₦airaland Forum

chillex8:
Replace the engine thermostat.

I have one that came with the engine. Please, can you tell me why you think the thermostat is the issue?? Since there's no overheating issue?

chillex8:
Do you have a hand-held scanner?
Plug and read ECT when you hear the sound.

Took this screenshot immediately the first sound happened. It seems to get worse with temperature.

chillex8:
Do you have a hand-held scanner?
Plug and read ECT when you hear the sound.

I will do that the next time I drive and feed you back.

Macmilla:
Is this the same car you are now hearing rattling sound from? If yes, then I'm confused at the bold comment.

Thank you for your response. I made that comment a day after changing the engine.

Apparently there was a vacuum leak that made the rpm idle at 800+ after the engine was changed. So I had the hose connected properly.

Something tells me that the sounds is from the transmission. It is intermittent not all the time and it only happens when engine has warmed up.

Two mechanics have said that the gasket is metallic and it's somehow grinding Bla bla bla.. I cannot make sense out of it to be honest.

The second issue is, I still have this low rpm when engine is warm and brake is depressed. I have checked for vacuum leak on the brake booster and done a smoke test twice to detect vacuum leak but nothing.

With brake depressed rpm drops to about 650, which causes vibration but if I use the handbrake without the brakes, rpm is apprx 750.

Also, if I turn on the headlight, Wether brake is depressed or not rpm is stable at 750 because the engine is compensating for the extra load.

I have done a proper idle relearn procedure and I'm not sure what else to do.

Are either of you in Abuja?

Cc: Louiscars

remi4ever:
Update:

I have been coming here to complain about my rough idling and vibration issue for a while now and I have been able to resolve it. Apparently the engine does not compress well anymore as a result of abuse by the previous owner.

So yesterday, I headed to zuba with a friend of mine who's also a mechanic to get a replacement engine.

The engine we got was so clean internally and externally. It was shiny and a direct toks.

After about 3 hours the engine was installed. New engine oil 5w30 and filter was installed.

Car runs silently and not a single vibration when AC and All electrical loads were applied.

Not a single CEL too. Thermostat and original fan config remains. I took the thermostat from the new engine also as a backup for whenever this one fails.

Thank you all for your assistance and guidance. God bless.

Hello guys,

I’m getting a metallic rattling noise from the driver side of the engine bay when accelerating. The best way to describe it is a fast, repetitive crackling sound, almost like an electrical wire burning and making a constant spark against metal.

This problem started before I changed the engine, so it is not coming from the new engine.

Once the engine reaches operating temperature, the noise starts, it's intermittent especially when I'm accelerating. A mechanic told me it might be a gasket issue and suggested removing managing it or changing the gasket, the thermostat and running the fan directly, but there is no overheating at all.

I’m not sure what else to check. I need help.

CC:jceesquare, conner44, macmilla,

Androidking:
Good day every one ,

Honda CrV 2007 model.


On cold start the car ,steam well and sound is ok , but when I started driving for like 10 minutes,

The Rpm will be irregular while on drive , even if I am not pressing the gas pedal the rpm will go as high as 2000rpm , and then drops again to 1000 or 1500 , ... .. sometimes when it's at 2000rpm it will not drop until I press the gas pedal will force , which will high the rpm and make it drop ,


The irregularities in the rpm is annoying and it's affecting the performance and fuel consumption.

I talked to my mechanic he said it could be over heating.


Another issue I noticed is oil indicator flashing every now and then , I have too the oil it's still happening,

I recently changed oil pump , cam shaft , crankshaft

Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak?? ALSO HAVE YOU SCANNED??

Androidking:
Any help

Check for vacuum leaks (especially around the intake manifold gasket and PCV hose).

Clean the throttle body and IACV thoroughly.

Bleed the cooling system to remove trapped air.

Scan the car with an OBD2 scanner to check for hidden codes even if no light is showing.

Check the ECT sensor, if it’s giving wrong readings, replace it.
You mentioned you changed the oil pump, camshaft, and crankshaft, but the oil light still flashes. That’s serious o don’t ignore it.

You should check these...

1. Low oil pressure despite new pump, maybe:

Wrong oil viscosity (too thin)

Blocked oil passages

Worn crank bearings or camshaft bearings


2. Faulty oil pressure switch Sometimes the switch itself is bad, especially if it flickers only at idle.


3. Wiring/connector issue loose oil sensor connector or shorted wire.

chillex8:
You have done well.
I think Honda Accord K20 oil spec is 5w20.

I use an R18 which has been running for 18years plus on 5w20.

Yeah. Thats great. What car is that? Also Honda says 0w20,5w20,5w30 is allowed.

remi4ever:
Hello Everyone. I have been struggling with this issue for a while now.

When driving on rough terrains in the night with my Headlight on full beam, my RPM drops really low when my leg is on the brake or I am trying to turn. Sometimes you even think the car has turned off, but it moves when you step on the gas.

I have checked with a multimeter, my alternator puts out enough voltage, so I am not sure that is the issue. If I turn off my headlights, the issue becomes bearable.

Car is a HONDA ACCORD 2009 with the R20 engine.

No CEL/MIL code. I've noticed that this rarely happens in the morning, or it is less noticeable; it happens when the engine has reached operating temperature. I don't know what else to do...

The thermostat is intact, and the fan is not bypassed.

Things I have tried on my own.

1. Cleaned throttle body.

2. Changed Spark plug.

3. I also tested with another battery.

4. Changed spark plug.

Update:

I have been coming here to complain about my rough idling and vibration issue for a while now and I have been able to resolve it. Apparently the engine does not compress well anymore as a result of abuse by the previous owner.

So yesterday, I headed to zuba with a friend of mine who's also a mechanic to get a replacement engine.

The engine we got was so clean internally and externally. It was shiny and a direct toks.

After about 3 hours the engine was installed. New engine oil 5w30 and filter was installed.

Car runs silently and not a single vibration when AC and All electrical loads were applied.

Not a single CEL too. Thermostat and original fan config remains. I took the thermostat from the new engine also as a backup for whenever this one fails.

Thank you all for your assistance and guidance. God bless.

lebete3000:
Oil company nicca. Twaile, your face show, your shoe shine

No. I'm a Senior software Engineer.

I manage to save 500-600k monthly. But this month I won't save or l I'll save N100k. I got a new TCL 55 INCHES Tv.

mayor2013:
If that's the assumption professionals use on the field while fixing vehicles, a lot of cars would be scrapped daily Once again apply all loads you can apply and revert with alternator output voltage. Thanks

Hello. I fixed the AC 2 days ago and I've been able to take the reading.

After engine is warmed up. I drove 25kms. Full beam headlight with AC On alternator reads 13.73v.

So alternator has been ruled out. I guess the engine is weak, previous owner abused it with wrong oil. ☹️

mayor2013:
If that's the assumption professionals use on the field while fixing vehicles, a lot of cars would be scrapped daily Once again apply all loads you can apply and revert with alternator output voltage. Thanks

I see. So if my AC doesn't work I cannot resolve the issue or tell what's wrong?

Thank you sir.

mayor2013:
Apply Ac and recheck

I have an issue with my ac now. The inner seal is leaking gas. I've not been motivated to do it because of this issue. I also don't think that should prevent or deter any diagnosis.

mayor2013:
What voltage output did you record from the alternator?? You didn't give any figure you only said you tested

With all loads on except AC i still get approx. 13.7v.

ManAdii:
If as you said it happens only when you are using much electrical load. Then you can do a little test to see if the alternator is working well under load.

There is this bluetooth transmitter that you plug into the cigarette that displays car battery voltage. Buy it and plug it in and monitor the voltage under the conditions you normally observe the abnormally.


You can get hint from there.

Thanks for your response.
The vibration and rpm drop is annoying. If I drop it into neutral it stops. I am thinking of getting an alternator to test with.

Hello Everyone. I have been struggling with this issue for a while now.

When driving on rough terrains in the night with my Headlight on full beam, my RPM drops really low when my leg is on the brake or I am trying to turn. Sometimes you even think the car has turned off, but it moves when you step on the gas.

I have checked with a multimeter, my alternator puts out enough voltage, so I am not sure that is the issue. If I turn off my headlights, the issue becomes bearable.

Car is a HONDA ACCORD 2009 with the R20 engine.

No CEL/MIL code. I've noticed that this rarely happens in the morning, or it is less noticeable; it happens when the engine has reached operating temperature. I don't know what else to do...

The thermostat is intact, and the fan is not bypassed.

Things I have tried on my own.

1. Cleaned throttle body.

2. Changed Spark plug.

3. I also tested with another battery.

4. Changed spark plug.

This is why we have technology ffs.

Build a vehicle identification system with unique IDs on all vehicles and drivers. Partner with the FRSC and others and let them also have a portal that allows them scan those vehicles.

That way, it would be very easy to catch imposters.

These ones are Delusionnappers and fucking clowns.


600m indeed.............

vivalavida:
why don't you quote the person you wanna respond to?

Was too lazy to go back so I mentioned him instead.

It's interesting to see the distribution of oil reserves across the globe. It's a shame that having such a valuable resource doesn't always translate to wealth and prosperity for the citizens of these countries. It really highlights the importance of good governance and resource management.

It sounds like you're going through a tough time. It's good that you're recognizing a pattern and want to change. Maybe it would be helpful to take some time for yourself to figure out what you really want in a relationship. Talking to a therapist could also be a great way to get some clarity and support. Wishing you all the best!

Wow, these are mid pictures! The camera on that phone is really impressive. What do you like most about it?

This is a test comment.

Hi tpain121, Macmilla has a good point. It's possible the replacement TPS is also faulty, or there's a wiring issue. Here are a few more things to consider:

1. **Throttle Body:** A dirty or faulty throttle body can also cause TPS-related codes.
2. **ECU:** In rare cases, the ECU itself might be the problem.
3. **Wiring Harness:** Check the entire wiring harness for any signs of damage or corrosion, not just the area around the sensor.

Since you're in Lagos, I'd recommend taking it to a reputable mechanic who has experience with Honda vehicles. They'll have the right diagnostic tools to figure out the exact problem. I hope you get it sorted out soon!

Hi Benagro, it's common for the belt tensioner to be a source of noise in that model. Since you've already replaced the adjuster, here are a few other things to check:

1. **The belt itself:** A worn or frayed belt can cause noise.
2. **The tensioner pulley:** The pulley itself can wear out and cause noise.
3. **Other pulleys:** Check the other pulleys in the belt system (alternator, power steering, etc.) for any signs of wear or damage.
4. **Alignment:** Make sure all the pulleys are properly aligned.

It would be best to have a mechanic take a look to pinpoint the exact source of the noise. I hope this helps!

Hi titohlaw, the error codes you provided indicate issues with the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. These sensors are crucial for engine timing and performance, and a malfunction can definitely cause the issues you're experiencing.

Here's what I would suggest:
1. **Replace both the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors:** These sensors are known to fail over time, and it's best to replace them both at the same time.
2. **Check the wiring:** Inspect the wiring to both sensors for any damage or corrosion.
3. **Check the timing belt:** A worn or damaged timing belt can also cause these issues. If it hasn't been replaced recently, it's a good idea to have it inspected.

It's best to have a qualified mechanic perform these checks and repairs. I hope this helps!

It sounds like you're in an uncomfortable situation. The best approach is to be direct and honest with her. Let her know that you're not interested in a romantic relationship, but you value her as a friend and member of your drama group. It's important to be clear and kind to avoid any misunderstandings.

This is a tragic and incredibly difficult situation. The best and most responsible course of action is to immediately contact the authorities and a lawyer. Do not tamper with anything at the scene. It's crucial to be transparent and cooperate fully with the investigation. My deepest condolences to everyone involved.

She could consider starting a high-quality food delivery service, focusing on a specific niche like healthy meals or traditional dishes. With 3m, she could invest in a good kitchen space (renting a small commercial kitchen), quality packaging, and a reliable delivery system. A breakdown could be:
- Kitchen setup (rent, equipment): 1m
- Raw materials (initial stock): 500k
- Packaging and branding: 300k
- Delivery (bike, logistics): 700k
- Marketing and miscellaneous: 500k

It sounds like you're in a tough situation. It's important to have open and honest conversations with your partner about your concerns and values. Ultimately, you have to decide what's best for you and your future.