₦airaland Forum

panini:
Hello Solar Gurus in the forum,

I just got a small solar system of a 300W solar panel, a PWM charge controller, a 1000W inverter and a used 200Ah battery.

My laptop charger is 65W and the system lasts 3 hours at night. I would like to know if I plug a fan of same wattage (65W) as the laptop without plugging the laptop, would I have the same number of hours? My thought goes into the induction coil in the fan. I am being careful as I got a fairly used battery and I don't want to put too much strain on it.

Please help on this.

Usually, unless you're running your fan at top speed, it should be around 35W or thereabouts for average speeds. Laptops (depending on application) consume roughly the same except when charging when they can take up to max ratings (mine sucks around 80W when charging and is rated 120W being an octa-core).

I think there would be no harm in trying. Baby steps are often the way to learn.

PS: An energy meter would help. JUO and Kiekie1 stock them

My primary 12V charger died after about 10 years of meritorious service. Not keen on rewinding the transformer nor tampering with the FETs (done that once before and it wasn't quite the same).

Any recommendations for something cheap and reliable? Needn't exceed 20A (max 30A). Currently rigged a spare 250W panel with a spare CC to help people maintain batteries kept with me.

GeorgeD1:
hehehe! snake oil or crocodile oil, my battery life saver (bls) works great for me.
i wouldn't run my batteries one day without them.
don't know about others though

You're my brother indeed!

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Nice advert

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Please I am looking for a manual battery disconnect switch (not DC breaker) similar to the popular Blue Sea Systems but perhaps more robust.

The idea is to be able to flip/turn a lever and isolate an inverter or CC from the battery bank for maintenance without having to unscrew any cable from battery post or busbar

Someone is advicing me to use a large AC changeover (plenty copper) but I believe there has to be a more elegant way.

I don't want to use those red Blue Sea Systems disconnect switches because I have found them prone to failure

Large AC switches indeed work - up until the arcing eats away the plates and makes it increasingly difficult to get the contacts in position. all of them fail eventually (poor plastic longevity for Blue Sea and similar types; corrosion for the AC changeover switches). If used daily (or a few times a day), the AC ones might last you up to 2 years before giving out. Your fuse might be better placed after the changeover if each bank isn't separately fused.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
My Oga. I both understand and agree with you how it seems one is arguing for both sides. The issue of battery bank balancing is rather complicated and controversial and even if one got all of the elements of the battery maintenance equation right, a lead acid battery is designed to ultimately fail anyways [chemically induced decay].

Most battery balancers operate by bypassing the 'high' battery during charging and some others bleed power away from the 'high' battery. The HA02 is unique in that it has four isolated power units inside allowing you to actually move current from high battery to low battery without shorting out the series connections.

Anecdotally, I find the HA02 more effective at keeping the batteries within 0.1v of each other during the discharge phase, while charging, the voltage difference could rise as much as 0.3v especially during absorb. Sadly I only have regular access to a few battery banks other than my own to monitor long term behaviour so I have not yet developed my hunch into a proper scientific theory.

The HA02 will work best if attached to new batteries in good condition, where one or more batteries are already failing, the HA02 will improve the situation somewhat and give perhaps one or more hours of runtime but most likely not save the ailing battery.

One flaw I am certain the HA02 could improve on is the 'charge algorithm' - in as much as it can move power from stronger to weaker battery, it stops the process too early once the battery voltage begins to converge - the weaker battery never actually gets into the same state of charge as the stronger battery - they just come closer to each other in state of charge perhaps within 90% of each other - so close yet so far as Victron's research tells us a 2% variation in battery capacity is sufficient to bring down the entire bank over time.

If the HA02 could perform bulk > absorb > float for each battery, then that would be a lovely thing indeed.

Very well said. If it could charge to satisfaction, I believe discharge really wouldn't be an issue (the batteries would even out over time). The search for a better mousetrap continues!

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I can confirm that the HA02 battery balancer works very well. Battery balancing has become a key part of using a large battery bank sustainably and even most Lithium BMS have some sort of battery balancing mechanism in their core design.

The common issue I see with all the people I have heard complain about the HA02 seeming to unbalance their bank is that they bought off AliExpress and/or from an unproven source . I have only ever used the HA02s from an Amazon seller called ZHC Solar - after many transactions, we took our business offline and so far so good he has never dissappointed. He was even able to point me back to TaicoPower his actual source - when I showed him AliExpress prices to beat down his quote he would shake his head and insist that it was impossible to sell the product at that price and make a profit if sourced from the original manufacturer.

I don't like the HA01 but the HA02 is designed very differently and it works well to maintain balance if used on a set of good batteries from the beginning.

I have had some units in use nearly two years now and all the banks are nearly in perfect sync. 0.1v difference between batteries like an installer here once visited me and showcased my setup

Right, on the money. The HA02 is a different equipment not only in design buy in function. Annoying hum though (I wonder why I can hear it at my age). While at the risk of seeming to speak from both sides of my mouth, let me clarify.

Like most other good BMS, the HA02 does well for the charging phase. Not sure how beneficial robbing Peter to pay Paul might be (the discharging phase) but lithium BMS work differently.

It's that discharge part that's got me being wary.

Oshomo12:
My brother, this country na so so gain gain, even if it's going to destroy my neighbors, I don't care! Just for me and my family to be okay, another's can die. All we care about is money, which ever way u make it, not our business(sadly our religions support that now). I discovered recently that the common 2.5mm2 single core wire they sell now is not upto 1.35mm2. How? I want to get a 6mm2 wire, my customer told me to go for 4mm2 one particular product; he says it's better than that 6mm2 I asked for. I was confused and I bought the 4mm2. His reason was that, in meters, the one he recommended is better, but I don't believe that. I bought a little piece of the other one. Got home, brought out my micro meter screw gauge and measured the wire diameter to be sure. I discovered that the 4mm2 diameter correspond to the actual 4mm2, while the 6mm2 diameter correspond to around 3.5mm2.
So, must of this guys selling this stuff know nothing about what they re selling. And the people that do know are in one stupid office chasing after papers(I am not excluded from this). Mixing of batteries of different maker: No No No No.... That little internal resistance difference will sink a whole ship! It's just physics my brother.

Yup, I had a sample of some 4mm² I bought some 10 or so years back which is about the same diameter as the currently sold 10mm² copper cable. Very saddening.

DMerciful:
Watchout for the impact of those equalizers or balancers...I have a strong conviction that they cause more harm than good.

I have my suspicions too. Seems they're great while charging but not the best while discharging i.e. they keep some batteries from overcharging at the expense of others.

S007:
I hope this person can see. U better wake up from ur sleep, carry your locks and get out of our thread.

Spambot?

EricDManske:
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NiyiOmoIyunade:
Most of the good options (value & premium inverters and CCs) are within the 12v to 48v range.

Given that your batteries are 12v units you will find best battery balance at 12v but your maximum efficiency at 48v.

Borrowing from how 12v batteries in parallel stay better in sync with each other, one may contrive a similar arrangement with multiple parallel bank 24v or 48v battery setups by creating additional parallel links between each position in each bank. I will post a diagram in a bit.

This solution is not a cure all though, it solves a part of the problem but still leaves something unsolved. It has worked well for me so far vs. doing the conventional approach though.

Often true but ... I have on occasion seen one bad cell in a single battery promptly spawn bad cells in parallel batteries. Case in question had a bank of 4 batteries in parallel. Things were good for a long while so I went to sleep. I didn't notice until 2 of them had irrecoverably bad cells. I went on to separate into 2 banks of 12v x 2 in dual parallel config. I believe I made a post about it on this forum.

From that experience, it became pretty apparent that 12V batteries are cool but they're just 2V x 6 batteries hard-wired together in a single string The moment you run them in parallel, you experience the same issues as 2V x6/4v x 3/6V x 2 batteries in parallel without the benefit of isolating the bad cell without removing the entire battery. If you believe in God, you might need to pray your bank doesn't develop rogue cells.

olaade21:
Beautiful. I like your explanation. What do you propose as the best home solution. 24v/48v, Series/Parallel for a 12v 200Ah battery setup.

If you're starting fresh, 48V is really good. It's the lowest current option for the typical home system. High current is the bane of electricity transmission because cable resistance is fairly constant. That leaves you with voltage to mess around with thus lowering your current. In addition, 48V will always require fewer strings if you use the same batteries (as opposed to 12v and 24V).

Think about your needs. If a 48V system will work for you (including consideration for DC devices or not), please go ahead with it.

olaade21:
You have 16 units of 12 volt 200 AH batteries. Simple Math. 16 x 12 volts x 200 AH = 38,400 watt hours period. You can arrange them as:

12 Volts: putting all 16 batteries in parallel strings which gives you 12 volts @ 3200 AH or 12 volts x 3200 AH = 38.400 Watt Hours
24 Volts: 2 in series and 8 parallel Strings which gives you 24 volts @ 1600 AH or 24 volts x 1600 AH = 38,400 Watt Hours
48 Volts: 4 in series and 4 parallel strings which gives you 48 volts @ 800 AH or 48 volts x 800 AH = 38,400 Watt Hours
96 Volts: 8 in series and 2 parallel strings which gives you 96 volts @ 400 AH or 96 Volts x 400 AH = 38,400 Watt Hours
192 Volts: All 16 in series which gives you 192 volts @ 200 AH or 196 volts x 200 AH = 38.400 Watt Hours.

See anything in common?

Series Voltage Adds
Parallel Current Adds
Power always adds. Every battery is 12 volts x 200 AH = 2400 watt hours. You have 16 of them or 16 x 2400 watt hours = 38,400 watt hours

Here is the bad news. The only good configuration is 196 volts. You really screwed up using parallel batteries. In about a year or less you will learn this lesson the good ole fashion way loosing lots of money when you have to replace the batteries. Don't make that mistake twice.

Saw this on an online forum and throwing it up to the Ogas in the house. Which do you believe is the best setup.

I'm not an oga but I'll respond.
Firstly, I presume you meant 192V for the number in bold font.
Secondly, yes, a single string configuration is usually the most desirable but at times not cost-effective. Then the safety issues are more daunting in a high voltage DC setup. Arcing is very real and does nasty damage. Trust me on it.

For people whom run DC devices, 12V devices are the most abundant followed by 24V devices. 48VDC devices are not only scarcer but inordinately expensive as well. A lot of good gadgets simply don't come in 48V offerings. Now imagine seeking higher DC voltage gadgets.

Case scenario: consider having a 24V inverter with 6V 415AH x 4. You're starting fresh but starting somewhat big for a small home system, based on projected loads. Single string, beautiful performance. Life is looking good. Then, as solar enthusiasts are wont to do, you get restless - you want more juice. Upon the death (or switch) of your batteries, you want to double the bank capacity. The logical choice is a single string of 6v 415AH x 8 batteries and an inverter running 48VDC. An inverter change shouldn't be too much overhead to bear right? What if there are other peripherals running on 24V (pressing irons, floodlights, DC water pump, two DC-to-DC 24V-to-12V buck converters, and a few other DC devices? The single string option doesn't look so appealing now, does it? This is a real life scenario and that was one of my houses while I was living off-base. I eventually went 48VDC for forward compatibility with other devices in other locations but had to junk a lot of gadgets (very cost ineffective thus defeating the cost but not comfort effectiveness of solar). That's asides the fact that solar isn't really cost-effective in the first place. And before anyone suggests 48V-to-24V buck converters, I used them and they all failed, mostly under a year. They really hate switching devices.

No, he didn't screw up badly. While a 2-string bank is the only really reliable parallel bank out there, with good practices, you can comfortably run up to four parallel strings with minimal worry. Batteries are batteries and can go belly up even with good connection design. And beyond certain ampacities, it's all but impossible to maintain a single string. Such is the nature of lead-acid batteries.

bigrovar:
Maybe and maybe not. Again the idea is to have an open place where people can have real time interaction. I will leave it open if anyone wants to join and also extend it to my social media circle. ads and experience here is becoming unbearable and as seen most members resort to read only mode. I hope it changes sha.

Happened before. Not once. Will happen in the future. Do not lose sleep over it.
Minimising your concerns would require thread by-laws (with penalties for violations, including conduct). And an enforcer (forum super-mods seem ideal for the task).

earthrealm:
lemme get u .
you mean, you can run 1 ac+600w load 24hrs on a bad day?.
what if you have 3 or 4 consecutive bad days?.

the issue about oversizing is that, if care is not taken, after a while it doesnt make much economic sense.
i woud rather run my azy 8.5kva petrol gen the few times my batt dip to 48v, than pour in more funds in over sizing the array.
cos after oversizing an array, you would stil need to increase your batt bank, on super bad days, i get abt 1kwh instead of the 5 to 7kwh i usualy get from my 1500w pane array

Yup, you're right. Sizing beyond 1.5x the required PV array is rarely economically profitable and at that point is a matter of affordability and convenience. Unless you live in a very remote area (pretty unlikely in Nigeria as most people with means won't go living up in the mountains nor inaccessible swamps).

The true design of off-grid solar setups isn't to be totally independent of other power sources and most true off-grid installations have either/both of a wind, micro-HEP or gen-set/dynamo to either augment the solar or run on poor days. That is the economically viable way to go. In addition, it provides for a level of redundancy.

Oshomo12:
I don't want to belief the panels are 100w @ 24v, it should be 100w @ 12v with a current of ~ 5.7A. That should be the reason for 2*2 config. So at that, he should see around 11.4A (all things been equal, which can never be!). From the pics, I will multiply that figure(11.4) by an efficiency of 60%, ie 11.4*0.6=6.84A. So the current he is seeing is about right.

Note: Those batteries are going to die very fast! Kindly do the needful(buy a 'cheap' 15a 100v mppt Fangpsun CC and connect the 4 panels in series; with that wire gauge am seeing there).

You're right. I missed the 100W and somehow read 150W (possibly because I worked with 150W 24V panels last week?) My apologies for not being more thorough. He really shouldn't get less than 8.5A for his money's worth, based on the new light you've shed. He needs more of those panels though ... lots more.

And yes, those batteries might have begun a rapid descent into sulphation already.

earthrealm:
Yeah..thats also what i saw during my research...not a big issue if tou ask me..or even batt life threatening..
And the mess or boiling over would only occur if tou topped up to the maximum n beyond.

Saipro was making it seem like he had committed a big blynder

Okay, perhaps I'm given to sensational writing. Na my way.

However, temperatures of cells have a large impact on the amount of current absorbed, even small fluctuations. What would you give to bet that the water being added is several degrees below the temperature of the batteries in this part of the world?

I had questioned the rational behind topping before charging but time after time, those batteries/cells paradoxically do not rise as fast neither do they fall as fast in voltage as the others. And I would like to believe it's got little or nothing to do with stratification of the electrolyte. I had done this with my Trojans (both sets) and with my current US Battery set. Tried it with the batteries of family members. Results are similar each time (but nothing as wild as this last one). Merely thought I'd publish it for those whom might not know and whom don't routinely check their batteries.

Anyway, the bottom line is, best and safe practices are just that - best and safe.

PS: Others could try it out and give the house feedback on their findings.

There's a wrong way to do the right thing.

A few days ago early in the morning, I topped up my 12V FLA batteries before charging. First wrong thing (top up after charging unless cells are exposed). I was in a rush and miscalculated thus topping each cell with 300mLs instead of 200mLs. I ran out of distilled water on the 3rd battery. I had a half battery and another unfilled battery to go. No problem, I would distil water the next day to make up. Didn't happen as I got really busy. Minimally unbalanced rack. Easy fix.

A day more and I got back to it. Despite knowing the rote, I did the second faux pas. I topped up the other cells (again, before charging) and proceeded to do a straight away equalisation charge (without first completing absorb). Impatience is definitely not a virtue. From batteries 0.01V in variation, I arrived at a bank with 0.13V variation. The beginning of the end. Enter panic mode.

Waited one agonising day in order not to boil the batteries to death. At dawn, whipped out my standalone 12V charger, DC clamp meter and babysat the bank on Saturday. Did another equalisation after completing absorb, moving the standalone charger to hasten the lowest (last topped up battery) catching up with the others. Literally watched it go to float.
Bank temperature 34.2^oC
Battery voltages
- 13.07V
- 13.07V
- 13.06V
- 13.07V

Hourly review for the rest of the day. Checked this afternoon and everything is as measured the previous day.

Cardiac arrest averted. All is well. Time for some isi-ewu and Maltina.

DMerciful:
The reading on the CC is quite strange as panel current is higher than battery current, unless the pictures were not taken at the same time. My recommendation will be to get an mppt cc and a professional installer. See my signature for whatsapp contact

His system is small enough for the money spent on a new CC to be better utilised by a larger PV array. Or so me thinks (below 1kWp, MPPT barely outperforms PWM, assuming the typical 24VDC nominal, short cable runs, etc).

roolnaado:
Hi, I'm a newbie, and I don't know these ratings. I am doubting the installer that's why I want ask for more info here. It's a PWM controller. I will tell him to do a parallel configuration.

Thanks

Understood. If the panels are accessible, those info should be pasted on the back. Your installer cum supplier should otherwise have those figures.

efuro:
I agree with you to the extent that the 100w pv are truly 24v as his 24v-30a pwm will receive a max amps up to 20a on a good day where no other charging source exist as pointed out by dmerciful.

The post came after mine. I had no way of telling, at least not from the info previously supplied.

roolnaado:
OK, I will check it in the afternoon and post a snapshot. Thanks

He means your PV panels (IsC, ImP, VoC and VmP). What are the ratings. I however suspect you have PWM controller with your PV panels needlessly arranged in a 2x2 configuration instead of all in parallel. If that were the case, you could double your incoming current by merely breaking the current config and placing them all in parallel.

makavele:
This is very false. Electricity be it, AC or DC above a certain voltage will kill you. While it is the current that kills and not voltage, but after a certain voltage there is enough propensity to deliver the current ....

You're right but not entirely so. I was going to point out other things related to electrocution but they're way off-topic. Those who know me in real life would tell you I'm pretty well positioned to give advice on this but would demur at this point.
There is however a very important characteristic of the waveforms which make one of them more likely to kill, asides the current delivered or the voltage at which it is driven. And you'd mentioned it already.

It would be too much effort to quote all deserving posts (literally every post made) on this 180VDC VoC thingy.

I'm not really contributing. Just wanna point out a few things.

- 325W panels having a VoC of 30V are rather uncommon. Be sure you're not quoting the ImP.
- Victron and Midnite make 250V MPPT charge controllers. MorningStar has one doing 600V. Most others do 150V or less.180V CC are not so common. Think forward to future maintenance and support if you're using a product uncommon neither here nor elsewhere.
- off-grid hybrid inverters are likewise either 150V and below or much higher (typically 320V and above). Smaller ones exist with your VoC.
- in anything you do, safety comes before economic viability and ease of use. Unless tangled in cables or otherwise firmly grasping a live wire/device, 180VAC is unlikely to kill an adult. 180VDC almost certainly will. Have you considered the cost of the necessary accessories for grounding and fault protection?

Unless your panels are really far from your CC, there really isn't a justifiable reason (asides personal desire) to exceed 150VDC. That's the sweet spot for transmission losses and safety of cable handling.

Finally, a chosen date for adverts would be a swell idea (the post someone made about it seems to have disappeared). A Friday, as suggested, great. Other days could be chosen. Once agreed, we stick to them. Organised threads at times have rules and by-laws, supplementary to those of the forum.

The super-moderators can help enforce them.

DUNKA:
Niyi I just have to comment because Frankie supplied at least 80% of my solar setup., even when i had issues with his pricing in the past but my last transaction was a nasty one when he ended up supplying me a different battery from what we agreed on Whatsapp without informing me only for him to try and insult my intelligence that what he sent was a better product

Frankie I have told you this before only integrity will make you go far when you start using underhand dealings small by small you will be the greatest loser.

You are now claiming to be a the number 1 online solar dealer well let me tell you pride goes before a big fall if you continue with what you did to me we shall hear of your fall.

Go to the the car section there was one Inspired arrogant fool that was claiming to be the the number 1 online car dealer go and read up how he ended up

A word is enough for the wise if you like take my advise or not I am not a dealer nor a a competitor but change your price gouging, underhand dealings and so not assume you know note than your customer with want he wants

I feel your pain but let's move past this point, especially if it won't help with the purpose of the thread.
Everyone who contacts a marketer on this thread has the option of doing due diligence before parting with cash. Never has it been said I was forced to pay by kiekie1. That's the beauty of personal choice and opinion.
He and I are on quite cordial terms. We've had our rough times too. When I'm not satisfied, I don't hesitate to say so. Again, he knows I don't always buy stuff from him. He couldn't possibly stock every device out there.

I can only get cross with him when I think he's gone bad on a deal. And I do everything to resolve things before even considering involving a third party.

That's the world of business.

dapsyra:
The quoted price of US$999 is too high for that capacity and chemistry. If you are a DIY person, I suggest you CALB LifePo4 batteries instead.

For the capacity of 1200WH (24V 50AH) you require 8units of CALB 3.2v 50AH batteries. You can easily get a 50AH CALB LiFePo4 battery at US$60 each or less. The CALB batteries are also rated at 3000-5000 cycles at 80% DOD.

Good man!

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Let me try and defuse the tension a bit

Every time I read from this MrsDaniel account, I smile because I can't help but feel it is KieKie himself writing... a pseudonym/pseudoaccount as it were or at the very least the hand behind the hand. The grammar and choice of words and pattern of expression are pretty similar, nearly verbatim IMAO...

Possibly his wife's account?
No harm in defending one's stance. I await his rejoinder. Until then, let's continue on-topic.

earthrealm:
i guess you meant btw a servo stabilizer and the common [relay] stabilizer.

Both use relays but the numerous relays of the non-servo type is it's weakness. Servos usually limit their relays to one or two. Then the servo.

On a positive side, the relay type tends to fare better at lower voltages but suffers worse failures if all you do is run it at low voltages (the original intention for buying it). Relay types are easier and cheaper to repair, so long as the core isn't damaged. Usually a matter of fuses and relays. Servos work faster. They're less prone to spitting out absurd voltages (like 290VAC).

Cascading doesn't really help with that either (a pre-staged transformer could help though not advisable as the input power could jump someday).

NoMoreTrolling:
We are about to take the plunge by buying the BattleBorn 24v 50ah LifePo4 batteries direct from the U.S.A, wish me luck guys
They are claiming 3000-5000 cycles at 80% DOD and 100A max discharge current, sounds too good to be true, but I guess we'll see.
Will update the house

Kudos! Awaiting your time-to-time feedback over the years to come.

I somehow missed two posts on the water topic and feel like writing something. Namzy's water source deserves commercial harvesting.

earthrealm:
ok, borehole it may be possible , no one knows the formation through which the water is coming from, 2ndly some folks also install anion filters in their borehole setup

Just noticed your post. You're very right, anion/cation filters/exchangers are wonderful devices.
Ground water invariably contains lots of dissolved minerals and the "sparkling" ones are not exempt. I take it Namzy has both filtration and ion exchange systems installed else, I'm still baffled.

Namzy:
Lol allowed the ac run for 1 hr before retesting and got 6. Tap water is from borehole and I'm suprised at the result too. I might start selling them lol

Borehole water gets as high as 63 ppm in tds for "clean" water (hardly any different from a well maintained well). Municipal water is so variable in tds, I can't even quote a figure but it depends a lot on the distance to the water plant (the 12 I quoted earlier was from the taps in some neighbouring buildings of a water works somewhere in Ibadan). The 18 - 38 I quoted are for home and factory boreholes (similar values, if only a bit lower than wells which go as high as 51). Some are brownish/cloudy (presumably the aquifer wasn't reached) so I don't even test. Your borehole water remains extraordinary to the point of me not believing there isn't a microfilter or exchanger inline somewhere.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Hmmmmm! I have personally never done this TDS test but the very nature of how AC condensate water is generated makes me doubt the possibility.

I suspect the container used to capture the water or the AC drain pipe has dirt or sediments that are corrupting the results - if you are able, you should let the AC run well for like an hour to clean out the pipe before you capture water for the test.

I would really be happy to know as I have a lot of people (including me) who use AC condensate water for batteries, car radiator and ironing (steam).

Actually, 8 parts per million of dissolved salts/solids is a wonderfully good figure and better than what most battery manufacturers recommend. I have run other tests to ascertain that 6 - 8ppm of tds is the factual value for A/C condensate. Distilled water fares better by measuring 2 - 4ppm. Well-processed deionised water measures roughly the same (I suspect the copper tubing is the source of the extra tds for condensate as I've measured from various sources using various glass and plastic receptacles).

The part which baffles me is his tap water rivaling distilled water in purity. The problem with Eva water is the high potassium and bicarbonate content. Not very harmful to batteries though. It's pretty unusual to see tap water lower than 12ppm of tds and 18 - 38 is pretty common in these parts (making it suitable source water for further processing). A visit to Namzy's house to "taste" of his tap water is in order.

pranil:
I recently came across a very nice document by ABB or USE of ELCB/RCCB and applications.

It is written in simple laymen terms with additional technical information for those interested.

Worth having a look as the safety in electrical installation especially Residential should be the first priority

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fJ01G53B2PqPh1pcOxPIc4lAeCY_7gMJ/view?usp=sharing

Thanks. You're the man! You're the boss-man!

However, the initial 39 pages of the document appear as blank sheets (same for the final 20 sheets) despite downloading several times. Any way to remedy this?