₦airaland Forum

nurey:
Buy manual instead

1. Most of the vehicle imported are salvaged, the gear system is already faulty from abroad because of the accident they were involved or the handling they received at the auction yard, to trucking and shipping carelessly till they got to nigerian soil. It's just unfortunate ot packed up in the hands of the current user.

2. Poor maintenance, I always change all the fluids of the vehicle I just acquired, for tokunbo I wait after 6months for naija used within a week some people are afraid and would rather use the tokunbo fluid like that not knowing the condition the vehicle came at, they won't even guage the fluid hence damage occurs.

3. Bad or ill trained technician plus high cost of goods in our country is also a major factor, the I'll trained technician love dextron III fluid like kilode because it is cheaper and readily available. Cost too sometimes chases owners away dextron III for 2000 sienna b4 was 800naira, it's now 2k for 1L while texamatic was 3500/L b4, it's now 8k/L. Honda DW1 was 4k/L while dual pump II axle fluid was 3500/L now both are 8k yo 8500/L and minimum wage still dey 30k ooo intruder to cut cost, sharp practised are bound which leads to failure on the long run.

4. The country is not yet ripe for those advanced technologies, the roads needed, fluids needed, competent hands needed are scarse resources go Mobil and Total nah 20w50 full their line up. We don't manufacture the necessary things needed to keep those cars on road infact since 1980s, nigerian tech space has been degrading and reason why at many mechanic workshops, you find high end vehicles abandoned there due to lack of spare parts or technical know how.

I appreciate your experience.👍

Nemesisobaara:
. Should I allow him to lose the base of the transmission. I think he mentioned something like sump. I am scared. I've always heard that this transmission requires utmost care. I told him to just remove the bolt from beneath, then the red plastic and allow the oil to drain out. But baba said he will have to remove the sump abi na base of the gearbox to make sure that the entire gear oil goes out completely.

He may have said that because he is trying to access the transmission filter..possibly to have it cleaned.

This is NOT necessary at this stage since you are not experiencing any drivability issues.

Simply do a drain and refill.

Be very mindful of the quantity you put back in like i mentioned before.

Nemesisobaara:
Please I need an advise. I want to pour out the gear oil of my Rx350 2011 model and pour in another. I have bought the original WS for the vehicle, but the gear mechanic said he will have to loose the base of the gearbox. Videos i see on YouTube only shows the bolt and the red inner plastic removed and the oil allowed to drain before it's replaced from the tire side. Please, I don't want to make a mistake. All this people fit put holes for man pocket. Please advise me.

What advice do u need exactly.. looks like you know what to do..

After draining, ensure to refill with exactly what was removed (this is provided your transmission pan wasnt leaking previously). If the pan was leaking, you'll have to follow some technical procedures to ensure you get the right quantity in.

Toyota WS is the right fluid to use

The 2008 - 2013 highlander may be what you need.

Price

SmilesInn:
1.If it's not broken, don't try to fix it
2.let a professional help you check the oil by opening the drain hole to get a tiny amount of the oil to see the color

I once gave advice number (1) to a friend until after about a year, he called me tell me his transmissiom had packed up.

Hiding once head in the sand, hoping a clear and present danger would simply pass is no sound strategy.

Op pls do number 2.

blackbone989:
Scan first. Don't touch without scanning

That car is a real machine.
Your kazeems have obviously tampered with it..
Do exactly what this guy says

Caveatemptor:
Battery draining issues is the worst thing that can happen to your car. I bought a 2010 Lexus 350 es from a dealer. The car was so neat,balanced and solid. I loved that car.
The only issue was the fact that something was draining the battery. Initially I thought my battery was bad and bought a new 75 amp battery while gifting my mech the old one. Seven days later the new battery drained out. I woke up in the morning and the ignition just made a click click sound. I accused the mech of getting me a dud battery.
The mech pleaded innocence,so we took the vehicle to a rewire who suggested we should remove the car tracker I installed after buying the car,according to the rewire the tracker was the culprit.
So we removed the car tracker.
We recharged the car battery and everything was okey dokey for a week. Monday morning. Work day. Took my bath. Dressed up. Entered my car. Hit the keyless button. Click,click,click!!!
I was mad. This was a car I used last night.
Decided to ditch my mech,and sought a new one who suggested we run a scan on the vehicle while doing his best to run down the previous mech as an incompetent oaf.
Scan was run on the vehicle severally but it did not give any concrete codes. Mr Mech then suggested we buy a new battery. He gave the impression that the battery bought was not original.
I agreed to buy a new battery but this time I didn’t give it out but tried it in one of my alternate cars and it worked quite well once it was charged very well.
So I moved on to mech number 3, an elderly and wise middle aged man who warned me that the vehicle needed to be driven over a certain range of miles daily or else the charging system would not be adequately charged and the battery would run down. He even advised me to pay a visit to Lexus forum's.
I drove that car from that moment. I would fire the vehicle on long routes in order to work out the battery.
One month later when I thought the solution had been found,I got to my car one morning, pressed the starter button and the click,click sound again.
I was mad.
Called the old mech and he brought a young rewire who after running 🏃‍♀️ scans told me the door locks were faulty and because of this were draining the battery. By this time I was so fed up I asked him to change the locks.
The locks were changed but after a week,the battery ran down again.
By this time I was completely exasperated with the car,the mechs and rewires. I just put the car up for sale.
As much as I loved that car I just sold it at a loss just to get it out of my garage.
Let the guy that bought it solve the battery drain issues. Phew!!!
I wouldn't wish the experience on my worst enemy.
OP, all the best solving your issues!

Damn...

huslerr:
Thanks. Any idea where I can get it?

Check Konga.
Its been known to fix a variety of transmission problems as well.

Read through customer reviews on Amazon.

Lightrp:
Good evening house. I'd like to ask a question, my 2006 Toyota camry sport runs for 280miles that is about 450KM at full tank with AC On. Is this consumption ok?

Feels a bit high.

My 08 v6 camry gives me about 480km for about 40liters of gas (which is somewhere around 55 to 60% of the full tank capacity)

..

Weirdcamila:
They said it’s the best
What do you suggest ? And can you please attach the pictures of the Toyota Ws?

That transmission is very particular abour its fluid. Toyota WS is what is recommended. You'll find it on jumia or konga

What kinda oil do you use and for how long?

ginstinct:
Toyota camry SE 2008, recently i observed that at idle or while driving the park brake light comes, same time the tachometer and the temp gauge fluctuates, if driving the speedometer fluctuates or they both go dead.

The AC also stops cooling while all this is going on.

Please assist.

Sometimes idle rats are the culrpits for issues like this... have you noticed any in the car lately?

topsyboy:
Good day I have 2005 Toyota Camry SE
Car jerks, rough idle recently I change the six coils and plugs slight change for 3days car goes back to same performance I took it to ladipo they change the knock sensor still it jerks and vibrate consume lot of fuel at first start in the morning the slow stick goes above 10 before it gradually drops down.

It feels like you are throwing away hard earned cash.
Pls always start with a scan..

Mecoy:
I am having a suspected transmission issue with my 2007 Lexus ES 350 and I'm in need of a reliable gear expert in Abeokuta.

This is a summary of the problem:
1. I had an accident in April with the car where in order to avoid a careless driver, I swerved hard, lost control and hit the driver's tyre/side on the median kerbs on Lagos Ibadan expressway. Brake disc broke and shaft pulled out. It was replaced immediately by the nearest mechanic to the accident scene. Further repairs were done gradually.

2. In June/July, I had a mechanic check the car in Ilorin to fix all the noise on the front tires. He changed linkages, ball joints and greased the shaft cup which was low on grease.

3. After he fixed it, I traveled the next day, but the car had a lot of unusual vibrations, especially one gentle and repeated vibrations that comes once in a while. Vibration is usually noticed between 40 and 100Km/hr. Mechanics tried to trace the vibrations but couldn't get it. In the process of tracing the vibrations, the shaft was suspected and it was cleaned twice. Once it was 'packed' with rubber and my mechanic in Ilorin faulted the rubber packing and removed it and cleaned thoroughly.

4. In September, I noticed something unusual in the transmission, there was always a delay when switching from gear 2 to gear 3. It wasn't frequent and most times, mechanics didn't notice it during test drive. During inspection, it was noticed that the gearoil sump had hit something and was deformed. Mechanic asked me to drop the car to allow it cool before working on the sump to beat it back to shape. He did this and changed the oil. Please note that I have always used original Toyota WS gear oil for this car, never compromised. He topped with 4 litres oil which he claimed was sufficient.

5. I got back to Ilorin and realized that the problem wasn't solved, there was still a delay switching from gear 2 to 3. I had it scanned by someone who noticed an error, I checked it online, it was something about solenoid which affects the switch from gear 2 to 3, but the guy cleared the error without saving them.
I took it to another gear specialist in Ilorin, he had it scanned but the scan turned out to be okay. Nothing was wrong with the gear and engine. He only advised me to top the gear oil with 2 litres which I did before traveling back to Abeokuta.

6. I traveled back to Abeokuta and the problem was still there, at some point when I was almost in Abeokuta, the car had difficulty moving and was vibrating, I parked, turned off the engine, turned it back on after a few seconds and everything was fine, I continued my journey, but with the transmission delays. The car is currently in Abeokuta, working, but with the transmission delay.
I don't want to travel with it anymore and I don't want to have any trial and error done by just any mechanic. I need trusted hands to check it here in Abeokuta. I don't want to risk driving it down to Lagos.

Please I need a trusted hand that can work on the car and save me from a transmission replacement.

You should check to see if you've over filled the transmission fluid level. Sometimes they start misbehaving if there is too much fluid. I'm sure yours does not come with a dip stick, you can check online to see how to ascertain the right level.

Setting the right fluid level might at least solve one of the issues you are currently experiencing.

9icetoo:
That's the speed the torque converter usually locks up.

Could it be failing?

Hmm.. it might be o.

I'll keep babying it until another alternative or solution comes up

Recently i discovered my camry 08 v6 shudders briefly when accelerating or climbing a hill within the speed range or 60 to 80 km/hr.

The shudder feels like mild grinding sensation that comes on and off only when accelerating within theaforementioned speed range.. it rarely occurs when driving at constant speed.

I thought it might be my inner cups so i had them both replaced but the issue still persisted.

Also did alignment but the problem still remained.

My tyres are brand new so i can rule that out..

Later i felt it might be linked to the transmission so i did a drain and refill (twice) with Toyota WS atf. The transmission fluid was still quite pink though.. as this isn't my first time. The problem didn't really go away but i think it may have reduced a bit (might just be my mind playing tricks on me).

Please what do you suggest i do... i have run out of ideas.

Cc Gazzuz, kingreign and other Chiefs in the house

Thanks.

Recently i discovered my camry 08 v6 shudders briefly when accelerating or climbing a hill within the speed range or 60 to 80 km/hr.

The shudder feels like mild grinding sensation that comes on and off only when accelerating within theaforementioned speed range.. it rarely occurs when driving at constant speed.

I thought it might be my inner cups so i had them both replaced but the issue still persisted.

Also did alignment but the problem still remained.

My tyres are brand new so i can rule that out..

Later i felt it might be linked to the transmission so i did a drain and refill (twice) with Toyota WS atf. The transmission fluid was still quite pink though.. as this isn't my first time. The problem didn't really go away but i think it may have reduced a bit (might just be my mind playing tricks on me).

Please what do you suggest i do... i have run out of ideas.

Cc kingreign and other Chiefs in the house

Thanks.

kingreign:
You wouldn’t expect me to sugar coat it for you, or do you?

The engineers and designers who designed and installed the particular transmission in YOUR CAR did it on purpose. YOUR mechanic coerced YOU to change YOUR VEHICLE’s transmission from 13pin to 10pin for reasons known him which although, YOU Initially showed some resistance, but bulged into HIS suggestion.

Now tell me, is this NOT a one chance or you want me to tell you it’s a mistake on YOUR mechanic’s part or on YOUR own part?


I guess YOU loved it and YOU didn’t find it insulting when YOUR mechanic rendered YOUR car immobile for over a month only to come to an online forum and start to define what an insult and a nauseous feeling is or is not.

It may interest you to know, the chance laid before you is 20/80. YOU may end up spending more money to ensure the car attains a ‘’managable’ state to move around or even replace that transmission and redo the wiring again.


I come in peace and no offense meant, If you find my comment offensive, it’s how you decide to perceive it.


And no, I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO RESPOND OR NOT TO RESPOND TO ANY COMPLAINTS. MY response on YOUR complaint on MY thread DOES NOT prove whether I am more or less a professional, because you aren’t paying for a professional consultancy fee and shouldn’t dictate how professional I should be.

The boss is talking

phred007:
Good morning house.
I have a 2012/13 Camry Le (4cyl) that was driving perfect before yesterday.
Yesterday I went to change the inner cup and on driving back home, it started selecting abnormally and this terrible kick when I slow to almost a stop.
Its also not engaging reverse again.
Please What is the problem and any possible solution?
@gazzuzzu and all other specialist or anyone that has experienced this kind of issue please help.
New gearbox for this car no be bean

What issue did you notice before changing the inner cups?

Like Gazzuz mentioned, your transmission may have been contaminated. You should consider a transmission flush at this point.

Ops where do you stay?

Yansham:
Good morning House,

I noticed a sound coming ( like a metal hitting/rubbing on another metal) from my engine beside the belt area. The car is Camry 2007 with a 3.5 L V6 (2GR−FE) engine

What could be the problem?

Cc: GAZZUZZ

Did u recently work on that area eg compressor servicing or installation, power steering pump repair etc

Zamorano14:
Good evening house, pls my Lexus Rx330 keeps making squeaking sound which makes me think the alternator belt needs to be changed but after Changing the belt, the sound still continues, so my mechanic said to lubricate the bearings with oil as that should be the cause of the squeaking sound because the bearings are dry. After lubricating the bearings, this squeaking sound still persists and even more louder this time but the mechanic said to keep driving it for a while as the bearings are not rhymed well yet with the lubricant, that immediately they are rhymed with the lubricant, the sound will stop. Please help on how to fix this, as this sound is so embarrassing while driving

Once had this issue. Changed belts multiple times and even two of the idle rotors.. but there was no difference. Infact, the noise became louder.

I later later changed the BELT TO A SLIGHTLY SHORTER ONE. The noise disappeared.
Apparantly, the previous belt had expanded a bit

I doubt he is the father of the baby.

First thing is couples shouldn't be this far apart. It opens the door for many many temptations. Who knows what the wife has equally dabbled into over there at Scotland. So all parties are WRONG in this equation.

The second thing is he should open up to his wife. Be empathetic, sorry and sincere. Trust me the ground will not open. You will be ok. Many men have falling into this temptation in the past.

Thirdly, DO NOT ABORT.

Fourthly, you should ask the Lord to forgive you. He will show you mercy.

Fifthly,tell the maid you will be doing paternity test as soon as she delivers. You may notice a sudden change in her attitude. I seriously doubt her claim.

I wish you well as you handle this wisely.

tobintin:
Hallos Gazzuzz,

Good evening.

I have a Toyota Camry 2009 LE 4-plugs which has been in use for about 3-years. At purchase, I noticed there was no catalyst and I always have Code 1 and 2 when scanned even after replacing the catalyst . Recently, I noticed an increase in fuel consumption and decided to scan the car, I have the below 7 codes. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and cleared the codes but it still comes back after some drive cycles. Please help with troubleshooting of the following codes.

1. P0606
2. P0420
3. P0101
4. P0102
5. P0113
6. P0138
7. P0172

I would start by changing the MAF sensor.

Clear the codes and drive a few kms..

Then scan again

.

I've been using the V6 for a couple of years now and my engine still feels like new.

Just this Sunday, i was out on a long drive and the power of the engine still gave me chills.

I maintain the car myself so its still in pristine condition. In fact i get better mileage than my friends with the 4 cylinder.

If you want comfort and power, this is it hands down.

Kieseni:
Good morning car gurus,

My RX350 has been having issues. Steering has been stiff while turning, steering rack has been changed, but the issue still somehow exists. The engine also misfires, check engine light is on. So i decided to scan it. I have a small ELM 327 device. This is the result. I looked up the solutions and honestly, i still have some issues.

Sir, what do you advice?

* Looks like a classic power steering pump issue.. esp if it is making a whinning noise when you turn the steering. You should meet a good mechanic to properly diagnose this before you spend money replacing it.

* your other issues (as revealed on the scan) are fairly straight forward. Change the failing ignition coils as well as the oxygen sensor. The misfire will stop and fuel consumption will be better

soviete:
Oga Gazzuzz, I got issues with my kia rio 2009 sedan..not hatchback...
At First, it couldn't go up hill. it would move well on leveled surfaces but it won't go uphill especially from a stop. I went to various mechanics they couldn't pin point the actually issue...one said it could be fuel pump..another said to change spark plugs and clean the nozzle and fuel injector..another said timing was off..they all tried but It still didn't stop.
They later said it's a wiring issue that it's a rewire job. Rewire change fuel pump and ignition coil. After that one finished car moved very well but reverse gear didn't work and it makes on clanking sound when it's idling...but once you rev the engine the sounds stops. Rewire said that wasn't his jurisdiction that na mechanic work but that was the last straw for me...I change am for rewire...carry my car comot and haven't taken it anywhere since then

You are throwing hard earned money away. Start with a scan

I see