vehicle completes 80 warm up cycles (for fuel trim or misfire-type DTCs) without the same fault turning up, then the PCM/ECU will erase both the DTC and the Freeze Frame from its memory

As soon as the MIL comes on, the PCM automatically opens a diary in which it records how many trips are completed after the fault that tripped on the MIL. It uses the entries so recorded to determine if and when to turn off the MIL or to keep it on.

So then, a lot of the decisions made by the PCM/ECU depends on trips and the outcomes of those trips!

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Let's troubleshoot

DTC P1135, P1155, P0141 AND P0161 in that order

For P1135 and P1155, see m_05_0098

For P0141, see
m_05_0332
m_05_0277
m_05_0029
m_05_0092
m_05_0007
m_05_0018
m_05_0057

For P0161, see
m_05_0007
m_05_0018
m_05_0057

If you are done going through all of that, then we can begin taking a closer look at what might be wrong with your ride

olaboy1:
Good morning everyone.
Just a quick update on P0340, I saw a video where a guy said if you have kick starter problem then you can also get a P0340 code.
My car had a kick starter problem and when it was changed the P0340 disappeared.
Why is kick starter not listed as one of the problems on obd-codes.com

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0340


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38N47i84obI

Thank you

Now that you got the FSM. How would you answer this question?

olaboy1:
Very clear and impactful analysis. This is always the problem with convergence system, they are too intricate and cumbersome.

If you break it down into parts, it becomes easier to tackle

I have seen some YouTube videos and yes you are right a proper OBD2 professional scanner would point one directly to the faulty areas.
I have educated myself more using the link below, and you could see clearly that there are more suspect parts to check when the DTC's are related to the upstream A/F sensors than when all the DTC's are coming from both downstream sensors.. of course a digital multimeter would only give a rough accessment of what's happening, whilst the OBD2 scanner would show precisely a live information of the sensors behavior when the car is running. My question is how do I narrow down my problem in what you referred to as the 'SYSTEM', since the upstream sensors are the ones directly related to the overall systemic function of the engine, and they are NOT giving me any DTC's, except they have suddenly become insensitive and compromise their check duties. Will the following (vacuum leak, intake manifold gasket problem, IAC, EGR etc) cause DTC's only from the downstream sensors and bypass the upstream sensors?

Now that you have the FSM, it should be easier to narrow down the problem systems with precision. Initially you had no upstream sensor problems, but now we know that you do.

Could you please point me to where I can download the repair manual for this car model, and would the repair manual list specifically the right part number should I need to buy new OEM sensors. The prefix for the downstream sensors I saw online is 89465.

Done!

Assuming the CAT is bad and sensors are fine, should I be worried about any mechanical or electrical faults that may have destroyed the CAT since the upstream sensors never reported any DTC's? (Just to be safe and not change the CAT with an imminent pending problem)
What is a FSM?

It's a Toyota avensis verso 2002 with 200,000 kilometers. 2.0L VVTi 1AZ-FE.

http://www.testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2%20spyder/References/Technical%20Training/01%20-%20Engine%20and%20Engine%20Control/19.pdf

If the CAT is bad and you have a perfectly functional PCM/ECU, then you should get a DTC for that fault

olaboy1:
From the mechanic's explanation P0340 seem to be addressed.
Except you know a way we can recreate that trouble code otherwise I don't think we have a way to tell if the P0340 DTC is gone after following Toyota FSM.
Give your expert opinion

Let us hope so.

But remember that I told you to take note of this sentence in your comments:

OBD self test not performed (I'm not sure what they mean by self test)


It means the monitors did not run. If the monitors did not run, we cannot be sure that the P0340 is gone for good. In other words, the readiness tests of the monitors is inconclusive. Which tests did not run? Your report did not say

Most of your symptoms point inconclusively to CMP sensor failure by the way. Only thorough diagnosis will rule that out.

Did he (the mechanic) take a vehicle on a test drive (OBD II Drive Cycle) in an attempt to see if the monitors for the CMP sensor would run? Anyway that is by the way.

Let us proceed on the assumption that the P0340 is gone for good.

By the way if you studied your FSM, you might have come across the following, it answers your questions about timing chains and the camshaft and are extracted from m_05_0018 and m_05_0029

olaboy1:
Yes I am using my FSM 100% to diagnose and fix my problems.
The fix so far for P0340 following my car FSM are
1. Check sensor and all the correct electrical readings, if bad readings replace the CMP sensor, if good go on to number 2
2. Check harness to the sensor, if bad reading repair or replace the wire harness/connector, If good go on to number 3
3. Check sensor attachment part. This means inspecting the CMP sensor installation and if bad repair or replace sensor attachment part. If good go on to number 4
4. Check the camshaft by removing the camshaft and check the camshaft lobes, if bad repair or replace camshaf. If good go on to number 5
5. Check and replace ECM
In this Toyota steps to fix P0340, timing chain is not listed as a failing component to check.
I have spoken extensively with the former mechanic and his explanation is below
Me: what did you do to take away the code P0340, did you erase it with a scanner
Mechanic: I did not, after I checked that the car's timing was in order, I pulled out the CMP sensor and blew the dirt in the connector off and put it back, I didn't even bother to check if the code had gone at that time until I changed one of the oxygen sensors and used my scanner to check for DTC's and then I noticed the P0340 had gone.
He also said he bought a Nissan car some days ago with upstream and downstream sensors DTC's, he had another model of Nissan like that he was fixing and decided to swap the CAT to check, the moment he brought out the CAT of the car that has sensor DTC's it was broken inside.
The point I was able to pick from him was that he 100% experienced same drivability problem I have on my car when you try to overtake.
Also I noticed when my car is idling and you open the bonnet you could hear the sound like it's a Diesel engine, and I put my ear closely and it looks like the sound is coming from the front area of the engine where you have the exhaust manifold and catalysator. I know how a petrol engine should sound. So to eliminate if the sound was coming from inside the engine, I rev the engine to like 4000rpm without driving the car and it was 100% perfect in sound

My able Engineer how do we proceed with this information we have now on P0340.

Are you saying the P0340 is no longer an issue?

So we are left with DTCs P0141, P0161, P1135 and P1155 ?

Is that your understanding?

If you appreciate how critical to engine operation the Camshaft is, you will appreciate why we wanted to start there.

What is a trip?

A specific list of conditions that must be present for a monitor to run.

A start-to-run and engine shutdown sequence that meets the operating conditions aka enabling criteria for a monitor to run.

The definition of a trip is different for each monitor.

How does the PCM/ECM decide it is ok to run a monitor?

It does that when preset enabling criteria or operating conditions are met.

These operating conditions are different for the various monitors that it runs.

In other words, these operating conditions are specific to the various monitors.

Some of the operating conditions may include any or all of the following:


Engine Coolant temperature at startup

Engine Coolant temperature during the period the test is run

Engine load

Engine speed

Throttle position

Time that has lapsed since the vehicle was started

Vehicle speed


These tests (experiments) performed by one or more monitors are run during what is called a trip.