From the image you attached, I see it is a hybrid inverter you use.
There is a need to reduce the charging voltage to 28.8V as opposed to the 31V you currently do have and float voltage to 27V. What is happening now is that your battery is undergoing an unprepared equalisation charging state, which should only be once a month.
You will need to consult our manual to understand what i have written above.
quote author=kuma007 post=135082431]Please I am not a technical person. I just need advice. Kindly advise me please.
Attached is the pic of the UI of the inverter[/quote]
You will need a 5kVA/6kVA inverter hybrid (Deye, Growatt, Tbb) or conventional type (victron, Tbb, felicity) if you need to run both the AC and pump simultaneously
But if you plan to be self-conscious and know you won't run both together, then going for 3.5 kVA is a better choice.
For the ideal solar power, you will need around 6,500 Wp of solar panels (Jinko, JA, Longi, Canadian) and a 120A solar charge controller.
Lastly, with your budget i see things coming together in a 3.5 kVA range, especially when inverter, solar panels and BOS are all factored in.
quote author=Ahyjo post=135077118]Hello experts in the house. I’ve been following all the discussions diligently especially the recent ones with regard to the lithium batteries. I am about to upgrade my system to be able to take a 1.5HP AC and also my 1HP submersible pump. Please I need your advice on the appropriate inverter to get ( both KVA (minimum required) and brand ) , the best lithium battery (14-15kwh) and CC (if the suggested inverter is not hybrid), and lastly the appropriate PV array. Thank you. As we all know these things don’t come cheap, so it’s better for one to do due diligence before investing in them, and there’s no better place to get appropriate information like here. Please advise me based on experience and not brand specifications.
My working budget is 3M - 3.5M Kindly advice please.[/quote]
Something to note is that when you add panels in series in range of 500-1000V cable sizes like 6mm can work just fine and this is also related to most residential and commercial projects.
HeavenlyBang: Higher current means higher cable costs and higher losses.
There's a reason why electricity is transmitted at high voltage, not high current.
since this was fixed temporarily before when you had it disconnected, i will advise that you have a pv breaker and a battery breaker on the charge contoller so you can reset it everytime the error pops up.
BigDickProblems: I’m really seeing this Felicity charge controller as being useless and overhyped. It’s really frustrating.
Check the link on my profile via a laptop and put in your loads as you intend, the answer will be at the bottom of the page
munchies: Please I need a recommendation on the best system to install in my house. Daytime loads will be only the freezer which is less than 200w
Night time is about 10 energy saving bulbs which won't be on at same time, TV is 50w, 1 laptop which won't be on all the time, about 5 phones for charging, Please what inverter, battery capacity can I use? What number of panels and watt will be suitable for charging with sun?
You can take the proactive way by getting a voltmeter and it displays your voltage for you where you will constantly see or monitor the battery level.
OR
you can just take the reactive way and order a 80A 12-30Vdc LVD on aliexpress for a easy setup (this way you set your desired voltage [12.1-12.4V] minimum
You can take the proactive way by getting a voltmeter and it displays your voltage for you where you will constantly see or monitor the battery level.
OR
you can just take the reactive way and order a 80A 12-30V dc LVD on aliexpress for a easy setup (this way you set your desired voltage 12.1-12.4V minimum
You can take the proactive way by getting a voltmeter and it displays your voltage for you where you will constantly see or monitor the battery level.
OR
you can just take the reactive way and order a 80A 12-30V dc LVD on aliexpress for a easy setup (this way you set your desired voltage 12.1-12.4V minimum
compunigeria: I have a lithium battery but my inverter has a very low LVD( 10.5v).
Please what are my options in order to avoid low voltage disconnect from my BMS.
Abeg my DIY ogas and any user/ installer that has faced similar issue, i need una help.
Can l have a situation where l keep the old generator cable but run a cable just for the solar inverter, where the solar inverter only powers lights and selected sockets.
I recently bought a solar generator (Ecoflow Delta 2) . I would like advice on how to connect it to the house to that it can power up my house lights and 2 sockets for fridge and Tv.
Presently l use extension cables to power my fridge and entertainment centre.
You have an interesting and quite peculiar case, please share your solar panel arrangement pics Battery and controller and other items pics sticker of inverter or picture
Lastly, how do it behave if or when you turn on the fridge.
Also, as a last resort, turn of all loads and use only the fridge, if it works, then continue to practices this simple tweak.,
preyeamaorutobi: Good afternoon, great people. I found out about this wonderful solar forum just last night, and I took my time to read some comments. I really appreciate everyone here for their time invested in answering questions.
Please, I'm a newbie on this. I just got these solar systems. Glow Energy 1.5kVA 12V Inverter Glow Energy 220ah 12V Battery Felicity Mppt Charge Controller 60ah, 100W Panel 6, and 300W Panel 2.
I got them about two weeks ago, and I found out that it can't power my inverter fridge with these specs.
Rating 220-240v, 50/60Hz Rated current: 1.15A Defrosting input: 220v/230-2240v Rated input of heater cord: 95w Annual energy consumption: 235 kW/year Rated power input: 65w Dimensions: 555 (W) x 585 (D) x 1520 (H) mm
I use the system for my 50-inch smart TV 120W 1 laptop lighting. Power bank.
I never knew it wouldn't be able to power my fridge; I felt it would because it is an inverter fridge. My mistake was not doing proper research before getting it. So please, what will you advise I do or change to enable it to power the fridge and also a washing machine of 7.5 kg?
Ijeoma660: I have added another 5kwh to my setup to enable ne have 1 day autonomy. I alao have a timer switch for my freezer. Previously when I had only 5kwh battery installed It switches on the freezer by
On 8.30am and Off 5.30pm
Based on this arrangement by morning my battery is about 35% (5kwh)
But after adding another 5kWh making a total of 10kWh battery. I did a calculation and arrived at the on/off times for the freezer
On 6am and Off 11pm
By morning my battery's percentage is at +/- 60% (10kWh)
If it happens to be a cloudy weather I cam go on without the need for grid dependency.
This way i don't worry anyone with switching off the lights when not in use etc...
Cost of equipment so far Inverter 423k LFPB 5kWh 1.350m LFPB 5kWh 1.071m PV array 18nos x 300Wp 480k. (warehouse clearance sale) Timer switch 12k WiFi module for online control and monitor 51k
Load on the system 1. TVs 2nos (65 and 47inch 2. Fans 5nos 3. Microwave 4. Freezer 250L 5 Bedside fridge 6. Several LED Light 7. Home entertainment 8. Laptop etc.
Its amazing I have bo idea whether there is NEPA light or not.
You need a multimeter to do an actual test of continuity on the fuse and confirm if they are still active.
noel76: Good morning house, please i need inverter expert help in here, i have an eco solar 3.5kva 48v inverter, 3 days ago during the rain d light went off and refused to stay on, it always trip off went d inverter is powered on, and d display is showing "fuse trip" how do i go about it? D inverter uses 4 batteries and 8 solar panels
isangjohnson: I need original Canadian panels to be shipped to Uyo. Who has a link to where I can get the original one? Fouani store doesn't have 580w at the moment?
Is there a reason why he will or should bond Neutral to Earth?
This isn't really code compliant. IMO
brightk: IMHO, if u had a main db in that house and bonded ur neutral to earth.. i think only that breaker controlling the fridge will trip. and that shock wont be there. U touchin the fridge seems to complete the circuit for flow of current.
. There is more to this earthing stuff than wat the eye can see.... EXperts in the house,, does anyone have experience bonding neutral and earthing on ur main db panel?
The purpose of earth on appliances is to take dangerous voltage as the case of a metal container of an appliance touching the live conductor.
For you purpose, I believe 1. Your fridge has a rust which in turn has bridged a live conductor somewhere, hence the light voltage shocks received 2. Your earth might need improvement, as i believe it has probably had a resistive buildup, hence the shock you may be receiving. 3. check your water supply for the shower and see where you have electricity been in the mix of your setup. (suspect is likely water heater) try and ensure this is grounded and free from rust - live container bridge.
durodee: Please what could cause my freezer to start shocking? We travelled for a few days and on return I noticed that. Just a mild shock initialy but it got worse today. Only the freezer initially, now the shower shocks IF the freezer is on. Freezer content remained well preserved. I have been using the freezer actively for years (likely 4 years or more though I bought it @12 years ago) . I have tested the socket- not guilty. The freezer works BUT CONSUMES ABOUT 1.5KW/h of power rather than the usual @200w . I noticed that today. Once I disconnected the freezer, everything becomes normal