I think 2003 Camry uses cable-control throttle body.

I am almost 100% sure that the inner opening of the idle air control valve of OP's car has been blocked using small rag or foam.
The mechanic then adjusted the throttle flap opening to raise the idle rpm above 1000rpm to compensate the engine (to saty around 800rpm) and prevent it from stalling whenever loads like AC or gears are engaged.

First check the idle air control valve for blockage. I suspect perhaps the valve is stiff or not functioning, and that is why the mechanic blocked the opening.
You may need to change it. Also check that the wiring (3 wire) is ok.
After changing the IAC valve, adjust the throttle back to it's original position. The system should be okay.

I will suggest to do this first before looking at the O2 sensor issue.
Using a live data from a good obd2 scanner will give a more accurate diagnosis of the O2 sensor issue.

All the best

obidevine:
Chief Gazzuzz I greet you specially. Please my car "engine maintenance required" light, flashes exactly 7 times when I turn the car on. I serviced my car 2 weeks ago changed oil and filter with the recommended oil weight. I used nordkapp 0W20. And I set my mileage counter trip A and B back to zero after servicing.

It's a 2012 Camry.


What could be the cause of this ?

The vehicle manufacturer program the light to come on 5000 miles after previous oil change just to remind users of periodic oil change.
You will have to turn it off manually.

- Switch on the car, set the trip meter to Trip A and switch off the car.
- As the car engine is off, press and hold down the trip meter button (using your left hand).
- While still holding down the trip meter button, turn the ignition key to on position (without cranking the engine) and wait to observe the "Maint Req" light blinks a few times and go off.
You are done.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCaoE1pD3_A?si=2cTaj29f3Rkau8Dr

O2 spacer is used to fix P0420 code (catalytic converter inefficient), though it only hide the issue and not fix it. You can Google it up.

On the 3 types of catalytic converter. What I know is that the new ones are mostly china made which are somehow inferior. I read they last for roughly 2 yrs. The tokunbo and work ones are somehow same. Work ones are cut off from tokunbo so that they can be sold separately to those who cannot afford complete tokunbo exhaust with catalytic converter.

Maybe we should keep the catalytic converter issue aside since you said none of the codes obtained are related to catalyst.

It is possible that while replacing your engine top gasket, the mechanic mishandled/rough-handled the O2 sensor wiring harness. So I still suggest you inspect the harness carefully as I described in my previous post.

This case is a bit complex.
First, the fact that you have been driving the car for months without manifold catalytic converter may not mean the code was not there then, unless you are telling us there was no check engine light at all on your dash all those period. This is because if your car systems work well and your manifold catalytic converter is missing, the downstream O2 must flag this with P0420 code (or unless you have a O2 spacer installed to hide the issue).

Also, let me ask if you are sure the reoccurred codes are under New codes or Confirmed codes and not under Permanent codes. Some cars (though I think from around 2008 model) are program to transfered cleared code to permanent codes and can only clear itself after travelling around 200 miles having resolved the issue that caused the code to set.

Now back to the code P1130 & P1135. These codes looks more of a circuit wiring or connection issue than a mechanical one on the O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold (just before the manifold catalytic converter).
- Please check the wiring harness on the engine side. There may be a short, or disconnection.
- Inspect the wires immediately behind the harness. They may be wrinkled and cut internally.
- You or your rewire may need to carry out some continuity test with digital multimeter just to be sure the engine side wirings are fine.

I also suspect the new O2 sensor you got is a tokunbo not brand new. If yes, it may also be weak and performing like your condemned one. The ECU sets those codes when the O2 is not working at all or when it is working but the report being fed to the ECU is outside the programmed specifications.

Finally, both codes are related to O2 sensor 1 but I feel the issue is around the circuit wiring.

All the best.

Going...

Available

Megamayorconcep:
1.5 ??

No please.

Still available

Available

Available for inspection

Interior pics

Still available

This is a clean well maintained 2003 Corolla with very sound engine and gear plus chilling AC.
~ Not first body but very very neat.
~ Untampered engine. Yes it is true
~ Great/well shifting gear
~ Chilling AC
~ Alloy wheel
~ Good tyres and shock absorbers

Available for inspection around Ife and Akure environs

Price: 2m last
WhatsApp only pls : 08059399331

olopan:
Then you need to upgrade your panels to produce more power; attached is power production of a typical tier 2 panel

I don't know much about the batteries you listed but I am sure many others who use it can give a better insight

Thank you for the input. I will observe the output of my solar array if it needs more panels.

Please experts, I still need advice on good LiFePO4 battery brands with reliable BMS.

samnaija:


Please when dealing with batteries never say you will do away with charging especially with nepa. It is always good once a while to charge with nepa or gen. The voltage is constant. If you can't fix the inverter get an external charger.

Thanks for the advice. I agree with you on this.

olopan:
Let's assume you
1. Plan to charge with grid and solar - your inverter will charge your battery at bulk/absorption but at float it won't make sense to charge with it being a pre-program parameters

Seek for an inverter with editable parameters or continue to use your inverter but never use grid to charge since you don't plan to monitor

2. Assuming your charge controller is editable, your panels is enough to charge your batteries without loads

3. Since your loads is unknown in your quote, it is safe to assume it abides by 50% DoD of your LA Batteries else you might undersize for the lithium battery too

4. LiFePO4 is a safer chemistry over Li-ion so there is little to zero chance of explosion while charging

5.if yoir battery is built with a good BMS then you only need to install and forget while focusing on productive activities

Thank you for your input @ olopan.

I am actually not thinking of charging my system wt Grid/Nepa but following what samnaija advised, I can make use of external charger for the proposed LiFePO4.

From the CC fact sheet, I think its parameters are customizable.

I am actually considering LiFePo4 of 24v 200Ah or 5kw capacity so I feel I am not undersizing.

Now talking about LiFePO4 with good BMS, this is why I need advice on good brands. How is tactel, Max, Felicity (low trust) or .......?

gadgetplanetng:


You can define charge settings on that so it's okay.

http://www.chinasuoer.com/mppt-solar-controller/325.html

Experts can take over from here.

Thanks so much especially with the fact sheet.

gadgetplanetng:


If the inverter doesn't charge the battery then that doesn't matter.
What matters is the CC and if it has the adequate settings

Thanks for being there.

That means I should not bother on the Inverter since I am not charging the battery wt Nepa.

Attached is the pics of my CC, I wish it is compatible wt LiFePO4 charging.

Also, I am looking at that tactel LiFePO4 brand like the one adrusa bought.
I am also open to any reliable brand.

I will also appreciate advice from other experts please...

gadgetplanetng:
You didn't mention your load.

I haven't heard of LiFePo4 exploding
Most modern cc's have Lithium settings
If your inverter can handle 15V it should be okay
Babysitting/monitoring is far less on Lithium than Tubular/LA. I basically just look at my voltage anytime I pass my setup and that's it.

A properly fused and BMS'd setup shouldn't give you any issues.

Thanks @ gadgetplanetng for your response.
My load is fine during the day with...
- led bulbs = roughly 45w
- Tv and decoder = roughly 130w
- Refrigerator = 110w
- Washing machine = 500 - 600w
- Fans = roughly = 120w
- the inverter itself = ??

The solar do take care of these load during the day and still charge the battery full before 12noon.

My night use is mainly lights (50w), fans (60w) and phone charging. Total of roughly 150w

Less I forget, I run fully on solar i.e off-grid. I only switch to Nepa when fixing things on inverter system or once in 2 weeks to allow inverter to rest for a few hrs. Only my pumping machine and bathroom water heater is directly on Nepa/gen.

Also my soelix inverter is 24v and I will be considering 24v LiFePO4.
The inverter has a battery setting to select either smf or tubular, the main reason why I am in doubt if it's compatible wt Li battery.

If monitoring means just using the corner eye to check the reading while passing, then this is fine.

Hello Gurus in the house. I salute you all on your informative and educative discussions on this thread.
Please I need your advice on my next steps in the solar power journey.
I currently have a 24v 2kva solar inverter system wt 1280 panels, 2kva soelix pure sine wave inverter, souer 60A mppt CC and 2x200Ah Lead acid smf batteries. All are 1yr old.
Presently I am not satisfied with the performance of the battery as I have to reduce my night load from 8pm-7am to less than 100w for it to last till next morning.
With this, I am considering switching to LiFePO4 most especially because of its longer lifespan but I have some concerns:
1. Fear of explosion from overcharging, high temp etc associated with Li battery. For me, safety is of utmost priority.
2. Will the LiFePO4 work wt my Soelix inverter and 60A mppt CC? Or I will need to get another inverter and CC.
3. Someone on this thread once said Li battery also need babysitting/monitoring. What type of monitoring are we talking about as I do travel for work?

If I will need to stick with the LA smf for safety or huge cost reason, I will be considering going for 4x 150Ah but top quality at reasonable price.
Which brand will you recommend that will go averagely 3yrs & comfortably? as I wish to switch my attention to other things.

Please pardon my long write-up and thank you for your attention and forthcoming responses.

If your mechanic opens the cylinder, what does he want to do there?.....trial & error!

If all those suggestions did not work, it might be better to scan and pull out the error codes as someone mentioned earlier. Let them scan it in your presence and see the codes yourself, don't stay behind for them to come and tell this is what they get. Many of them cannot interpret the codes.

You can even buy a cheap scanner yourself for as low as 3k naira. Such issues do bring codes that will easily lead you to the error and appropriate solution.

All the best...

@samally, it is possible that the problem is due to blockage of the exhaust system as a result of the black smoke which might have spoilt the catalytic converter in the exhaust. When catalytic converter get spoilt (expires), it results in blockage of exhaust system and the engine will not have enough room to breathe.

A quick way to check this is by letting someone feel the blow/volume of air from the exhaust pipe while you try to revv the engine. Is the air volume enough?

To confirm this, tell the mechanic to loose (using 22 spanner) and remove the Oxygen sensor located on the exhaust manifold. Then try revv the engine. The engine will revv well after the Oxygen sensor is removed. (this shows that the problem is the blockage). Pls remember to replace the Oxygen sensor back to its position.

You will have to remove or replace the spoilt catalytic converter in the exhaust system for solution.

I hope this helps.

It is best to get the car scanned especially if it already has the Check Engine light on.

Another thing u can check is the silencer/exhaust. Are u sure it is not blocked (most probably with expired Catalytic converter)? If it is blocked, the engine will not be able to breathe fully thus your rpm will not go up. I have this experience with a 2003 corolla. A quick confirmation of this is to open your hood/bonnet, screw out and remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold (using 22 spanner). The vehicle should sound up with high rpm now if the fault is a blocked exhaust.

I hope this help.

I believe your key is good, the problem may be that the door lock engines of the trunk and driver door are stiff or faulty (as someone already mentioned). A young smart panel beater should be able to fix this cheaply.

livenletlive:
I think I need an expert here as my current ac and electrical guys seem to have exhausted their limits.

Bros, try to locate the fuse box as someone mentioned above and check the fuse or relay for the AC, it may be the issue. YouTube and Google can help with the location.
There is no harm in trying...

On the jerking around gear 2, I will suggest wrong accumulator pistons and/or their springs. Their work is to absorb the shift knocks i.e. soften the gear shift. I think your mechanic misarrange the accumulator pistons and/or their springs the last time you had some work done on the gear box.
On the sluggishness of the Reverse gear in the morning, you may try change the valve body but I doubt if it will correct the fault. Try to negotiate that you will return the valve body if it doesn't work to your satisfaction.
I had this similar issue with a 2003 Corolla but it's is the Drive that will not engage in time every morning. I will have to revv-warm it for like 3-5 mins before it will pick up. I replaced the valve body 3 times, the problem still persist though in different levels/degree. I later changed the whole gear box.
Also, what type of oil is WS, is that the one Toyota recommend for your car? Pls try to use the recommended oil. This is even the starting point of repair.

All the best...

Pls does anyone has information on verification exercise for Npower Health and Npower agro in Ife Central and Ife East? Pls share!

Watsapp admin pls add my number: 08068525552