₦airaland Forum

abootoyyib:
Good evening bosses,

Please I have this Toyota corolla 2004 and the top is making some noise like tapping.

Please is it advise to change the top cylinder ??

Get it to a respectable mechanic. If the tapping is due to a failed lifter(s), you will either need to change the lifters and the camshafts. Changing the whole header is not a good idea if the damage is not due to overheating or bad timing causing piston/valve contact.

NL1960:
How do I now fix it or take it to a mechanic if I cannot start it or if a mechanic comes and wants to take it to his workshop?.

I checked the oil and it is not low.

As I said earlier I can drive without the light showing if there is no traffic and the temperature gauge is below centre

How do you carry a vehicle involved in an accident for fixing? Drive it?

You can drive it though. If it is anything related to the options asides the last, just know you will be spending a lot to fix it and that's if the engine does not grenade itself from oil starvation before then. It's not about having oil in the engine. Is the engine oil circulating properly and being routed to the right places?

NL1960:
Thanks. Can I drive it to my mechanic's place?.

Moreover, what is the implication of constant driving?.

Do not even start that engine to warm up. That's if the damage has not been done already anyway.

You are either low on Oil, burning oil badly, having oil pump issues, having oil leaks or your oil level sensor is acting up due to wiring issues.

Start praying it's the last of the scenarios indicated.

Wizkhalifa2:
Good day everyone,

I drive a KIA sportage 2009, late last year I had an overheating issue, on getting home I discovered the radiator fan was burnt, so I got a rewire to install a new radiator fan. Instead of installing it the way the previous one was installed, he connected it directly to the battery using a relay, when I questioned him, he insisted that there would be no issue with the wiring. Anyways since that day my vehicle started dying while in motion, especially when you're driving slow or about to climb a speed bump. Sometimes it comes back ON after it dies, sometimes it doesn't. I thought it was a battery issue and swapped in new battery, but nothing changed.
Please what could be the problem? As my mechanic has run out of ideas.

Thanks.

Late, but have your alternator checked. It is also possible that your battery is going bad. Either way, you are losing charge while the accessories are running and your battery is not getting enough power to sustain it. Also check your cable from battery to alternator for wear. If your car is not overheating persistently, it might not be valvetrain related.

2cribz:
Its call a mass air flow meter/sensor found inside engine filter hose connecting into the injector mouth. Wetin be map. U fry even type nonsense with confidence.

There's actually a MAP sensor. So just before you call another person ignorant, you should look first.

Apparently the dude also mixed the sensors up. The sensor before the Throttle body is the MAF sensor while that usually on the intake manifold is the MAP sensor.

kelvinmnet:
Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears. The level/impact of jerk is dependent on the acceleration speed.

He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code.
Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.

Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW-1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code.
Kindly assist to know what the issue is.

Won't be surprised if you engine/transmission mounts are bad. Greatest torque is on the low gears. So bad mounts could mimic a transmission jerk. Check if you're having misfires too. That gear ratio requires good engine performance.

theguy12:
Good day gurus in the house..

what could these mean?

DTC report
Selected brand: Toyota

============1==============
P0014
Raw code: 0014
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, exhaust/right/rear, bank 1 - timing over-advanced/system performance
Camshaft Position Exhaust/Right/Rear, Bank 1 Over-Advanced or System Performance

============2==============
P0016
Raw code: 0016
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A - correlation
Crankshaft Position / Camshaft Position Bank 1 Sensor A Correlation

============3==============
P0101
Raw code: 0101
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance problem
Mass or Volume Air Flow Meter Circuit Range / Performance

Do a test of your VVT exhaust solenoid if it's working normally. Might be as simple as replacing that solenoid.

But then with the maf also giving a code, you might want to check the wiring out of they're on the same circuit.

olushola4me:
Hello.
Early this morning I discovered a mixture of oil and water in my radiator. Also, same mixture on the gear dipstick. Camry 2007

Please, what's the cause of these, and possible solutions?

Thanks.

DO NOT DRIVE THAT CAR. DON'T EVEN START IT!

REPLACE THAT RADIATOR ASAP!

And REPLACE BOTH ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION OILS IMMEDIATELY.

While your engine can condone some water in oil before grenading, your transmission will grenade much faster if the damage hasn't been done already. For that transmission oil, do a drain and fill 2-3 times to get any lodged water of it.

Djswad:
Good evening elders in the house, I drive a tuketuke Volkswagen golf 4 2002 model for like a month now I notice my break vibrate (pulsation) when I apply it.i scanned the vehicle and no error code .my kazeem said I should change the rotor disk and break pad which I did and same thing still occur after I change all those , finally my kazeem also suggest I change the abs pump module and I did same story . please I need help

You probably got bad rotors still and that's if the issues weren't with your calipers sticking to begin with. Issues with ABS Pump will most certainly throw a code. Don't think yours was faulty at all.

Bashak:
Hello guys, I need help. Let it not be that my mechanic wants to scam me. This morning I engage my car reverse gear for my boy to wash my car. After cleaning I decided to go out. After matching the gas pedal to floor level I realised it seized. Not this isn't the first time I'm warming my car above 6000 RPM.
So it seized all of a sudden and doesn't go above 2000 RPM. I decided to engage reverse gear. It didn't engage. My other gears are working. Only the reverse gear. My mechanic came and took it away only to call me that there's a damage to the gear box and to fix it will cost 580k. But if I'll buy another one it'll cost me 2M for Belgium and 1.2 for accidented car.
Please who has experienced this and what's the way forward. My Car is a 2011 Toyota Camry Sport.

NB: also about 5-6 days prior to that incident, my car has been showing (MAINTENANCE REQUIRED) on the dashboard. Could this be the cause? Please help me

You only needed transmission fluid change. At least that's for the reverse not working. Your fluid must have been very low, contaminated or both. And certainly, your car was in limp mode hence the limited rev.

That mechanic is a fraudster if no codes were thrown because in my own camry, it didn't throw any codes as of yet, just some gear slippage and no reverse. Like I said, just fluid change because mine was too little in the pan and also black.

What the clown should have done first was replace the fluid and confirm if the one removed was burnt or had particles.

Get soldiers to bundle that fraud if you didn't ask him to dismantle your transmission. He's probably also showing you image of another transmission if he didn't show you under the hood.

To your last question, the 'Maint Reqd' light just indicates that your car is due for servicing. Doesn't matter if you have recently changed your engine oil as it comes on about 5,000 miles after it was last reset and flash 8 times after you start the engine just as a reminder.

barakah:
Please house i need help.
My car won't start, i thought it was the battery so i got someone to jump start the battery and behold! My battery is well charged but the engine won't roll.
I've checked everything possible.
Dashboard lights come on when i insert the key in the ignition but i only hear a faint KPA followed by a humming sound and that's all.
Please what can i try, i don't want the electrician come and fry my wires.

Looks like your Kickstarter has retired.

Femiii:
no sir

If the colour is whine as you say, this image shows the oil is either worn or burnt out. Except the camera added some tint to the colour.

You could use a scanner to test the solenoids and see if they're responsive. I'm not a professional mechanic. This is just personal suggestion.

Bomaway007:
Hello….please where can I buy Fanfaro synthetic engine oil 5W30 for Toyota ?? Any dealer contact will be appreciated I urgently need it not minding the cost at all since it’s the oil I’ve been using with car

They've got a store in Ibadan. Close to UI.

jceesquare:
You didn't state what car it is.
Check your injector nozzle to see if it's leaking or has a poor spray pattern.

Toyota Camry 2010 with a V6 engine.

@Gazzuzz

Recently noticed my fuel consumption is astronomical.

Ltft shows above 23% on both bank 1 and 2.
Stft fluctuates between -5 to -9% on both banks.
No error codes but I can smell unburnt fuel in the exhaust. I haven't seen the car from behind so I can't tell if there's black smoke from exhaust.
My O2S voltage is also hovering around 0.6-0.8mv so I know I'm technically in a rich condition but the ECU hasn't thrown in a code yet.

Prior to this, I noticed some slight and almost unnoticeable response in acceleration especially with the AC on. My fuel gauge also has some delay when I top up gas and can take as much as 10-15 minutes to get up to the right level. Also, it can remain in one position for a while and then suddenly drop to the right level after some driving giving me heartbreak when I think I still got fuel.

I changed the air filter yesterday and cleaned the PCV and engine is more responsive but the fuel delivery is too high.

What do you think I could do in this condition?

Etizz:
Good Day guys, I wanted to change my oil so I asked the mechanic to open the bottom plate and clean it, so I found this pieces of metal or brass about 3 in the oil pump screen, pls where do you think it may come from and how dangerous do u think it could be? How can I prevent it from happening?

Car engine is Toyota 2AZ

There's certainly been sludge buildup on this engine and/or overheating at a certain point. Belgium doesn't mean the engine wasn't abused from previous user.

Where can one get the original ATF WS for Toyota?

kingreign:
Replace the Hub ASSY.

How do you mean please? The wheel bearing or the whole chunk that attaches to the strut?

Grupo:
Try wheel alignment and balancing if you have not done so.

I've done no less than 10 times each for both actions mentioned since the time I got the car.

Most times, the problem just slightly reduces or remains the same.

It's become rocket science to the mechanics that have handled the car.

jceesquare:
What car is that?
Your complain shouldn't be difficult to diagnose and fix

This case is now beyond the mechanic I've met.

jceesquare:
What car is that?
Your complain shouldn't be difficult to diagnose and fix

Toyota Camry 2010 SE.

For some reason, my mechanic is clueless as to the cause now.

Hello guys, any idea on genuity of Masuma parts being sold in Nigeria?

I have changed my brake discs to tokunbo and then to a brand new one but I'm still getting steering judder when braking on highway speeds (100-140KMh).

I'm thinking on buying an 'oem' or at least legitimate quality as I've changed almost everything (discs, pads, calipers, tierod ends, ball joints, control arm and stabilizer bar bushings, wheel bearings, shaft, tokunbo tires, shock absorbers, even rotated tires) on my front end except the hub itself but I keep, getting the ridiculous vibrations when I dare brake.

Or is there anything I should be looking at? What's the possibility of a tokunbo and brand new brake discs being out of round?

Hello guys, any idea on genuity of Masuma parts being sold in Nigeria?

I have changed my brake discs to tokunbo and then to a brand new one but I'm still getting steering judder when braking on highway speeds (100-140KMh).

I'm thinking on buying an 'oem' or at least legitimate quality as I've changed almost everything (discs, pads, calipers, tierod ends, ball joints, control arm and stabilizer bar bushings, wheel bearings, shaft, tokunbo tires, shock absorbers, even rotated tires) on my front end except the hub itself but I keep, getting the ridiculous vibrations when I dare brake.

Or is there anything I should be looking at? What's the possibility of a tokunbo and brand new brake discs being out of round?

blackgold2018:
there’s no oil circulation. Or there’s a very low oil circulation.

It’s not the sensor issue. I have changed. When the oil light comes up.. I’ll start hearing a noise inside my engine.
So something is blocking my oil circulation

Check under your car. Is the sump dented?

@autowiz

Hello, please I have had vibration issues with the car (Camry 2010 V6 SE) upon acceleration and braking which I suspected to be suspension. For some weird reason, the mechanic suggested a shaft change and that was done since brake pad and disc replacement didn't solve the issue. Noticed gear slipping today and car won't go into reverse.

Is there hope for the car or is this a done case with my transmission?

OwoukoUrua:
Stock cam takes nice photos but Gcam does better, especially in low light, and at night.

I get 11hrs+ SOT on light usage, 10hrs+ on mixed usage ( i.e. alternating light and heavy usage), and 9hrs+ on heavy usage (e.g. continuous gaming)

Kindly assist with the Gcam procedure/links.

genius43:
Download manually and install

Did you mean to go straight to the 13.0.8.0 or go to the 12.5.9 and onwards until 13.0.8.0?

Also, please can you share the link?

Not sure which to download exactly and I don't want to wreck the phone's system.

Hello,

Got the Note 10 pro weeks back and I have been getting prompt to update. I came from the note 9s so I know well to hold off on updates.

The phone is currently on 12.5.8 and I'm getting notification to update to 13.0.8.0 (3.1GB)

Is it advisable to update to the latest build directly or go sequentially using manual process?

genius43

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Horladayod1:
I'm sorry, I can't. I want to help my brother order the same and my card can only do $100/month.

How about you help with the process? Not very certain about the process. I could use my own card.

Horladayod1:
I just got my Soundcore Motion Plus. That baby is bad out of the box.

It was ordered on 11-11, shipped via Aliexpress Selection Standard and Singapore Post. Dispatched to Nigeria on the 14th and I got it today 25th.

Please could you assist with purchasing this product?

Please has anyone changed the back cover for the note 9s?

Cost of change will be appreciated too. The phone has always been in casing. Not sure how the glass managed to crack.