Thanks...will check it out

pranil:


You can calculate the expected performance of your panels and then compare to the field readings. PVGIS gives very accurate values to the P10 probability[sup][/sup] ( +-10 % ) within actual prediction

http://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvgis/apps4/pvest.php?lang=en&map=africa

Dam5reey:


In this case.. PWM will be a waste of resources....

For better efficiency.. if you are not looking at cost go 24V battery Voltage system with 40A MPPT controller....

Your 800W panel will provide approx. 60A @ float charge of 13.8V. you will spend more in this case... Since 60A MPPT controller is required...

Go with first option.. otherwise​ you can go with your installer,

Does the highlighted mean battery connection should be in series rather than in panel as currently is?

davodyguy:
Does the highlighted mean battery connection should be in series rather than in panel as currently is?

Yes, this will make your battery system 24 Voltage.. and capacity 200Ah.. Rather than your 12V 400Ah.
however, you will need to change the Inverter to 24V..

Since your Panel is 800Watts.. you can use a 24V 40A MPPT controller, which will take 1040Watts panel at 24V

Dam5reey:


Yes, this will make your battery system 24 Voltage.. and capacity 200Ah.. Rather than your 12V 400Ah.
however, you will need to change the Inverter to 24V..

Since your Panel is 800Watts.. you can use a 24V 40A MPPT controller, which will take 1040Watts panel at 24V

Good morning

For now, I do not intend to change inverter
How best should I go about my

1000 watts
12 v

400amps battery

800 watts solar panel

Mppt 40amps charger

davodyguy:


Good morning

For now, I do not intend to change inverter
How best should I go about my

1000 watts
12 v

400amps battery

800 watts solar panel

Mppt 40amps charger

Jst check if ur mppt has a nominal voltage of 12v, if ur panel is 24v,u can connect ur panel in parallel or even series two 24v as long as it doesn't exceed the max input voltage of the cc(usually btw 100v to 150v).the Mppt ll tk care of the rest. Also check ur nameplate to mk sure u r nt exceeding the current ur controller can dish out

zeestone99:
Just arrived Felicity Solar products.

DC freezer 200liters dc12v/ac 220v - 240k
Dc refrigerator 182liters(136litres fridge,46 litre freezer) - 250k
3.5kva inverter 24v( 35amps charging current) - 160k
5kva inverter 48v ( 30amps charging current) - 200k
7.5kva 48v (40amps chargin current) - 300k
10kva 48v- 380k

1year warranty for Fridge nd freezer, 2 years warranty for inverters.
service center available here in lagos. Hurry now while stock last.

Solar panels
Flames
300w mono - 70k
250w mono - 60k
250w poly- 55k

Sunshine solar
300watts mono=69k
250watts mono=60k
250watts poly=54k

Fast delivery
Call/whatapp 08117398294

Price update
Solar panels
Flames
300w mono - 69k
250w mono - 59k
250w poly- 54k

Sunshine solar
300watts mono=67k
250watts mono=58k
250watts poly=53k

Keep ur orders coming, fast delivery, proffesional installation guaranteed. even our oga George can testify to our proffesional service.

DMerciful:
Space will create gap for airflow besides power loss due to temp is than 5%. While u may loose as much as 40% with wrong angles

I'm afraid DMerciful is quite right.

Oshomo12:

I will disagree with u on this(less than 5%?). The experiment I carried out shows otherwise. I had two panels flat on the roof, with very little airflow. Between 12:30 and 1:00pm I was getting max of 9.4 amps. These panels should give me nothing less than 14amps( though the angle was around 26deg). I check d temp under the panels, it was very high. What I did was that I have my water pump connected to hoss, and I showered it on panels and the surrounding roof. This last for about 3mins, when I got inside to check the current I was pulling, I could see around 14.7amps! After some time, it went back to around 10 amps. This is what I observed, I want to believe that is more than 5%. The only thing I did was just to cool them down.

You would have noticed a similar difference even with professional roof mounts. Mine have absolutely nothing underneath them and I had the same experience as you had. What you did was bring the temperature down closer to the lab temperature of 25^oC. I had posted a year or two ago the impact a brief rain has on them, in addition to the bright "flare" immediately after a midday shower.

The margin will also reduce as your panels age and their efficiency drops. Believe me however when I tell you, you can have 80% losses from poor angling. In an experiment I conducted under non-standard conditions (but otherwise reproducible), the difference between placing them flat and angling them 30^o due South is about 30%. Give it a try on a clear and sunny day, around midday. Mine are angled at 8^o due South (they accumulate dust faster and pool water when placed flat).

Dam5reey:


If you system is above 150W panel... Think MPTT...


Alright let's start with conversion from panel to battery Efficiency.. PWM is 80% while MPTT is close to 100%
If a panel supply 100W PWM gives 80w... Cos you will have same current.. but your Extra voltage is wasted..
MPTT converts extra voltage to Current...

2. Cable sizing, example 3 150watts panel is 450watts.

if you use PWM higher cable guage is required you will use parallel connection meaning increase in current.. 18V @ 25.2A 8awg is required


with MPTT you can connect 3 150watts in series that will make 54V @ 8.4A you can use the 12awg or 10awg

PWM doesn't really do energy conversion. That's why losses might be great if there's a panel voltage:battery bank mismatch. And if they match too closely (to ensure max efficiency), you'd get pitiful charge on cloudy days - unless your bank is quite depleted (not good).

Also, as others have mentioned, unless you have your panels and PWM controller sitting directly above your battery bank, your losses might be significant. And it's a waste of good copper buying cables as thick as your wrist, even if you could afford them.

durodee:
Bought where pls?

Its been a while tho .. DM me via whats app . Thanks

Ferdiwar:



Beko is a well trusted​ name when it comes to freezers and to me it is still the best in the market so far.

Yes I agree with you bro

JUO:

Solar dc fan available (limited quantity)
DC input 12v
Power consumption 6-36w
Direct solar compatible (12v solar panel)
Direct battery compatible (12v battery)
AC 220v compatible (12v adapter)
Size 56"
5 speed
Price 25k
O8o98733709

Available for 5 days
Fangpusun
80a-12/24/36/48/60v=165k
70a-12/24/36/48v=100k
60a-12/24/36/48/60v=145k
60Da-12/24/36/48v=115k
50Da-12/24v=60k
50a-12/24v=45k
45a-12/24/36/48v=70k
30a-12/24v=30k
Mppt control=18k

Epsolar
40a A series -12/24v=59k
30a A series -12/24v=45k
30a CN series -12/24v=33k
Mt50=15k

Battery monitor
Dc-100a-6-100v=9k
AC-100a-220v=6k

DC breaker
125v-16-63a=3k

Digital timer din rail
220v/16a=5k
O8o98733709

JUO:
Available for 5 days Fangpusun 80a-12/24/36/48/60v=165k 70a-12/24/36/48v=100k 60a-12/24/36/48/60v=145k 60Da-12/24/36/48v=115k 50Da-12/24v=60k 50a-12/24v=45k 45a-12/24/36/48v=70k 30a-12/24v=30k Mppt control=18k
Epsolar 40a A series -12/24v=59k 30a A series -12/24v=45k 30a CN series -12/24v=33k Mt50=15k
Battery monitor Dc-100a-6-100v=9k AC-100a-220v=6k
DC breaker 125v-16-63a=3k
Digital timer din rail 220v/16a=5k O8o98733709

thank you ! will spread the message

There must have been a huge power surge in my area overnight. I woke up this morning to discover my Midnite Solar Surge Protection Device MNSPD300 completely damaged. Thanks to the MNSPD300, none of my gears was damaged.

The device was installed on the PHCN grid supply to the house 18months ago.

You are all invited to the survival party.

zeestone99:


Jst check if ur mppt has a nominal voltage of 12v, if ur panel is 24v,u can connect ur panel in parallel or even series two 24v as long as it doesn't exceed the max input voltage of the cc(usually btw 100v to 150v).the Mppt ll tk care of the rest. Also check ur nameplate to mk sure u r nt exceeding the current ur controller can dish out

I'm just about to do the connection.

I just got panels, but was confused about the capacity of the charged controller to buy.

We are fixing next Saturday, that's why I need advise

davodyguy:


I'm just about to do the connection.

I just got panels, but was confused about the capacity of the charged controller to buy.

We are fixing next Saturday, that's why I need advise

What typ of panels, 200w or 250watt, buy a mppt 12v/24v controller, epever or any gud brand ll do, if u need controller watapp 08117398294

I use stabilizer for incoming Phcn. Any over voltage is taken care of by the stab while displaying unusual with no output until d voltage is normalised that way I don't loose anything. I think that's a more cost effective option

dapsyra:
There must have been a huge power surge in my area overnight. I woke up this morning to discover my Midnite Solar Surge Protection Device MNSPD300 completely damaged. Thanks to the MNSPD300, none of my gears was damaged.

The device was installed on the PHCN grid supply to the house 18months ago.

You are all invited to the survival party.

You need both surge arrester and voltage regulator. They are for different purposes.

Transfer time of relays in stabilizer is in milliseconds whereas lightening induced overvoltage occurs in microseconds. You're protected against overvoltage but not transient current when you use stabilizer.

His surge arrester got fried from prolong exposure to overvoltage which a stabilizer could have prevented. On the other hand, a stabilizer may be fried from a single lightening transient unlike a surge arrested which will only deteriorate.

DMerciful:
I use stabilizer for incoming Phcn. Any over voltage is taken care of by the stab while displaying unusual with no output until d voltage is normalised that way I don't loose anything. I think that's a more cost effective option

zeestone99:


What typ of panels, 200w or 250watt, buy a mppt 12v/24v controller, epever or any gud brand ll do, if u need controller watapp 08117398294

200 watts panels x 4 made by frames

How many amps charge controller would work for a parallel connection for the 4 panels to charge 2 now 12 v 200amps batteries?

davodyguy:


200 watts panels x 4 made by frames

How many amps charge controller would work for a parallel connection for the 4 panels to charge 2 now 12 v 200amps batteries?

My advice - buy a 1.5/2kva 24v inverter, one 40amps Mppt charge controller, sell ur 1kva/12v inverter. Connect ur panels 2×2 config. #cheers

N:B you can get gud used inverter at affordable prices from pple that upgraded their system

Dam5reey:


Yes, this will make your battery system 24 Voltage.. and capacity 200Ah.. Rather than your 12V 400Ah.
however, you will need to change the Inverter to 24V..

Since your Panel is 800Watts.. you can use a 24V 40A MPPT controller, which will take 1040Watts panel at 24V

He has a 12 V inverter. Why should he change the inverter?

davodyguy:


200 watts panels x 4 made by frames

How many amps charge controller would work for a parallel connection for the 4 panels to charge 2 now 12 v 200amps batteries?

If you have a good quality inverter keep it. You have 800 Watts in panels. Divide by your inverter voltage. That will give you the size of controller you need.

davodyguy:
Hello house.

Please advice.

Between Mppt and PmW charge controller, which should I use and why?

Thanks

If you can afford it a good quality MPPT. If your application does not require deep discharge of your batteries then a pwm will do the job. More tricky to work with but they do the job.

kiekie1:


This 374L made in Romania freezer produces Frost / block like crazy and is also energy efficient.. You guys can give it a try OK !

I own a small version of it and so far so good. It is on 24/7.

dapsyra:
There must have been a huge power surge in my area overnight. I woke up this morning to discover my Midnite Solar Surge Protection Device MNSPD300 completely damaged. Thanks to the MNSPD300, none of my gears was damaged.

The device was installed on the PHCN grid supply to the house 18months ago.

You are all invited to the survival party.

The thing is all burnt up! Looks like a sustained surge (if such a thing exists/grid overvoltage). Or a direct hit by lightning on a line very close to you. You're one lucky man indeed! Party time!!!

mank1234:
You need both surge arrester and voltage regulator. They are for different purposes.

Transfer time of relays in stabilizer is in milliseconds whereas lightening induced overvoltage occurs in microseconds. You're protected against overvoltage but not transient current when you use stabilizer.

His surge arrester got fried from prolong exposure to overvoltage which a stabilizer could have prevented. On the other hand, a stabilizer may be fried from a single lightening transient unlike a surge arrested which will only deteriorate.

You're right. AVRs won't protect against surges and brownouts. A fuse has a better chance (if the surge current is high enough; rarely ever so). In addition, there are instances the surge is so powerful, it freezes the AVR in "on" mode thus transmitting the entire surge/over-voltage through. I have an 2kVA AVR which is no more than than a mere 10V booster as a result of that.

chris81964:

I own a small version of it and so far so good. It is on 24/7.

I need to get me one of those! Kindly recommend a reliable (trusted by you) contact on these pages. I'm sure many others on this forum are already drooling at the prospect of an energy efficient + reliable freezer

chris81964:

He has a 12 V inverter. Why should he change the inverter?

I did the analysis already... On previous posts.
He need 60A charge controller which would cost more that 40A MPPT.. it's better to have 24V 200Ah Bank than 12V 400AH..

Saipro:


I need to get me one of those! Kindly recommend a reliable (trusted by you) contact on these pages. I'm sure many others on this forum are already drooling at the prospect of an energy efficient + reliable freezer

just a heads up, there are basically 2 types of refrirant the older r600a - toxic, outdated, gradually being phased out for domestic applications in most western countries, chills faster/more efficient
and r134a - newer, genrally accepted, doesnt chill as much as the toxic r600a

thats why older cars chilled better and faster than the new cars, even fridges and freezers, cos they used r600a back then, which is toxic/harmful and require careful handling, causes ozone layer depletion etc. govts had to step in to effect the change to the less efficient but safe r134a, thus r660a gas and components are a bit scarce and thus also more expensive

davodyguy:


Good morning

For now, I do not intend to change inverter
How best should I go about my

1000 watts
12 v

400amps battery

800 watts solar panel

Mppt 40amps charger

It's possible.. with Epsolar MPPT controller... 40A.. however you will still loose power during peak periods..
Connect in 2 x 2 strings...

Option 2 buy 60A, 70A MPPT controller as I stated earlier.. 800Watts will generate Approx 60A at 13.8 float charge...

Dam5reey:


It's possible.. with Epsolar MPPT controller... 40A.. however you will still loose power during peak periods..
Connect in 2 x 2 strings...

Option 2 buy 60A, 70A MPPT controller as I stated earlier.. 800Watts will generate Approx 60A at 13.8 float charge...

Yes , he can simply contact me for complete kit of pro solar roof mount (rails & accessories) .. Cheers

Saipro:


I need to get me one of those! Kindly recommend a reliable (trusted by you) contact on these pages. I'm sure many others on this forum are already drooling at the prospect of an energy efficient + reliable freezer

Purchased it on Konga

Dam5reey:


I did the analysis already... On previous posts.
He need 60A charge controller which would cost more that 40A MPPT.. it's better to have 24V 200Ah Bank than 12V 400AH..

So the difference in cost between a 40 A and 60 A is more than the cost of replacing his inverter.
Let me make sure I understand you. He already has an inverter.
You want him to forget his inverter and buy a 24 V inverter to justify buying a 60 Amp controller. Is this what you are asking him or her to do?

kiekie1:


This 374L made in Romania freezer produces Frost / block like crazy and is also energy efficient.. You guys can give it a try OK !

just compared with haier/lg/samsung.

beko rules them all, the kwh /year consumption is far lower than any of the makes.

Energy consumption (kWh / year) 308 --- beko 379ltr

Energy Consumption (KWhr/yr) 693.0 haier thermocool 379ltr

@kiekie, i dey vex for you o, why did you release this info weeks ago, when i told the house i was in the market for an energy efficient freezer!
this beko consumes less 50% what the haierthermoccol does