Strongbest's Posts
Nairaland Forum › Strongbest's Profile › Strongbest's Posts
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 (of 157 pages)
Babacele:Lols.....Amen Sir. Thanks. |
Juliana7:Alright ma,I shall do that later. Thanks. |
jendor123:Yes Sir, lesson has commenced already, we shall continue Sire. Thanks. |
stadora:Sir/Ma, one of our most senior Students (Juliana) just answered your question. Lols. Please, let's stick to the rules at least as a beginner. Later you can try experimenting on your own. But seriously, somethings shouldn't be too much or over used; else, you get a different (negative) result. Thanks. |
grownaira:1. Caustic Soda---- 1 kg (180 naira) 2. Soda Ash--------1 kg (90 naira) 3. Sodium Sulphate........1kg (200 naira). Not very sure right now but it's around that price if not even cheaper. Haven't bought in a long while being using the one I have since last year. 1 kg can go a long way except, if you are using it in other production. 4. Fragrance........depends on the quantity you want. You can get as low 100-150 naira. 5. Oil based colourant (oil soluble colour)..................50 naira per sachet. 6. PKO ...................1 litre (200 naira). I know you didn't ask but some else might want to know later. Smile Please note that, the price given above is the highest you can get the chemicals anywhere. If the price is higher by more than 10-20 naira then, run away. Thanks. |
adrianehis:My pleasure Sir/ma, I'm glad you are here with us. Where to get the chemicals depends on your location. If you are in Lagos, kindly go to Ojota chemical market. There you'll get everything and very cheap. However, if you stay outside Lagos or in Lagos but not too close to Ojota, you can always make enquiries from people around to know where to get your chemicals. The fact is that, there are chemical markets all around the States of Nigeria but many are yet to be aware of that. Just a little finding and you'll locate one. Thanks. |
www.nairaland.com/1798724/ Just click on the link above. |
Crazy! I actually forgot I have a thread like this here. Lolsss. Not too late if you are still not part of us, come and join the big family thread and learn new things free. Big smile. |
Heyllo ma'am @ Juliana, sorry I skipped the last part of your questions. Well, deionised water and distilled water are not really the same.....let's save the stories for another day. The prescribed method (boiling your water) is just a way of trying to improvise where the required materials are not available for use, it will serve but distilled/deionised water will definitely serve better where required. For instance, in your air freshener that method (improvised method) will work better instead of just using ordinary water. The boiling helps remove some impurities from the water and helps your end product to smell better......... Thanks. |
nobledeals:My pleasure ma'am. Eya, it can really be annoying to see such in one's production. All the same, I'm glad you did your best, I'm very optimistic the next one will be great. Bravo ma. Thanks. |
suitangi:Alright ma. 1/10 means divide the unit by 10 then use just one part of it. Let's assume you are using a tin milk cup, that tin milk cup represents the (a) unit. Therefore, one tin milk cup of sodium sulphate divided into 10 part (1/10) then using just one part. Uhmmm, if we say 1/2 it means dividing the stuff into two but using one part. Hope it's clear ma. Please, feel free to ask questions where not clear. Thanks. |
Juliana7:Heyllo ma'am, there's a specific fragrance and colourant for soap. E.g you use water based colourant in liquid soap while in bar soap an oil based(oil soluble) colourant is used. We must understand this little things before trying to make use of them to avoid error. Just tell them at the chemical store that you want a fragrance for bar soap. They should kind enough to give you the right one. There's just a very little difference between the fragrances, don't know how to explain the difference here for us to understand but that of bar soap looks kind of more oily in nature. Thanks. |
nobledeals:Ma'am, let's see. Dissolve like two spoonfuls of caustic soda into 1/2 cup of water then pour it into the mixture immediately and stir vigorously. Try and let's see how it goes. Once again, sorry about the error. Thanks. |
nobledeals:Oooops! So sorry about the error you made ma. Ma'am, there's a specification for the quantity of water to be used in dissolving the nitrosol there in page 0. Kindly check again. Thanks. |
Strongbest: |
Strongbest: |
I have an order from a family this weekend, I shall be sharing pictures from the production with us here, though bathing soap not laundry bar soap. Will be using some nice mould. Guess that will help us to gain more insight on how to go about our own. Stay tuned. Thanks. |
Juliana7:Heyllo ma'am, sodium sulphate in the formula helps to increase the hardness of our soap and to increase the forming property or ability of the soap. If you look at sulphate, being an inorganic salt adds lots value and has lots of functions in cosmetics generally......I may not be able to explain in details how it does that here but it end value is what I just said above. Well, I have never bought honey from a chemical store before and I don't think they sell such either but you know anything is possible. What I meant above is, skin care product that doesn't stay on the skin. Not implying it can be gotten from the chemical store ma'am. Smile. Thanks. |
Now, we can advance a little. The next thing is how to add fragrance and colourant to our bar of soap in order to have a more colourful product. If you look at what we have above the product is kind of white in nature. Normally, a soap produced using PKO always yield a white colour bar of soap when it's ready. Stay tuned for more. Thanks. |
In soap production, every soap maker should be acquainted with the following terms: -Curing -Trace - Gelling (though applicable more in bathing bar soaps) I think I have explained the terms here before. Most soap producers will tell you it's not possible to make bar soap without the use of hydrometer, trust me, the most important thing in soap making is accurate measuring which is what the hydrometer actually stands for. However, while the instrument may fail you at any time, knowing the accurate measurement of each chemical used your self can never fail you. You observe we have an extra 1 unit of oil in the production right. That 1 unit ensures a complete reaction (saponification) to take place thereby using up the entire caustic soda. Which means, at the end of the entire production when the soap cures, there'll be no caustic left in your bar soap. Thanks. |
The measurement used above yield just a bar of soap. Now, if you want more bars of soap, you'll use a bigger container as your measuring tool, e.g tin milk cup. Obeying the above rules, it there for means: 1 tin milk cup of caustic soda diluted with 3 tin milk cups of water. 1 tin milk cup of soda ash diluted (dissolved) with 3 tin milk cups of water. 1/10 tin milk cup of sodium sulphate 7 tin milk cups of PKO (palm kernel oil) Remember a unit here is represented with tin milk cup while in our first experiment above the a red cap (cover) represents a unit. Hope we all got that. |
.......
|
Soaps out of the moulds: Being trying to upload more pictures but the network sucks. Guess I will just chill and do it when ever the network permits. Thanks.
|
Soap still in the moulds......trying to upload more. Thanks. |
This what you have after 2-3 hours
|
Using the red cover as our measuring tool: 1. Caustic soda......1 unit 2. Soda ash...........1 unit 3. P.K.O................7 units 4. Sodium Sulphate.....1/10 unit Direction - Dilute the caustic soda with 3 units of water -Dilute the soda ash with 3 units of water -Add the sodium sulphate into the dissolved caustic soda and stir PREPARATION: - Pour the PKO into an empty dry container - Add the dissolved caustic soda (solution of caustic soda and sodium sulphate) and stir - Add the dissolved soda ash and stir - keep stirring till trace is reached. -Now, pour out the pap like mixture into the mould and allow to stand for about 4-7 hours. Remove from mould and allow to cure for 2-4 weeks. Before you move on with the experiment, hold on for an explanation on some important point to note. Be right back. Thanks. |
Sorry I kept us waiting till now some days are not predictable. You think it's going to be a very free day but ends up being a busy one. Thanks. |
grownaira:That must be nice Sir. Just hope the honey you added wasn't too much though. I usually prefer the honey in soap or on any skin care that won't stay on skin for too long. Thanks. |
I will be back shortly to continue.... Let's stay tuned. Thanks. |
Spandy:My pleasure Sir. Thanks. |
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 (of 157 pages)
. Pls sir help out on this. Thanks
.