Please i beg for help from all the car gurus in the house. I drive a nissan maxima 2000 model,V6 automatic engine. Recently i noticed the gear box of my car was showing the following signs of failure;
1. Delayed engagement to D
2. Cldnt not climb a hill
3. Sluggish acceleration
4. Low power in drive despite a high engine rev.
Precisely last week, my mech n i resolved it was time to get a new tranny which we did. But the problem is that on driving the car over a long distance y'day, i noticed that the car jerks when doing btw 40-60km/h in between gears. I'm at the moment confused on what to do cos my mech says it myt be the fuel line bt i'm not entirely convinced it is.
Pls all the gurus in the house, kindly help a brother.
Thanks

Scan the car first. Don't do trial and error method first

Sorry about your car wahala.
What your car experiences is gear slippage (meaning the car is suppose to change gear automatically when it gets to a particular speed when accelerating, but it missed the engagement of the gear) hence the high rev and little or no speed is gained.
I'd like u to answer the following questions.

1. Did you change the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) before if Yes, why did you change it?

2. If you had changed the ATF before, what type of Fluid did you use after the change?

3 If you check the Dipstick in the ATF (before you changed the ATF prior to the ATF change), what colour is the Automatic Transmiss Fluid (ATF), Does it have little grits or particles or sediments and is the fluid dark or blackish coloured/dirty?

4. Have anyone worked on that gearbox before at point in time before this wahala?

I need replies to these questions before telling you next steps. Don't change that gearbox yet.

@ diehard, thanks for the response. I'll take the car for a scan.

@ lomomike, yeah i had worked on the former transmission bt dis problem is what i'm experiencing on the new tranny i just fixed barely a week ago and the mech used oando dextron tranny fluid.

Pls i'll welcome more contributions
Thanks

oando dextron tranny fluid. not even dextron III fluid what happend to nissan's recommended ATF ? Automatic trannies are very very sensitive and selective. Drain that ATF and get Nissan Matic " D " ASAP inside that tranny. When you've driven a while say, 30- minutes - 1hour, drain that fluid and pour another Nissan Matic " D " because it contains remnant of that oando dextron and any contaminants. Repeat this procedure a couple of time say, 2-3 times to totally eliminate any contaminants. When you do that, give us feed back.

Okay boss, i'll do that and get back to you.
Thanks

Good morning good people of nairaland. Please i did a scan on my car regarding the jerking issue i had earlier raised. The following codes popped up. Pls i truly need interpretation of the codes cos my mechanic doesnt seem to have an idea as to what the problem is.
P1320
P0110
P0180
Pls ur suggestion n expert advice will be most welcomed. Btw i observed the jerk was btw gear changes.
Thanks

Still waiting for help. Thanks

As a pont of correction to my earlier post, d jerk isnt between gear changes . Thanks

sir-olotu:
Good morning good people of nairaland. Please i did a scan on my car regarding the jerking issue i had earlier raised. The following codes popped up. Pls i truly need interpretation of the codes cos my mechanic doesnt seem to have an idea as to what the problem is.
P1320
P0110
P0180
Pls ur suggestion n expert advice will be most welcomed. Btw i observed the jerk was btw gear changes.
Thanks

P01320-Possible causes
- Faulty power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Ignition primary circuit is open or shorted (circuit to ignition coils)
- Ignition primary circuit poor electrical connection (circuit to ignition coils)
- Faulty ignition system condenser
- Crankshaft position sensor circuit
The P1320 code means that there is problem with the "Ignition Coil" or the wire to the ignition coil. For some models without individual ignition coils the Ignition Coil is inside the distributor and the distributor need to be replaced to fix the problem

P110
Possible causes
- Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
- Dirty air filter
- Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
An excessively low or high voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM.

Possible Solutions
First visually check that the IAT is in place and hasn't been dislodged. As a quick check of the IAT, use a scan tool & check for IAT reading with KOEO (Key on engine off). If the engine is cold, the IAT reading should be the same as the CTS (Coolant temperature sensor) reading. If it shows more than a few degrees variance (for example, if it indicates a temperature extreme like negative 40 deg. or 300 deg. then obviously there's a problem) unplug the IAT and do a resistance test across the two terminals. Each sensor will have different resistances so you'll have to get that info from a repair manual. If the resistance of the IAT sensor isn't within specs, replace the sensor. There should be some resistance, so if it measures infinite resistance, replace the sensor.


P0180
Possible causes
- Faulty Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor
- Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Help with Possible causes Help with this

When is the code detected?
An excessively high or low voltage is sent to Engine Control Module (ECM).








souce: http://engine-codes.com/

Thanks for the interpretation. So what do you advise i do now. Shld i change the ignition coils? D last time i checked the coils, they wr working well. Pls i rly need help.
Thanks

sir-olotu:
Thanks for the interpretation. So what do you advise i do now. Shld i change the ignition coils? D last time i checked the coils, they wr working well. Pls i rly need help.
Thanks

can you reset your computer first and then scan again, remove the battery terminals for some minutes or discharge them.
some codes are just generic.

also check your ATF, look at LOKOMYKE advice.

From your post, it seems like you have sorted the geearbox issue out and now have an engine problem.

The scan results show that one or more ignition coils seem to be faulty and that on its own could possibly if not definitely cause a jerk in the drive.

You will have to change the faulty coil.

Cat-Doctor.

take several pic of your engine and post then we can show you theories you need to make sure is properly connected, all your fault indicate some sensors are not connected/working

Thanks all. I rly appreciate the advice. I'll start looking into the coils asap. @sultan, i'll try n get the pics though my camera is bad at the moment. Thanks

sir-olotu:
Good morning good people of nairaland. Please i did a scan on my car regarding the jerking issue i had earlier raised. The following codes popped up. Pls i truly need interpretation of the codes cos my mechanic doesnt seem to have an idea as to what the problem is.
P1320
P0110
P0180
Pls ur suggestion n expert advice will be most welcomed. Btw i observed the jerk was btw gear changes.
Thanks

DTC P0110: Intake air temperature sensor
DTC P0180: Fuel tank temperature sensor
These are not too serious issues to cause the symptom you describe. For the first you might have to check for air leaks; and for the second it could be that your fuel pump is on its way out. As for the third code (possibly the culprit), you might need to check the connections of, or change, your two crankshaft position sensors. If you don't mind you may post your VIN to be certain on the crankshaft position sensor for your car model.

sir-olotu:
Thanks all. I rly appreciate the advice. I'll start looking into the coils asap. @sultan, i'll try n get the pics though my camera is bad at the moment. Thanks

The P1320 is the relevant code for the current symptom you have reported, which basically has to do with loss of compression due to some cylinders not contributing to the combustion process. The other codes (P0110 & p0180) may have been there before the malfunction that brought about the P1320
Your Ignition coil is the problem. Get a vendor to supply you a new set of coils, replace them and scan again after erasing the old codes with the scanner first.

Gluck4cars:

Your Ignition coil is the problem. Get a vendor to supply you a new set of coils, replace them and scan again after erasing the old codes with the scanner first.

I actually sidelined the coils on the OP's evidence that he had run a check on them---except, of course, it had not been properly done. (Though I should admit here that one the major problems of the 5th gen Max are its coils.) Perhaps he needs to look at the connections again. I highlighted the crankshaft sensor because like the camshaft sensor it has a way of manifesting its problems on the transmission and engine power. Anyway, before the OP decides to buy the parts he should make sure that connectors (connections) are not damaged and are securely fitted.

Thanks everyone for your wonderful contributions, i really appreciate the time u guys took out to attend to my query.
However, i had initially suspected the fuel pump of which i had it changed but the symptoms persisted. i intend to look into the coils but i must add that at some point i had three of the coils changed but left the other three unattended to which i believe based on ur assertions above may be the problem.

The problem i have with getting parts here in port-harcourt is that u'r hardly guaranteed good parts and the mechs we have here dont seem to have an idea as to how to fix these things. Please if anyone knows any competent mech here in ph, i'll be glad if u cld give me the contact so i can have the problem sorted out once and for all.

Thanks very much

sir-olotu:
Thanks everyone for your wonderful contributions, i really appreciate the time u guys took out to attend to my query.
However, i had initially suspected the fuel pump of which i had it changed but the symptoms persisted. i intend to look into the coils but i must add that at some point i had three of the coils changed but left the other three unattended to which i believe based on ur assertions above may be the problem.

The problem i have with getting parts here in port-harcourt is that u'r hardly guaranteed good parts and the mechs we have here dont seem to have an idea as to how to fix these things. Please if anyone knows any competent mech here in ph, i'll be glad if u cld give me the contact so i can have the problem sorted out once and for all.

Thanks very much

So then, the coils have not be fully attended to. Nevertheless, I don't want you to ignore the possibility of faulty connections. Send your email address to this number--08023018285-- and I'll forward to you a Nissan TSB that addresses that issue (and hoping your VIN might match those concerned.)

Hello experts in the house.

I just got a car from a frnd. A 2001 honda accord v4. It drives fairly smoothly, but has some isssues.

1. It leaks a little engine oil.

2. When the AC is on, and the car is in traffic , and I'm stepping on the brake while on gear 4, the engine vibrates a lot.

3. Also , when I've driven for a while, and negotiating a turn, the sterring hums loudly.( I've topped up the sterring fluid but it didn't work)

4. I also feel , it needs maintenance by a good mechanic.


Can any one in the house speciall the likes of CARDOCTOR direct me to a good mechanic that can look at the car as a whole and advise me accordingly??


Any help will be greatly appreciated.p.s I'm in lagos. Any place around gbagada. Yaba ,surulere etc will do

Hello everyone, I sincerely apologise for not getting back to the house on time as regards the aforementioned issues. I carried out a comoprehensive check on the coils n realised 4 of them needed replacement which I did within the week. However, I still noticed the jerks on high speed though not as frequently as it used to be bt it was jerking all the same. I'm a bit confused as to what line of action I should take next. Kindly help a concerned fellow. Thanks

Please car gurus In the house, please help... Thanks

Take out the injectors and have them cleaned/serviced

I'll do that nisspart. Thanks

Gluck4cars:

The P1320 is the relevant code for the current symptom you have reported,

Your Ignition coil is the problem. Get a vendor to supply you a new set of coils, replace them and scan again after erasing the old codes with the scanner first.

A month ago I suggested you replace the faulty ignition coils based on the P1320 code. And asked you do a scan and post the code here for further solutions to your car problem.
The problem of working without scan results is you end up blind guessing/ parts-swapping, obviously creating other problems while trying to solve the present.

For the jerks at high speed, you may need to replace your fuel filter (certainly need to do this first if you are planning on injector servicing). But before I describe the location and replacement method, i need to see the current codes from a scan. That's how I know what your Engine Control Module is detecting as it monitors your car performance.

thanks very much gluck4cars for ur response. i will carry out another scan on the ride n i hope to give u a feed back asap. thanks