Whenever I start my camry sport 2007, it has to warm/work for 20mins before moving if not the ignition will off when I press the gas. Though after some time on the road, the engine work will balance.
Is it normal to start an engine and wait for 10mins and above before moving (daily use) or is there a problem with the car?
How can someone maintain white beautiful car in Lagos Mainland.
I have a 2004 Honda Accord v4, I have noticed that when about to change to the second gear, it jerks. I bought naija used back in March this year.
Because of this jerking, I accelerate soft and once it enter gear 2, I accelerate hard, and it won't jerk if I accelerate soft
The gear selection is fine, it doesn't slip to neutral or does anything funny, only the jerking.
Also note that the jerking can occur maybe 2-4 time in a day. And sometimes it doesn't jerk at all.
I recently replaced the old engine to a tokunbo engine late last month when the engine was smoking and consuming oil. The mechanic that works on the car said the engine is gone.
After the engine change, for like 2 weeks I didn't experience any jerk but recently I have started noticing the jerk when about to enter gear 2.
I also noticed that the way it jerks with the new engine is mild and not hard compared to when I was using my former engine.
I use the recommended ATF oil for honda because the former owner doesn't and I have serviced the gear once.
Also, I checked the gear oil this morning and it is well gauged.
Kindly assist please.
This may be your knock sensor.. but a scan will reveal all
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First thing is was the pan previously leaking? If no, then refill with the exact amount that came out.
If it was, then getting the exact amount to refill may be a bit complicated. You will have to use temperature dynamics to guage the exact level of the trans fluid. Usually it is between 2.5L to 3L. But never 6L like the previous person mentioned
Okoyedavid3: Hi Gazuuz. Nice job you are doing, having read through this trend and it's the most trend were one can find solution to persistent car issues. Thanks once again.
I use a carmy 04 model v6, 1mzfe.
Pls of recent I got my CEL on, scanned it the codes are P0300 P0301 P0303 P0305 P0420 P0430
Have changed spark plugs, checked coils (with a multimeter they are okay, even swapped coils, since it's a V6 but I still get misfire codes in the banks 1) changed fuel filter, gotten new air filter, serviced fuel injector, at a time I swapped the fuel injector bank 1 to bank 2 and vice versa.
Still get these codes come up after covering 75Miles.
My kazeem says the car compression is okay,
I don't feel any drivability issues. It's revs well and fires well on the road. My mech even took it for s spin drive and said that the car picks very quickly and well unlike other cars he has driven.
Pls Gazuuz and other car gurus, Autologic and all I need your help in resolving this issue as am not comfortable with these CEL codes being on.
Thanks
Attached is a pics of the CEL codes.
Do you experience any form of hard starts? Cold or hot?
Musty4ahmed1: Please Oga GAZZUZZ help, my honda accord baby boy jerks when I engage the gear in reverse and won't move immediately, but become smooth when I have driven it for some hours. Also when am in top speed accelerating the car will jerk. What's the possible cause please?
richforever123: Good morning Wonderful Gurus in the house
I made a complaint initially about my car having multiple transmission codes and was still driving fine which surprised Gazzuzz, I later found out that my car used a Hybrid Engine which was changed to a normal 2.4l engine, however that is a story for another day
My question is that my car has been idling roughly and hesitation, I scanned the car and found the culprit, the Upstream and Downstream Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit was blown, after some research, I found out that the function of the Upstream oxygen sensor is to communicate with the ECM on the Air-Fuel ratio, while the downstream Sensor check the gases that come out of the Catalytic Converter to ensure it is working fine
I have changed the Upstream oxygen sensor and everything seems back to normal, however, I want to ask if it is mandatory I also change the Downstream Oxygen Sensor?
Even the government recognizes alcohol as an appearance of evil (that is why there is always that asterisk in its advertisement).. what more the bible.
Danielkupiejo: Pls I just observed that my car is burning oil. Pls what oil can I use that it won't burn in my car. I currently use forte oil visco 2000. It shorts oil whenever I travel pls what's the best oil to use for my Honda Accord 2012 model
It's still a relatively new engine. Check your PCV valve.it may be the culprit. Also Visco is a detrimentally inferior product for that engine. Please do away with it ASAP.
esteelover: I bought a toks Toyota camry Le 2011 6months old after I got it, my mechanic noticed that the oil was burnt. He changed it using T4. After about a two months, I notice a leak and he said it was from the transmission. So brought the transmission down and fixed the leak and refill with another gallon of T4. Ever since then if I put the car in reverse, it will shake the car. And when it enters 2 to 3 it jerks. And I have the check engine light on. Please any help on what to do? He has also serviced the filter.
Thanks for the other day on the advice you gave me. My transmission has been slipping for a while and I observed that it was increasing a bit. I was also a bit surprised because I had been changing my transmission fluid regularly. You then adviced to drain and refill with 3 litres (instead of 2 like I normally do) and the slipping disappeared like a bad dream.
Kanmiboy: I have a Toyota Camry 2001 model but finds it hard to crank mostly in the morning .I will have to restart it for like three to four times before I could get it started and this only happens in n the morning alone .took it to a mechanic I was told its coolstart. That has been checked with the battery even alternator still no changes .I was later told the nossle needs to be services. ..tanks ahead
How many kilometers is on the Odomoter? My guess is its above 100 or 150km already.
Like someone said, don't wait until u notice issues before working on it. Be on the offensive and do something about it now.
In your case, I would recommend a simple drain and refill.. Refill with the exact amount that was drained and drive around for about a month and repeat.
This video can guide you. You can do it yourself or supervise a mechanic ASTUTELY as he works on it..
I can honestly say I get better fuel economy than most of my friends with 4 cylinders. And the driving power is unimaginable especially when travelling.
From popular comments it is true that working on V6 engines is alot more painstaking than 4 cylinders due to compactness of the engine bay. But trust me, if u maintain ur car well, you will rarely have to go around the engine for much... and when you do it is one-off for a prolonged period of time. V6 engines are lot quiter and last a lot longer. Even at 300,000km on the odometer, a v6 engine will still maintain that clean smooth sound compared to the 4 cylinder.
Anyone gunning for this has my blessing. You wont regret it. Fuel will be the last thing you'll think about. And when others are talking about their engines wearing out, you'll laugh because yours is just getting warmed up. Only embibe basic meticulous care, and you'll be fine
If you've replaced the camshaft sensor and the problem still resurfaces, then it maybe the cable leading to the sensor. I once had this issue and the culprit was an open circuit in the wiring leading to the sensor
Paulagada: My 2005 Toyota Corolla (bank type) make rattling and annoying noise anytime I apply brake while on motion, what could be the cause? Help me please car gurus in the house.
From your investigation, where do you think the noise is coming from? The engine or the legs?
morinto: . Sorry to ask but did your car refuse to start again or can u tell me the symptoms in details? Thank u Because I want to call mechanic to check mine
A day after using an injector cleaner product, I was driving down the highway, then my car began to hesitate vigorously. I managed to drive it down to my office then ran a scan. It indicated that the system was running lean. I knew there was a blockage somewhere.
Luckily for me, I had the tools necessary to get the job done, so I proceeded to work out the fuel pump and low and behold, milky-feather like debris that weren't there a week ago (cus i examined it then) had saturated the tank. This I believe is because the injector cleaner only did half the job - it exposed all the impurities in the fuel system but was insufficient to expunge them.
Fortunately, I always carry a spare fuel pump in my boot so I changed it. The car ran well for about a week, then I had the same experience again. This was because the tank was still full of those debris... To solve this problem, someone recommended a very powerful fuel cleanser to me. One round of it and my tank was as clear as crystal.
To be thorough, u can also check ur injectors too as the impurities may have made their way there.
morinto: My Toyota corolla refuse to start. After sometimes it started and later he refuse to start even though the car crank. Don't know if it is the fuel because the day I bought fuel treatment that was the day the refuse to start
Open ur tank and examine your fuel filter... it may have been clogged by debris accelerated by the fuel treatment u used ... (trust me, I'm speaking from experience)
It might be a simple computer glitch.. Reset your car by removing the battery head for about 10mins, after which turn on ur headlight then switch it off after a few seconds to discharge any voltage in the system. After ward, plug back ur battery head and start the car and test.
If that doesn't work, run a scan and post the codes
martyns200: Good morning, I jus changed my radiator from single to a new double cell due to leakage from the single cell radiator. Thermostat is still intact and single fan inclusive(not connected directly) After driving the car on Saturday, Sunday morning I checked the water level in the radiator and saw the water is low, so I opened the coolant plastic and saw that the water there has overfilled more than the FULL level its meant to attain, which means that the excess of the water in the coolant plastic is meant to go back into the radiator when engine is cool and it didn't. Does that mean the car would likely overheat. Would love to hear your advise pls....When I called the mech, he said I would need to remove thermostat and connect far directly which am against.The car is a year old and it's a corolla 05 model..would love your inputs so as to take necessary precaution against the unforseen.
It's very likely your radiator cap. Just change it.
9icetoo: Can you compare sunful/winda to Michelin, pirelli, hankook, bridgestone, Yokohama? Them no be mates. When people advise tokunbo, they assume buyer will bear date of manufacture in mind. Tokunbo tyres from known brands made from 2018 are okay. I used to be in the new tyre camp until austone and double king dealt showed me that there is a difference between Panadol and paracetamol.
Ofcourse u can't compare WINDA to Michellin. I use both so I know the difference. So if u have the money, go with the superior brand, but if u don't, my opinion is stick with the later.