ChatGPT 3.5

User
What is the conductivity difference between aluminum cable and copper

ChatGPT
The conductivity difference between aluminum and copper cables is significant. Copper has a higher conductivity compared to aluminum. Generally, copper cables are preferred for electrical wiring and transmission due to their superior conductivity. Copper has a conductivity of about 58.5 × 10^6 siemens per meter (S/m) while aluminum has a conductivity of approximately 37.7 × 10^6 S/m. Therefore, copper cables can carry more current with less resistance compared to aluminum cables of the same size.



User
Can aluminum cab lure be used from solar panels to charge controller?

ChatGPT
Yes, aluminum cable can be used to connect solar panels to a charge controller. However, there are a few considerations to keep in mind:

Size of the Cable: Aluminum cables typically have higher resistance compared to copper cables of the same size. Therefore, you might need to use a slightly larger gauge aluminum cable to compensate for the higher resistance and ensure efficient power transmission.

Compatibility: Ensure that the connectors and terminals used with the aluminum cable are suitable for aluminum wiring. Some connectors and terminals are specifically designed for copper wiring and may not be compatible with aluminum.

Installation and Safety: Proper installation techniques must be followed to prevent issues like overheating, corrosion, and loose connections. It's important to use appropriate techniques and materials to ensure the safety and longevity of the electrical system.

Environmental Considerations: If the installation is in a corrosive environment, special measures may be needed to protect the aluminum cable from corrosion.

While aluminum cable can be used, many installations opt for copper cables due to their higher conductivity and lower resistance, which can result in more efficient power transmission, especially in solar power systems where efficiency is critical.

Drgreatone:

How much did it it cost u to construct?

Well, I think this depends on a lot of factors..

1. For me, I did the material calculations solely by myself, so I didn't have to pay,

2. Had the design done by a subordinate, didn't have to pay.

3. Went to the market myself, bought the materials, moved them to the drilling point, and instructed the industrial drilling. cost me abt 70k because I wanted an easy to dismantle pass and tie system.

4. Did the installation and mounting single-handedly.

5. Painted anti rust myself... Casted the standings myself etc.

5. Quality of material too has great impact on cost...

So at the end, steel and drilling and paint took about N370k... So it depends on what u want, what u can do for urself and also the size of what u have to mount...

Take note, am an enthusiast of DYI that's why

yemi2plus:


So, it doesn't. But this will obstructe free movements of vehicle in the compound.

I had same challenge until I had to design something and showed...

But in my case, the luck I had was that the sun was running along the fence so I made a car port instead and it was not an issue... Check mine out, few pages backwards

In trying to understand what 50% DoD for a 24v norminal system in Volts... Eg, from 29v to 20v, 21v,22v,23v or 24v use? considering that at rest, a Lead Acid battery would always drop to 26.xV without trickle charge (Float),

I got this unsatisfactory info:

"Open sidebar
24V Battery Depth Discharge.


User
what is 50% DoD for a 24v norminal system in Volts... Eg, from 29v to 20v, 21v, 22v, 23v or 24v use? considering that an rest, a Lead Acid battery would always drop to 26.xV without trickle charge (Float)

ChatGPT
If the nominal voltage of a 24V system is assumed to be 24V, then a 50% depth of discharge (DoD) would mean that the battery has discharged half of its capacity, which would equate to approximately 12V.

However, it's important to note that the voltage range you provided (from 29V to 20V) is a bit wider than what would typically be expected for a 24V battery system. Additionally, the resting voltage you mentioned (26.xV) would likely only be applicable after the battery has been fully charged and then allowed to rest for some time without any load or charging.

In general, the voltage of a lead-acid battery will vary depending on a variety of factors such as temperature, charge level, and load, so it's difficult to give a specific voltage range for a 50% DoD without additional information about the specific battery being used and the conditions under which it is being operated.




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Can we have more indept info better than the above please from any member in the house...

The scenerio above is considering an off grid instance where at 5pm, the sun is completely out and loads depend on the backup till next morning

SolnergyPower:
There are several criteria to consider when designing a battery system but it is Depth of Discharge (DOD) that has a prominent effect on the lifespan of the battery

In order to design a battery that will last and provide reliable service for its full rated life, there are several criteria to consider, some of which have already been covered in our Battery O&M article. Operating temperature, voltage, charging and discharging rates as well as planned depth of discharge and days of autonomy are all key terms that are factored into the battery size and type – but one of these items, Depth of Discharge (DOD), has a prominent effect on the lifespan of the battery. DOD is very closely linked with Cycle Life – or the number of discharge cycles a battery can complete before being reduced to 80% of its original capacity (the point at which a battery is considered to have passed its useful life). Although the most common type of battery chemistry for solar use is lead acid, DOD affects every battery chemistry to some extent.

It is very common to hear of battery designers simply doubling the size of a battery based on calculated loads and discharge duration to achieve a 50% DOD and arrive at an overall battery size and budget. For the lead acid battery, this is but the starting point.

Generally speaking, there are two types of deep cycle solar connected batteries. The most common is the Off Grid battery that cycles every day and has enough size to weather extended low irradiance. The second most common is a battery sized for occasional backup and reserve power – also notably with Grid Tied AC coupled systems.

Assuming the loads and days of autonomy are already known, how does an AC coupled back up battery differ in size from an off grid battery? The battery is an array of cells – in series and parallel. Each cell is a chemical reaction and if the chemical reaction can be kept within a sustainable window, then the capacity of each cell to support the reaction can stay strong for the full rated life of the battery and even longer.

Here is a typical plot of battery life cycles vs. DOD. At 50% DOD, the referenced battery is expected to last 1150 cycles before its capacity is reduced to 80% of original, but at 20% DOD per cycle, the battery could be expected to last 3300 cycles (or 9 years at 1 cycle per day) – which is a respectable design target for an Off Grid battery.

Keeping the cycle life of a battery in mind – what is a more accurate guideline than the “50% rule”? For off grid applications, where the battery can be expected to cycle every day, a better guideline would be to design to a DOD of 20%, not 50%.

For grid tied systems with batteries used for backup only, DOD can be taken much further since the grid can be expected to cover at least some of days that the system is running and hopefully most of them – we don’t want to plan for 100% DOD – extreme discharging can permanently damage a battery. But if we planned for 80% DOD that would allow us 675 cycles, and it’s unlikely that we’d experience 675 days of power outages in a 10 year period.

In summary, when designing a battery for backup use, Depth of Discharge can be set considerably lower that when designing a battery for daily, cycling use. So, for example, if a system with 500Ah of projected demand is connected to a relatively healthy grid, with only occasional outages expected, and the battery is a high quality deep cycle battery, what might have been a 1000Ah battery with a 50% DOD design, can now be a 600Ah battery with a periodic discharge of 80% - a substantial savings in cost and space.

Reference: https://www.civicsolar.com/support/installer/articles/how-does-depth-discharge-factor-grid-connected-battery-systems

Having read your extract sir, what then is 50% DoD for a 24v norminal system in Volts... Eg, from 29v to 20v, 21v,22v,23v or 24v use? considering that an rest, a Lead Acid battery would always drop to 26.xV without trickle charge (Float)

temitimx19:
Hello house which of these solar panel charge batteries during rainfall, Monocrystalline or polycrystalline. Thanks

"Open sidebar
Solar panels and batteries.


User
which of these solar panel charge batteries during rainfall, Monocrystalline or polycrystalline. Thanks

ChatGPT
Solar panels, whether monocrystalline or polycrystalline, generate electricity by converting sunlight into electrical energy. However, during rainfall, the amount of sunlight reaching the solar panel is reduced, which can affect the charging of batteries.

Therefore, neither monocrystalline nor polycrystalline solar panels can directly charge batteries during rainfall. However, if the solar panel is connected to a battery storage system, the battery can be charged during periods of sunlight, and the stored energy can be used during periods of reduced sunlight or rainfall.

It's worth noting that polycrystalline solar panels are generally less efficient than monocrystalline panels, meaning they produce less electricity per unit area of solar panel. However, the difference in efficiency is typically small and may not significantly affect the ability of a solar panel to charge a battery in varying weather conditions.




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viperVIP:


What's the make and model of your charge controller?

The make/Brand is HV version of Ashapower... Got it directly from India...

As per the LV Cable you sighted, I can tell you, the distance between the panels and those over head cables is the height of an adult which means the shadow thins out if it lands/cast on the Panels so that can not be an issue in my opinion...

https://www.amazon.in/ASHAPOWER-Solar-Charge-Controller-Ver-6/dp/B08P5VJGFK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1JZ2WTCJHVLI9&keywords=80+amp+ashapower&qid=1679370444&sprefix=80amp+ashapower+%2Caps%2C502&sr=8-3

viperVIP:
What's the size of your array?
Brand of panels



@contease. The barb wire will give you a little bit of shadow I guess, that may reduce your output by 20-30% especially with the few lines of electrical cables I can see passing on the panels.

Many thanks for your observation and thoughts...

Using the basic phone compass followed by my feasibility study, the sun rises and sets right along the fence precisely from left to right wing of the panels standing i from of them. With that, am not sure the barb wires will cast a single shadow on the Panels, atleast I observed the sun rise to sun set yesterday being "SUNDAY"...

Secondly, there is no single cable running on the Panels... Each panel is just divided into two equal halves by design, I guess that's what you see and assumed to be a running cable...

But one question please, I noticed my yield is generated and rated in UNIT. And this is not so convenient for me to understand or convert...

For those who have been following and supportive through this journey, "The prof"@GeorgeD1, one of the "Techiest"@Niyi, and everyone, thank you so much guys. Even though it's been slow but determined, Finally am up and running with my 4 x 600w Pv (paired as 2S2P), though with 80amp cc and a 2.4kva, 2x230Ah battery...

All planning, accessories purchase, design, fabrication, mounting, installation, connection etc, all proudly done by me with the supports and ideas gotten here!

Can't appreciate you guys enough for the heads ups!

HajjiRuffy:


Still trying to figure how to get this charge controller. Pls share a link of where to get it

https://www.amazon.in/ASHAPOWER-Solar-Charge-Controller-Ver-6/dp/B08P5VJGFK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=28XW8DX08LUCN&keywords=Ashapower+80amp&qid=1677925660&sprefix=ashapower+80amp%2Caps%2C492&sr=8-2

earthrealm:


gas emitted by the battery is majorly hydrgen gas....& sulphuric acid fumes..the tester you bought is h2s = hydrogen sulphide, so not sure if your tester has a wide range to catch hydrogen gas.
my flooded batteries are indoors in a wide long passage with a window...the gas generation is only significant during the 4hourly equalization period which happens every 4 to 6 weeks.. ensure that ur charge voltage is 14.7/14.8volts and then equalization voltage is 15v to 15.5volts. you would be fine.

what happens most times is some people set the charge voltage at 15v or higher..and so the battery is boiling most of the time..thus generating above than normal hydrogen gas and acidic fumes. charging significantly above c/10 amps also causes the battery to boil and temps to increase

Yes you are absolutely correct. But whether the tester has a wide range scan for hydrogen, I may not have a prove for that but I can tell u, am on a project where we are rehabilitating a hydrocarbon plant and each time a hydrocarbon line is aired/opened, the testers triggers and am I usef same tester on my project... Which means this tester is of the industrial standard and approved by the appropriate body for use... So I have got a great level of confidence on this.

On the issue of the period the batteries bubbles, again, yes, I have set my equalization for once every month, so if this is happening and my fan is active, I sure be safe at this period... My major fear was not so much of explosion but the harzard, if any, it poses to life... So with this test result, I think am safe with my batteries in the long corridor within the house as yours..

So I think from your comment, this Concept is safe and it helps... Tha k you for the perimeter provided too anyway!

dollarnaira:


Drill holes round the cabinet.
By the way, is there any smell of rotten egg?

Many thanks for your input.. There has never been any "rotten egg" smell... As seen on most of the level gauge of TBs these days is that black "filter/foam-like" membrane which is think has its function to filter this supposed gas. Just my thoughts anyway...

The doors do not really lap as such due to shrink effect of the woods over time so that takes care the need for more parforation..

Greetings everyone...

Just something to share and perhaps, any further enlightenment on this...

Considering the concern on the gas emitted by Tubular batteries and due to my constraints on having to assemble my batteries within the flat, I had to use H2S gas tester to be sure if it triggers but it didn't even though the batteries are in an enclosed make-shift cabinet..

So to makeup for the heat up, I had to install a fan that serves as an extractor and I could tell, the temperature therein is pleasing...

Does anyone have any objection to the whole concept please...

See image.

FEGEITOK:


Where did you get it?

How much does it cost?

If you don't mind.

Thanks

Got it from India.

Just convert the Indian ruppee to naira as per black market though...

NiyiOmoIyunade:
There is an algorithm called Energy Storage System (ESS) on the Victron side that prioritises solar and battery usage over grid. Grid is essentially a tap that can be opened full throttle or restricted as the user wishes - you could be running 3000w of loads and only using 120w of grid for example. The grid behaviour is SoC driven and the system can be set not to charge batteries from the grid.

The Axpert and Deye type inverters also have a more coarse algorithm called 'SBU priority' - there are also a couple of other iterations of this scheme. Essentially solar and battery usage come first then you set the low battery voltage level at which the system defaults to back to grid usage.

All these schemes let you manage your grid usage else with a basic inverter, grid is being used to run all loads and charge battery even when solar is available and sufficient at that time window which is a terrible waste. People manually switch off the mains or use a battery sensing relay + contactor to disconnect mains as they see fit.

One area where the Victron ESS excels is that you can set a miserly use of PHCN units and simultaneously set the system to very greedily gobble up available energy if your Gen is on - you get the best of both worlds as well as the ability to adjust these settings on the fly.

Here we go... Very apt point here... Again, I remember talking to you privately on the "power" of the 80ams mppt I got... It also has the algorithm power to Control my "non-smart" inverter as you have described... It's called Ashapower. With this, I can set some special parameters like panels over grid or otherwise, I can shutdown grid completely, I can set parameters for float, agitate, equalize etc becos the supply of grid to the inverter is connected via the mppt... I have shared the data sheet somewhere behind... To be honest, this CC is as great as those high end inverters...

Thanks you for always coming through with what's obtainable on other inverters.. Just wondering how much trials u have done with all these big names... 😂

toyeoye:
Hello good people, I wonder why no one talks about the huge amount of units consumed through charging the batteries if your setup is tied to the grid.
Na die o! in my opinion doesn't make sense right now because the point of going solar is to save money eventually.
This doesn't apply to folks using
only backup generator to supplement production during long stretches of outage.
Please share your experiences, thanks

You are not alone bro... At some point, I had to look through the grid source lines after my meter to be sure neighbour's are not tapping my line, but of course, it's almost impossible because all cables are conduit just after the meter.

So seating down to analyse, what I see happening is that, we pay for grid even when no national grid.

Assuming you have 100% charge of your battery, and grid goes out to the time your battery becomes 50%, once grid is restored, your battery begins to charge while your appliances are also in use, this process draws so much current to fill in the gap on both the battery and the appliances..., putting off the inverter once grid is off or putting off basic appliances makes no sense otherwise what's the need to having a non stop power supply going solar... The only way out is to use the sun via panels

Sincerely, I think this is it... Let's wait for the SMEs to tell us more!

Greetings to everyone...

Please anyone with a personal experience on the Tactel products...

Precisely the 3.5kva 24v norminal system? :

Check out this product on Jumia https://www./tactel-solar-3.5kva-24v-pure-sine-wave-inverter-105338686.html?utm_source=social&utm_medium=pdpshare

Kindly share your experience please...

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I did a long response that made me sef tired

But a shorter rejoinder is below

Protective Earths and Earthing - Solidly connect all buried earth electrodes together at your facility be they electrodes for PV earth, lightning protection earth or general earth. This creates an overall better fault sink (lower combined resistance) and eliminates voltage gradients between isolated buried electrodes that could damage equipment and harm personnel.


Zero Reference Grounding - Do not connect either of AC neutral or DC negative to each other and do not connect AC neutral and DC negative to the same protective earth.

Do not connect DC negative to any protective earth at all - rather connect the chassis frame or ordinarily non current carrying part of the equipment to protective earth.

AC grounding - connecting the AC neutral to protective earth - should only be done when supported by the electrical network and all your connected equipment and is/has become a requirement for enhanced personnel and equipment safety.

Chassis and frame grounding - should be done in all cases - connect the chassis of your major energy generators and processors to protective earth - test for full isolation between the chassis and AC neutral and also between the chassis and DC negative before making the chassis to protective earth connection to avoid unintended behaviours.

Designated equipment earth point to protective earth - do in all cases. Do same checks as chassis and frame grounding above so that the system can behave in a predictable manner.

PV frame and mounting rack to protective earth - connect directly to the earth electrode or worst case the earth service bus bar

Seriously, why are both of you doing this to us, you just drive my brains like "it's convayed in a roller coaster" �. But was a nice read from both of you...

I see both of you still have alot to contribute to this particular subject matter, for me, one take home is "Do not connect DC negative to any protective earth at all" and now it's clearer.

Why dont we have a space on Twitter and have a real talk on all of these please... I know Niyi still has a lot to pour out...

But to be honest Niyi, sometimes your choice of words, I know they are the right vocabs and terminologies, but I really get lost reading your articles and then I have had to call you to get them expressed better in words and this is why I think Twitter space will help all of us understand even much more what you have explained in writting. Mr Niyi, please open one, could be late evenings and I sure will be one of your listeners....

Kudos guys!

AshipaEk0:
Please humor my mumu questions:

In a place where there's difficulty in locating where to mount solar panels.

Mumu question 1:

Is it a feasible idea to use solar panels in place of that window overhang cover (the type we do with roofing sheet to stop rain from coming in through windows)?


Mumu question 2:

Said window faces the East. As early as 6:30 A.M the sunlight is coming in through the window intensely.

Is 6:30 AM to 1 PM active sunlight activity enough for any meaningful use of panels?

After 1 PM the location is no longer receiving direct sunlight.



Thanks

Lovely question you got here not so a "mumu" question ..

What I did was first download a compass on my phone to identify sun rise and sun full, Luckily for me, it was precisely running on my fence (east to west), and so I took my time to check this physicaly and it's what the compass says so I did what u see on the image attached...

With this, the sun will be on the panels from 6.40am till say 5.00pm without shades

Think in that direction.

Greetings everyone.

Am overwhelmed with the huge wealth of consultancy I got and still getting from this league of extra ordinary great fellows.. Even for free, I must say...

Still joyful for the experience am getting with everything about RE and being able to DIY(myself). Again, this I am doing only because of my passionate interest in every DIY, otherwise, best is to get the real tested and trusted experts.

Spent the major part of my weekend programming, learning and manipulating my new CC..

Can't help but say a sincere and big thank you to the "Prof" @GeorgeD1, @ojesymsym, @Ojeysky, @Niyiomolyunade, and everyone who's read all the back and forths here.

In attempt to try something new, even though the new CC has the feature of passing Grid through it to the inverter to make it smart(er), I wanted to further loop the CC to the battery through the inverter terminal, one key example @Niyiomolyunade gave was, "assume the currents from CC and Inverter to the battery being a pressure water pipe... If the meeting points of the "water" from the CC (say" A" and Inverter (say "B" being point "X", then the carryer of A+B=C must be bigger, I.e, C must be big to accommodate A and B comfortably to maintain same volume, else there will be great loss of water pressure and that is if both A and B are to run at same time at any given point which may lead to burst of line "c" - heatup and then fire in this case"

With the above, I now have DC supply from CC and Inverter running seperately to meet at the battery terminal...

Thank you so much guys... I hope someone is learning too...

Right now am able to manually or automatically shutdown or run my inverter from the CC... This CC is able to manipulate the inverter at will...

Grid to Solar is set at 14.5x2 which mean I may hardly need grid... Lol while Solar to Grid is set at 11.5x2 (simply becos my battery can run for 5days without charge, and my environs is hardly without power in 24hrs)...

With this, I can say bye to Grid o... Lol

Thanks guys... More Juice to your batteries!

NiyiOmoIyunade:
What you call 'double effort' of cabling is actually a critical code and safety and operability requirement.

There is something called voltage drop which happens when you pass relatively large currents through a cable and this is the force you are working against - uncompensated voltage drop can make your battery undercharge and/or reduce the useable energy Wh from the battery.

The kosher thing to do is to run CC cable to battery busbar and seperately run the inverter cable to battery busbar. If you must share DC cabling between the inverter and CC then you need to upsize the common cable gauge to be enough to carry the combined maximum inverter and CC current without overheating and with minimal voltage drop and yet this practice is strongly discouraged.

This CC appears to be attempting a very rudimentary Ignore AC for battery/solar self consumption algorithm (mimicing ESS like behaviour) - you are better served using one of the hybrid inverters which make DC solar energy directly available on the inverter AC bus or implement thesame logic this CC attempts with a cheap AliExpress battery sensing (LVD) relay. Essentially your CC is switching the Grid supply ON/OFF - this is very coarse control because what you really want is solar (and sometimes battery) priority where you source only the balance of energy that solar (or battery) cannot provide from the Grid.

ojeysky:


Alright I see the inverter is designed to integrate with the external CC nice

But in this case, it's actually the other way round.. It's the CC that is designed to accommodate and be able to make the inverter smarter by releasing or disabling AC power to the connected inverter as a function of any preset values keyed into the CC... From what I read in d datasheet, it uses a relay to get this open and close done as a signal from the CC microcontroller...

But I still have one gray area "prof" and I are still not in alignment...

Now, considering there should be two DC cable that are conventionally meant to meet on the Battery Terminal, one from the CC and the other from the Inverter...

Question is, any negative impact if this is reduced to one by sending the DC cable to the battery via the Inverter terminal instead? This is just to again reduce double efforts of double cabling... Since the inverter DC terminal already has contact with the battery, it's shorter to make the CC send its DC signal or current through the same inverter Terminal...

Also note that the CC release of DC is I/O meaning its either CC or Inverter releasing DC current per time

What would be your though @Ojeysky...

If you don't get the point, I could share a paper sketch am still looking at... .

ojeysky:


Could you check the attachment as it doesn't seem to be part of your message

Menh! I have been struggling to load 2 screenshots here... Not even one loads... Keeps showing me either load memory or wrong reset code...

Now u have it bro... I have been analyzing this new "toy" with one of the top guys here whom I refer to as "Prof" one of the guys with the big batteries... Lol... Am not sure if he likes his name mentioned... So he agrees with this new stuff so am proceeding soon...

So sorry if the writeup is not clear but the diagram explains it in in one goal

ojeysky:


I am still trying to process this, please can you be kind to re-explain? Because if what you have written is what I think it is please don't try it unless you've confirmed that the CC has some compatibility with the inverter to be connected together that way

@Ojeysky, let me allow you read the diagram and details from the datasheet then let me know if it's still not clear to youbro... Things are indeed fast changing in my opinion...

Let me share parts of the datasheet...

Many thanks and respect to the one I rather call "Prof" I met here... His been providing me priceless guides from the day one i started this venture with 6car batteries... Prof, thank you so much, may your batteries keep producing same power from day one till end of life! Lol... Thank you so much. You know I appreciate you Prof!

Hi guys,

I got a new "toy" Ashapower 80amp MPPT CC,

Anyone with me on this one?

It's got some additional technology to make the non-smart inverter smart by connecting the Inverter to it rather than connecting it conventionally to grid directly...

Hello everyone.

Please I need a quick technical advice here.

I have a 2.4kva BTS inverter. I have used this with 4car batteries(for a period of 2years) and now it's time to go for the real batteries. I want to get Tubular Batteries as against the Gel types. My worry is if this inverter can charge this batteries and if this combination can serve/perform well as expected considering the Tubular max charge is about 15v...

See attached inverter... Same as mine but mine is not hybrid. Other specifications are same

Niflheim:
@op,

Have you ever heard this saying before?

QUESTION: Did you sleep well?

ANSWER: Yes I did!!! Like "god" during the Holocaust!!!

How many men,women and little children cried out to the "christian god" during the Holocaust of World War 2? Do you know what those guys went through? Where was the god? People in gas chambers screaming while drinking their own urine(from thirst)!!! Prisoners were even asked to fight each other to the death and I know of an ex-boxer in the concentration camp who had to fight a total of 200 inmates to the death before freedom eventually came!!! Some were placed in cages with bears who tear them into pieces!!! And people can still talk about a 'god' that allows MFM to win the Nigerian Profesiol league?!!!! ?

Could you also look at this writeup and share your view if you may...

https://www.linkedin.com/posts/ashok-kumar-abb48714_god-satan-and-man-in-the-cosmic-perspective-activity-6873099613256187904-queE

A Sales outlet, ETM Nigeria, urgently needs the service of a vibrate, smart young man for the role of Secretary/Sales.

The person must be good with numbers for the said role.

Nature of the job: To resume daily, monday to Saturday in a block producing site dealing with sales of blocks, sand, cement and granite.

Role: Takes daily record of all sales activities, Daily production and consumables, sales records, correspondence, phones calls, inbound/outbound supplies of material, preparing clerical records and filling of all documents including but not limited to sales invoice, daily/weekly/monthly reports; working directly with the Manager/Logistics to enable a coordinated day to day productions/sales with traceable easy-to-use documented record/register of every single sales, activity etc and reporting directly to the MD.

Prior experience working in a building/Construction industry and driver experience will be an advantage.

Venue: km 42, ETM Nigeria Ltd Abijo by lekki epe express way, Lagos. send in your application: contease_iksdayee@yahoo.com.

Review closes by 20th June, 2021

The "evil genius" may or may not be breathing....

Well, we await to hear who the the "big Nigerian" is...

eleojo23:



It's definitely interference from the inverter and charger. I think your inverter being modified sine wave is also a big factor. I experienced this with only my external charger, my inverter is pure sine wave.

Is the inverter and external charger close to your TV? If yes, try relocating them far from the TV and sound system, that should reduce the interference.

Many Thanks for your time.

Been researching too and all I see affirms the cause to be the modified sine wave inverter actually. Though I just realised too that without the external charger connected to power, I get a few more fm stations than when it's connected. Infact I get only 1 fm station.

Also just realised that my single rechargeable bulbs too either dont charge or just don't stay ON when I intentionally turn off all power including inverter... Lol... Not important/needed anymore though

Both the inverter system and sound system are in the extreme of an "L" location of two separate rooms apart (just to describe).