Namzy:

One question please. Which one is fairly used since installed? I thought once installed degradation starts or was it installed a d then removed? Or you mean installation period

Didn't want to bring it up but since you did ... you're right. Panel degradation is a function of time exposed to sunshine. If kept in the dark, all is well. If left in the elements, used or unused wouldn't matter, degradation would pursue a relentless course.

makavele:
10.30am

Nice one.

Here's mine at 11:30am. Sadly, when I got back home at 2pm, things had dropped to about 2kW

8:30am

Let's hear some good news from others in the house.

I just love the rainy season. When else can you clock over 800W from a 3kW array at 8am?

Oshomo12:



That's an AC SPD

It's simple, get two wires, one for the live L and the other for neutral N. From ur live line in the distribution box (or wherever u intended using it) connect the wire to the live and terminate the other end inside d L part of d SPD. Do the same for the neutral side and terminate the other end in the N part of d SPD. Under it u have one terminal called the protected earth or so. That where u will connect the third wire which will be terminated in the earth busbar inside ur distribution box. Hope that is clear?

Clear but it appears simplistic hence the second request. Any gotchas? Thanks!

By the way, I have the DC SPD too. Any caveats there?

I need help with correctly wiring this surge arrestor. Any gotchas to look out for?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
The 340watts panels are rather steeply priced on here. If you own them, you can put it on your profile that you use Solar World, a premium 'made in Germany' panel

People will see it and be green with envy and be in awe of your solar greatness.
....

@Sentence in bold font: you're such a jester.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
So the upgrade/expansion bug bit me and I helped myself to an additional 12 units of 300w Canadian Solar Panels out of the 'for sale' inventory I carry. So I now have a 11Kw PV array to play with but need roof space to mount.

I want to sell off my 300w Flames panels to anyone who is interested - I will only sell 12 units at a go please and I'm open to all reasonable offers.

I tried so hard to resist this temptation o but in the end I succumbed.

I still carry brand new Canadian Solar 300w modules at a good price - 52K apiece

Your glowing review of Canadian Solar panels literally forced me to get rid of my solar panels and replace them with Canadian Solar ones. No regrets there. Whatever bug bit you is harbouring a highly communicable infection.

yawwilson:

Hello bro, we are all brothers and Sisters in this great forum ..wish the other "old boys/girls" will continue to visit the forum once in a while to "spice it " up..
Reciprocate your acknowledgement...good day!

My warm regards. I trust you're having a lovely weekend.

mikylon:

thanks bro. but its an MPPT CC.
its called esmart3.

An MPPT might behave as a PWM if the voltage headroom is too small (not so in your case). The voltages you're dealing with are sufficiently high to give dangerous shocks in the daytime. Troubleshooting won't work so well at night either. I think an expert on-site review is your best bet. Pick one you're comfortable with.

kiekie1:
PROMO! PROMO!!!

CANADIAN SOLAR PANELS
270w poly .......N50,000
300w mono .... N55,000
330w poly .......N57,500
340w mono.....N80,000

Contact,
Smartcellglobal
081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

I'm loving this

hardywaltz:


There's something wrong with your installation
If u are getting 120v and 8.5amps from ur panels means that at least 2 strings of panels are not connected properly.

3 panels of 300w connected in series will give u about
120v and 8.5amps

3S4P panels should be giving u 120v (8.5x4)amps ië 120v 38amps.
Kindly note these are simplified calculations actual may vary.

My advise is to do a string by string test and u will definitely find out the faulty strings.

Secondly increase the size of Ur cable from Combiner box (Or solar panels) to Charge controller.

6mm2 (AWG 9) wire is grossly inadequate for 25m run.

Use the following link to calculate voltage drop

https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/voltage-drop-calculator.html

Exactly!

mikylon:
How do i know my charge controller is performing optimally?
I have 12 panels 300watt each, connected 3P4S .
Charge controller is 60A MPPT
3.5kva 4 batteries (200ah each)
But the thing is i hardly get into the absorption stage unless its aided by PHCN power which is not stable.
During peak period i register about 120v for the Panel PV array and a current of 8.5amps going to this battery for charging.
My question is if the current is adequate considering the fact that my CC is rated 60amps

It would appear your controller might be working fine. My spot diagnosis is, your controller is a PWM type. If you have small cable gauges, long distance between CC and panels, CC heating excessively (leading to derating), inappropriate positive grounding or any combination of the above mentioned, you could have problems like what you're currently experiencing.

Next likely culprit is bad panels in the strings.
My recommendations
- first check controller type
- check string currents with a clamp device. If okay, your CC is a PWM regardless of what the sticker states.
Minimize distance between PV panels & CC
- someone posted a chart showing ampacities and cable gauges. There's another for cable gauges with respect to distance and current. Review both.

Easy way out - call an expert. Lots of them here with numbers in their signature

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I agree with the general trend of this analysis, but I would tweak it a bit while keeping prices e.t.c same as you have used.

....

I also now understand my Ogas Duwdu & Saipro's comments about preferring higher voltage arrays for early CC wakeup and later sleep - those little differences may just add up to a tidy advantage over time.

The real advantage is what you're seeing - reasonable energy harvest in otherwise bad weather.

makavele:
3kw array at optimal weather conditions

I've been having the same problem lately. My 3kW array gives about 1.9 - 2kW routine as opposed to previous 2.3 - 2.5kW. I did notice two of the strings are about 1A lower each than the third. Values around midday to 1pm routinely read:
- string 1 ~ 5.5A
- string 2 ~ 5.4A
- string 3 ~ 6.5A
... all within VmP of 107 - 120VDC. All strings identical in composition, cabling and positioning.
Thinking of opening the boxes on the PV units.

Makavele, you're not alone, if it's any solace.

bodeface:
Good morning house.
Please, I need help one of the 4 AGM 200AH (make is hidden for now as I haven't discussed with the seller) I bought about six months ago is giving 10.5V while the rest 3 is giving 12.6V. Desulphator is connected and correct battery setup performed on the Solar charge controller.

Please what are the causes and is there any remedy to salvage the situation.

All info / help appreciated. I will also reach out to the seller. Will update the house.

Your battery is probably beyond salvage. However, best practices vary. Kindly supply more info to help forestall a recurrence
- battery make
- absorb voltage
- duration of absorb
- float voltage
- did you remember to disable automatic equalisation? (many CC have it on auto)
- brand of desulphator
- any other relevant information you might wish to offer

mank1234:

One cell out of the 6 in the battery is bad.
Replace the bad battery and use a good battery balancer.

Nightmare of every enthusiast

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Please who has a contact for local suppliers of AC relays and contactors (electro-mechanical coils please not SSRs) - I have a personal home improvement project in hand and I cannot afford to wait the 2 weeks to receive foreign imports from Amazon or AliExpress.

Any particular reason for avoiding SSRs? Just got a few for heating purposes.

duwdu:

Thanks and I agree with you.

If I would split hairs, I'd say additional harvest from earlier wake-ups and later retirements afforded by a high voltage may just add up on those 'stubborn' days when the Sun takes forever to effectively "come on stream," leading to prolonged wee hours, and during unusually long and severe overcast periods? But again, that's probably just me.

........
P34c3
.....
...

For the first few months, I ran a PV array of about 70V which had much higher current in the line but closer to CC optimization curves. The next two years, I optimised my system by having a PV string of 100V for a charge voltage of 57.2V. While having higher VoC, this system harvested better (despite less promising optimization curve yields).
The current arrangement has 4 panels in a row for a VoC of about 140V. Wakes up earlier and sleeps later (harvest not significant). What is significant however are the harvests during overcast weather and days when panels are dust coated. I get up to 15% increment in harvest. While it might not seem like much, it makes all the difference between waking up to 88% rather than 82%. Or on deep discharge days (82% for me), ending the day on float or absorb at 99%. Over the months and years, that's a lot.

Saipro:
The DC calibration on my 3kW 48V MustPower inverter has finally gone haywire. Showing 63.2V at a factual 57.0V absorb. It forces it to power down with an error 9. Over the years, it's been swinging between correct calibration to it's current absurd one.

I can lower absorb to 56.6V to make it usable but I've cracked out the spare Victron until I'm sure the MustPower won't burn down the house.

Any help?

It's rectified itself

The DC calibration on my 3kW 48V MustPower inverter has finally gone haywire. Showing 63.2V at a factual 57.0V absorb. It forces it to power down with an error 9. Over the years, it's been swinging between correct calibration to it's current absurd one.

I can lower absorb to 56.6V to make it usable but I've cracked out the spare Victron until I'm sure the MustPower won't burn down the house.

Any help?

kiekie1:
Pretty dull weather today! Seeing less than 55-63a as usual. Ran heavy load overnight , doubt if Batteries wld float today ....

1.2kW instantaneous and you're complaining? My 3kW array hardly fares better understand the harmattan haze here; same array which generates 2.5kW during the monsoons

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Here it is Sir @ attached pic. That is the 1hp in my bedroom.

1hp costs 130k & 1.5hp costs 135k last I checked

Please be sure to buy from an LG Fouani store and not a random 3rd party vendor - I hear people market some older generation LG ACs as inverter ACs when they are not - they don't behave or save energy like the ones people here have variously described do.

Many thanks

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You can vary the power consumption by switching to 'Gen Mode' when on backup power and normal or jet mode when on Mains.

Two benefits of the variable DC compressor in the AC is that it will ramp up gradually, say from about 300w up to the 1kw to 1.3kw the 1/1.5hp AC will ultimately draw - this way you don't get that surge load draw that makes the lights dim slightly as the power source (inverter or Gen) bucks under the load.

After a few hours and once the room has cooled, the compressor will start ramping down again - Using Gen mode, I frequently wake up to my bedroom AC drawing only between 300 to 400w and it would have started dropping from the initial 900w after less than 2 hours of operation this vs my older 1hp standard LG AC that draws a constant ~1kw even if I run it 12 hours +

Without invoking Gen mode, you really only get the benefit of slow ramp up and no surge load draw - in Gen mode you get the added benefit of the AC calibrating the power draw to the minimum required to maintain the target cooling levels and it gets better the longer the AC runs.

The Yoruba say, "tí a bá dá aṣọ fun ọ̀lẹ, à á tún paá l'áró". Kindly recommend a model or two from the LG brand.

I'm having problems laying hands on manuals for LG inverter ACs (I need to know what the power consumption for a 1.5HP split unit).

What's more, I don't understand the dual-inverter technology rant. They seem like regular split unit ACs with direct DC driven compressors. Or could I be mistaken?

I have a friend planning on installing some units. What I want is something I can vary the energy consumption depending on whether he's using grid power or backup power.

mank1234:


Morningstar suresine is a 12V inverter. Please share the Victron's model. I'm interested in this as well. Thanks

Yes, and they've refused to replicate the feat (much less make higher capacity versions) over the years despite the huge fan-base requesting for it. Makes me think it's a difficult feat indeed, seeing few have attempted even cloning it. Victron and Magnum come pretty close and have higher capacities with incredibly low self-consumption. I have 2 Victron inverters in use now and I have no regrets. (There's a smaller new-still-in-the-box and another used a few months now kept in the store).

Everything they make is great and open-ended. Too bad the CC couldn't trump my Midnite Classic+WizBang Jr. combo thus my setup is incomplete. Maybe someday in the future when I reconsider ESS (as recommended by Pranil) ....

Say, where is Pranil these days?

mank1234:


Morningstar suresine is a 12V inverter. Please share the Victron's model. I'm interested in this as well. Thanks

It's a Victron Phoenix 48V/375VA (search for Victron Phoenix 48/375). The small ones are from 250VA to 1200VA. With efficiency nearly the same across board, I use the smaller one for preventing overloading of the system at night. There's a bigger one which occasionally comes on when my PowerStar doesn't quite cut it (low sunshine yet moderate power requirements).

JUO:
my Fangpusun 4000va/48v is 15w on 300w load. on 1000w load is 18w, I call it wonder inverter. Review still loading. Price is 450k if interested contact me

Performs almost exactly as the Victron equivalent, I see.

duwdu:


Which inverter is this, please, Saipro?

........
P34c3
.....
...

It's a Victron.
MorningStar has a SureSine which is similar in performance (almost unbeatable).

I got a spare which I used for about 3 months before retiring it.

mcTrinity:


well, inverter inefficiency and/or battery ineffectiveness has been pointed out.

however, my small little personal observation is just the design. 3000W PV array on just 200Ah Battery Bank
that's about 62A (3000W/48V) hitting the battery during bulk charging. unless you're running freezers and ACs during the day.... which is even unlikely since it's just one bank.

I actually have a similar PV:battery bank ratio. Yes, I run two deep freezers and a fridge on mine during the day, asides other stuff like washing machines. The CC should handle the max current deliverable with ease. Mine is a Midnite coupled with a WizBang Jr.
For fear of overhyping the combo, you can limit charge current and determine end-amps (charging no longer terminated by time lapse).

Night-time loads peak around 200W and average about 150W (some LED lights of 3W - 5W, a 47" LED LG TV around 35W, an occasional 32" TV during football season/holidays and 2 ceiling fans of 25W). At bedtime, TVs and most lights go off, an extra fan or two might come on so loads stay roughly the same. Security lights are automated DC and powered by a different bank/PV array. Night-time inverter is 48V 375VA and has a self-consumption of 9W.
The key is in minimizing consumption. Currently eyeing JUO's DC fans for an even more efficient system.

Anyway, no well-meaning SCC should kill batteries simply because you're overcompensated on PV array size.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Lol My Oga. The sages say necessity is the mother of invention

You got a much larger contactor than I use - 80A 2NO 2NC to my own 40A so it makes sense that you paid more.

What I find though is you get better prices as you move closer to the source so my first ever set of LC1D25008, I got at 20k for two units including delivery to Lekki, same contactor I got now for 3k each as I cut out the middle man and moved closer to the mainland source - if you factor logistics they came at 4k each now.

Interestingly, I just took delivery of a batch of stuff from Ali... 25A Tomzn 2NO 2NC contactors and each cost under $6 - after my trials, they will now be my electrical switch of choice for large single load or multiple small load switching applications for my clients, the prices were so good I got a few random stuff as well - several large capacity AVS and diverse DC breakers - with a few hacks taught to me behind the scenes by a member of this forum, I got the entire package to land at my doorstep in a little over 1 week at a great price.

Your comment about duplicating dual AC source and output just sparked off a few ideas in my head, I will experiment and revert if I succeed - I may yet make my own Victron clone afterall.

I need to replicate your one-week-delivery stint. Kindly chat me up when free.
WhatsApp O8O 239O 23O5

Barezzi:
Evening guys,
Abeg is it really necessary to add a circuit breaker between a charge controller and the battery?
Charge controllers are designed to throttle the current at it's maximum rating. What's really
the function of that CB?

It is not necessary. It is mandatory! While I'd rather not have a breaker, a once-in-a-lifetime experience showed me how necessary they are. As always, the breaker is meant to protect the cabling from combustion. In essence, you are required to use cabling that won't jeopardize your installation i.e. large enough for max loading (with some headroom) yet not so large that your breaker would be sized to allow Nigeria to burn down before it trips, if ever.

If I try the double breaker thing, because of the enormous rating mismatch, my PV would never trip off under any kind of fault.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
No effects on battery backup time as far as I know.
I believe that using common neutrals increases the possibility of catastrophic damage in the event of a wiring fault - also most people do not obey the NEC code guidelines on how to properly size the neutral wire when doing common neutrals so if done incorrectly the possibility of overloaded neutral wires and wires melting and causing a fire increases.

Usually, no problem. Some devices in the house might have a "loop circuit" within. While not generally a problem, they give all kinds of surprises on occasion and can make troubleshooting for "earth leaks" a formidable task. Or so I've seen previously.