Please help,my camry 2.2L (orobo) 1994 5FSE manual transmision drives very great as i ws coming back from onitsha 2 enugu yesterday on aproaching enugu tow gate my check engine light flash on en d car immediately reduce speed even as i accelerate more d car wont just respond.
Dis morning i start d car en its runs normal witout d check engine light on but after driving for a while d light came up again en d car speed drops immediately den i turn off d engine whille vehicle still on motion en turn it on again d light went off en d car drives normal without lagging . later d check engine light come up again en affecting d cars movement up to 40percent.
I took d car to an electrician d guy changed my plugs but d light still came up en d car doesnt have much power again wit d light on.... Any help please will be highly accepted tanx

Your mechanic changed plugs without scanning vehicle to find out code error, you should sack that mechanic. You need to have your vehicle scanned.
Your vehicle has an OBD1 scan port, usually located in your engine bay.

Lol at ur mechanic. So check engine light came on and he changed plugs . ur mechanic must be Einstein to think he knows what the culprit is without a scanner.

Your car will likely not be OBD-II compliant, considering the model year. But will have OBD port. But you can check to be sure. I think OBD-II scan port has 16 pins, while OBD has less. Count yours.

If the car happens to be non-OBD II, then manual troubleshooting is the available option, unless you have the adopter for scanning OBD system with OBD-II scan tool.

Manual troubleshooting doesn't mean throwing parts at the car until the problem stops. It means testing sensors/components with Digital MultiMeter to find out one that has fallen short of factory values, among other methods and manual troubleshooting tools, like the Fuel pressure gauge to know how good a fuel pump is, etc.

Your car symptom sounds more like an injection issue, not ignition. So replacing spark plugs was a waste of money. The spark plugs shouldn't be on the list of components to test, considering the symptom.

I believe your injection system uses AFM, not MAF. You can start from there. But you need to know the factory values required of your AFM to signal to the ECU and the AFM wires to test (ECU signal wires). Since the fault is intermittent, swapping in another AFM may not give you instant result, unless the seller would allow you to drive out and test before you pay. It wouldn't hurt to clean the AFM in the car first, it could solve your problem.

I doubt if it's your distributor (if thats what your ignition system has), since a failing distributor, distributor cap or spark plug leads would give constant rough idling and misfiring sometimes. Hence, i wouldn't bother with ignition system, for now. But then, i don't really know how Toyota ignition system works. So, it could still be your ignition after all.

When the CEL comes on and the power drops, does it emit a particular colour of smoke from the exhaust? If you don't know, next time it happens, stop and observe it. If possible, have someone depress the accelertor hard, while you watch the exhaust at the car rear.

There are other injection components that give such symptom, but will stop here for now, until you give us more details.

But if you can find an OBD scanner, then you wont need all I explained above. Good luck !


Ikenna

Lexusgs430: Your mechanic changed plugs without scanning vehicle to find out code error, you should sack that mechanic. You need to have your vehicle scanned.
Your vehicle has an OBD1 scan port, usually located in your engine bay.

yes it does i think that i will do on monday

Ikenna351: Your car will likely not be OBD-II compliant, considering the model year. But will have OBD port. But you can check to be sure. I think OBD-II scan port has 16 pins, while OBD has less. Count yours.

If the car happens to be non-OBD II, then manual troubleshooting is the available option, unless you have the adopter for scanning OBD system with OBD-II scan tool.

Manual troubleshooting doesn't mean throwing parts at the car until the problem stops. It means testing sensors/components with Digital MultiMeter to find out one that has fallen short of factory values, among other methods and manual troubleshooting tools, like the Fuel pressure gauge to know how good a fuel pump is, etc.

Your car symptom sounds more like an injection issue, not ignition. So replacing spark plugs was a waste of money. The spark plugs shouldn't be on the list of components to test, considering the symptom.

I believe your injection system uses AFM, not MAF. You can start from there. But you need to know the factory values required of your AFM to signal to the ECU and the AFM wires to test (ECU signal wires). Since the fault is intermittent, swapping in another AFM may not give you instant result, unless the seller would allow you to drive out and test before you pay. It wouldn't hurt to clean the AFM in the car first, it could solve your problem.

I doubt if it's your distributor (if thats what your ignition system has), since a failing distributor, distributor cap or spark plug leads would give constant rough idling. Hence, i wouldn't bother with ignition system, for now.

When the CEL comes on and the power drops, does it emit a particular colour of smoke from the exhaust? If you don't know, next time it happens, stop and observe it. If possible, have someone depress the accelertor hard, while you watch the exhaust at the car rear.

There are other injection components that give such symptom, but will stop here for now, until you give us more details.

But if you can find an OBD scanner, then you wont need all I explained above. Good luck !


Ikenna

thanx bro, d car doesnt bring out any smoke while d CEL is ON, even at idling d car idle's ok .
I checked on d OBD port at d hud by d passenger side it has many pins but some stand apart from each other i cant rly count d pins.......i ll snap en upload it later en also gettin dis scana here is dis part of d world wil equally be a task shah.
Due to local govt electiion here i cant go out as movement restricted,
MAF sensor....did u mean d one located at d intake air filter unit?
But i also discover something last night that the CEL LIGHT NORMALLY CAME UP AT A CERTAIN TEMPERATURE LEVEL THRU OUT LAST NIGHT I DRIVE D CAR THE LIGHT DID NOT CAME UP EN CAR DRIVES OK DUE TO WEATHER IS NOT HOT EN THE CAR TEMP GUAGE IS VERY LOW.
Please more help will apprecitaed since i would prefer handling d problem manually due to lack of dis advance tech scanner here en also d age of d car tnx ones again
please wts d different btw MAF en AFM
the igniton system is distributor type