kYjelly2:
Hello house, please I need an ac specialist to tell me whats up with my car.

The ac compressor short cycles (on 10 secs off 5 secs) whenever I am at idle, but when I begin to drive the compressor stays on.

I conducted an experiment yesterday and noticed that if I have the hood open when I idle, the compressor runs smoothly and doesn't short cycle. However when I close the hood, still idling, the compressor starts to short cycle after about 5 mins.

Makes me believe it's a heat related issue, but I just can't put my finger on it.

please help

Village people involved. Solution. MFM.


What vehicle? Engine size? Repair history? Any a.c concerns apart from what you explained above?.

Personally I do not think there is anything wrong with your vehicle. Manual compressors are not meant to be perpetually, when cabin temp attains set temperature compressor is deactivated. Until temp goes higher again.

GAZZUZZ:


Village people involved. Solution. MFM.


What vehicle? Engine size? Repair history? Any a.c concerns apart from what you explained above?.

Personally I do not think there is anything wrong with your vehicle. Manual compressors are not meant to be perpetually, when cabin temp attains set temperature compressor is deactivated. Until temp goes higher again.

kYjelly2:


lol

these villagers that are always flying over ppls cars at night

anyways, yeah, I get the whole auto climate control thing, where the compressor should disengage after attaining a set temperature. However if you notice, some cars (like mine) have a "LO" climate control setting, below the last actual digit, like below 16 degrees Cels, for instance. I believe on this low setting at high fan speed, the compressor shouldn't cycle.

The car is a 2010 Toyota Avensis (think 1.8L). I just had all the ac components replaced; condenser, evaporator, compressor and ac lines.

I noticed that the condenser is getting extremely hot, hence maybe why it doesn't cycle when I open the hood on idle, or when I am driving as during driving, a lot of air is forced through the condenser from the grill.

I seemed to have a little bit of success with bleeding some refrigerant from the low line (as I heard overcharging may be an issue) and the cycle seems to be a bit longer, but I can't be sure just yet. So I have decided to try again at the end of the day to see if this is a real solution or if I have to take the car back to the mechanic. I just don't want to take it back as the mech takes way too long to resolve my issues. My car has been there for like 2 months now and I'm just happy to have it back. To now send it back again for another month, don't know if I can handle that