Kablooee's Posts
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Where did you get yours from? Carrot from codecard has the diagram bundled with it. If u got the original that is. Else you can run a search on Google for any particular one. I can help you with some anyway. |
We also have all toyota/lexus smart keys (GENUINE) |
Day11 always on point. The most honest nairalander I know. |
Well done. |
Seriously why all these "frypan to fire" approach? Fuel injection to carburetor? To begin, let her return to d factory system, scan d vehicle and post results. |
Have you guys sorted out your ecu problems? |
Don't destroy the locks of your vehicle. We can get you in even when you're totally locked out. |
Thumbs up man, so much inspiration, I've worked on a couple of highlanders 06-08 here in Nigeria too, changed HV battery, inverters and the hybrid ecu as d case may be. Learning more from here. Tnx Siena. Please continue |
Call me 08036851111. What model of vehicle? You can send details to keys@adeizaautos.com |
Staying tuned! I'll eat, sleep and party on this thread. |
Yes we have. Drop your mail or send a mail to info@adeizaautos.com |
xyjoe: Pls i have toyota corolla 2004 with VIN 2T1BR38E34C295865 which ECU do i go for. Mine was burgled. Thanks for your prompt response in anticipation.ECU part number :89666-02300 |
seyola: Mine is Toyota Camry 2003 model Chasis no 4T1BE30K43U188866,Automatic,and for plug engine.Pls which ecu will be compatible with it to replace the stolen one.Your prompt response will be highly appreaciated.Thanks.Your exact part number is 89661-0X020 It is completely interchangeable with the ones below 89661-0X010 89661-0X030 89661-0X040 89661-0X050 |
yeballs: please my car brain box was stolen and i have a particular one now in ht but the car is misbehaving please here is my car Vin 1NXBR32E54Z326444 HOW do i know the ECU number that would fit in thanks please kindly assist my email is yeballs@yahoo.comThe original ECU belonging to your vehicle has the part number : 89661-0Z092 |
Original factory honda keys. |
All Vehicles |
Hello! In order to serve you better, we now cut keys using the VIN of your vehicle so you don't need to pull out your ignition barrel anymore when you don't have any key. NB. Genuine owners and dealers only, we verify ownership before making any spare or lost key. keys@adeizaautos.com |
What was the result of the scan from the mechanic before he conclude he would change some spiritual sensors. |
And "follow come" is? |
Ikenna351: "move with technology"You're so on point. I've got both auto and manual trans but I prefer the manual. I enjoy being in control. |
Read this and decide what's best for you. Personally I warm up engine for few minutes before driving off. The reason that engineers recommended the "drive away" warm-up, as opposed to allowing the engine to warm up at idle was that the faster the warm-up, the lower the build up of harmful condensation within the engine and exhaust systems. So, if you are only going to drive a short distance, you (your car's engine, actually) are better off just driving away after a very brief (30 seconds or so) warm-up, thereby allowing the engine to warm up quickly, and minimize the amount of harmful or corrosive condensation build-up, before shutting down. The majority of the engine wear occurs immediately upon start-up, no matter whether you drive right away or sit and warm it up. Your engine will incur less frictional wear if you let it warm up at idle (at as low an rpm as it will run at) than if you just drive away. However, if you slowly warm it up at idle and then drive only a short distance before shutting down, the condensation formed in the crankcase (which didn't get a chance to evaporate/boil-off during the short drive) will then work it's mischief. This is the main reason that more frequent oil changes are recommended, by manufacturers, during cold weather months; to get rid of that condensation. So, if you want to "drive right away", not only should you keep the revs down (but avoid lugging, at all cost), but you should keep the engine load / throttle opening very light. If you drive a cold engine, right away, under high load / high throttle settings, your engine will wear very rapidly indeed. A "static" warm up is good, provided you are going to drive the car long enough for the condensation to evaporate / boil-off, before reaching your destination. Personally, on puma, I use a combination of the two. I let it warm up, at idle, for a few minutes at as close to 1000rpm as I can manage (usually it's between 1200-1500), then drive away very gently for the first several miles, until the oil temp gauge clears the left green "spot". Of course, I live in a rural area, where I can do this without getting in everyone's way. Those of you in built-up areas, with lots of traffic, probably won't have the luxury of allowing the engine to come up to operating temperature, before you might need to use a heavy application of power. In other words, no one's situation will be exactly alike, so, we all need to do what suits our car's needs vs. traffic and weather conditions to keep engine wear to a minimum. |
Samsung galaxy note 3 |
Do place a call , we are registered professional locksmith. Give us a trial and you will report here. Tnx |
Give me a call and it will be done tomorrow. Tnx. 08022747777 |
Give me a call, we can do it for you tomorrow. 08022747777 |
Maclatunji, I respected you more than this, how can you post a write up on something this sensitive without reading it first? Now someone asked a question and you're directing him to the author. Am disappointed. |
aribitoye: mine is saying your connection to the wireless network is turned off...and my airtel is active, must it use wi-fi? Pls helpJust restart your phone and you're good to go. |
Lol... Noted. Tnx |
Since your vehicle battery ran down, I think the only problem you're having is the remote sync with the vehicle, can u post a pix of your remote and your key. |
lomomike: so u have been awaiting him to make an err all these while so that you'll celebrate? Even car manufacuturers don't always get it right everytime. well he migh be wrong but he is still good and he knows his onions but I still believe he is learning new things too. I've personally learnt a lot from him and I am still gonna learn alot. Mr siena keep up the good workNo i have not been waiting , you need not post like a child, ive always followed sienas post and i have learnt a lot from him and even mailed him a couple of times for assistance so please don't read the wrong meaning to my post. Costee: Does that mean that the car will remain immobilized should the battery of the key fob (or intelligent key) run down following disuse for a lengthy period of time? What's your advice?not exactly, if yours has a transponder chip inside the key, like "Oga" siena rightly said, that will serve as an alternative way to start the vehicle but not in all models. your remote can also go out of sync and need to be reprogrammed back to the vehicle which is quiet easy. |
Siena: The remote lock / unlock is seperate from the IMMO transponder.For once the great siena is wrong, yes the remote central lock disables/activates the immobilizer on several Jags, freelander, Renault etc. |
Alfa Seltzer: Death is coming nearer. ![]() |
