₦airaland Forum

Wizdeen:
Hey man, where you able to figure this out, I own the same exact model, and I also had an exhaust net leakage, fixing it improved my fuel performance, i would like to know what are the other services you did and how was their impact on your fuel economy?

yeah, i fixed the leak. Got a sensor, although the sensor failed after a month. i just got another one..

https://www.nairaland.com/7819823/should-fix-upstream-02-sensor#125414354

Please visit my thread.

This is from the infocar app that can be used to track fuel consumption too.

Yesterday evening..

This was from the first trip after fixing the exhaust.

Can I trust the data? it was a data recording using the car scanner app connected to my obd scanner.

Greetings,

I have conducted extensive research regarding this matter and am seeking insights from your expertise.

I own a 2003 Honda Accord Type S with an i4 engine. Despite the OBD readings indicating reasonable fuel consumption, I've noticed an apparent fuel consumption issue. I will provide attached photos subsequent to this post. Lately, I've been facing notably high fuel consumption despite my attempts to resolve the problem. I've already replaced the spark plugs and serviced all serviceable components.

The persistent error code that initially came with the car, which pertains to the O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit, continues to be the outcome of my scans.

Additional note: The car was initially purchased without a catalytic converter. I possess real-time data from three separate trips, encompassing fuel consumption and other related metrics.

When driving, the downstream O2 sensor exhibits a reading of 1.48v. Notably, the short-term and long-term fuel trims consistently display no readings. Both cooling fans are functioning directly. I've contemplated the acquisition of a functional upstream O2 sensor with the intention that it might alleviate fuel consumption, given that the upstream sensor is completely detached from its port.

I find myself in a state of confusion. I'm hesitant to make the purchase if it ultimately proves ineffective. Your insights on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

I will provide any data required from my data recording upon request.

modified: My panel beater said i had a leak at the front of the exhaust and it has been fixed.

mrteeconcept:
I'm very sure this issue happened around September, 2021 when Sterling Bank had a glitch. Many people used the advantage to collect money by opening a new account and transferring from the account to another bank account but the money won't be deducted from the newly opened Sterling Bank account, meaning, you can transfer as much money as you wish. Sterling Bank called those involved in the fraud then but people refused to return the money which eventually resulted to their BVN being watchlisted. This would restrict them from performing electronic transactions like POS, ATM, internet banking, USSD and so on. Nevertheless, you need to know that you can perform in-person transactions, meaning, you can have access to your money on the counter.

BVN watchlist removal will take 10 years or if Sterling Bank writes to CBN that the BVN was involved erroneously. One can't also travel out with BVN being watchlisted, visa won't be granted.

The best thing you can do is to write to CBN through a lawyer telling them you've refunded the money. There's high probability they won't respond to emails.

I hope this helps?

Thank u. I have since gotten my money from Access and sterling bank. although sterling has refused to delist my bvn, i have since come to reality with the fact that i cannot operate an account for 8+ years from now.

Gtbank and Standard chartered have refused to give me access to my money over the counter nor close my account. the cpd deperatment of CBN has also not been replying their emails any longer.

Hello Bro. So after several weeks of misfiring. I had to scan while driving and I finally saw the codes.

My friend who happens to be a mechanic serviced the nozzles. Then we tested. He also swapped the positions of the coil.

A particular coil no. 4 was always the first to trigger the misfire on its cylinder, then we swapped it to 3,and the same thing happened.

The engine misfired on cylinder 3.

So our conclusion is that particular coil is faulty.

I'm going to get another one today and change it to see how it goes...

Thank you for your time and attention

Viltron:
We are docile in this country. Can't we find this Emefiele guy?

nurey:
What you describe now feels like a throttle response issue. The technician would use the live data from the scanner to pin point the issue

Thanks, Boss, You are a champ! I will inform him...

nurey:
Your car works with Air, spark and fuel. Your random stuttering isn't understood sha. Is it loss of power or unstable breathing (rpm fluctuations).

Check your Mass air flow and the sensors. Check the intake air filter and the throttle body.

But I would have loved for you to fix the obd port first.

Hope the mechanic never touch ur injector?

Fixed the port, but no error code.

It kinda hesitates when I want to accelerate.

nurey:
You need a high-level scanner to pick up codes from transmission but your transmission is faulty but better to scan first before attempting trial and error

Thank you so much, bro. About the random Stuttering, what else can we check? I've changed all 4 plugs and one faulty plug, I have also changed the fuel pump, but the issue still persists.

nurey:
Is it that the transmission is jumping gears? Like moving from 2 to 4 evading 3, you may need to scan transmission too

No, it does not jump gears. When it wants to switch from either 2 to 3 or 3 to 4, it revs high to around 4rpm before it changes.

and I scanned, ecm/pcm control relay circuit and Oxygen sensor. Nothing more.

nurey:
For the 1st issue I would advise a scan first if possible that will help narrow down diagnosis.

For 2nd how high does it rev? Anything around 4 to 5k rpm b4 changing gear nah issues, then you have to start from small check ATF level, check ATF color and if possible drain ATF and refill with original honda DW1 atf

Yeah , the guy tampered with my obd2 port and I am not getting power. He is going to rectify that today so I can scan.

as for the trans. I got the car like that. I have drained and refilled with total fluidmatic and same issue persists. it revs to 4k rpm then it changes to gear 4, sometimes from 2 to 3..

nurey:
check the fuse box wiring, i have noticed loose wiring from my honda before which was making the connection of a fuse disengaged. If you change fuse and the problem persists then you have to check the fusebox itself and the fusebox wiring.

Thanks Boss, na only you reply. I got a good Rewire guy to fix the fuse box and the issue stopped.

The car is a conversion, that's why I'm getting these electrical issues.

I have 2 pending issues now.

First is, the car hesitates. I've changed spark plugs changed fuel pump twice..

I want to tell my mechanic to clean the throttle body and air intake.

Secondly, The Engine revs high when it wants to change gear. This action is spontaneous though.

What do you advise sir?

Last week, as I was on my way to the office in my 2006 Honda Accord Euro CL9, the car suddenly stalled while I was on the highway. Although there was a light on the dashboard, I attempted to restart it by shifting to neutral, but it wouldn't start. With the assistance of a colleague, we managed to push the car to the side of the road, but it kept cranking when I tried to start it again.

I contacted Kazeem, who checked the engine and determined that it was an electrical issue. He then contacted his colleague, who inspected the fuse boxes. Meanwhile, I attempted to use my ELM adapter to scan the car, but it only connected to the ELM and not the ECU. After the rewire guy examined it, he pointed out the green blinking key on the dashboard.

To make a long story short, we towed the car to their shop using my friend's car and returned to the office. The rewire charged me 8k to fix the issue, but I knew he ripped me off. I wasn't worried, but I didn't want the problem to recur because it was so embarrassing.

The next morning, I attempted to start the car, and the same problem arose. I opened the fuse box under the hood and reset some fuses, which resolved the issue, but I wasn't satisfied.

That evening, I conducted some research and opened the passenger-side fuse box. I removed the ACG fuse and saw the blinking key again. When I reinserted it, the issue vanished. This confirmed that it was a fuse problem.

This morning, as I was driving on the service lane, I heard an unusual relay-clicking sound emanating from the passenger-side fuse box, and my car stalled. After it happened twice, the green key light appeared again.

I removed all of the fuses and reconnected them randomly, and the issue stopped. However, when I hit a bump, it stalled, and the light appeared again. I had to gently tap the fuse box and secure it properly, after which it didn't occur again until I reached the office.

I believe I should replace the fuse box since this problem is extremely frustrating.

Additional Issues:
The engine Revs high when switching gears, Especially when switching to gear 3.

Please, Gurus in the house, Your suggestions and advice are needed. Thank you

cc nurey
cc gazzuz

Update guys.
I feel like I got the fake honda dw1 earlier this month when I changed my oil.

Now I am stuck between buying Total MVLV tomorrow or Go to an alleged Original Honda DW1 dealer recommended here by someone and drain and refill with 4 litres..

Here are the symptoms.

Sometimes my Car experiences heavy up and down shifting. You can hear that kick in the tranny.

Sometimes when I want to accelerate it struggles it's difficult to explain this. But then it picks when I floor down.

No D light blinking whatsoever.

Conner44:
Once your engine cuts out in motion, there will be a little vacuum left in the intake manifold to power the brake booster at least for 2 more times when you step on the brake pedals before it gets completely stiff. So you’d need to check your side and rear view mirrors first before attempting to ‘time’ the way you use the brake pedal and clear off the road.

As for the steering, yes you’d lose its power but it will still function as if you’re driving a 911 tipper leave the key in the ignition’s ON position exactly as it was when the engine tripped off so the steering doesn’t lock up as you turn to clear off the road.

;DTipper indeed, Thank you so much!! Mine was harder to steer than a Tipper.

Conner44:
When it happens just immediately switch to neutral and try to clear to the side of the road before the vehicle rolls to a complete stop.

I once had this same exact issue. I changed the entire fusebox and till today it’s been all good

Thanks. But since you cannot brake and your steering stiffens, say you're on 100km/hr on a busy road . What do you do?

Dozieson:
His name is malachi 0805 490 5465.

He does not charge much. A calm guy also.

Thank you brother. I will call am when I get to the office.

Unrelated: what does one do when driving an automatic vehicle and it turns off while on motion.

The brake and steering becomes stiff what does one do in this situation?

Dozieson:
I have one in Kubwa that help to resolve almost similar issue. My own only affected the instrument cluster light. He was able to trace a short circuit within the system

Yeah. Mine affects the cluster light, ac doesn't cool, and the power window stops working.

Please what are his charge and contact, so i can go see him.

Thanks.

skyoboy:
Just buy a new fuse box and have peace.

I'm not sure it's the fuse box. There's a short somewhere.

All the fuses and relay works.

If you check my previous thread. You'll see the car.

It's an Honda accord 2003 CL9.

Here's the problem. I actually need a very good rewire in Abuja here. All these road sides are nothing to write home about.

So, I was driving one time and the Cluster light turned off, I.e speedometer, fuel guage and everything on the dash doesn't work.

Whenever this happens the AC stops cooling, the passenger side and the door behind the passenger side's power window doesn't work.

Whenever this happens and I scan I get The code u0155 loss of communication with your Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module (IPC.

I checked all the fuses and relay they're all working.

The first time it happened the rewire guy did some stuff on the fusebox area and it started working. This has happened thrice. The third time been yesterday.

So I told him that I needed a permanent fix and I need to know what's causing the issue.

But I do not trust him. I feel there's a short somewhere causing this.

Please i need help or guidelines I can ask the next rewire to follow.

aeu1:
Depending on the city you are.
If you are in Abuja It will be very viable because you will see rides with sufficient distance/time per trip to earn you returns. eg 2k, 3k, 4k a drop kind of business.
In smaller towns - the truth is that you will be earning to refuel your ride. N600/drop and the likes. To squeeze out true profit under this climate is hard especially for your engine size.
What I am saying. Just try out and see. If it works out for you - fine. If not, report your experience as well to guide/inform others who may come up with this question in the future.
God bless you.

Thank you bro.

Well from my observation. I make just enough to fuel.

For example. I fuel 3k at 180/L. Make a 25km journey to and fro, like taking my gf to her an interview and bringing her back home.

Then I use the remaining fuel till it reaches reserve to make 5-6k. So I remove my fuel money which is 3k and the profit Is 2k. Not so much for driving around.

.... Sensor

Photos.

aieromon:
https://www.nairaland.com/7491695/where-get-honda-dw1-oil#119342726

Did you contact them?

Yeah I went there. I called yesterday they said 8k. When I got there today the guy said 9k. I checked another stall and he said it was 5k.

I was skeptical about it but I took his word.

I've drained and refilled with all 4 litres. When we turned the car on, the D was blinking and it wasn't accelerating well. So I scanned and got the p0962 code.

I googled it and told my mechanic to check the solenoid valve a sensor. He removed it and washed it with carburettor cleaner and fixed it back.

The issue was resolved. I took it for a test ride on the highway and everything seems fine. No hard switching, jerking, Whatsoever.

I got home now and checked the oil it wasn't pink. I guess it has been diluted with the remnant in the Trans. I just hope everything goes fine.

I'm really paranoid about about any transmission issue.

I need 4 litres and how much is it?

I saw this on jumia but I'm not sure of its authenticity and price..

DECOtech:
Interested in using it for bolt if its your car and you are willing to give it out on HP

Oh sorry. It's my personal car.

Angrygoat:
Acura tsx. Good 4plugs. But body parts can buy kilos of gold. Very expensive

Thanks.. But didn't answer the question o.

It's an Honda accord euro but I understand that it was sold as the above mentioned in some parts of the world.

DECOtech:
Yes it is. I am interested. please 08030938491

If you don't mind me asking, intrested in what?