₦airaland Forum

More micro bearing and a bearing holder (bearing block).
A brushless motor with it's mount.

In the upper part of the pix,is the micro bearing that will hold the modified gear.

One of the gears have been modified to have dual in line gear.

Below is the gears i got from two standing fans.

The modification saw no use for my old prop,and as such,a new prop holder had to be come in.
I decided to use an Align 550 tail blade holder as my prop holder.
The pix below is the prop holder,and the shapft being fixed in.

It is one thing to buy a store bought reduction gearbox, and it's another thing to build a custom built one yourself.
Because the gears i choose to use, has a teeth gap of 1mm,and a height of 0.8mm. To design a gearbox with those gears, using homebuilt technique, would require precise calculation and measurement for the required length of the spacing and installment of the meshing gears, if it was to work,so the gear tooth tolerance won't be too tight nor to loose.

Pakingzzz:
I think am really in for a big suprise!
My helicopter blades were doing 2600 Rpm. And here am having my home-made prop doing some 8,970 Rpm!
At that speed,it was really at ballistic speeds!

Add that to the thrust of the craft. It wasn't satisfactory to me. There is alot of inefficiency in the system,add that to the rate at which it drains my battery. It didn't go well with known theories.
Hence the need to modify the gearbox.
If i can recall correctly. In my gearbox,the prop gear was gotten from a standing fan. It has 59 tooth.
On the other hand,the pinion on my brushless motor has 13 tooth,so that gives a reduction ratio of 4.5:1.

After some fidling. I finally got two more gears from a standing fan.
I intend to shrink the gearing ratio further down,to accomodate a bigger and longer prop. So i've settled for a gearing ratio that will fall between 10:1 and 15:1.

patrickkkk:
Man am following u, and happy new year to u. I hope to work with u on similar project this year. I am quite skilled in building flying objects. Pls may I have your email my is ......jetplain39@gmail.com

Happy new year to you too.. My email; kingsleyobinna26@yahoo.Com

That's pretty good that you are skilled in building flying. What crafts do you fly?

I think am really in for a big suprise!
My helicopter blades were doing 2600 Rpm. And here am having my home-made prop doing some 8,970 Rpm!
At that speed,it was really at ballistic speeds!

That's 5,246.9 Rpm with a low battery!
Next,i took the throttle stick to full stick,and the Tach registered 8,970.3 Rpm.
I guess i shall be getting more of that when i charge up my airplane battery.

After securing the tape stuck to the new position,i revved up the prop and switched on the Tach. Although i was doing this with a low battery,i went ahead because i just wanted to get some readings displayed on the Tach. So i grabed my Tx and kept my throttle stick at middle,and below was the reading i got.

Did some work on the prop. I relocated the reflective tape towards the shaft.

I had like 20 pieces of used 100Ah batteries. Just wanted to test you with the solar panels,and now you're turning it down.

Tried to read the Rpm of the propeller today,but to no avail.
This was partly because,the reflective tape that comes with the Tachometer,got lost enroute. So i was forced to fabricate something as close to a reflective tape. The result was'nt acceptable as the Tachometer refused to read.. I suspected poor reflectivity.
I shall look for a material with high reflectivity.

oluwafemim:
I buy used Atm,solar and inverter batteries.Any sellers in Nigeria should call me on 08089339520.

Looks like you aint serious.. Am travelling to Abuja next week,and if i do,that will close our chapter.

The pix below are the solars i have:
The one to the left is the 80watt solar,and the one in the right is the 150watt..

The specs of the 80watt are as follows;
Yingli solar. Made in Germany.
Voc=21.6v
vmp=17.2v
current=4.6A
cell technology=Monocrystalline.

The specs and make of the 150watt are as follows;
Bitec corporation tokyo. Made in japan. 150w.
Voc=21.4v
Vpm=17.2v
current=8.8A
cell technology= Monocrystalline.

Henry120:
Oga sidajili, please, what's the status of the Gulma?
1)Are we any closer to large scale production?

2) Is the Gulma currently seeing operations in the North-East?

3) The Ichoku "glider" drone, has any progress been made on further developments, are we any closer to seeing a flying prototype?

@Henry,thats ridiculously absurd!
Why derail the thread when you know the right place to bring up that issue?

I have used solar batteries,100ah,and solar panel 80watts and 120watts. My number is 07015387845. Or can we talk business here?

The front view with the laser on.

Last month,i had a friend of mine to order a digital tachometer for me online. The tachometer was made in china and cost roughly N1,200 naira..
I just received it today.
It could be set to display in Rpm (rotation per minute) or Rps (rotation per second). With a reading accuracy of up to 150,000 Rpm. I guess it would come handy in my present and consequent projects.
But first of all,i shall use it to determine the propeller Rpm!

Below is the Tachometer with the laser cover on.

litaninja:
entry & learning curve shouldn't be too steep. Anyone, flying quads here? I might need some pointers!
)

Yeah entry and learning curve is steep.. Am interested in Quads but aint ventured into it yet,but i'll certainly venture into it this year.

giles14:
pks I will like d 2.5kw

Ok,call me..

Deyou:
Imagine taking this effort of yours to the market.

quite profitable i would say.

Here's the craft this morning.

DaBullIT:
That being said , have you thought about tactical application of the device / reasons why government would want to buy in large quantities ?

Offcourse.. That was the reason why i installed a cam on the nose of the heli. So it could act as a Drone,/Unmanned Aircraft Systems for Aerial Mapping, Survey, Cinematography and Reconnaissance.

I did some little work on the craft today...
I had come to conclude and accept that the material i used in building the airplane beeing white in colour, would blend with the sky once airborne,causing visual distortion for me during a flight session.
Hence the need to put some heavy mark or some sort of painting on the body. So it would seem like a beacon within a hundred yards or so in the sky..
I decided i would just paint some vital edges on the craft,so that once in flight,it can silhouette the sky enough for me to see it...
Using a transparent tape,i taped the edges of the wings,rear stabilizers,rudder,elevator,propeller and under-belly of airplane...
Then,with a slightly thinned green paint,i sprayed a series of dotted lines on the taped edges. Allowed it to dry..
As i write this,i am sitting down watching my lipo batteries charge.. Am done for now with the plane. Looks like i'll be going to the field tomorow morning for a maiden. However,if i do,i'll make a video of it. And post it.

PapiWata:
Parkingzz, I don't understand why you are making your own propellers, since home-made props are bound to be so much harder to balance to prevent vibration. Just looking at that METAL 4-blade propeller on your plane, I will venture to say that the bird will NEVER fly with that heavy, clearly unbalanced propeller concept.

You look at a picture and suddenly get a feel of the magnitude of the weight huh? You must be a genius!
As for the propellers,they aint bound to be so much harder to balance,if you know the know-how... Don't look at the seemingly 4 metal blade as you call it. Just wait and look at the video and you will see the thrust that thing produces that lifted the craft a couple inches off the ground.. That's no metal 4 bladed propeller. They are two seperate propellers. One is a factory built plastic prop,and the other is an aluminum version. Practicaly,it was found that the two props gave twice the thrust when only one prop was used. As for the balancing,the prop was precisely built such that the balancing needed isn't much. Needful to say that i didnt even balance it,just spun it and check the vibration,it was well within tolerable limit. Mind you no prop is 100% balanced.

PapiWata:
Go with factory bought propellers, and save yourself a whole ton of pointless "busy work".

You call that pointless "busy work?"
The last i checked,factory bought props weren't for free..
It's not much fun me building that prop. There's not much fund here for me to buy a factory one nor order one,ok. What you saw me use were donated to me from Britain when i was building my rc helicopter last year. If you gave me one then why should i waste my time on pointless "busy work".

PapiWata:
I think you can really speed up your progress by avoiding any tasks that are akin to re-inventing the wheel.

Nothing is.... What i am doing here is,trying to get what i can't get, if i should wait for money to arrive.. And if i had done that so i wouldn't be re-inventing the wheel,then there wouldn't be this thread.

Here's the modified airplane..

The wing of my airplane was modified to have ailerons and flaps seperately. I used one servo for each. The servos are mounted inside the body of the airplane,and control rods are used to transmit the movements to the ailerons and the flaps.

The gearbox installed into the nacelle.

Below is a pix of my reduction gearbox.