₦airaland Forum

legalwealth:
Everyone shouldn't get confused on this issue.

Mobil Oil Nigeria Plc will officially be here any moment to clear the ground that using Mobil XHP engine oil

cc superescue

won't damage let alone knock engine over the time if used consistently to service car in as much other things like catalytic converter, 02 sensors etc are always checked working fine and check engine light is not always left on for long.

I've consistently used Mobil XHP engine oil for my Honda accord EOD 05 for 2 years with good maintenance culture and the engine has never failed to start for once let alone be stranded for once. The engine is still very sound and sharp even more than that of most Tokunbos of the same car.

I just finished speaking with them on their line 01-2801600 copied from https://www.nigeriagalleria.com/Galleria_Finance/Nigeria_Company_Profiles/Oil_and_Gas/Mobil_Oil_Nigeria_Plc.html and anyone can call them to ask questions and as well get more enlightened regarding this. Thanks

legalwealth:
Psycologically analysing his responses, he is and has been sounding like someone pained that someone just busted him in sensible conversations.

Unbiased minds and people will pretty understand and appreciate my points raised and things shed light on.

No one has been able to answer my question on the reason Mobil stopped selling the so-called synthetic engine oil after selling it in Nigeria for just 2 years. But they made the Mobil XHP readily available and as well recommending it for the servicing of cars; are you people trying to tell me that Mobil does not know what they are doing or is it that Nigerians can't afford to buy the oil?

I'm still and have been waiting for the answer to that question! No one has the right to be calling those using other engine oil they prefer with reasons known to them fools/idiots all because he/she wants to sell so-called imported engine oil that is not always readily available in the Nigeria market. I believe that anyone doing or acting such is the president of fools/idiots! !!

Ok let me help you explain why you still have 20w50 oils on the shelves of most petrol stations and partsellers.


In the 60's and 70's and 80's and early 90's the vehicles on Nigerian roads where designed for the 20w50 weight, their engine designs had larger oil passages, and they were not equipped with OCVs (oil control valves) and variable timing. If you can remember well they had distributors and carburetors back then.

Fast forward to (example honda) 2003 the accords came with timing chains and a variable timing, meaning the distributors were no longer required, and greater efficiency in fuel management could be achieved by varying the timing settings of the engine.

To achieve this, the oil passages of newer engines were modified in the cylinder area, smaller oil passages that required quick delivery of oil for smooth function of the VTECH system or in the Toyota the VVTI other brands call them different names, but same principle applys.

In order for this system to work properly lighter weight oils were required in design.

In some cases only full synthetic oils were required for proper function of the engine (VW FSI engines)

Now we done with the summary of why the engines need the right oil, let's move to why they are not popular.


First reason is acceptance. For most vehicle users, they have a tradition of believing every thing said by their mechanics, and if the mechanics says mobil has the best oil, they go with it, same way a lot of people were deceived into buying peugeot 407 for uber business

Now for the mechanic, this is what happend to his mode of thinking.

1. Technology evolved, but he didn't move with it. His Oga used mobil, his ogas Oga used mobil so why should he not follow the ways of the elders?

Same way they remove thermostats and wire fans directly.

2nd reason is price. Full synthetic oils are nearly 3times the price of mineral oil. (The good ones)

3rd is profit. If you know how engine oil is derived from the by product of fractional distillation of crude oil, you will understand the profit in selling mineral oil.

full synthetic oils are not by-product of crude oil, but are chemical based (the good ones) and require more processes for the final product.

As a business entity, your first goal is to make profit.

the engine oils labels 20w50 are still applicable in most vehicles older than 2000 (trucks and heavy-duty machinery inclusive) but since they labeled their products accordingly and people were still buying, why would they not sell.

finally another thing that happened was new cars (foreign used) came into the country they had been using the right oils before they came in, and when they got into Nigeria, they started using the wrong oils for long periods of time, then the oil marketers introduced the right weights into the market, and some people switched brands, next problem was engines began shorting oil and smoking and knocking why? Because they had abused the engines for a long time before they tried the right oils.

The oil marketers started to loose customers, and patronage on the synthetic brands were not so good, so they stuck to what works, good old 20w50, your grandfather used it, you should use it to.

I hope you are clear now?

legalwealth:
Psycologically analysing his responses, he is and has been sounding like someone pained that someone just busted him in sensible conversations.

Unbiased minds and people will pretty understand and appreciate my points raised and things shed light on.

No one has been able to answer my question on the reason Mobil stopped selling the so-called synthetic engine oil after selling it in Nigeria for just 2 years. But they made the Mobil XHP readily available and as well recommending it for the servicing of cars; are you people trying to tell me that Mobil does not know what they are doing or is it that Nigerians can't afford to buy the oil?

I'm still and have been waiting for the answer to that question! No one has the right to be calling those using other engine oil they prefer with reasons known to them fools/idiots all because he/she wants to sell so-called imported engine oil that is not always readily available in the Nigeria market. I believe that anyone doing or acting such is the president of fools/idiots! !!

be a man, think one thing, say one thing.

Bros, why fight dey hungry you like this

no I will not take it!!

is he still breathing?

you and who?

yes daddy

legalwealth:
Silence will be the answer for your type henceforth... I'm sure you know what that means; you can continue.

legalwealth:
My engine can never knock;

it can and will. Let me explain why.

1. You already have a buildup of sludge in your engine,
if you want to be sure, take off the valve cover and post the pictures.

2. Engine is already shorting oil, oil burn will get worse and with time excessive wear on cam and crankshaft

you can as well ask the other guy on this thread that said he bought a car from someone using the same spec of oil

he asked for directions so he will not get lost,
he has been directed.

which he also continued using has seen his engine knock. Don't forget I said that there are other things aside engine oil that need attention. Some things like Catalytic converter, 02 sensor etc in the sense that if one is even using manufacturer specific oil and those things are not in place or in good condition or working perfectly, engine can knock at any time.

wrong. Those things you mentioned are for emissions only, you will only get better fuel mileage.

Google is your friend

Not using manufacturer specified engine oil is not the major cause of engine knocking for those that don't know! !!

as you rightly said previously, you are not a mechanic, so you have no. locus standi to the highlighted.

Now as a mechanic I can tell you it is the major reason a car will come into Nigeria after being used for 10years outside the country, and in 2years you will be looking for a new engine.


I have a 1998 toyota avensis, it has never used mineral oil for one day, the inside of the engine is sludge free, and does not short engine oil.

legalwealth:
I never made a mistake, I read the manual and I know there are highly inconsistent sellers and inconsistent availability(extremely scarcity of the oil spec in Nigeria) of the said engine oil but I decided to go for option of engine oil that is readily available anywhere in Nigeria.

this is understandable, but the sequence of oil change is terribly wrong. Mineral engine oil degrades quickly and looses viscosity. For best results using mineral oil, do not exceed 3000km not miles

The engine oil spec has also been confirmed even by some people on this thread to be working fine though it might only

by design of manufacture, the engine was not designed for heavy oil weight

be applicable to those with high sense and culture of maintenance. Sure you are using general lack of maintenance that most
Nigerians including yourself to biasely judge but you sure must count me out of them

I have no idea what you just wrote here

If you don't know and for you to know; engine oil is not the only and major thing that needs to be maintained in a car.

Common sense is not common though! !!

not common at all

legalwealth:
Engine oil is not the major cause but your lack of maintenance culture does.

legalwealth:
I'm sure you know that he who calls someone an idiot is the president of idiots; that is what you are! !!

NextProdigy:
You sound very genuine but you might need to prove your genuineness.

Why don't you get a car on rental and save up money weekly? Each week, your saved up funds can be posted here until a principal feels comfortable enough to accept it as a deposit and give you the car you desire on hire purchase.

If you don't have the money at least you have the time. Each week that goes by is potential income lost for you.

Best regards.

Alvin007:
I never knew. Thanks Gazzuzz

GAZZUZZ:
Geovidal let me teach you a quick way to know your gear is good.

Go to workshop, start car, put it in drive, depress accelerator, if the speedometer moves gear is fine,
call police

Cadillac15:
Master, are you joking or serious

Cosplay:
True. A lot is different, from the wheels to the roof.
But what are the odds that the provided vin matched this very same model and year? But may not be same vehicle?
Rather interesting coincidence.

lekanlaniyan:
My brother, how do u knw is converted?

The gear selection pattern is different from other corolla.

Thanks for your answer.

Cosplay:
Any details?

jaxxy:
Ok I'm just seeing all this. I don't think that's the car cos wat im seeing seems ridiculous. I got d car from at importer frnd so I need to verify this also.

No fear, urs has no sunroof

dcole73:
Please, do you also sell the recommended Mobil atf for Accords?

plusfield:
Gazzuzz, i changed the plugs of a car but parked the car for about six months. Someone advised that i should change the plugs again before driving it, especially as am about to make a long distance trip with it.

the person must be into car spare parts


Your plugs are fine

geovidal:
please how much does the corolla 04 gear cost.

igbsam:
Anyone got good used battery for sale ?

why will they sell it?

dandollar1:
Hello,
I have been having this issue with my 2007 Honda Accord I4 for a very long time now, and it is getting worse.

1. The car auto revs on its own in park and neutral . Once you start it, goes Voom! Voom! Voom! With the tach going up and down continously.

2. It jerks with a thud, when changing from park to reverse or from neutral to drive.

3. On motion, the vehicle drives itself as there is no throttle response and does not exceed 40km/hr. There is also a slight thud when it shifts from gear 1-2 and when downshifting too. I can only control it with the brake at this point. The engine sound is also very high.

Initially, this issues happen intermittently , in that, the car would drive well for like a month, and then the issue will come up suddenly, say for 2 days and everything becomes normal afterwards, but it has been very consistent recently and the car is beginning to stall on motion.

Overtime, I have scanned the car and got codes related to throttle body, throttle position sensor,and online checks suggest the culprit could also be a vacuum leak.

I have replaced about 3-4 throttle bodies, the latest being a brand new one I ordered online.I have also replaced my intake tube,ECU, replaced sensor plugs,e.t.c, still the issue has persisted.

Presently, I have codes P2135 and P2176.

I have been going about this diagnosis myself because I stay in bonny island

how and what equipment have you been using?

,Rivers State, and here, there are no competent mechanics or auto electricians that can tell me what the problem is.

I would appreciate if anyone with such experience could point out what I could do to resolve the issue or refer me to a very competent auto mech or electrician in port Harcourt that could help me resolve this issue.

Thank you.

teeboy99:
baba Gazzuzz. please which I want to replace the spark plugs in my 2008 Honda accord. the manual says NGK DILZKR7A11GS. I have been searching all round and I couldn't find this. Any alternative?

dandollar1:
Hello,
I have been having this issue with my 2007 Honda Accord I4 for a very long time now, and it is getting worse.

1. The car auto revs on its own in park and neutral . Once you start it, goes Voom! Voom! Voom! With the tach going up and down continously.

2. It jerks with a thud, when changing from park to reverse or from neutral to drive.

3. On motion, the vehicle drives itself as there is no throttle response and does not exceed 40km/hr. There is also a slight thud when it shifts from gear 1-2 and when downshifting too. I can only control it with the brake at this point. The engine sound is also very high.

Initially, this issues happen intermittently , in that, the car would drive well for like a month, and then the issue will come up suddenly, say for 2 days and everything becomes normal afterwards, but it has been very consistent recently and the car is beginning to stall on motion.

Overtime, I have scanned the car and got codes related to throttle body, throttle position sensor,and online checks suggest the culprit could also be a vacuum leak.

I have replaced about 3-4 throttle bodies, the latest being a brand new one I ordered online.I have also replaced my intake tube,ECU, replaced sensor plugs,e.t.c, still the issue has persisted.

Presently, I have codes P2135 and P2176.

I have been going about this diagnosis myself because I stay in bonny island,Rivers State, and here, there are no competent mechanics or auto electricians that can tell me what the problem is.

I would appreciate if anyone with such experience could point out what I could do to resolve the issue or refer me to a very competent auto mech or electrician in port Harcourt that could help me resolve this issue.

Thank you.

geovidal:
Morning Oga Gazzuzz, I 've carried out the test, It's only the one on the left side (RPM) that moves when I depressed the accelerator. They also inspect the shaft, and found no problem. My mech took me to a someone that specializes in transmission repairs and gave me assurance that he can repair it or to change it completely. Please I need professional advice before I take action. Can transmission really be repaired? Or save money to buy another transmission, what is the likely cost? Thanks

baxton25:
I want to register a Lexus es 330 2006 model on uber and taxify,and it's a 3.3ltr,please any advise on this?
It's a bit luxurious tho.

codest:
50k

your head de there!