Good day all, am a civil servant with a monthly income of about 60k and about to take delivery of either of American specification of 1999 Mercedes Benz c230 or a 2001 c240 when I give the word if which I prefer of the two or any other brand.
My questions are will either of this cars be difficult to maintain (ie servicing, part replacements etc.) in abuja with regards to my income?
What are the differences between that with a compressor and one without?
Which one (1999 c230 or 2001 c240) should be the preferred one for use in abuja?
Where can I locate a good mechanic and rewire technician for Benz in abuja?
If either of this cars are a no go what brand/year of car do I go for bearing in mind my income.
Please note that I can afford to buy either of them but the maintenance and other costs to be associated/incurred while running them are my worry. I need your suggestions as I need to get back to my dealer before the end of the month
Thank you.

stafmedia: Good day all, am a civil servant with a monthly income of about 60k and about to take delivery of either of American specification of 1999 Mercedes Benz c230 or a 2001 c240 when I give the word if which I prefer of the two or any other brand.
My questions are will either of this cars be difficult to maintain (ie servicing, part replacements etc.) in abuja with regards to my income?
What are the differences between that with a compressor and one without?
Which one (1999 c230 or 2001 c240) should be the preferred one for use in abuja?
Where can I locate a good mechanic and rewire technician for Benz in abuja?
If either of this cars are a no go what brand/year of car do I go for bearing in mind my income.
Please note that I can afford to buy either of them but the maintenance and other costs to be associated/incurred while running them are my worry. I need your suggestions as I need to get back to my dealer before the end of the month
Thank you.

Please go for the 1999 c230 considering your income. Though the car hardly breaks down, i am not an Abuja resident so i can't offer any advice on mechanics or Auto Electrician in Abuja. But please don't ever take the car to road side mechanics or auto electrician, always do a diagnostics check before carrying out any repair. Good luck.

stafmedia: Good day all, am a civil servant with a monthly income of about 60k and about to take delivery of either of American specification of 1999 Mercedes Benz c230 or a 2001 c240 when I give the word if which I prefer of the two or any other brand.
My questions are will either of this cars be difficult to maintain (ie servicing, part replacements etc.) in abuja with regards to my income?
What are the differences between that with a compressor and one without?
Which one (1999 c230 or 2001 c240) should be the preferred one for use in abuja?
Where can I locate a good mechanic and rewire technician for Benz in abuja?
If either of this cars are a no go what brand/year of car do I go for bearing in mind my income.
Please note that I can afford to buy either of them but the maintenance and other costs to be associated/incurred while running them are my worry. I need your suggestions as I need to get back to my dealer before the end of the month
Thank you.

Plz go for the '99 C230. How ever, if you could get a C180, they are best performaces as regards fuel efficiency. Mechanics? Don't try roadsides except you know what you wana do. I used to have a rewire around area 1 who works excellently on my mums japs. But when I tuk my '96 C220 to him, he worked bulshit 4 me. Stay off dem. And dont tink of buying anoda ride oda dan the benz. Dat said, I'd try see if I can talk 2 a friend who's broda is an automobile engr wit a shop in abuja. Perhaps he could av friends dat deal mbenz.

Do you mean w202 and w203 cos I think the w203 actualy started pruduction in 1999 as well, while d w202 staryed in 1995 up till 2000 in some location.
i hav read some not too gd reviews abt d w203 mst gave thumb ups for the w202. a number of frends who owned have one complain or d other, mostly naija factor i bliv.
i hav had xperience with the W202. Incredibly cheap to maintain its indistructable. Fuel economy is so great hardly can d much celebrated japvehicle with fuel economy match it.

abdulkadir: Do you mean w202 and w203 cos I think the w203 actualy started pruduction in 1999 as well, while d w202 staryed in 1995 up till 2000 in some location.
i hav read some not too gd reviews abt d w203 mst gave thumb ups for the w202. a number of frends who owned have one complain or d other, mostly naija factor i bliv.
i hav had xperience with the W202. Incredibly cheap to maintain its indistructable. Fuel economy is so great hardly can d much celebrated japvehicle with fuel economy match it.

w202.

The w202 is a great car. Which ever one you choose you wont regret.
the only challange is with the key if you are getting the one with the keyless entry, it brakes over time but that doesnt stop working. If u r getting d kompressor its usually not d conventional key and in some caseds after a while the ignition goes bad nd u hav to change d keys wch on my last check its arnd 70k NGN. The w203 uses similar key.
other than that i dont think dres is part dats so expensive so you wont need to worry abt cost.Its Fuel economy is d bomb, some say 9l / 10okm. I used to do kano to zaria abt 140km with maximum of 15litres. Dre is a thread on dis forum " reliability of c180" tho not much post but it cld be helpful.

Thank you all, I have asked for the 1999 c230 kompressor. I hope to enjoy it like you all have. Only I need to find a good Mechanic and Electrician for it here in Abuja + where to buy the recommended engine oil, ATFs, coolants, MB wiper fluid and replacement parts. Any ideas where I can get all this and know their costs. Thanks

Enjoy Bro all d best.

stafmedia: Thank you all, I have asked for the 1999 c230 kompressor. I hope to enjoy it like you all have. Only I need to find a good Mechanic and Electrician for it here in Abuja + where to buy the recommended engine oil, ATFs, coolants, MB wiper fluid and replacement parts. Any ideas where I can get all this and know their costs. Thanks

Enjoy Bro all d best.

If you dont mind, whats the cost of the c230 like? I always had the opinion that MB were very expensive, but actual users on Nairaland seem to be saying that not true!

congrats @ OP welcome to the MB club.....can't stand all these noise by toyotans!
anyway kip us posted of any development with the ride. HAPPY CRUISING

congrats @stafmedia. Welcome to the RIDE enjoyment club. @all. I am moving for the re-opening of a new mbenz thread as the existing one seems moribund. All in support say aye! Those against say nay! . . .

stafmedia: Thank you all, I have asked for the 1999 c230 kompressor. I hope to enjoy it like you all have. Only I need to find a good Mechanic and Electrician for it here in Abuja + where to buy the recommended engine oil, ATFs, coolants, MB wiper fluid and replacement parts. Any ideas where I can get all this and know their costs. Thanks

Congrats Bro!! U made a perfect choice..I love the c230 kompressor and have tested one,its a power machine..Does any body knows the range of recommended oil for this machine?

Check your filler flap/manual but I think 10W30 oil should be okay in the tropics


au.hanson]

Congrats Bro!! U made a perfect choice..I love the c230 kompressor and have tested one,its a power machine..Does any body knows the range of recommended oil for this machine?[/quote]

Thanks smart choice, but breakdown d grammer for ur guy, which of the oils popular brand here is 10w30?. Alternatively what about 20W50 oil, in d likes of mobil, visco 2000 etc?i have been using them respectively in my c180 and benz 190 unknowingly.. i dnt know any brand here that has 10w30. Pls inform me if u do? thanks

smartchoice: Check your filler flap/manual but I think 10W30 oil should be okay in the tropics


au.hanson]

Congrats Bro!! U made a perfect choice..I love the c230 kompressor and have tested one,its a power machine..Does any body knows the range of recommended oil for this machine?

Check Mobil

au.hanson:
Thanks smart choice, but breakdown d grammer yare, which of the oils popular brand here is 10w30?

for a complete breakdown READ THIS:

Which Oil to Use

Detergent Oil
Virtually all modern multi-weight oils are detergent oils. Detergent oil, cleans the soot of the internal engine parts and suspends the soot particles in the oil. The particles are too small to be trapped by the oil filter and stay in the oil until you change it. These particles are what makes the oil turn darker. These tiny particles do not harm your engine. When the oil becomes saturated with soot particles and is unable to suspend any more, the particles remain on the engine parts. Fortunately, with the current oil change intervals the oil is changed long before the oil is saturated.

Non-detergent oil, such as SAE 30, is not used in modern passenger vehicle engines. It is still used in some gasoline engines such as lawnmowers.

Oil Viscosity
The viscosity of multi-weight motor oil is specified using two numbers. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold. This is followed by the letter W (which stands for winter, not weight), which is followed by the number that indicates the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The higher the number the thicker the oil.

Viscosity Modifiers
In order to protect an engine at start time, the oil needs to be thinner when cold so it flows freely. Viscosity modifiers are added to the base stock to make the oil flow better when cold, without making the oil too thin when hot.

Climate Considerations
Owner's manuals and service manuals will specify the acceptable oil to use at various temperatures. In warm climates, 10W30 is usually an acceptable alternative to the preferred 5W30 and may be used without measurable adverse effects. In the olden days, before multi-weight oils, it was common to have a winter oil and a summer oil. This is no longer necessary, but if you normally use 10W30 because you live in a warm climate then be sure to switch to 5W30 if you plan on using the vehicle in very cold weather.

5W30 versus 10W30
Virtually all new passenger vehicles sold in the U.S. use either 5W30 or 10W30 oil. The difference between the two is that the 5W30 flows better when cold, so if you live in a cold climate or operate your vehicle in a cold climate during the winter months, you should use 5W30 if it is the preferred oil for your vehicle. If you live in a sub-tropical climate and don't operate your vehicle in cold climates, then 10W30 is acceptable as long as the manufacturer specifies that it is permissible to use it.

Is there a disadvantage to using an oil that flows better when cold, i.e. 5W30 versus 10W30?
Sometimes, but usually not. The crux of the issue is this: the bigger the difference between the cold oil viscosity and the hot oil viscosity, the more the volume of viscosity modifiers and the less the volume of base stock. If you are good about following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval then stick with the 5W30 if that is the preferred oil for your vehicle, even if 10W30 is acceptable in warmer climates. Older cars may specify 10W30 only. This is because they need a little more viscosity when cold to keep a protective film on the cylinder walls. There have been instances where the larger amount of viscosity modifiers that are present in 5W30 have broken down due to excessive heat and have left carbon deposits on the valves, but this is extremely rare. The proper fix would be to reduce the excessive heat, but the workaround was to use an oil with less viscosity modifiers.

Why do many oil change places, even dealerships, use 10W30 instead of 5W30, even when 5W30 is preferred?
According to www.cartalk.com (see link in the references section), as well as many mechanics who have posted on usenet, 10W30 is the closest thing to a one size fits all oil. Many older vehicles need 10W30, and most newer vehicles are okay with it in warmer climates. Since many garages don't want to have multiple tanks of bulk oil they choose to carry only 10W30. The advice that Tom & Ray give is correct, 'it would not be a disaster if you used 10W30, but given a choice, go with the manufacturer's recommendation and use the 5W30.'

Thicker is Better Myth
The reason that oil viscosities have gotten thinner is because bearing clearances have become smaller. Using thicker oils will interfere with oil flow and the oil pressure will increase. In a worn engine it may be okay to increase the viscosity of the oil because the bearing clearances have become larger.

for a complete breakdown READ THIS:

Which Oil to Use

The Battle for the Engine Oil Market
Manvic Nzekwe-

As a result of inadequate information and ignorance on the part of many motorists and other end users, engine oil dealers across the country are flooding the market with foreign blended lubricants which experts say might be of lower quality.

Presently, there are over 30 brands of such products, mainly from Asian countries, competing with the locally blended ones.

Among the locally manufactured engine oil are Whiz Oil, AP, AZ, Conoil, Mobil, Tonimas, Hi Speed, Dozzy, Cann Oil, Citrol, Oando and others. The imported brands favourably compete with the ones blended in Nigeria due to their relatively cheaper prices. While a gallon of Mobil Super Engine Oil sells for almost N2000, a gallon of Sharlu or other imported brands sell for N1500.

Experts point out that unless the foreign blends are taken to standard laboratories, it could be difficult to ascertain the quality of such engine oil. They also warn that the use of adulterated and substandard lubricants constitute great danger to the environment due to the unpleasant fumes automobiles that use them may generate

Local challenges

Despite the warnings, many Nigerians still patronize such engine oil unknowingly. Many end users of the product who spoke to M2 say they use the imported ones because they are cheaper and claimed ignorance of its effects on vehicles. This trend might be as a result of the present economic hardship in the country and inherent hitches in the nation’s lubricant market.

A report from the Department of Petroleum Resources (DPR) revealed that the lubricant market is fraught with non availability of locally produced base oil which has caused proliferation of substandard lubricants. Nigeria is still importing base oil due to the fact that the unit in the Kaduna Refinery and Petrochemical Company, which is the only plant that produce base oil i Nigeria, has been out of production since 1995.

Thanku very much smartchoice on the clarification of this info..i read it sometime somewhere but never really understood as i do now...In order words , does it mean that those of us over here(in Nigeria) that uses 20w50 are really killing our engine with friction at early morning startups?.. could that be the reason why mobil1(0w40) is recommended for almost all Mercedes benz i come accross?

smartchoice: for a complete breakdown READ THIS:

Which Oil to Use

Detergent Oil
Virtually all modern multi-weight oils are detergent oils. Detergent oil, cleans the soot of the internal engine parts and suspends the soot particles in the oil. The particles are too small to be trapped by the oil filter and stay in the oil until you change it. These particles are what makes the oil turn darker. These tiny particles do not harm your engine. When the oil becomes saturated with soot particles and is unable to suspend any more, the particles remain on the engine parts. Fortunately, with the current oil change intervals the oil is changed long before the oil is saturated.

Non-detergent oil, such as SAE 30, is not used in modern passenger vehicle engines. It is still used in some gasoline engines such as lawnmowers.

Oil Viscosity
The viscosity of multi-weight motor oil is specified using two numbers. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold. This is followed by the letter W (which stands for winter, not weight), which is followed by the number that indicates the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The higher the number the thicker the oil.

Viscosity Modifiers
In order to protect an engine at start time, the oil needs to be thinner when cold so it flows freely. Viscosity modifiers are added to the base stock to make the oil flow better when cold, without making the oil too thin when hot.

Climate Considerations
Owner's manuals and service manuals will specify the acceptable oil to use at various temperatures. In warm climates, 10W30 is usually an acceptable alternative to the preferred 5W30 and may be used without measurable adverse effects. In the olden days, before multi-weight oils, it was common to have a winter oil and a summer oil. This is no longer necessary, but if you normally use 10W30 because you live in a warm climate then be sure to switch to 5W30 if you plan on using the vehicle in very cold weather.

5W30 versus 10W30
Virtually all new passenger vehicles sold in the U.S. use either 5W30 or 10W30 oil. The difference between the two is that the 5W30 flows better when cold, so if you live in a cold climate or operate your vehicle in a cold climate during the winter months, you should use 5W30 if it is the preferred oil for your vehicle. If you live in a sub-tropical climate and don't operate your vehicle in cold climates, then 10W30 is acceptable as long as the manufacturer specifies that it is permissible to use it.

Is there a disadvantage to using an oil that flows better when cold, i.e. 5W30 versus 10W30?
Sometimes, but usually not. The crux of the issue is this: the bigger the difference between the cold oil viscosity and the hot oil viscosity, the more the volume of viscosity modifiers and the less the volume of base stock. If you are good about following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval then stick with the 5W30 if that is the preferred oil for your vehicle, even if 10W30 is acceptable in warmer climates. Older cars may specify 10W30 only. This is because they need a little more viscosity when cold to keep a protective film on the cylinder walls. There have been instances where the larger amount of viscosity modifiers that are present in 5W30 have broken down due to excessive heat and have left carbon deposits on the valves, but this is extremely rare. The proper fix would be to reduce the excessive heat, but the workaround was to use an oil with less viscosity modifiers.

Why do many oil change places, even dealerships, use 10W30 instead of 5W30, even when 5W30 is preferred?
According to www.cartalk.com (see link in the references section), as well as many mechanics who have posted on usenet, 10W30 is the closest thing to a one size fits all oil. Many older vehicles need 10W30, and most newer vehicles are okay with it in warmer climates. Since many garages don't want to have multiple tanks of bulk oil they choose to carry only 10W30. The advice that Tom & Ray give is correct, 'it would not be a disaster if you used 10W30, but given a choice, go with the manufacturer's recommendation and use the 5W30.'

Thicker is Better Myth
The reason that oil viscosities have gotten thinner is because bearing clearances have become smaller. Using thicker oils will interfere with oil flow and the oil pressure will increase. In a worn engine it may be okay to increase the viscosity of the oil because the bearing clearances have become larger.

au.hanson:
Thanku very much smartchoice on the clarification of this info..i read it sometime somewhere but never really understood as i do now...In order words , does it mean that those of us over here(in Nigeria) that uses 20w50 are really killing our engine with friction at early morning startups?.. could that be the reason why mobil1(0w40) is recommended for almost all Mercedes benz i come accross?

@au.hanson: U just spoke my mind.
@smartchoice: I used Mobil 1 for my first service. However, a mechanic in Abuja says I shuld discontinue it. He opined that the said oil were for brand new cars. What do you say to this.

Even here on this forum most pple wil tell u synthetic oils like mobil 1 are for low mileage cars. Dre argument is dat Engines components of high mileage cars would have had more clearance hence thin oils like mobil1 will blow pass d cylinder without doing wats its sppsed to.
the pple i refer to here are those who really know about cars and talk not because dey wanna talk but because dey know wat dey r doing.

jahjehova:
@au.hanson: U just spoke my mind.
@smartchoice: I used Mobil 1 for my first service. However, a mechanic in Abuja says I shuld discontinue it. He opined that the said oil were for brand new cars. What do you say to this.

Even here on this forum most pple wil tell u synthetic oils like mobil 1 are for low mileage cars. Dre argument is dat Engines components of high mileage cars would have had more clearance hence thin oils like mobil1 will blow pass d cylinder without doing wats its sppsed to.
the pple i refer to here are those who really know about cars and talk not because dey wanna talk but because dey know wat dey r doing.

The Mercedes in question uses SAE 0w-40. The sheet must be 229.1 specification. SAE 5w or 10w is permitted for this is for cranking and it cancels out. This is for the duration of the engine life; that is, 50 years or 1,000,000 miles (whichever comes first).

Mercedes engines have always been different. As the engine wears, it is thoroughly compensated. This phrase alone is beyond the scope of this thread. Using a thicker oil save for extreme towing only causes the engines to run hotter than designed and your bar (pressure) gets too high within the crankcase. This is besides the consideration that lubrication wouldn't be optimal.

In the summer, there are times my engine runs 110 degrees or 115 degrees (sometimes) and it has been for so many years. That is how it was designed to run according to the documentation. In addition to that, I do my oil changes every 15 to 18 months; and that goes for all my vehicles. Only once have I had to break the schedule and do an unplanned oil change. This was because for the better part of 9 hours, most of it was spent idling and creeping. This was a State evacuation. The state of the oil failed approximately 300 miles later. Don't attempt this with ordinary oil.

The 202 will be forgiving of oil noncompliance. The 203 wouldn't.

@Trac am following ur explanations keenly, pls break it down some more.

Mercedes engines have always been different. As the engine wears, it is thoroughly compensated. This phrase alone is beyond the scope of this thread

abdulkadir: Even here on this forum most pple wil tell u synthetic oils like mobil 1 are for low mileage cars. Dre argument is dat Engines components of high mileage cars would have had more clearance hence thin oils like mobil1 will blow pass d cylinder without doing wats its sppsed to.
the pple i refer to here are those who really know about cars and talk not because dey wanna talk but because dey know wat dey r doing.Even here on this forum most pple wil tell u synthetic oils like mobil 1 are for low mileage cars. Dre argument is dat Engines components of high mileage cars would have had more clearance hence thin oils like mobil1 will blow pass d cylinder without doing wats its sppsed to.
the pple i refer to here are those who really know about cars and talk not because dey wanna talk but because dey know wat dey r doing.

This is wrong. First of all, the application to the supposed situation does not exist. If the so-called professional cannot explain using scientific laws, then your position of being ignorant has been better of. The difference between high-mileage bias oils and original formulated oils is there are conditioners to recondition seals that are aging. Nothing more to it. Anything other thing is an opinion. There is no mechanic in a bottle.

The symptom you stated is what is associated with a worn engine. The solution is mechanical repair. A comprehensive repair will be a rebuild or a "blueprinting." Anything else, you are just wasting your money and deferring the solution.

This discussion is about MB's, right?! MB's don't have those issues for certain factors have been taken to compensate for age-progressive states. This is why after 25 years, the engine still runs like new. If you don't believe this, look for any well maintained MB and sit behind the wheel and coast. The engines are robust and they don't wear as you stated.

If you truly understand how engine oil works, you wouldn't have stated what you posted. There are laws that govern the properties of oil in a quart can. These laws and physical properties do not work as you have explained.

smartchoice: @Trac am following ur explanations keenly, pls break it down some more.

Mercedes engines have always been different. As the engine wears, it is thoroughly compensated. This phrase alone is beyond the scope of this thread

The scope is wide and it will be too deep to explain without explaining the composition of the engine (and that is complicated on its own). In a summarised form, as the engine wears, there are certain readjustments the ECU and other mechanical functions do to compensate for wear. That is when they wear. This is why you can drive a 20 year Mercedes and it just purrs and still pulls hard. The engines can never be improved; never! Any combustion technology Mercedes releases is the best and there is almost no room for further improvements are not economically reasonable. An engine specification has thousands of patents (in the 10's). Throughout motoring, Mercedes have always been different and it isn't my opinion but automotive engineering. Their philosophy is different.

The cars were heavy not because they couldn't make their minds up on how much mass it should be but the quality of materials used comprehensively.

I am presently using a 2001 full option c class w202. I have never had a better yesterday of driving since I got it for a year now..it drives excellently everything in it works fine like new although I got it as a tokunbo and It has served me satisfyingly excellent with tours and travels countlessly but now am faced with a decision and I hope to make a good one and that's why am asking my good people here...I want to get am ML 320 1999 due to where I stay and coupled with my need to carry more...please I need your full sincere opinion on this decision. Should i go for the ML320 and reasons please....plus how I can sell my c class fast......thanks

Fortune89:

I am presently using a 2001 full option c class w202. I have never had a better yesterday of driving since I got it for a year now..it drives excellently everything in it works fine like new although I got it as a tokunbo and It has served me satisfyingly excellent with tours and travels countlessly but now am faced with a decision and I hope to make a good one and that's why am asking my good people here...I want to get am ML 320 1999 due to where I stay and coupled with my need to carry more...please I need your full sincere opinion on this decision. Should i go for the ML320 and reasons please....plus how I can sell my c class fast......thanks

Where are you located?

nakoks:


Where are you located?

Am in lagos.......ojodu berger to be precise
You can beep me whatsapp...08069132303

Get a C180 or C200,the fuel economy is lovely.

Trac:
The Mercedes in question uses SAE 0w-40. The sheet must be 229.1 specification. SAE 5w or 10w is permitted for this is for cranking and it cancels out. This is for the duration of the engine life; that is, 50 years or 1,000,000 miles (whichever comes first).

Mercedes engines have always been different. As the engine wears, it is thoroughly compensated. This phrase alone is beyond the scope of this thread. Using a thicker oil save for extreme towing only causes the engines to run hotter than designed and your bar (pressure) gets too high within the crankcase. This is besides the consideration that lubrication wouldn't be optimal.

In the summer, there are times my engine runs 110 degrees or 115 degrees (sometimes) and it has been for so many years. That is how it was designed to run according to the documentation. In addition to that, I do my oil changes every 15 to 18 months; and that goes for all my vehicles. Only once have I had to break the schedule and do an unplanned oil change. This was because for the better part of 9 hours, most of it was spent idling and creeping. This was a State evacuation. The state of the oil failed approximately 300 miles later. Don't attempt this with ordinary oil.

The 202 will be forgiving of oil noncompliance. The 203 wouldn't.

W202 c180 and w202 c230 NA which do u recommend for durability and ease of maintenance?

With a monthly income of 60k, will you be able to maintain this benz. Benz is a luxury car and it's maintenance can create a hole in your pocket with a low income. Why not go for cars with maximum fuel economy and easy to maintain such as golf 3, Toyota Corolla or Camry tiny light (with 4plug). The most important thing is that your car is serving you and it responds whenever it's called. After you can go for benz when your salary is increased beyond 150k.