₦airaland Forum

if u want to sell u can put up d pix and lets value it also considering the issues. or i can help u diagnose and solve d issue. choice is urs

Ikenna351:
It depends on your car, Honda, wiring system. On Peugeot cars, like 2 of my cars, they have sensor on all their radiators, known as radiator sensors. The electric radiator fans & A/C fans are connected to the radiator sensor. The sensor serves as a trigger or switch to the fans. When you start the engine. The temp will still be cold or warm. The fans will be off. When the temp rises to beyond the normal engine operating temp (when you are in traffic jam or the car stationary & engine idling), the thermostat will open, & the hot coolant in the engine walls & cylinder heads, with the help of water pump, will flow into the radiator, while the cold or warm coolant in the radiator will flow into the engine walls. As soon as the thermostat senses or feels the coolant with lower temp, it will close & the coolant will remain in the engine walls. When the hot coolant flows into the radiator, the radiator sensor will sense the hot or high temp coolant. The radiator sensor will then switch on the radiator fans & sometimes the A/C condenser fans, to cool the hot coolant in the radiator. After some seconds or a minute, the coolant temp in the radiator will come low & the sensor will switch off the fans, since the radiator temp has come down to low temp. The fans will remain off for a long time until the thermostat opens again, if the car remains stationary/not moving while engine is on. Breeze that comes in through car front grille while car is moving, especially while on speed, is enough to cool both coolant in the radiator & coolant in the engine walls . So if the car is moving, the thermostat will not open & the fans wont spin. It ensure the lifespan of the fan motor.

But am not sure Hondas have radiator sensor. I think they use CTS (coolant Temperature Sensor) or temperature sensor on thermostat housing to trigger on/switch on the radiator electric cooling fans. If your fans runs constantly, it could be that it has been bypassed & connected to ignition switch to run whenever the ignition is switched on.

Also remember that if the tthermostat is removed, the engine will always run cold & the cts will always send signal to ecu that the engine is always cold. Cts determines the amount of fuel that goes into the combustion chambers via injectors, when engine cold & hot. Engine needs excess fuel to start a cold engine. Cts that senses temperature of coolant, will signal to ecu when starting a cold engine that the engine is cold. The ecu will command injectors to spray in excess fuel for the engine to be able to start, when clanking a cold engine. But when the coolant temp risese, with the help of thermostat, the cts will sense the high coolant temp & will signal to ecu the hot temp of the engine & the ecu will lean or reduce the amount of fuel that injectors spray into the cylinders. That is why thermostat are put in the cooling systems to warm the coolant for cts to lean fuel into the engine. So if thermostat is removed, the cts will always signal to ecu that engine is cold (even if the car has run for two hrs) & the ecu will always command the injectors to spray in excess fuel, believing that the engine is cold all the time. So, thats why removal of thermostat makes engine to consume excess fuel via cts.

Hope that helps?

Ikenna.

ikenna u are correct all the way but i dont agree with you in totality when u say the engine will always run cold. there is never a time when the engine runs cold due to otto cycle in the chambers as u know the qtty of heat that accompanies combustion so i prefer u say the engine would run at a little lower temperature so if this happens then the cylinders are not flooded persay with gas and air because the temperature drop is not so remarkable that will cause the ecu to spray excess fuel like ur painting. if that car consumes notieabbly more fuel than normal then i want to belive there is more to it than just removal of thermostat. if a car runs with thermostat at about 90 degrees celcuis then i can confidently tell u that without thermostat it would still run at about 70 degrees celcuis which is not as cold as u are painting.so i cant agree with u totally on the running cold without thermostat.t-stat was originally meant to combat lower temp running in countries with really low temps and cold regions where liquid is required to remain within the egine walls until it is getting overheated then expelle for fresh one to come in from the radiator which now cools the now hot liquid coolant. bearing this in mind then we can easily see the motive isnt too effective in hot regions like nigeria where average temps soar to around 40 degress in the north. so if u analyse this technically i can guarantee u that as soon as u crank your engine in such temperatures it would take less than a minute for liquids to get heated beyond operating temperatures and ready to be exchanged with that in the radiator. so as u run your engine hotter in such area der comes a coincidence peroid when the thermostat is virtually open all the while and all fans blowing because theres really no weather support for the cooling and liquids in both radiator and around engine walls are operating at optimum temps so the t-stat just remains open and since the width of opening of the t-stat isnt as wide as the whole passge then there is lack of proper scavenging and supply of liquids which may ultyimately lead to overheating. so the most important thing is not just understanding the technology but also understanding what the technology was supposed to combat so u can work around when it fails to suit you.
ultimately ikenna there are times when u may need to tropicalize a car buy removing a thermostat without effect to overall performance. poster should check well abg no be thermostat dey make him car chop fuel. i love this forum. so much knowledge to gain. keep it up all.

@sienna pls find time to start lessons ere by giving us a run down or car sensors and what they monitor or control.

hi all, this thread is for educative purposes to help people who want to go into automotive repairs or serious DIYers. so peeps post links of wiring diagrams, ECU schematics or wateva can be of help to broaden the knowledge and reduce knowledge gap . this thread should be more of auto section library.
thanks all.

i'll also pen down sienna. he is a real force to rekon wif in auto secton.

available

lest i forget dont forget to update us when u get this issue resolved as this served as a learning point for all of us ere.

from my years of study in electronic and computer engineering its a fact that any thing electronic isnt failsafe at all. your airflow meter can fail as many times as it likes cos it contains ICs, transducers and other semiconductor components which operate at set condition so if your vehicle violates any of these then we have an issue. if u knew how to use a multi meter or osciloscope then u can test it but ind absence of dat na plug and play testing you go do o!

i beleieve u need a honda baby scrap!

try both numbers 08034688034 or 08076249883
i work in vi too and i will use it to the office tomorrow if u wan to come for inspection

holu27:
I've been trying to call you but couldn't get through. Is the car still available? I work in VI and will like to come for an inspection if u do bring it to work

still available

still available

it think you guys are taking the search too wide for a start. since this problem is intermittent then im very sure its electronic. basic queries have to be run here. confirm the ignotion coil, supplies voltage form both the ignition end and spark plug end. if it does then that exonerates the brainbox too. one thing you must test too is voltage supply to the nossles for each cylinder and finally this very stubborn man that is usually the case with most strating issues(mr MAF)
had a similar issue wif a car that would start then when you engage power dops and the car goes off. also it would start and wen the engine heats it would stall and die out. i had to cool down to check almost everything and low and behold mr MAF agai.() airflow meter. this goes to most guys that believe the only symptom to bad MAF is black smoke from tail.

going soon but still available.

intermittent issues are not lways easy to trickle until they become prominent but ur issue seem a bit prominent to me. first i idont think this is a mechanical issue. what u have to do is try ascertain the frequency of occurrence and when it occurs. you have to be able to establish a pattern. since u say it starts after a while then i suggest it should be taken away from those mechanics doing trial and error. take it home and try to start it at intervals but dont drive rather let it idle till apoint when it goes off or till it shows some misbehaviours.lest i forget how old is this car? what changes have u made? what model? have u experienced issues with this vehicle before. history of this car will also help to narrow down. we have to establish a behavioural pattern. this is my advice for now atleast in the absence of a scantool else a scan should tell more.

runs fine and still available!

the only problem i see with the V-engines is just a little more complications for most auto mechs. everything seems double due to the dual nature of the design. crankshaft, firing order more complicated and position of the main and big-end journal is 120 degress instead of conventional 180 degrees(crankshaft). so timing seems more difficult. working area is reduced due to cumbersome engine design. since most engine parts are duplicated then maintenance cost duplicates too and since we virtually have 2 seperate engine then there is also more failure point. in general our auto mechs dont have the technical know how to handle the V-engines for now. so they'll always runaway from it.
this is what i see as an issue but as for me i think a well and regularly maintained vehicle should serve you long enough before you begin to experince serious issues. i personalyy have the habit of delving into automobile models people complain most about and most of the time i never have issues because i hold maintenance with a very high esteem.
maintenance is the key to avoiding killer automobile issue

there is nothing wrong. you can come and inspect as a serious buyer has done already.
still available.

the car is ready for inspection any time. i live in festac and work on the island. serious buyer can call for any negotiations.
still selling and selling cos i wanna buy a bike.

Mazda 626 (Registered) For Sale.

Details:
Full Ac,
Automatic Transmission,
4Cylinder engine,
Cd player,
Fabric Seat,
Am/Fm,

PRICE: 350K(firm)
Call 08034688034, 08076249883

my main concern with the auto is the engaging technology and slip involved when taking off. from my personal findings, each time u leav from rest on your auto tranny a part of your leather burns esp wen u depress the brake so ive made it a point of experiment to go onto N first then unto D without depressing my brakes. anoyingly its difficult to control transmission on the auto so you can hadly conserve power and fuel by riding slow on a high gear as done with manual.
my man ders a million and one other issues as u have rightly highlighted. the cumputer control unit also creates a multiple point of failure as issues are more difficult to drill down to.

bros d day i leave naija or the day traffice ceases in naija its manual all the way cos i can now burnout at will!!!
nice technical post siena it takes real indepth knowledge to understand these intricacies and technology.
kudos bro

well said all. nissan cannot be too reliable on em space buses.

what do they mean by durable. do u want to use it for 20yrs? bros i currently use a mazda booth and still on point with ac tight and every working fine. so pls what is durable abeg. any car not properly maintaned wont last. maintenance is the key. i can give u all d information in the world u need about mazda or any car whether 2nd hand or toks. 08034688034

pls who can help me pull out error codes from my mazda 626 1996? the car is acting funny and i need to pull out the trouble codes.

mileage and location of this vehicle!

guy plesase this thing is still funny and confusing to me cos i synonymize gearbox oil checking to engine oil checking but why is it that people say the right way to check gearbox oil is while the engine is running? is it true? is it while engine is running or engine is standing that you gauge for gearbox?

congrats to all you drivers. im a proud biker of 300km/h on benin bypass on a ninja1200