dru23: i agree with you 1000%.. .. i dont know much about cars at all. but i use common sense when dealing with certain situations.. can you believe few mechanics wanted me to change my A/C compressor from automatic to Manual.? i was told that manual compressor was the best and it does not spoil easily etc.. And i thought to myself if the car manufacture wanted the manual compressor , am sure they would have done that long time ago. People should stop converting car manufacture specifications to their own needs... A/C compressor do have a life span , and once that life span expires a new compressor should be replaced. simple as 1,2,3
thebigkendo: Wait oh.. I am trying to understand something.. Civic 03 - 06 already has a manual(clutch) compressor which other manual compressor they wan install for dru23 again?
ogtavia: Hi Gazzuzz.. Nice car, congratulations on this sale.
Please I would like your expert advice on this ; which model year of the Toyota Camry would prefer from 2010 - 2013? Can you place more emphasis on the 2012 - 2013.
Thank you.
NB; Vehicle variants is LE 2.5L. God bless you as you reply.
dru23: at what expense ? at the engine expense ? you basically over working the car engine...... such thing will never be done in a sane country .. but each to his own
dru23: i agree with you 1000%.. .. i dont know much about cars at all. but i use common sense when dealing with certain situations.. can you believe few mechanics wanted me to change my A/C compressor from automatic to Manual.? i was told that manual compressor was the best and it does not spoil easily etc.. And i thought to myself if the car manufacture wanted the manual compressor , am sure they would have done that long time ago. People should stop converting car manufacture specifications to their own needs... A/C compressor do have a life span , and once that life span expires a new compressor should be replaced. simple as 1,2,3
dru23: i agree with you 1000%.. ..i dont know much about cars at all . but i use common sense when dealing with certain situations.. can you believe few mechanics wanted me to change my A/C compressor from automatic to Manual.? i was told that manual compressor was the best and it does not spoil easily etc.. And i thought to myself if the car manufacture wanted the manual compressor , am sure they would have done that long time ago. People should stop converting car manufacture specifications to their own needs... A/C compressor do have a life span , and once that life span expires a new compressor should be replaced. simple as 1,2,3
Boson3010: Dear Gazzuz, I have a 2009 BMW 750Li The car came with balloon rear shocks Initially the rear driver shock goes down after aprking the vehicle for a while but comes up when the vehicle is started. I later discovered that the rear passenger shock was doing the same thing but the rear driver side stopped. Later both shocks were goig down while am on motion and sometimes they will go down when parked or they wont even after parking for two days. This is highly abnormal, not sure if its a sensor problem or leaking balloons. Can you help? assist bro
seems they are leaking. Could also be a valve. Unfortunately cannot be diagnosed remotely .
Stigg: Hello, Help is needed with this car. A corolla 2009 (dubai) 1.8l, auto trans.
Car has heavy vibrations, a rough idle and rpm at idle is low, btw (500 to 600) when in DRIVE and (550 to 650) in NEUTRAL. This is after car is warmed up. When a/c comes on, rpm first drops (300-400) then increases to about 800 and car is more balanced (less vibrations) but very sluggish between gears 1,2 and 3.
Things noticed in the car. - heavy vibration at idle (better in N worse in D) - slow acceleration (especially when a/c is on) - loss of power (difficult to overtake, difficult going uphill) - delayed shift in gears & slipping gears - High fuel consumption (seems to be getting worse) - Recently I noticed oil reduction. After oil change, oil level dropped to about half within a month. - Noticed some leakages around the cylinder head.(No leakages on the floor where I park)
I have had this problem for over a year but its visibly getting worse.
Work on the car so far. -Changed 3 of the 4 coils earlier in the year. -Changed spark plugs -Serviced & cleaned throttle body (electrical one) -Nozzles tested/serviced - Serviced transmission and oil change -Changed car engine earlier in the year due to overheating (problem was and still present after engine change)
Recently -Changed throttle body -Changed alternator (rewire said it was an electrical issue) - problem not solved - Changed engine mount - still heavy vibrations - Nozzles, coils and spark plugs have been checked and are said to be fine. Also the O2 sensors, Mass Air flow, throttle pedal inside the car were checked. - A pressure test was done on the radiator, it was said to be ok. - Compression test was done on all cylinders, they were said to be ok. - Injector nozzles and fuel pump were tested as well.
The only observation from the tests was that engine was running rich.
Vehicle had displayed no error code until last 2 weeks, put in a thermostat because there wasn't any and fan was run directly. car displayed a code afterwards but didn't check till the next day when a brain box was tested with the engine.
The code is P0010 came up afterwards.(The codes P0717 and P0335 came up on the previous engine but didn’t on the new one)
Catalytic converter was taken out last week (problem still persist)
The mechanics have advised that the engine be opened up examined but I have told them to hold on.
Kindly Help.
Your timing is supposed to be variable, is stuck.
Possible causes
1. Mechanic or part seller welded your vvti actuator/s
2. Engine is filled with sludge.
Also consider replacing your radiator with a brand new unit.
inikamoze: I need your advice. I have a corolla 2005 I bought last year(Nigerian Used), I put it up for Uber when I first bought it and had to take it back after 2months after seeing the deplorable state the guy had put the car in. Lately I decided to put it back on the road for Uber again and did some fixes and changes to make it Uber standard. I did a full suspension change, changed the whole AC unit( compressor, condenser,evaporator) then had the mounts changed cause it has been vibrating, but even after the four mounts have been changed the car still vibrates. The plugs were recently changed(I cannot ascertain this coz my brother took the car out, it developed some problems and his mechanic claimed to have changed the plugs and a coil). The car is now in shape but the Uber driver says the vibration still persists. What could be the cause if this annoying vibration? PLEASE HELP!!!
VDC compressors are very sensitive to contamination and incorrect installation or refill proceedure. Also very sensitive to excessive heat from condenser area (fan failure)
Major reasons for failure.
1. Self destruction . Kia/Hyundai made in nigeria From 2012 till 2016 had very bad designs and would usually packup without any external interference between the 30-50k km mark. Replacing just the compressor and eliminating the low speed cooling fan setting to high has worked out perfectly.
The Honda Accord 2008-2012 have an issue with the air-conditioning electronics, in most cases the compressor never cuts off, this causes the evaporator to freeze over and short term the evaporator will leak.
2. Fixing a leak and refilling without vacuuming.
99per of all failure starts here especially with foreign used vehicles. Compressor will develop black death and the strainer inside the solenoid that controls the swash plate gets clogged, the solenoid is able to actuate but flow stops. Symptoms of this failure in early stages is an AC system that stops working after running for a while, but resumes when turned off and on again.
3. Cooling fan failure. Cooling fan failure will destroy your VDC compressor prematurely irrespective of being brand new or used.
4. A blocked condenser. Going back to my title I mentioned NIGERIA not USA . You will notice that most car users in the Akure/Lambe/Ogun State region usually have more compressor failure than those in Ikoyi . The reason is mud getting stuck in condenser fins. This causes the high side of the air-conditioning system to spike and short term damage to compressor .
5. Contamination from the system itself .
. A/C components are not designed to work forever (except the Camry 2000 used by dr Olorundare and dare ) The pipes do wear out after long term use and gradually compromise the dryer and compressor. The fins on condenser gradually wear out due to age and become less effective at dissipating heat.
After prolonged use of air-conditioning possibly 10-15 years, if there is failure it's probably best to replace most parts of the system.
Damage due to substandard parts: Substandard parts like compressors have been know to grind to a halt after short term use, also some after market condensers have been know to leak prematurely from joints and weldings. Always best to get original parts and brand names.
6. The use of no gauges. This year I have had over 50 clients that came in for a/c fixes. Usual complain was no cooling especially when the sun was really hot. Hooking up our equipment etc see 240-270psi on the high side sadly their technician had no tools to regulate the refill of refrigerant and put too much. In most cases all we had to do was release a little gas and system would go back to normal.
7. Electrical glitches misdiagnosed. In a lot of cases there is nothing wrong with the a/c system and the technician working with no tools and no scanner goes around fixing what was never bad.
Let me give an example here. The Toyota or Lexus with dual vvti on both banks will instruct the air-conditioning module to halt if for any reason it notices a DTC related to timing inefficiency . Meaning of car threw a p0018 the AC would work for a minute or two then stop. In a situation like this vehicle might end up butchered if in the wrong hands.
Low rpm would cause a VDC system to remain dysfunctional, so cleaning the throttle body to ensure 750~850 rpm before diagnosis is important .
Faulty or wrong charging systems. Alternator voltage above 15v or below 11v would mess up the air-conditioning system or damage the module, it could also cause errors to be found on the module that do not exist. Always good to confirm charging voltage before working.
I'm getting late for work so let me just roundup with this.
The choice between a manual compressor and an automatic is usually due to financial capacity , available parts, technical know how and reliability.
Replacing the condenser to switch from VDC to manual is not really necessary and a waste of money.
Are manual compressors reliable YES. They can swim in a lot of dirt and still function if that is what you want to hear.
There are engine designs that would never accommodate a switch, usually the engine sizes from 1.2- 1.8liter variants. It would come with a lot of shuddering and vibration.
So when you can if you can, just do the right thing.
Modified. An a/c technician cannot work on modern day cars without working with Modern day tools and perfect understanding of the workings of the drivetrain.