₦airaland Forum

The screw then goes into the middile of the bearing.

Followed by the little black piece.

Subsequently,in goes one of the washers,into the screw.

Then i needed a screw and that little piece you see in the picture.

To make that mod,i would need two washers,with a circumfrence slightly larger than the middle of the bearing..
So i made them.... I ran out of aluminuim,so i switched to using a vero board.

It was time to install the landing gears on to the chasis.
The best method would've been to use some screw and nut to install it. But unfortunately,the circle in the middle of the bearing is too big and wide that it would swallow up any screw.
So it sure needed some little modification.

I weighed the setup. It was weighing around 45gramms. Not much of some weight..
For an airplane that would have a weight of not more than 900gramms,a landing gear weighing 45 grammes isn't a problem. The problem was the strength of the landing gears. But as long as i was concerned,their strenght was superb.

The pix below shows the bearings,installed.

Here's the landing gear. Lying beside the landing gears are the three bearings that would sit into the middle of the tyres.

Here,i am using the black cylindrical pipe to create a hole in the middle of the landing gear. This is done by slightly taping the end of the pipe with a hammer. I had had to sharpen the edges of the pipe,so it could easily cut through like a knife.

Next is to measure the diameters at 180 degrees,then divide it to get the radius (centre). It is from this radius that i place my pair of dividiers,then scribed out a circle that has exactly the same radius as the black cylindrical metal pipe which i shall be using shortly soon,to create a hole in the middle of the landing gears. These holes are where their bearings would sit.

The sequence is reapeted twice more,to get the three required landing gears.

It continues gradually,untill the tin eats through the rubber slipper.

Fash20:
I'm following you bumper to bumper

Lol... Hope u guys will give me some breathing space

After that,the whole setup is flipped over,and the taping resumes,but this time from a different side.

Taping lightly around the edges of the tin with a hammer.

Now on to the landing gears. I used a bathroom slipper(rubber slipper) for making my landing gears since the are soft and could provide a shock absorber effect. This will come handy when making landings.
I started with a Gino tomato tin,cut it with a scissors so its edges are sharp enough to cut through the rubber slipper.

Below i am weighing the chasis. It weighs 80grammes. Although abit on the high side,it is much as i could shrink it. Anything further would compromise the structural strength of the chasis.

Below is the chasis.

Get a 40% increase in watt from your existing solar panels,by using a solar tracker.

Anyone ever heared of solar trackers?

For those who havn't. It is used to track the position of the sun,as it moves across the sky in a westerly direction from dawn to dusk. So it points the solar panel directly to the sun.
That means,a solar panel moumted on a solar tracker,will face towards the east in the morning. Then at 12.00 noon,it will face directly to the sky. At dawn,it will face the west.
You can try this out. I've done it multiple times.. For example,take an 80watt solar panel and place it on the sun. Then connect a meter to its two wires. Set your meter in the amps mode. Read the current flowing and note it. Next,tilt your solar panel to like 40 or 50 degrees away from the sun by placing a big stone or block on one edge of the panels. Note the current. You would notice a 40% or more drop in amps.
This is what happens during the time the sun rises. Like from 8.00am to 10.30am. 40%percent of the solar watt is lost. The loss becomes much with a larger system!
This phenomenon occurs because,from 10.30am to 12.00pm,the sun is still rising from the east and isn't directly overhead. The sun aligns properly with the solar panels,from 12.00pm to 2.00pm. The sun goes out of line and doesn't deliver the whole 100% energy,from 2.00pm to 4.300pm. The efficiency rapidly dwindles during this time.
Never mind the angle you see most solar panels being set at. All those companies claims its the best angle to convert the optimum energy out of the sun. It isn't the optimum. The optimum is to align the solar panels towards the sun at intervals,as the sun keeps moving across the sky!
With a solar tracker,you don't need bother about aligning your solar panels with the sun. The solar does it for you.
Noteworthy is the fact that you would notice a 40% or more increase in your solar panels.

I build and install solar trackers of all size. You can contact me via email at kingsleyobinna26@yahoo.com
or call 07015387845, 07062232332.

Get a 40% increase in watt from your existing solar panels,by using a solar tracker.

It is noteworthy to know that it comes at a little extra fare. Not much though.

I have in mind to build an aircraft weighing not more than 900 or 1000 grammes. To achieve that,i have to take it easy on the way i choose my material.
I choosed to work with aluminuim,vero boarm,as these are very strong and light weight.

My design would be hinged on designing and building a chasis,designing the main wing,designing the rear wing and rudder. Then joining these three pieces together. The front landing gear(tyre) would sit on the chasis,but not so with the rear landing gear.

In this thread,i will be detailing my work in progress of the homebuilt rc airplane that am currently working on.

Although i had wanted to build this plane,i had started off as soon as the last material i was waiting on arrived. In my possesion,i had a Tx, Rx,servos,gyros,brushless motor,Esc and a lipo. But i hadn't a foamy.
I finally got one,so that started me into the design.

Anything that is a detector,must have a regulated power supply,else the set reference point that it uses to know if there should be a detection will be off,as the power supply changes. With a regulated power supply,there will be nothing like that. Once the reference point is set,it will remain like that for ever.
So this is where my 8 volts regulated power supply you read at the top of this page comes handy. It supplies 8 volts to the led and the photo resistor through a couple of resistors and variable resistors.

Below,i am clading the led with a black cylindrical plastic, to stop the light from scattering from the side of the led.

The two as a piece.

Below is the photo resistor. I got it from an old battery operated camera.
Next is my white led,gotten from a torch.

For my timing,i decided to use an optical timing..
I intend to focus the beam of a white led onto a photo resistor,and have some obstruction to pass through the beam,thereby blocking and unblocking the light beam from reaching the photo resistor.
On the othe hand,the photo resistor would be wired as a light detector. With no light beam,the resistance of the resistor becames extremely high,and produces no current. But with a light beam reaching it,its resistance drops and it produces current.
I amplified this current and used it to trigger the mosfets.

baba11:
Don't you want to patent your work?

No,i don't want to patent this one... It's very sensitive to patents.

Below is a pix of the mosfet am using. They were sitting on an old inverter so i cut it out with a saw,leaving the mosfet and its heatsink intact and unspoilt.
The little circuitry to the left is just an 8 volt regulator. I shall explain why i need this regulated 8 volts. The green and yellow leds on the board by the right are indication led. These leds aint just for beaut sake,they give me a visual indication of when my mosfet is switched on or off. I use this concept whenever am designing a system that relies on timing to work.
Need i say that,my current system relies on timing to work. This is so because,if my timing is wrong,the disc won't turn.
Whenever an electromagnet e.g(air cored electromagnet) is in near proximity of a magnet. No force is felt. But if the electromagnet is energized,forces that have different directions are felt. For example,if the side of the magnet facing the electromagnet was of a north pole. And the electromagnet when energized,produces a north pole,then both will experience a repulsive force. If one of them is kept stationary,like say the electromagnet,the magnet would experience a repulsion when the electromagnet is energed. This happens only when both are aligne in the middle of each other.
Anything off centre,gives a force in a different direction. If for example,the magnets was moved to the right,a few couple of centimetres away from the centre of the electromagnet,and the electromagnet was energized. The magnet would experience a force pushing it horizontaly towards the right,and vice versa.
So for my disc to rotate,the timing has to be done at exactly the right time,just when the magnet is a bit off the centre of the electromagnet,towards the direction of rotation,be it clockwise or anticlockwise. Anything outside this timing would yield little or no movement of the disc.

I had intended to use 4 electromagnets but in the pix above,i am using one.
I wanted to do a little trial and error here,so i can ascertain the optimum number of turns for the copper wire. Then i'll have to install the other three electromagnet and they will all have to be an exact replica of each other,in terms of number of turns of the electromagnet.