PRICED TO SELL NOW AT 4,900,000 !!

MUST SELL!!

CALL FOR VIEWING.

STILL AVAILABLE !

PRICE SLIGHTLY NEGOTIABLE !

VERY CLEAN.

AVAILABLE !

MORE PICS !!

TOYOTA HILUX 2011 - DOUBLE CABIN

ENGINE: 2.7 VVTi (DOHC) - longitudinal inline 4
TRANSMISSION: AUTOMATIC 5 SPEED
DRIVETRAIN: 4 WHEEL DRIVE
MILEAGE: 75,500 km
INTERIOR: FABRIC & LEATHER INSERTS (Maroon color)
EXTERIOR: WHITE PEARL
Security and Safety
Security System yes
Alarm yes
Immobilizer yes
Impact Tensioning Seat Belts no
Air Bag - Number 6
Air Bag - Driver yes
Air Bag - Passenger yes
Air Bag - Side yes
Air Bag - Detail driver, passenger, front side, curtains
Gearlock no
Hi Level Brake Light yes
Power Steering yes
Side impact protection yes

Peripherals and Accessories
Air conditioner yes
Fog Lamps - Front yes
Fog Lamps - Rear no
Xenon Headlamps no
Remote Side Mirrors yes
Auto Dip Mirrors no
Remote Electric Mirror Memory no
Remote Side Mirrors Electric electric
Electric Windows yes
Electric Window Detail front + rear
Electric Window One-Touch yes
Tinted Side Windows yes
Tinted Windscreen yes
Auto Windscreen Wipers yes
Hands-Free Phone Pre-Wiring yes
Radio And / Or Tape yes
Radio yes
Multi Function Steering Wheel audio, mid, b/t
Rev Counter yes
Central Locking Yes
Cup Holders front + rear (4)
Remote Fuel Cap Release yes

Wheels, Brakes and Steering
ABS yes
Front Brakes ventilated discs
Rear Brakes leading-trailing drum
Brake Hydraulics load sensing, proportioning + bypass valve, abs
Handbreak Position between front seats
Alloy Wheels yes
Rim Size - Front 7.5j
Rim Size - Rear 7.5j
Drive Wheels rear
Front Track 1540
Rear Track 1540
Wheel Base 3085
Number of Wheels Driven 2
Tyre Size - Front 265/65 r17
Tyre Size - Rear 265/65 r17
Front Suspension independent double wishbone
Rear Suspension rigid axle, leaf springs
Steering Type rack + pinion, power assisted
Steering Column Height / Rake Adjust yes

PLEASE NOTE: this vehicle is intact. The interior, engine, transmission, AC and chassis are flawless. The vehicle will ONLY REQUIRE general cleaning, washing and waxing of exterior. All the tires are in good condition (including spare).

PRICE: (NAIRA) 4,950,000 - VERY VERY SLIGHTLY NEGOTIABLE!

INTERESTED PARTIES PLEASE CALL VICTOR ON: 08023419526 / 08098419526

VEHICLE IS AVAILABLE FOR VIEWING IN EBUTE METTA, LAGOS.

PLEASE SEE PICTURES BELOW:

lonelydora: Check also the steering rack.

Correct Sir! If you are very certain there are no external leakages, raise the front side of the vehicle and secure with jack stands.

Get under the vehicle and pull back the steering bellows (boots) on both sides of the rack ends. If you see power steering fluid present an internal steering gear leakage (rack) is indicated.

Sometimes the leakage is not so severe for the power steering fluid to drop on the floor making it tricky to identify.

Continuous usage may affect the power steering pump.

Good luck!

Hello. What type of AC parts have you been using? Is it still factory or has it been converted using non-oem parts?
Ac systems are relatively straightforward.
You seem to have changed everything. Confirm the radiator and condenser fan are ok.
If ok I would assume the cooling reduces after a few days or a week? You may have a tiny leak in the system that is not being picked up.
If so, try to look at all the hoses, pipes and don't forget the evaporator assembly located behind/under the dashboard. This part is usually overlooked because it is the most difficult to access on quite a few vehicles. Some vehicles even require removal of the entire dashboard to replace the evaporator.
Also ensure all o-ring seals are replaced when replacing AC components.
Hope this helps!

Hello. I use the following engine oil for my Honda CR-V 2004, ZIC A+ 5w30 (fully synthetic). I'm not a heavy user and I changed my oil and filter August 2012. My vehicle has run only 54,000 Km. Till date the oil has a fair color and is serving well. I will probably go for another month before the next oil change. It is normal for engine oil to turn to a dark color due to the oxidation / blow by gases after the combustion process. It shows that the oil is doing what it is meant to , removing harmful deposits etc.

You may check with the following Company for the engine oil. I purchase from them as well:

MELVIC EDGE INTEGRATED SERVICES LTD. (RC 930716)
Suite 27/28, 1st Floor, Praise Plaza, Skido Bus stop, Addo road
Ajah, Lekki
Lagos, Nigeria.
Tel: 08191710680 / 08034795385
Email: info@melvicedge.com
Website: www.melvicedge.com

I got the following information from their thread posted a while ago:

ZIC A+ (SAE 5W30) is a 100% synthetic engine oil engineered to deliver outstanding engine protection and to offer improved fuel economy in vehicles where SAE 5W30 oils are recommended.

(ZIC A+ 5W30 outperforms conventional oils and meets or exceeds warranty requirements for many Japanese and Korean car makers.
ZIC A+ 5W30 provides improved fuel saving benefits up to 2~5% compared to conventional motor oils of SAE 10W30 and delivers better performance. API (American Petrol Institute) RATING: SN & ILSAC GF (Group) 5 )

It is a very good lubricant. Give it a shot if you wish.

Good luck!

9icetoo: i am not qualified yet to contribute to this thread. though i am very glad to learn a few tips here. Nice one, keep it coming peeps.

You do not need to be qualified to contribute to this thread or any thread for that matter. Comments and questions are an integral part of the learning procedure.

Regards

Hello. Excess fuel is being dumped into the intake. Do you have a check engine light illuminated in your instrument cluster? If you do then first run a diagnostic scan to retrieve malfunction coded stored in the engine control module. This will guide you to the problem area. Further testing will then be required to pin point the issue / issues.
Hope this helps.

Somorin#1:


I didn’t have to mention that I use GTech Pro, my assumption is that any self-respecting Autoist would have some sort of measuring devices in its arsenal. Regardless of that, GTech Pro does not monitor mpg per se. I don’t understand though why you would casually disregard this device when you haven’t spent time on it. When tuning my cars, either the software parameters or after installing bolt ons or other upgrades even as simple as changing my tires, I use my GTech Pro to aid me. When everything is buttoned down I then go to my local commercial accelerometer for final measurement (I usually wait for club days when one of the automotive clubs I belong to does a dyno day). My figures have never been off more than 0.1 %, so GTech Pro gets me close enough. As a Technical person professionally and an Autoist as a hobby I salute companies that develop and market instantly useful devices like accelerometers. The caveat is that it does require calibration and to be used properly by following the instruction. I have a dedicated section of NON PUBLIC road where I do my testing, my GTech is well installed with zero movements on the device itself and thus I get almost dead on measurements. If you approach any technical device as a flight of fancy then I am afraid that the result will show.

When you remove your muffler (only muffler, nothing to do with suspension, etc) the ECU does not see that since there are no sensors to monitor muffler removal. If back pressure is affected, which is not a total guarantee as some cars do come from the factory with very excellent flowing mufflers (example Mitsubishi Evolution, Corvette Z06), then the ECU accommodates with a different trim. I will wager and say that most modern turbo cars have excellent mufflers and any gain can usually be seen when the downpipe is replaced versus just a catback.

So to answer the OPs direct question, removing your muffler does not affect your fuel performance, mostly. Now if you enjoy hearing the noise of the exhaust and keep revving the engine or take advantage of the new found increase in power by doing jack rabbit starts, enjoying the previously unreachable power bands of the tachometer then fuel mileage will surfer.

I yield this very interesting thread and we’ll meet on another one I’m sure.

Certainly I would like to keep posting on this great thread. Out of respect I do not dis-regard anything or what anyone says. I have my personal experiences as a Toyota and Honda tech for the last 19 years with ASE certifications. I do not know everything, neither does everyone else. We keep learning everyday.
I do not necessarily agree with some of your comments; however I do appreciate the input.
Wishing you the very best and yes hopefully we'll meet on another thread in the near future.

Regards

Somorin#1:


You just repeated what I said.

Removing the muffler does not have any effect on fuel combustion as controlled by the ECU.

And you can absolutely generalize on horsepower gain from proven mods and I've never installed a bolt on that did not give me the advertised gain according to my GTech Pro. But I don;t buy the cheapest product out of China though. But that is not what I said on my post, I stated the exact horsepower gain I got from a specific mod on a specific car.

Somorin#1:


You just repeated what I said.

Removing the muffler does not have any effect on fuel combustion as controlled by the ECU.

And you can absolutely generalize on horsepower gain from proven mods and I've never installed a bolt on that did not give me the advertised gain according to my GTech Pro. But I don;t buy the cheapest product out of China though. But that is not what I said on my post, I stated the exact horsepower gain I got from a specific mod on a specific car.

Firstly, did you mention you were using a GTech pro for HP calculation? If you use speed and power measuring devices then you can generalize on absolutely anything. GTech pro is a decent accelerometer, but a little optimistic on hp readings; good for generalization though. I say this because of the pitching of a vehicle under braking / acceleration. The difference in Hp readings (marginal error) are factors of suspension travel, chassis stiffness etc. That's again another topic. If you want real time readings then a vehicle dynamometer is the way to go. Although, yes, Gtech pro is fair, but you will never get an exact specific HP gain form a mod, as explained above. Again this is generalization. If you do not believe in this just try both variations and you will be pleasantly surprised. Although I do believe that G-Tech Pro has some new designs out that are pretty good, although I have not yet tested or received feedback.

I can understand what you are getting at by saying (Removing the muffler does not have any effect on fuel combustion as controlled by the ECU.), but it not accurate to be sincere. There is a reason why your or any vehicle is actually gaining or hurting in performance by removing an exhaust muffler or installing a free flow type. This is the wonder of the OBD II system.

If you remove the muffler you reduce engine back pressure and the exhaust gases expel a lot faster out of the exhaust side of the cylinder head. A lot of car enthusiasts do this to bump the hp rating from their motors. Although NOT ADVISABLE on a daily driven street vehicle. Anything you touch or tamper with on an intake or exhaust system will affect the fuel trim; hence indirectly affect what is available to the engine to ignite / burn (air fuel ratio and combustion). This will determine whether the engine will run rich or lean. This may also be confirmed from the byproducts of combustion (HC, Nox, CO2, CO etc)
Altering the fuel trim is actually done by the ECM from various inputs received from appropriate sensors (A/F, oxygen etc).

Removing an exhaust muffler on some vehicle will hurt the fuel economy more than others. All engines require a certain amount of back pressure to maintain good torque and horsepower. A good exhaust system (cat back) or muffler tuned for a specific motor will reduce back pressure just the right amount to give you good performance gains and at the same time a slight bump in fuel economy. On the other hand the motor will suffer if no or very little back pressure is applied.

Once again this all depends on engine and exhaust system designs.

As you mentioned, the best way is to go for the original tried and tested products from reputable Companies. You will be rest assured the products have been tested for your application!

Once again PLEASE NOTE this is a very vast topic. I am just highlighting a few areas from my personal experience, What works and may have worked for me is not necessary will work for others, vice versa.

All inputs are experiences are valid.

Regards

Somorin#1:


The muffler does not have any sensor attached and is not part of the ECU process stream.

Any car/engine can benefit from performance upgraded if done with planning.

I have measured 7hp gain from just exhaust and intake alone. 7hp gain on a car that weighs 1100 pounds is heady.

The sensors are pre (air fuel sensor) and post (oxygen sensor) cat. converter and NOT attached to the muffler. These sensors are part of the Ecu process stream in conjunction with other sensors map, cam, crank etc to adjust ignition timing, fuel curve etc. Without the presence of these sensors the engine will never run at peak efficiency. It will surely run, just not efficiently.

Yes, any vehicle will benefit bolt on performance parts. How much one gains from a particular motor depends on the design of the motor itself and the type of systems (PARTS) used.

Once again you cannot generalize on what hp gains are
achieved. Each engine's characteristics are different.

Weight and friction losses rob horse power.

As a matter of fact it was actually closer to 8hp gain at the wheels on my 96 Prelude using an Aem cold air intake, dc sports stainless steel (light weight) headers, NOLOGY performance plugs and wires (with external ground straps) and a Greddy cat back exhaust system with 3.5 inch mandarel bent piping and a 5 inch outlet on the stainless steel muffler.

Hope this explains a bit better.

Regards

Somorin#1:
A few plausible attempts but here is the low down.

The simple answer is that the fuel consumption is affected because of lack of back pressure.

It has nothing to do with o2 sensors, etc The pre and post cat sensor doesn't know calculate exhaust flow after the last sensor.

On my non commute cars, the first thing I do is install a less restrictive cat back performance exhaust system, then a freeer flowing intake system and then program the ecu.

Basically the pistons will use less energy to push the exhaust gas out of the tailpipe.

I wish to state Oxygen sensors and air/fuel sensors are a vital part of the system. These sensors measure the oxygen content in the exhaust and adjust the short and long term fuel trims in closed loop control.
Any alteration to a stock exhaust system will immediately affect your short term fuel trim. Lack of exhaust back pressure is not the only instance that will affect fuel consumption.
These sensors whether the system is running rich or lean relay oxygen content information via tiny voltage signal pulses to the engine control module.
If these sensors were not there then what information would the ECM use to control and maintain the fuel trim at 14.7:1 (perfect air fuel ratio - stoichiometric)?
In open loop control these sensors are not used, but only in closed loop; however that's another topic. These sensors are crucial for peak engine performance and yes, they will affect fuel economy if they go bad, as they will relay wrong information to the ECM.
Exhaust systems and design are a very vast topic.
Placing a free flow exhaust system and less restrictive intake system may yield slight performance gains in some vehicles, but putting the same set up in a different motor may actually hurt engine performance and fuel economy. You have to try different set ups based on engine design.
For example on a Honda motor a basic air intake, exhaust upgrade, performance plugs, headers etc will yield about 10 - 12 horsepower. In reality place your vehicle on a dynamometer and you will not see more than 7 - 9 hp due to friction and drivetrain losses.
You will likely not notice any deviation in fuel economy because the ECM can adjust injectors duty cycle up to 3 - 4% to compensate for the additional airflow in and out of the engine. Once again I highlight here there is more exhaust flow out of the engine which is measured by the oxygen sensor. The necessary adjustments (injector duty cycle) is carried out by the ECM, along with ignition timing curve etc.
For those who are interested it is difficult getting huge horsepower gains from a Honda motor just by adding aftermarket bolt on parts. Honda engines (intake runners, intake & exhaust head ports, manifold designs etc) are already designed and tuned to extract every ounce of power from small displacement engines.
Sorry to go off topic. It might interest some.
I used to drag race in Florida about 14 years ago running a Honda Prelude Si 96 model. Ported and polished cylinder head, performance intake, headers, cat back exhaust system, adjustable cam gears, high flow AEM fuel pump, fuel rail, fuel injectors and to top it off a 50 shot of Nos (Nitrous Oxide).
This is where I derive my knowledge from to a certain extent.
This is a great topic and it's good to learn from.

Good luck

If the horn relay and horn itself have been tested and are in good order and the horn only sounds at times when the horn pad is depressed while turning the steering wheel, then the horn / srs cluster is faulty (failing current).

Please contact me on md_autos@yahoo.com

Let me see whether I can assist on this matter.

Regards

Sorry, I read again your statement that the condenser was replaced with a fan attached to it?

Firstly, possibly he did not check the system properly. He may be right in replacing the compressor due to leakage OR internal failure.

If it is an internal failure there may be a possibility the internally damaged pistons have allowed metal particles (shavings) to circulate through the system. If this is the case and you DO NOT flush the system (including evaporator), change the condenser assy and receiver drier, you can replace any number of compressors they will keep getting damaged!

Another issue is that your mechanic has changed the AC condenser with another type with a fan attached to it. This means he has certainly fabricated the condenser into place by cutting and welding the factory liquid (high pressure) lines. AC systems are designed to work at their peak efficiency with the components designed and installed from factory. It can be done effectively, but modifying it without understanding what is installed from factory can lead to a real mess.

The condenser is made up of tiny coils and cooling fins for maximum condensation (releasing of heat to the cooler ambient air flowing through it). In this case IF your mechanic has placed a smaller condenser than factory (despite the fan attached to it), it will increase the head (high) pressure in the system. High head pressures are also damaging to the AC compressor!

GO THROUGH THE FOLLOWING:

1) Let your mechanic ensure the AC (refrigerant oil) in the system is not turned a blackish color with metal particles.

2) If so, flush the system (including evaporator - located behind center of dashboard on Corolla '08). ENSURE THIS IS DONE THOROUGHLY....THE ENTIRE SYSTEM!

3) Replace the AC condenser with the original one that came from factory. Put about one (1) ounce of ND-Oil 8 (refrigerant oil) in it, before fitment.

4) The original AC condenser will have a receiver drier fitted inside, so no need to purchase a separate one.

5) Put the factory fan back in place (assuming that it is working perfectly well)! If not, change the fan , but put the original fan from factory!

6) Replace the AC compressor with an original Denso (factory) one. Put about two (2) ounces of ND-Oil 8 (refrigerant oil) in it.

7) Make sure all the O - ring seals are replaced on all fittings to ensure no system leakages!

It probably would be a good idea to replace the expansion valve as well at this time. As the system has already been opened and I am certain that your mechanic would not have changed this part.

9) Once everything is coupled properly and all O - ring seals replaced, hook up a vacuum pump to the system and vaccum it for about 20 minutes. The purpose of vacuuming a system is to remove the moisture that has entered the system when opened. Most mechanics don't bother because they do not know about it. Moisture in the system, if not removed causes a reaction with the refrigerant oil in the system that eats away the O-ring seals. This over time causes leakages in the system.

10) During the vacuum process you may add another one (1) ounce of ND-Oil 8 (refrigerant oil) through the vaccum machine.

11) Once completed fill the AC system with the specified amount of R134a freon (gas). There will be a sticker under the bonnet specifying the refrigerant quantity. Corolla '08 should be approximately 460 - 600 grams.

12) After filling let the system run at various loads and check for system leakages. Check high side (compressor, condenser, liquid lines) first, followed by low side (evaporator, expansion valve, low side hoses). There are various ways of checking. The local mechanics ways are to use soapy water around pipes and fittings. The best way is to install a dye in the system or use an electronic leak detector.

The above guide is as long as the electrical potion of the AC system is functioning perfectly well. I have based the above on this assumption because you mentioned the system has been fixed twice now and it has worked briefly (up to 2 weeks). If the electrical portion of it was faulty the blower fan etc would not engage at all....! NO COOLING...NOTHING!! A/C sub panel, wiring, relay issues etc. You have not mentioned any issue relating to this.

Once all factory components are used and procedures as above are followed you will have a factory trouble - free system that will serve you perfectly well!

If the above is too much for your mechanic take it to a standard service centre!

GOOD LUCK!

Burning AC compressors are not very common on Corolla '08.
This type of compressor does not use an external clutch and magnet to engage the compressor it uses an oil pressure control solenoid built internally into the compressor for engagement.
These solenoids have a tendency to fail. The genuine compressors don't come cheap.
Please do oblige us as to how much your mechanic charged you for the compressor. Did he fix a new one?

Hello.
Wheel balancing will not fix this problem.

Since your the vehicle was first functioning fine before replacing the wheel hubs and tie rods, get a qualified mechanic to remove the wheel hubs and check the bearing. This vehicle uses a removable one piece (permanent) bearing that should always be removed and installed by a hub press rather than a hammer. Failure to do so may deform the wheel hub unit. At the same time have the old original (faulty I assume) wheel hubs present to confirm they are identical to the replacement ones. I assume your mechanic has fixed fairly used wheel hubs.

Even a slight difference in hub position will throw off the alignment measurement because if the mounting hole on the steering knuckle where the tie rod tightens is pushed forward or backward (positive or negative caster) the factory designed tie rod cannot fit, it will seem to be the wrong length. There may be a possibility your mechanic may have used a different length tie rod to compensate. All this will amount to abnormal tire wear you are complaining of.

Incorrect wheel hubs will change the positive caster (alignment measurement) setting to negative. This in the will not allow the steering wheel to return to its position by default once the steering is released. All vehicles suspensions systems on today's roads have a positive caster setting applied from factory. This is the reason why the steering wheel returns without guidance.

Since you do not have any engine performance issues I am not in a position to say what exactly your mechanic did, but it sounds to me that there may be a possibility of binding causing drag (wheel bearing, incorrect hub). This places more load on the engine; hence the excess fuel consumption issue.

Try any amount of wheel alignment it will not solve your issue. The geometry of your suspension is out of manufacturer's specification. Get a good tech to tear down the front wheel hub/knuckle assembly, check all components replaced, including all the ball joints. Do have all your old components replaced present for comparison. Once checked and rectified, perform another wheel alignment and balance. Keep your tire pressure (cold) at 32 psi. All your issues will be resolved.

It should be relatively straight forward to diagnose and rectify!

Hope this helps!

Good luck!

You are welcome! I will check tomorrow whether I may have a step by step diagnosis procedure lying somewhere for this code, which your mechanic may follow. It really shouldn't be complicated.

Please drop me an email on md_autos@yahoo.com

Regards

Hello.
This code indicates a fault in the heater circuit (either open or short), Usually it is an open circuit due to a faulty heater element in the sensor (sensor 2, after cat). This sensor measures catalytic converter efficiency and generally does not affect your short term fuel trim (everyday driving), although it can have an impact on overall fuel curve efficiency (long term fuel trim). This is another topic though.

Get a multimeter and check the resistance (Ohms) between the two black wires. If it gives you infinite Ohms the sensor is bad. If the sensor checks out ok check the 12volt circuit to the heater element. There will be a heater fuse in line. The ECM (engine control module) feeds current (12 v and ground) to the two black wires in open loop mode (cold start). Your problem will lie in the feed circuit (short/open), oxygen sensor (element open).

PLEASE DO NOT start by replacing the ECM. You must ensure all the above checks are complete and NO FAULT is found in them. The internal ECM circuit can only be deemed faulty if it is NOT SUPPLYING OUT 12v to the feed (heater) circuit. The system wiring has to be thoroughly and carefully traced. Honda ECM's are generally trouble free and occasionally fail.

This bring up another question regarding your catalytic converter. You mentioned the vehicle did not have a catalytic converter? Is this vehicle an in line 4 cylinder (K24) motor? Since it's toks means it has been imported from the US I assume? A catalytic converter should have been in place.

Did you notice a difference in fuel consumption before and after replacing the converter. Is the fuel consumption better or worse?

I wish to also shed some light on catalytic converters and fuel consumption.

It seems there is a mis-conception that catalytic converters have no effect on fuel consumption. Catalytic converters are placed in modern vehicles to reduce emissions to an acceptable level without affecting engine performance and fuel consumption. Converters use two types of catalysts to reduce HC (unburnt fuel), CO (Carbon Monoxide) and NOx (oxides of Nitrogen), caused by high combustion temperature. One is a reduction catalyst and another type is an oxidation catalyst. To keep it brief these materials keep the emission out of the tail pipe to a minimal. The sensor 2 (after cat) is a short range sensor which detects oxygen content in the exhaust by feeding a rapid fluctuating voltage back to the ECM. This determines exhaust efficiency and long term fuel trim. Very crucial for overall running efficiency of modern engines.

Now think of an engine as a BIG AIR PUMP. All vehicle's on the road today have a certain amount of exhaust back pressure built into them determined by intake and exhaust system designs (exhaust headers, straight pipes (A & B), catalytic converters and exhaust muffler). As efficiently as an engine breathes in (air intake), it must breathe out (exhaust) as effectively (free flow) to maintain maximum efficiency and peak engine performance. A healthy operational engine works at it's peak efficiency at an A/F (air/fuel) ratio of 14:6 to 1.

Now any restriction in the intake or exhaust system immediately affects engine back pressure and affects perfect combustion. This in turn alters the air/fuel ratio: hence affecting the fuel curve. Restrictions can be caused by a clogged air filter, in tank fuel filter, etc and exhaust system components.

I will take the catalytic converter in this example:

A plugged or blocked catalytic converter reduces the air flow of exhaust from the engine. This causes excess exhaust build up in the engine which reduces the amount of new combustible oxygen the engine is able to pull in (intake). This restriction reduces efficiency. The engine (exampled as an air pump) now has to work harder to gain speed. This increased work LOWERS FUEL ECONOMY (the ECM shifts to a rich fuel map as it is not receiving accurate information from respective air metering sensors (MAP, air flow meter etc). Excess fuel is dumped into the engine signaled by a longer injector duty cycle (on time), from the ECM. The engine needs the excess fuel to propel the vehicle along as the speed increases, despite of restricted airflow. The engine will run, but sluggishly due to the inadequate air flow and at the expense of EXCESS FUEL CONSUMPTION. A plugged catalytic may also cause an engine to cough after short operation.

There is really a lot more on this topic to keep your engine running at its optimum level.

Good luck with resolving the issue on your Accord.

Regards

This is a fuel related problem. As you have indicated as long as the spark plugs are not fouled with engine oil the engine is burning excess fuel. That is the blackish smoke out of the tailpipe.

There are many factors that can cause the poor engine performance you are experiencing.

Firstly, do you have a check engine light illuminated on your instrument cluster? Is the engine a 4 cylinder or a V6?

Thank you sir! I have also desperately been trying to avoid commenting on the posts on the above subject matter, but could not resist. THE COMMENTS ARE NOT VALID!!

Whoever removes a thermostat on any vehicle does not understand the long term implications and operation of an internal combustion engine.

On a cold start the ECM (engine control module) injects a HIGHER pre-determined volume of fuel into the combustion chamber. This is due to the condensation of fuel on the intake manifold walls, length of manifold runners etc. The higher injector duty cycle overcomes this. At this time the ECM is not receiving information from the Oxygen and Air fuel sensor. This mode is called OPEN LOOP. Now if we run in OPEN LOOP forever the engine would consume so much fuel that we would probably want to park the vehicle and stop driving! Apart from the fuel consumption, you will be destroying your catalytic converter and will perceive an unburnt fuel (excess hydrocarbons) odor from the exhaust. Also the sensors would carbonize over time and permanently fail! NOT A SITUATION WE NEED!

Now, the key is to get the engine to reach it's operating temperature as soon as possible. Once the engine reached it's operating temperature the O2 (oxygen) and A/F sensor (air fuel) are providing vital feedback to the ECM, such as the oxygen content in the exhaust and catalyst efficiency. This mode is called CLOSED LOOP. By using this information the the correct air fuel ratio can be maintained 14:7 to 1. THIS MAXIMIZES FUEL ECONOMY, MINIMUM EMISSIONS OUT OF TAILPIPE, ENGINE WEAR IS LESS (IN CASE OF A LEAN MIXTURE, WHICH CAN DESTROY ENGINES) and GENERALLY MAXIMIZES ENGINE OPERATION CHARACTERISTICS. At the end of the day it gives us all a smoother ride that we look for!!

Now, there are components that allow an engine to reach closed loop mode as soon as possible. FIRST AND VERY IMPORTANT IS THE ENGINE THERMOSTAT!! It has a temperature stamped on it's body and once it is reached the thermostat opens to allow the coolant to circulate through the cooling system (engine cooling jackets, radiator etc).

The oxygen sensors and A/F sensors also need to get to their operating temperatures as soon as possible. About 400c for the O2 sensor and 650c for the A/F sensor. These sensors also have built in heater elements in them which aid in ensuring the proper operational temperature is reached for respective feedback to the ECM for closed loop control. It is essential that the ENGINE THERMOSTAT is functioning properly to allow the engine to reach it's operating temperature otherwise the A/F and O2 sensor are also affected.

With all the above not functioning, will cause the engine to remain cool; hence the temperature gauge (needle) at barely above the 'C' mark on the instrument cluster. Depending on engine design most system will not enter closed loop, even if they do ENGINE EFFICIENCY WILL DEFINITELY BE SUB-STANDARD!!!

An inefficient engine CONSUMES FUEL, ROBS HORSEPOWER, WILL INCREASE BLOW BY GASES WHICH IN TURN WILL CONTAMINATE ENGINE OIL (MORE FREQUENT OIL CHANGES), EMITS EXCESS EMISSIONS, CAN BE HARMFUL TO ENGINE OIL SEALS/COMPONENTS.

ALSO PLEASE NOTE THERMOSTATS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO KEEP OCCUPANTS WARM! That is the job of the HEATER CORE which is placed on most vehicles in a plastic case together with the A/C evaporator under the dashboard. The heater core has hot engine coolant flowing through it. A blend door is used to control the flow of air from HOT to COLD. Turning the knob to the HOT (RED AREA) allows the air to pass over the heater core which increases in temperature and exits through the A/C vents via the appropriate ducting into the passenger compartment.

Yes, agreed that a lot of people say I have removed my thermostat and my engine temperature etc is normal and everything is wonderful. They don't realize they have just reduced the efficiency of their engines by doing so. How is this affecting the actual operational characteristics engine they can't see and have no idea! In some cases it may not have a short term effect, but the long term will tell. To be honest quite a few people are not too concerned if their fuel economy drops and their converters/sensors get toasted, as long as their vehicles move they are ok. This may also be lack of knowledge I really do not know, but it is their investment to take care of.

SO PLEASE do keep you thermostats in place! All new cars sold here have factory thermostats installed!

Just for information and maintenance sake. I use a CR-V 2004 model (K20A5) motor. I replace the thermostat on it every 2 years for maximum efficiency. I have just replaced the thermostat last week with a Honda genuine type, along with re-usable high flow K & N filter, genuine Honda spark plugs (ZFR6K-11), 5w30 synthetic (VHVI) very high viscosity index motor oil. Also flow tested and serviced the fuel injectors, fuel pump filter, throttle body, intake manifold, checked the intake / exhaust valve settings (including replacement of valve cover gasket, genuine Honda).

The engine runs so smooth and the throttle response is very quick. On the THERMOSTAT side in less than 2 minutes the temperature gauge is just below half and remains there.

I hope the above sheds some light on the above subject matter.

GOOD LUCK!









I have tried so hard to ignore these your posts, but i found it very difficult

Please, you can keep to your ignorance and abuse your vehicles, but you dont have to give wrong information to people that are ready and want to learn. I wonder where you got these your ideas?


What made you think your temperature guage is meant to be at the lowest level for normal engine operating temperature? What made you think your engine was overheating when your temp guage was at the middle? Can we really be that ignorant?


Ikenna.[/quote]

Reverse gear synchronizer worn (high pithed grinding/thumping sound), along with friction discs in the clutch drum housing.

First logical thing to do is replace the transmission fluid with either Honda ATF Z1 or a comparable synthetic fluid (not filling station ATF). Although this may not solve the issue. There is no use to change the transmission filter at this point as this will involve removal and opening of the gear box case. It is not like some Toyota transmissions where you can drop the transmission pan and change the filter from underneath the vehicle. Although this is your decision whether you wish to drop the gearbox and change the filter, but do ensure you have a competent technician to handle it. You will need to change the gearbox shaft seals (L + R) and the rear engine oil seal (flywheel side) before mounting the gearbox back.

After replacement of transmission fluid, if problem still persists the gearbox will need to be removed and replaced or either overhauled (at this time the transmission filter and various other seals should be changed) with the above mentioned components (synchronizer, friction discs inside clutch drum etc.). The transmission valve body will also require service OR REPLACEMENT if essential.

DO NOT venture into overhaul if your mechanic doesn't have the experience. It is a specific, detailed, time consuming and expensive affair. 30 - 40,000 will not overhaul the gear as per manufacturer's specification to obtain the right result.

Good luck!

Sounds like the insufficient oil pressure has already affected the connecting rod / main bearings. That's the rattling sound you are hearing when accelerating. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE!

As he said, let him drop the oil pan and check the oil pump strainer, most likely it will be partially blocked with sludge/contaminants. This is caused by the string of molecules being broken down in the oil if it remains in the engine for too long due to irregular oil change intervals. The thickened oil cannot be pumped through the engine oil passages, vital components etc. This increases the work load on the oil pump and weakens it gradually until pressure reduces to a point when the oil light circuit is triggered; hence the oil light on the instrument cluster.

Also using the correct oil grade specified by the manufacturer is crucial for engine longevity and efficiency.

Good luck!

That's the first time I am hearing that an ECM (engine control module) is detecting a wrong fault code! As long as the check engine lamp is on and you have retrieved P1135 from the scan then this is the trouble area that needs to be diagnosed. Please for now DO NOT allow your mechanic to touch the engine control module (computer). On what basis is he running the electrical tests with his tester? Does he have a factory wiring diagram and all the manufacturer specific information?

This is not a complex fix. As rightly said by some members here it is probably not the best idea to buy a used A/F sensor, but if your mechanic has basic knowledge of engine electronics, sensor range's and how to operate a good diagnostic scan tool (with live data stream), you could actually read the range in which the existing A/F sensor is operating and then get a used A/F sensor (for testing purposes) and read the range of that, then compare to manufacturer specific parameters. It needs to be working as close to 3.3 volts to maintain the perfect air fuel mixture. Anything too low indicates a rich mixture (too much fuel) and anything too high indicates a lean mixture (too much air).

You may email me your vehicle information (year & chassis (VIN) number) to md_autos@yahoo.com. I will check the availability of the new A/F sensor for you.

Regards

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Please feel free to email offers to md_autos@yahoo.com

As rightly pointed out by dizzy bizzy the A/F sensor (Bank 1) is located in the exhaust manifold facing the radiator. The sensor located in the rear (as pointed out by your mechanic) is the oxygen sensor (Bank 2). This is placed after the catalytic converter and detects the catalyst efficient by measuring the oxygen content in the exhaust. This is a short range sensor, unlike the A/F sensor.

Code P1135 relates to the A/F sensor on the exhaust manifold. It indicates heater circuit malfunction (not within range) and the ECM trips the code. The A/F sensor is a wide range sensor which needs to reach it's operating temperature as quick as possible as the ECM uses it to maintain the air fuel ratio at stoichiometric point which is 14.7 :1. At this point the tailpipe emissions are also kept at their minimum and fuel injection (pulse width) will be at it's optimum. The A/F sensor operates at a much hotter temperature at approx. 600 - 650C compared to the oxygen sensor at approx. 400C.

In your case the as this code is present the ECM has tuned off the A/F heater detection circuit. What this means is as the sensor it not reaching it's operating temperature is producing very little voltage feedback, or none to the ECM. Without proper feed back to the ECM injection time cannot be properly controlled; hence the duty cycle of the injectors will be increased and more fuel will be injected/consumed. This is in failsafe mode. A this point tailpipe emission (excess hydrocarbons) will also shoot up. You may be also noticing a peculiar smell from under the vehicle / rear (exhaust side) and possibly blackish exhaust smoke from the rear muffler when the engine is accelerated.

You could read the live data stream from a compatible scan tool. The A/F sensor works on a 3.3 volt reference at the ECM. it is designed so at 14.7 :1 there is no current produced; hence the voltage put out by the ECM is 3.3.

In your case from a data stream reading the voltage output produced by the detection circuit will be BELOW 3.3 v. This indicates a RICH MIXTURE.

You need to get the system back to the reference voltage of 3.3v. Other factors may also aid in this.

Most likely A/F sensor will require replacement. You will not get a new one here. A good condition fairly used one may be available, but you will need to check the live outputs with a scan tool.

Alternatively, although NOT ADVISED and not professional, if you have the time you can get a few and change them out until you notice a difference in the mpg's. Also, once the A/F sensor heater circuit is turned on and it is operating within range the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) will turn itself off after one or two drive cycle's.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

fizzybaba: @ MD.

I am in awe of your knowledge of Hondas

Please my 2005 CRV Steering pump just failed. Where do i get a good one and at how much?

Plus my VSA and Brake light has been on for 3months now. whats the implication?

I use a mobil super when replacing my car engine. in order?

Thank you

It's a pleasure. You may feel free to email me on md_autos@yahoo.com so I may give you more detailed information. It may not be appropriate to post here as it would be off the topic subject.

Regards

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GREAT DEAL!

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Assuming it's a CR-V 2002 - 2006, they are very relaible vehicle's. I use a '04 model with a 2.0L engine and 50,000kms. No issues, just the routine servicing, a little front suspension work (normal wear and tear / bad roads). Although, one issue prone to the earlier years are the A/C systems. The compressor tends to fail and to replace with a genuine part is rather expensive. I relalced mine with a Malaysian (aftermarket) type 2 years ago and it's working perfectly.

It is essentail you use a good quality engine oil and all genuine service parts (spark plugs, air filter, oil filter) to ensure longevity and smooth performance of the vehicle. The engine oil readily availble here is of a 20w50 grade which is too thick for the CR-V. Honda recommends a 5W20 as per the owner's manual. However; I am running a 5w30 which gives me excellent cold start, quick throttle response (smooth engine) and most importantly very good mpg's (fuel economy).

Honda engines run tight tolerances, so a good quality oil will give you many years of uninterrupted service.

CR-V's (generally Honda's) are very durable. How long the vehicle serves you depends on how you maintain it. 80 - 100,000 is nothing much for Honda engine. I have seen them running well with 150,000 miles plus!

Hope this helps you in your decision!

Good luck!