klipse:
Hi Nlanders,

I had my injectors cleaned and changed my 4 plugs. My mechanic said he cleaned the injector head with thinner and applied oil treatment to stop a tampering sound from the engine. Now my car drives quieter but the idle is high. around 1500 to 1800 on cold start and drops to 1200 rpm.

How can I reduce the idle to the factory default at 700? I read stuff online and it said I have to perform the idle re-learn procedure, what is that?

Car: honda accord 2008, 4cyl
Thanks

klipse:
Thanks, I had to drive out to buy groceries and on my way back the check engine light came on. Now I couldn't perform the idle relearn plus i have a check engine light...what could be worse now. Did it come on due to the high idle? Can you recommend someone i can meet today to scan and fix this issue, i will be on the road to ibadan next week.

klipse:
Hi Nlanders,

I had my injectors cleaned and changed my 4 plugs. My mechanic said he cleaned the injector head with thinner and applied oil treatment to stop a tampering sound from the engine. Now my car drives quieter but the idle is high. around 1500 to 1800 on cold start and drops to 1200 rpm.

How can I reduce the idle to the factory default at 700? I read stuff online and it said I have to perform the idle re-learn procedure, what is that?

Car: honda accord 2008, 4cyl
Thanks

Toksytoks:
This same thing happened to my 2009 Honda accord. I allowed a mechanic clean my injector head and he messed up my car. The idle went up and my car started consuming fuel and I found it hard to reduce my speed or slow down..the would push forward eachtime. I tried the idle re-learn it didnt work I went to oyingbo and had the black switch on the Injector head changed..the problem resolved but the check engine light is still on. I have tried all forms of scanning,the check engine light will dusappear onlybto reappear after few days. Change the black switch/sensor on the injector mouth or get a new injector head..the idle will normalize but as for the check engine light I have resigned my fate . Do not allow anyone clean your injector again.

klipse:
Hi Nlanders,

I had my injectors cleaned and changed my 4 plugs. My mechanic said he cleaned the injector head with thinner and applied oil treatment to stop a tampering sound from the engine. Now my car drives quieter but the idle is high. around 1500 to 1800 on cold start and drops to 1200 rpm.

How can I reduce the idle to the factory default at 700? I read stuff online and it said I have to perform the idle re-learn procedure, what is that?

Car: honda accord 2008, 4cyl
Thanks

Toksytoks:
This same thing happened to my 2009 Honda accord. I allowed a mechanic clean my injector head and he messed up my car. The idle went up and my car started consuming fuel and I found it hard to reduce my speed or slow down..the would push forward eachtime. I tried the idle re-learn it didnt work I went to oyingbo and had the black switch on the Injector head changed..the problem resolved but the check engine light is still on. I have tried all forms of scanning,the check engine light will dusappear onlybto reappear after few days. Change the black switch/sensor on the injector mouth or get a new injector head..the idle will normalize but as for the check engine light I have resigned my fate . Do not allow anyone clean your injector again.

GAZZUZZ:
Zimdrill they are talking about electroninc throttle body cleaning, that resulted in high RPM.

GAZZUZZ:
Zimdrill they are talking about electroninc throttle body cleaning, that resulted in high RPM.

disloman:

GAZZUZZ:


MATTHEW! WHY U DE SHINE TEETH?

klipse:


Exactly the same issue i am having now. It pushes forward even when i am braking. And its consuming plenty fuel. I disconnected the battery and reconnect after 10secs which cleared the check engine light but it came back on. Please how much did you pay for the injector head black switch?

disloman:

ZIMDRILL:


your throttle seems to be a bit tight whether its carbon deposit or something else, hence when you brake you feel that the car is fighting to keep on going it, meaning when you brake you let go of the accelerator/gas pedal the throttle stay open let more air meaning car contiunes with same speed even when you foot is off the gas pedal

try by cleaning the throttle body check any carbon built up its a DIY job if you are good with your hands, use throttle body cleaner than any other unrecommended chemicals


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41yFXjibtLY

you still need to get your car scanned for the check engine light

disloman:
frm what u mentioned might nt b what is causing d fault.cos d op didn't mention it as y he asked d mech to service d fuel line of the car.The mech should recheck d injector seals,the plugs n d air flowmeter hose if damaged.

klipse:
Hi Nlanders,

I had my injectors cleaned and changed my 4 plugs. My mechanic said he cleaned the injector head with thinner and applied oil treatment to stop a tampering sound from the engine. Now my car drives quieter but the idle is high. around 1500 to 1800 on cold start and drops to 1200 rpm.

How can I reduce the idle to the factory default at 700? I read stuff online and it said I have to perform the idle re-learn procedure, what is that?

Car: honda accord 2008, 4cyl
Thanks

mayor2013:


Another beautiful rubbish

chukel:
I agree with disloman. They are having leaky injectors from the seals. While the car is off, fuel leaks thru the bad seals into the cylinders. Once they start, burning off the excess fuel gives high rpm. That's just my postulation. I may be wrong. But I have discovered a very wrong approach of injector cleaning by mechanics. Carb and choke cleaner which they use eats up the seal. They also do not apply voltage to the terminals to open up the valve during cleaning. I'm sure u guys will be getting rich codes like p0172 and or P0175 depending on how many cylinders u have. Change all seals of the nozzles.

GAZZUZZ:


lets get something clear this is a typical injector
notice it has 2 seals? 1side seals off fuel from leaking from the fuel rail, while the other side seals up vacuum from the intake.

a leak from the intake side is more likely.

chukel:
gazzuz, please more explanation. Where are the seals. The annotations don't show any seals. Really want to understand this. Thanks for the diagram

chukel:
gazzuz, please more explanation. Where are the seals. The annotations don't show any seals. Really want to understand this. Thanks for the diagram

GAZZUZZ:
more pics fuel rail.

intake with injectors






following now?

mayor2013:



Better still called "O rings"

klipse:
Well the mechanic said he did the following:

1. Changed my plugs (9k for four of them)
2. Cleaned the throttle head (that is where the air intake hose from the air filter joins) he said he did not remove the head just cleaned the area with thinner.
3. Serviced the four injectors, said he removed them and flush them, that they have 12 holes unlike the usual 6 older models have. Said he made sure the were spraying well then coupled them back

I noticed that some fluid (maybe fuel leak was on the first injector even after a long drive which heat from the engine should have had it evaporated, didn't check the others). Could it mean the seals on the injectors are bad due to removing and cleaning with thinner?

ZIMDRILL:


did he touch the MAP sensor ? especially if the thinner got contact with MAP sensor

chukel:
very correct. Escaped my memory. In fact that's the name, not seal. Thanks.