Am still driving the car with its 10pin gear, but wouldn't advice you to do the same for the following reasons.
The 13pin gear has 5 speed gears while the 10pin has 4 speed gears. So if you settle for it, you are downgrading your car. Since the ECU was designed for a 13pin gear, understanding the now 10 pin causes some lag, most especially when trying to get to gear 3 from gear 2.
You will also have to maintain a higher RPM for any particular speed when compared to 13pin. My friends Camry maintains 120km/h at 2000rpm while mine does the same at almost 4000rpm. So your fuel economy will be poorer.
The car will be slower when you try to race it, the reason being obvious
You will also have a permanent check engine light for two power train code.
Finally if you are have driven you car with a 13pin for a while, you will not enjoy it with a 10pin
I only recently appreciated the deficiencies of a 10pin gear after driving my friend's Camry and the difference was very clear.
Good luck as you try fixing your ride

Just seeing u solved the issue. You can still check out my suggestion if the problem recurs
Stay blessed

Looking for the source of a leakage can be very straight forward if u have an assistant helping you to pour the water while u r inside checking the corners. From my experience, there r only two likely cause of leakage that affects both front floors at the same time. A leakage from the windshield which u can check as GAZZUZZ described and the second from the holes beneath the front floors. These holes are covered by round plastics which as they age dont fit the holes properly and so any time you drive through a pool of water some gets into your car. Most times they may have dislodged completely leaving the hole completely open. I believe u also mentioned water dropping down a hole, that hole should not be open. Get under d car and look for those holes- 4 in total (two below the front seats and two below the back), if they r open or u can push the plastic covering with ease then u have found the cause.
You may doubt my suggestion because u haven't driven through water for a while now, but check properly there is a foamy/ cloth-like material underneath the rug-like floor of your car before you see the metal floor proper. That material can retain a lot of water you got some months ago.
I had the same problem and had to strip the car floor bare, located the dislodged plastics, applied some silicon gel on their edges and then plug the holes. Then I had to sun dry the foamy materials. All is dry now
Check the plugs over the holes as I suggested and pray its not coming from the wind shield because fixing the later is more tasking.

@ Gazzuzz, hope u have any or all of these- MAF sensor, power steering pump, ABS pump and a/c compressor (vdc) for my camry 2007.

i experienced a similar issue but with a toyota, not too sure of ur brake system. there are usually two v- shaped pins hooked from the inner to the outer brake pads. they normally separate the two brake pads from themselves and the rotor when you are not applying the brakes. your calipers pushes the brake pads together and against the rotor to effect braking while those two pins return them back passively.most mechanic just remove and discard these pins. quality brake pads alway comes with those pin. check if those pins are in place, they are small but work wonder.

@ ironheart. Ur compressor will not engage if u have no gas in d system as d pressure switch will prevent d compressor from engaging even wen u put d Ac on.
For u to hear a clicking sound wen u connect d compressor to d battery means d clutch is engaging but as Gazzuzz said, u can connect wit d engine running to c if it cools. Then u will b sure d compressor is functional

Boss add me for d group ooo. 07033241904 before dis vibration begin give me seizures

Sir which group do u mean?

Greets sir, I literally work on my Ac after some technician altered it. The problem now is dat d compressor (wit magnet clutch) draws it main power from d alternator directly while d 7.5A to d former clutchless compressor was used as a starter for d relay to d current magnet clutch. This arrangement causes a noticeable fluctuation in my rpm from 800 to about 550 wit d compressor engaged wit annoying vibrations. Moreso d condenser fan doesn't come on wit d compressor engaged causing poor cooling and worsening vibration wit d compressor engaging and disengaging erractically. D electrical connection to d fans r intact but d ECM doesn't ground it even wit d a/c engaged. I had to ground d condenser fan to keep it running always for better cooling and reduction in vibration. My question is can I get another source of power to d Compressor other than directly from d alternator to reduce d vibration and y doesn't d condenser fan come on wit the a/c turned on. Car is Camry 2007 se, thermostat intact no overheating and I do d electrical repairs wit d aid of its electrical manual. Thanks

@ ikeyman, I have used a car with a t-stat stucked open and fans running directly. It never gets to 70degree operation temp and was consuming fuel. The problem became worse wen I replaced d water with a coolant. It hardly got to 60 degree and far below on a rainy day, check light came up and d code P0128 came up. After some research I disconnected d direct wiring of d fans and surprisingly d fans never turns on no matter d distance i cover and d car never overheats and the temp was now getting to 75 degree, but drops significantly on rainy days
Finally I took a look at d t-stat and it was inplace but tampered wit so that it was always opened. I replace thermostat and now d car gets to operation temp and fans only comes up at around 90 degree wit improved fuel consumption and lesser noise from d fan. And code p0128 is gone. So do ur car a favor, replace d thermostat

A t stat does not have an electrical component, it only reacts to changes in the temp of ur coolant. It opens @ around 82 degree for a Camry. So if coolant temp sensor is malfunctioning the t- stat will still open

OP, how did u come to a conclusion that your initial gear box was bad. a better description of the signs you noticed would have helped guys here to direct you properly. your car started reving in a funny way and stopped..., could mean when you throttle, the car revs but doesnt pick up speed or the rpm was fluctuating up and down and then the car went off. when i had a gearbox issue, the car could rev but no gain in speed until there was no movement at all, and it gave a code. am thinking your fuel pump may be d primary culprit.

my advice for you is that you thread softly since i have experienced what you are going through. the car certainly has some faults but these faults will be exaggerated by your mechanics when they sense your desperation so as to make more money from you. i bought a naija used camry 2007 and had started saving for another car within 4 months of purchase. now here is my experience:
1. car stalled one evening while i was reversing out of the compound, the first mechanic said my engine don knock and bla bla bla. we pushed the car into my compound and an electrical guy was able to start the car but d automatic transmission was completely gone though it was giving some signs before then.
2. then came the AT specialist who said the problem was with d clutch fiber and pump. after a week of spending without any improvement, i discharged d guy and got a mechanic to change the automatic transmission within two month of purchase. after i got more enlightened about AT i realised d AT specialist guy just dey chop my money, as u can only access the strainer and valve body by removing the bottom plate of gearbox, the clutch fibres can only b accessed wen the whole gear is brought out from the car.
3. after 3 weeks of replacing gear the motor no gree start again ooo. the first electrical guy came and noticed no current to the start relay so he tapped current from somewhere and the car started
i moved around and after a stop, the throttle no gree work and the RPM rose to 3000. i just roll the car go my compound. four different electrical guys came around and same issue persisted- i drive out to work and car works fine and wen am returning the throttle fails RPM rises and i just roll the car home. all this while men they chop me seriously they suggested changing alternator, throttle body, brain box which i declined. luckily for me i got the electrical manual of the car and was by myself able to trace the fault to the park neutral switch on the gearbox as d culprit. got a used on for #1000, reset the brainbox as it was in limp mode and d car drives fine till today.
looking back now i only laugh, because mechanics fed fat from my ignorance and desperation. imagine it even got to the point that mechanics were calling me to bring in my car for routine check just to collect cash from me
pls take advices you get from this forum serious or else that car will be made a really nightmare by the kazeems you are visiting. cheers man

the protest was peaceful till the doctors with their escorts of policemen got to warehouse round about. then another group of policemen stationed at the round about prevented their movement to the govt house. right there canisters of tear gas were fired at the doctors who upon recovery returned back to their sectariat along portharcourt road. rochas trampling on their right to protest

ENDTIMEISNEAR:
Hmmm no source

well i was an eye witness

rochas selling off imo state a piece at a time. heard doctors will be on the street tomorrow to protest the sales of general hospitals. long live Rochas and his children to see the effect of his privatisation excercise

hahahaha. just noticed this tread is almost 3 years old. hope someone finds its useful in the future.

i had a similar issue with my camry 2007 after working on the shaft. it happen dat a so called abs ring on the head of the left shaft which d speed sensor by the wheel should sense was poorly fitted and was not moving with the shaft. the ring was adjusted and problem solved. if this problem was not preceeded by a recent work done on your car, you can look for a break in the wire to the speed sensor especially to the front ones. and if you are a DIY guy you can loosen the sensors in the front wheel and clean them up as dirts affects their function. for the right wheel sensor turn your steering fully to the left remove the tyre and u will see it screwed in place with a 10mm nut connected to its wire, for the left do d oppsosite. consider my advice before changing those sensors as they r not easily damaged but can malfunction if their wires are broken, dirt is covering their surface or they cant detect the abs ring(either it is absent or poorly fitted to the shaft end). and also get a scan it will narrow down your search to the particular wheel sensor that is malfunctioning.

i get 12mpg from my 2007 camry and was almost panicking since d manual said i should get up to 24mpg driving in d city. then i saw my friend getting 6.8mpg from his clean 2008 avalon. the point am trying to make is this- what is ur driving habit like and what is d traffic situation around u like. i drove my car from owerri to onitsha and got 30mpg. so before u start looking for fault codes , fuel d ride and get it to d high way, then u can conclude it is drinkind fuel like a tractor

@sienna, automatic transmissions dont last forever, they undergo wears as the mileage of the car increases, with a mileage of about 150,000 be prepared for a new transmission.and guess what, the white man sells the car to us at the first sign of failure as he is not ready to spend $1500 buying a transmission not including the cost of replacement. so u can c why we have a high rate of transmission failure,we buy used cars whose transmission are already failing.. am currently using a10 pin automatic transmission for my camry 2007 se instead of the 13pin and the challenge i see now is difficultly in climbing some bumps( it lacks power and i get stuck sometimes and i hav to reverse and climb wit some momentum) but the car drives pretty well..

well i will give u a candid advice from wat am experiencing. camry 2007 has some issues .mine currently has transmission issues and try google problems with camry 2007 and you will be better enlightened. cheers

thanks guys. i had the car checked today and after they suceeded in starting it they scanned it and it still gave the code p0986.and this time the gear could shift but the car cant drive or reverse. the mechanic said the fault is from a pump in the gear which needs to b changed. i will keep u posted

thanks man. there was no form of over heating, the mechanic after removing the starter tried turning the engine with a spanner via a nut located beside the front right tyre. sori i didnt add the car was scanned at benin and gave an error code p0986 which the scanner said was due to.either low or dirty transmisssion oil. am tryin to arrange for anoda scanning

i just got a nigeria used camry 2007 and drove it from lagos to owerri . car couldnt accelerate beyond 80km/h in benin. a mechanic changed d transmission oil and the problem stopped. but after a week while tryin to drive out the engine stopped and refuse to restart even after tryin to jump start it wit anoda car battery. now d mechanic is sayin d fault is not from the battery or starter but that the engine has seize and he will need to bring down the engine of the car. please i need urgent advice..