₦airaland Forum

@GAZZUZ

my car intermittently stalls, misfires and loses power from time to time whenever engine warms up properly.
It doesn't happen in the first few kilometers.
So I will like to know, is it MORE LIKELY that it is as a result of bad ignition coils or fuel pump?

LandlordHopeful:
If you don't tithe to church things would be tight for you. My GO even said you would end up in hell

You be Mumu.
confirm mumu

Do you have that of 1997 Infiniti J30?

TALKING FROM EXPERIENCE
If you buy any used Nissan vehicle, anything wey you see for there, take am like that.

ebuks4ever:
Year of car please

1997

INFINITI J30
6-cylinder

oga OP. That place is not IMT

feelme3:
Op. I had an infiniti I30 that had similar issues. After all long waka and spending money on different scan, I got a good mechanic that fixed it.

Culprit was fuel pump, which another kazeem recommend I buy toks. This guy got a new one installed, changed the Air filter and cleaned up plugs and nozzle. Car was driving like new.

Funny thing is that the mechanic is just at the entrance to my street but I will drive like 30mins away to fix any issue. Bottom line, buy new suitable fuel pump and see.

please can I have ur whatsapp contact?

AutoElectNG:
We never saw the end of this....

vehicle still jerking.
changed fuel pump and filter. I bought a new Belgium one that clocked 160 (don't know the SI) on their gauge. Car still jerks in motion.
went to change my shocks the other day and after explaining everything to the kazeem that changed the shocks, he (from his own random diagnosis) said that it is likely Injector (nozzle) that needs servicing. So that's what I am looking at doing this week.


I forgot to add.
I perceive fuel odour since after changing the pump.
The odour isn't coming from the hood.
My tank is in the Trunk. When I open that compartment, I see no visible leaks around the pump and the hood smells too.
Old fuel pump was reading 110
The one I bought reads 160 on the pressure gauge
(I don't know the SI )

autologic
Gazzuzz
AutoelectNG

autologic:
Enough of all these street jargons ,it is rather called "Fuel injectors " not " nozzle" like the way kazeem refer to it.Nairaland cartalk has evolved better than this

Nozzle and injector na the same na.

feelme3:
Op. I had an infiniti I30 that had similar issues. After all long waka and spending money on different scan, I got a good mechanic that fixed it.

Culprit was fuel pump, which another kazeem recommend I buy toks. This guy got a new one installed, changed the Air filter and cleaned up plugs and nozzle. Car was driving like new.

Funny thing is that the mechanic is just at the entrance to my street but I will drive like 30mins away to fix any issue. Bottom line, buy new suitable fuel pump and see.

I took it to someone that changed my shocks for me. he told me that IT'S SIMPLY DIRTY NOZZLES. We bargained price and told me that whenever I am ready, that I should bring it. That it's just nozzle.

I have a 3.0L V6 engine in an INFINITI sedan.
The engine tappets are knocking loudly.
My kazeem warned that I shouldn't go and bother myself repairing it because I might end up messing things up.
He suggested that I should be adding "oil treatment" anytime I change my engine oil.
please I'll like to know if I should heed to his advice or if there is something that I can do about it. Thank you.
Gazzuzz
AutoelectNG
radautoworks
autojosh

good morning.
please help me and check this out

JNKAY21D1VM503397

Tochukwuezeh91@gmail.com

Thank you guys for your wonderful contributions.i will set out as from tomorrow to see if I can get this problem sorted out. I really appreciate

empron:
96/2000 SOME HAVE DUAL DIAGNOSTIC PORTS OBD2 AND NISSAN 14 PIN.Look for Nissan consult or a professional scanner with Nissan 14 PIN connector,you will definitely get DTC.

He also said this.... but my vehicle has just obd2 port

autologic:
I doubt this ,it was scan tool that was used that cannot understand the protocol.
Early model Nissan/Infinity cannot work with Generic scan/Obd2 tool except OEM
Look for a more professional scan tool

really?
okay, I will do that

AutoElectNG:
Maybe.
But I would prefer to start by fixing the wiring between the ECU and the DLC.
Then do further tests before arriving at that conclusion.
ECU brainbox
DLC OBD II connector
His diagnostics appears a bit hasty.
You can't connect so ECU is bad?
Possible but farfetched
More in-depth diagnostics recommended

okay boss

AutoElectNG:
Fix the lack of communication with the ECU...we will then have codes and we can then make meaningful progress

The elect guy said that the only way to fix it is for me to buy a new brain box.....please is that true?

AutoElectNG:
Unless we work with data from the vehicle and extremely accurate report of what went on or wrong, we would be guessing, guessing is not a scientific way to fix a car.

It is possible the vehicle had wiring issues prior to your ownership, note the word possible, I did not say certain.

Where are you located by the way?

Enugu

tensazangetsu20:
What of a fuel pressure test?

Did that, it was okay.
But I have noticed that this thing doesn't usually happen when I move out initially in the morning.
it is after just few KM... like 3-4kms

diportivo:
car suddenly loses power

rev it in neutral and it's jerking and sputtering

a nissan titan comes to mind.....no misfire related codes

fuel pump change did the magic

this thing no need too much oyinbo....if it isn't sputtering then there's something else involved

okay, thank you.
I am looking into that line of action

AutoElectNG:
When you scan, no DTCs or no communication, what do you get?

Although it is possible to have issues without codes, these kinds of drivability issues should throw codes.

No communication with ECU

thebigkendo:
The person wey giviu this kind gift enh

lol

AutoElectNG:
Talking of fuel pump...did you install an exact fit? Brand new not used?

Never a wise decision to rely on used fuel pumps lifespan is not reliable

well, I installed a used one

AutoElectNG:
History before November 2017 please

.

That was when I got the car.
It was a gift actually

tensazangetsu20:
This would be interesting. Time to learn from the pros . Op did they run a compression test on the engine since it wasn't bringing out any codes.

I don't know sha.
The man was running so many tests, I can't say for certain if he did or not

AutoElectNG:
I humbly suggest that Live Data may be useful in the absence of any DTCs.

Alternatively, try scanning with a different device.

Have tried 5 devices.
The last person just concluded that since no codes are coming up, that the brain box is faulty

Pipedreams:
You might have a faulty Valve body that needs to be replaced. Tell him to check that. The vehicle's transmission computer isn't sending the right signals

hmmm

GAZZUZZ:
2 Corinthians 6:17

That's why I am here

AutoElectNG
GAZZUZZ

I have a 1997 Infiniti J30. Auto 3L V6.

November last year, the car started jerking while accelerating. It happens at all gears. And consumes fuel excessively.

When it does this, if you take ur foot off the gas pedal and gently acceralate, everything becomes normal.
Sometimes, you can drive for the next 5-10 mins without a reoccourance, some times, it might happen up to 4 times in the space of 5 mins.

REPAIR HISTORY

i took it to the first Mech, after test-driving, he said that it's the fuel pump.

I went and bought another fuel pump and replaced it. It improved but didn't solve the problem.

I took it to someone else who ran an OBD II scan. He said that it is a wiring problem (the car wiring has never been tampered, so he knows better). He ran repairs and for like 7 days, it didn't happen again.

After some time, it started again. Loses power, jerks too.

I was advised to change the plugs, I did. After few days, it started again. Jerks.... But doesn't lose power anymore.....although it sometimes hesitates during acceleration.

Took it to a recommended auto electrician.
He ran checks. OBD isn't recording any codes. He changed exhaust sensors, MAF, sparks plug and we ran a test drive..... The problem was still there.....and it looks like it's getting worse in frequency. A new twist came about during this test. when the jerk started on the road, instead of hitting the breaks and getting it back to normal, he deliberately shifted the gear to neutral and pushed down the gas pedal. The sound/ firing wasn't that okay. It was akin as if it was jerking but the only difference now is that the car is not in motion.
once u hit the brakes, it stops immediately and MAY start jerking in less than 30 seconds

Now, a mechanic in that same shop called me aside and told me that I should go and buy another fuel pump.... That it will solve the problem. I told him that I did that before and he said that.... there's a possibility that the one I bought earlier may also be faulty.

please, I need an advice.

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