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While the header can slide on the gantry from left to right, in an axis i shall refer to as X axis. The gantry will also sit on rails and can move forth and back, in an axis i shall refer to as Y axis. The header can slide up or down in an axis i shall refer to as Z axis. The header can also make not more than 360 degrees rotation, either in the clockwise or counter clockwise direction, in an axis i shall refer to as R axis.
The aforemention axis has a signal that tells each the length to move, either in the plus (+) direction or minus (-) direction.
With all these aformentioned capabilities, the machine can be made to build houses of different shapes and styles automately, once it's fed with a programe, the right size of casted block and concret.

In this same header, there is a movable arm that has a hose attached to it, capable of squirting concrete with pressure in the horizontal plane. This arm needs a signal from the Arduino to tell it what to do. The signal coming in the form of pulses, each pulse representing a pre-determined distance that it would move while squirting concrete. After these pulses arrive, the arm moves down 50 cm from where it was, moves left 100cm, (i am using 50cm and 100cm as an example).. The hose then starts squirting concret as it moves the distance defined by the signal it received untill it stops. At the end of the stop, the arm does the opposite of what it did before coming to squirt concrete. That is: it starts moving right 100cm, then move up 50cm back to its previous position.
The function of this arm, is to squirt concrete in the horizontal plane.

The function of this two pumps, are to squirt concrete in the vertical plane.
Within this header, there is a block saw that is capable of cutting a block at any length. Just provide the signal representing the lenghth to be cut, and it does just that. The grip holding pumping B, gets the information update whener the command to cut a block is sent. It waits for the cut to be done, then it changes it's position. From the update, it knows how near to move towards the cut block, to make a gripping contact. After which it will return to it's previous position. This sequence is vital.

On top of the gantry will be a header as i choose to call it. The header will have a feed system that feeds pre cast blocks to it. Whence a certain pulse is given, and a block is available at the header, the header will perform the following sequence: Two grips will stick out, grip the block at both upper ends,lengthwise. Attached to each of these grips are two hose, namely pump A and pump B. They convey concrete. These two hoses can be activated to squirt concrete, or deactivated independently. Once the grip has gripped the block, it moves a couple of inches downward, and wait for a signal. 3 outputs give it 3 different signal.. One output signal tells it to activate pump A or keep it deactivated, another signal tells it to activate pump B or keep it deactivated, then the third signal tells it to release the grips on the block and withdraw back to it's previous position.

This project wouldn't be easy,but finally it could be accomplished. The technology required is already here..
The machine will be driven by a microprocessor,e.g Arduino...
So, before the machine can commence to building a house,some codes would have to be uploaded to the Arduino. It is this codes that will direct the 3D printer to build the house. The machine will be a giant gantry like in the pix below.

My name is kingsley Obinna, aka pakingzzz. I am a native of Abia state, Nigeria.
In this thread, i am going to publish the technical details of my work-in progress, as i build a 3D house printer.
This machine is going to be capable of building a family sized bungalow, from german floor level to roofing level without the direct involvement of human labour ...
The project isn't claiming to be capable of building an entire house without human labour involvement.
Here's how the machine works.
The foundation would be dug by human labour and the necessary blocks placed in place, the floor casted. The machine would then start operation from the casted floor level, laying each block one at a time whilst squirting concret at the right places. It does this operation all round, untill a 1st coache has been established. It then move up a bit, and repeat the sequence. It does this untill it gets to the roofing height level, it then stops.
Once upto roofing level, human labour would then take up from there, doing the necessary fittings, plumbings, wirings and roofings etc.
The benefits of this machine sticks out like a boil..
This machine can invoke things like: Reduction in the cost of building a house by 30-40%.
Reduse the time it takes to build a house.
Reduction in direct human labour involvement.

Lo and behold,what i suspected... My lipo battery was dead!
It dropped to 8.91v just instantly as i opened up the throttle.

Then i spun it up.

Next,i hooked up the battery the the plane,with the meter connected to the battery.

Charged the battery to the full, and had it checked by my digital meter. It reads 12.02v.

toyo4souls:
where can I get electronic board materials and arduino

Check here; https://www.nairaland.com/1815945/call-it-arduino

I tested the unit today. It was nicer than i had expected.
Using my scale as a modified setup,i tried to measure the thrust of the prop. I got 400g at full throttle stick! Very low. I thought odd of that. On measuring my battery,i found the voltage had droped to 8.7volts.
I decided to run the test with a 12volt car battery. I got 960grams of thrust from it,with a low pitch of 7.5 degrees on the prop.
I guess my battery was down or bad. I am now charging it. When it's full,i shall repeat the exercise with a meter to see how low the battery drops voltage. If it's too much,i shall presume the battery has reached it's dead end,and look for a better battery.

Now to install the props and swash on to the gearbox. First,i removed the two props so they won't be in my way. And i mounted the piece as a single unit.

Screwing time,so i screwed the arms.

Offcourse it wasn't. I gave it a little twist and that did the job.,it was well aligned now..

It was coupling time. I installed the props and slide in the swash to see if the two arm were well aligned or not.

Next i twisted the arm, so they would lie parallel and sit well with the prop arm when screwed together.

I bent the two arm at an angle of 90 degrees.
The two arm would latter hold the prop holder. The hole you see drilled on them,would hold the prop holder by virtue of a screw..

On to the next stage.
It remained for the blades to be mounted..
I had a problem with my prop holder,it wasn't fixed . Being a variable pitch prop holder from a helicopter,i had to look for a way to make them fixed. I figured some sort of jig that looks like a swashplate would do the job.
So to design the swashplate(permit me to use that name),i took a little sheet of aluminum, took my necessary measurement,and i went to work.
Below is the swashplate after i had it cut,and drilled the necessary holes. It remained for the two arm to be bent on both sides.

Now on to the propeller...
I modified my helicopter blade by cutting the length of the blade,to serve as a prop. I also had to balance them.
The pix below is the converted prop,held together by a screw. The blade measures 14cm each.

Next,i coupled the other aluminum template. And here's the finished gearbox.

After drilling the holes,i went on to couple the gears with screws to one of the aluminum template..

After drilling the holes,i went on to chisel the two required rectangular slots,to make room for the gears.

I needed two of that shape,so i made them.

Then i proceeded to calculating the position of the required holes to be drilled and chiseled.

From the real live simulation i carried out,the shape i deduced for the gearbox happened to be like the one in the pix below.

The next thing was to acquire an aluminum sheet. The best place to get that was in my mother's kitchen. So i grabbed one of her pot cover when she wasn't looking.
The pix below shows me working on the pot lid. Am trying to cut out the edges so as to get at the round sheet.

A close up shot of the drive train and reduction direction.

Next goes the brushless motor.

Next goes the modified gear with its two bearing blocks.

With these vital component at hand,next was to simulate how they would sit in relation to each other....
This is where a Cad comes handy,but lacking one,i decided to do it the hard way. Real live simulation!
Then goes the two bearing block,into the shaft. Next goes the gear.

Some more bearing holders.
The two upper holders have a slightly bigger bearing. So they have been modified by fabricating a custom ring,so the shaft that goes in there,would be a nice snug fit.