I just completed this CNG retrofit on a 2009 Ford F150 with a V8 4.6L natural aspirated Engine .
The vehicle is now fitted with 3 CNG tanks with a combined capacity of 165L (48 SCM @210bar)
Vehicle now boasts of 300km Highway travel on 48SCM which is an equivalent of ₦9600 @ ₦200 per SCM. For better description the distance of Lagos to Benin is about 295km.
Now this is nothing new to CNG retrofits as it brings down the cost of fueling most vehicles by 70% in ₦.
What is unique about this vehicle is it's ability to provide Natural Gas for external use for equipment like Generators, and cooking utensils.
This again brings down the cost of powering your petrol powered gen by about 70%.
In place of LPG it is currently 200% cheaper to burn Natural gas as against LPG.
We have an abundance of natural Gas reserves in Nigeria , hopefully we can all tap into this God given free gift to lower our expenses.
Victorprofan: So I have a Hyundai sante fe 2007 3.3ltrs engine. Each time I accelerate to 20km/HR or more, I get a lot of vibrations on the car,felt strongly at the steering. The vibrations reduces at higher speeds. And also wen I carry passengers/loads, any small pothole or rough road I enter, it will seem as if the car isn't balanced anymore and tilts towards that direction a bit.
On my Hyundai Accent 2012 1.6L engine, high RPM is 1500 in the morning and I rarely have time to see if it will adjust but when I put the AC ON and Drive, RPM is 1000 and also acceleration is sticky but when I'm about to apply brake it jerks like is about to speed up.
then in the afternoon under hot sun RPM is below 800, idling is not steady going up and doing and also vibrate with Ac ON
Only error code is P0030 and that's H02S bank 1 sensor1
Good morning sir, please help me
Tuned to operate this way by your ac technician who modified the system.
So I'm still having issues with this sound. A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there. When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted. After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started. Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained. This sound is only present at idle and in gear and even louder when the fans kick in. So basically loaded engine at idle. And when this happens, there's significant vibration. My idle remains between 750 and 850rpm. The sound is completely absent when the engine is at idle without any load. It is also absent when you rev the car eve a little bit. It is absent while driving. Car has full power. I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back. I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component. Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.
apexquest: Good evening Gazzuzz and other life saving tech gurus in the house. My car's brake/tail light has refused to go off. I have to remove battery head to avoid drain.
I scanned with my Bluetooth scanner and got the response below.
Where is the particular switch mentioned located What should we do??
Vehicle stuck in park, brake lights permanently on.
Parts used.
₦300 slippers (you get 6 stoppers )
I noticed I should have added more detail to the video, sadly not enough space to go under the dash and film at same time, kindly use your imagination, I will find a brake lever system some time in the future to show how to install stopper.