AutoElectNG:

Still researching....once done...Will update this post

Can I switch my oil to 5W40? My w211 E320 V6.... After the flush.

Jazzlite:

Can I switch my oil to 5W40? My w211 E320 V6.... After the flush.

Current mileage?

How many years of use?

Current oil?

Please follow my suggestion above...gather data first over 5,000 miles...so I can be objective not subjective

AutoElectNG:


Current mileage?

How many years of use?

Current oil?

Please follow my suggestion above...gather data first over 5,000 miles...so I can be objective not subjective

Over 200k. Parked for 7 years. Reactivated recently. After flush refilled with cheap total 20w50 for another flush after which I intend to switch to recommended oil grade.

Jazzlite:

Over 200k. Parked for 7 years. Reactivated recently. After flush refilled with cheap total 20w50 for another flush after which I intend to switch to recommended oil grade.

Will revert

OgaKazeem:
Autoelectng... pls is it ok to run 5w30-40 on a 1999 nissan altima GXE?
i want to avoid sludge build up like d camry I was asking about. and I also want the car running smooth

I recommend the switch PROVIDED that you create a baseline as I have recommended.

See more details here http://mywikimotors.com/ka24de/

Try 5w30 compare with earlier baseline.

If you share the results of both, I can then advise either to continue with it or switch to 5w40

What product name can one buy for the 5w20 or 30 spec as they are not easily found around.
I will like your response. Thanks
Motor : rav4 2002.

AutoElectNG:


I recommend the switch PROVIDED that you create a baseline as I have recommended.

See more details here http://mywikimotors.com/ka24de/

Try 5w30 compare with earlier baseline.

If you share the results of both, I can then advise either to continue with it or switch to 5w40

3kay945:
What product name can one buy for the 5w20 or 30 spec as they are not easily found around.
I will like your response. Thanks
Motor : rav4 2002.

Where are you based?

I have traveled far and wide and I keep seeing these oils in places one could think they can't be found.

Mobil?
Castrol?

AutoElectNG:


Where are you based?

I have traveled far and wide and I keep seeing these oils in places one could think they can't be found.

Mobil?
Castrol?

I base for ikotun.
I guess you suggesting Mobil and Castrol?

3kay945:


I base for ikotun.
I guess you suggesting Mobil and Castrol?

Lagos? Its all over Lagos.

You are looking in the wrong places.

I'll post two links to guide you.

Will modify this post later

MODIFIED

https:// www. Jumia.com .ng/engine-oils

https://www.nairaland.com/2653841/uber-partner-lagos-please-share/640#66676108

https://www.nairaland.com/2653841/uber-partner-lagos-please-share/638#66664280

AutoElectNG:


First things first, create a baseline.
What is your mileage?

Next, kindly postpone the switch until you create a baseline by doing an oil change using the same oil you have been using.

Make a note to check how much of that oil has been consumed 1000 miles later. Scientifically that would mean draining and measuring the oil, accounting for the oil in the filter. Layman's method is observe the dipstick level. Even better take a picture.

Repeat 5 times. You could even plot the data x axis for time and y axis for oil consumed.

This baseline will be used to compare with using synthetic over the course of the next 5,000 miles against the factory oil consumption rate of 1 quart per 1,200 miles.

I have not yet answered the question but I will, start now to gather this information, we will need it to validate the switch should we determine we need to switch.

original oil has always been 20w50
mileage 144k

OgaKazeem:


original oil has always been 20w50
mileage 144k

I advise you to switch.

See advice here https://www.nairaland.com/3933479/advice-needed-regards-engine-oil/1#66660866

One more reason to switch better protection should you have fuel dilution problems, you don't want conventional oil in your engine. The way it will break down an consequently deny you of any protection that oiI is meant to provide while giving you the illusion of oil in your engine is something you don't want to experience.

Although this can happen to synthetic, it takes way longer to materialize, but in the meantime, synthetics will continue to afford you the kind of protection that conventional in the same circumstances would be hard put to provide.

Jazzlite:

Over 200k. Parked for 7 years. Reactivated recently. After flush refilled with cheap total 20w50 for another flush after which I intend to switch to recommended oil grade.

Borrowed, words not mine:

High Mileage doesn't dictate the condition of the engine- it could be in the exact same condition it was at 50k miles. If you want to see if your engine has "special needs", then pick an oil with good UOA results, use it, and then get your own UOA done to compare. If it is substantially worse off, then you might actually need to alter which oil you use based on whatever engine problems you are having (which wouldn't necessarily be a result of your mileage). If you aren't having any engine issues, then any of the oils with good UOA results will be a good choice for you.

This is the scientific and not pedestrian approach to this issue.

Engine Oil Capacity: 8.5L

Oil specification: 0w40 or 5w40 although some 0w30 or 5w30 oils maybe substituted for fuel economy reasons such as Castrol Edge 0w30 https://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/recommendation?data=54abfb3712d20bc79027729f2f153fc0

Ideal oil must meet MB229.5 specs.

Ideal oil must be synthetic.

If using recommended oils, then service interval is 25,000 kilometres or 1 year.

I recommend that you switch immediately to factory recommendation, ignore the 5,000 mile baseline on the wrong oil, instead do it with the right oil.

If you using any other oils not meeting above specification by manufacturer, dramatically shorten oil change interval.

If I know your location, I could recommend where to get the right oil.

AutoElectNG:


Borrowed, words not mine:



This is the scientific and not pedestrian approach to this issue.

Engine Oil Capacity: 8.5L

Oil specification: 0w40 or 5w40 although some 0w30 or 5w30 oils maybe substituted for fuel economy reasons such as Castrol Edge 0w30 https://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/recommendation?data=54abfb3712d20bc79027729f2f153fc0

Ideal oil must meet MB229.5 specs.

Ideal oil must be synthetic.

If using recommended oils, then service interval is 25,000 kilometres or 1 year.

I recommend that you switch immediately to factory recommendation, ignore the 5,000 mile baseline on the wrong oil, instead do it with the right oil.

If you using any other oils not meeting above specification by manufacturer, dramatically shorten oil change interval.

If I know your location, I could recommend where to get the right oil.

Where can I get the right oil? At okitipupa? Apart from the normal Mobil one or total quartz 9000?

AutoElectNG:


I advise you to switch.

See advice here https://www.nairaland.com/3933479/advice-needed-regards-engine-oil/1#66660866

One more reason to switch better protection should you have fuel dilution problems, you don't want conventional oil in your engine. The way it will break down an consequently deny you of any protection that oiI is meant to provide while giving you the illusion of oil in your engine is something you don't want to experience.

Although this can happen to synthetic, it takes way longer to materialize, but in the meantime, synthetics will continue to afford you the kind of protection that conventional in the same circumstances would be hard put to provide.

ok.... dts same stuff i saw dt informed my decision to change. tnx

Jazzlite:

Where can I get the right oil? At okitipupa? Apart from the normal Mobil one or total quartz 9000?

Order from Lagos or Abuja

https://www.nairaland.com/3933479/advice-needed-regards-engine-oil/1#66663227

Jazzlite:

Where can I get the right oil? At okitipupa? Apart from the normal Mobil one or total quartz 9000?

I think you are good to go with the Mobil 1 sold in Nigerian petrol stations

See pictures taken of the specifications

seunoresco fF2y8gfd3uwf

seunoresco:
Good day Nairalanders, been using my v6 mazda millenia 2001 for 3+ years now and have been servicing the engine with mobil xhp(20w50) , but recently i stumbled on my car manual and saw in there that the recommended engine oil is 5w20 . Need advice if i can change the oil for the next service day or just continue with the (20w50). Thanks

Jazzlite:

Where can I get the right oil? At okitipupa? Apart from the normal Mobil one or total quartz 9000?

i have an idea for a supplier in Ebonyi State for all kinds of genuine synthetic engine oil and transmission fluid from toyota, nissan, honda,ford,mercedes etc at a cheap and wholesale prizes. to avoid ban, pm me

some of the products are

Hello guys, I intend switching to synthetic Mobil 1 5w-30 on a 2007 toyota camry , I read here of sludge deposit using a non recommended oil. Does this occur in the above model too? Any other advice would be appreciated

I hv been using my car with Total 20w50 for more than 3 years until recently I observed that the oil has been drying up when I check. I spoke with my Mech over the issue and he recommended I change oil to vital 20w50.
immediately after change of oil my car began to smoke heavily (thick smoke). I need expert advice on what to do.

Abeytown:
I hv been using my car with Total 20w50 for more than 3 years until recently I observed that the oil has been drying up when I check. I spoke with my Mech over the issue and he recommended I change oil to vital 20w50.
immediately after change of oil my car began to smoke heavily (thick smoke). I need expert advice on what to do.

What is the make of your car?

AutoElectNG:


Respectfully disagree.

That engine has no sludge problem.

change to 5w30 but carefully monitor oil consumption for the next 5,000 miles.

At every 500 miles interval, if that will determine if the decision is reasonable or not.

compare oil consumption with manufacturer specifications if within tolerances, continue using 5w30

shall I also add that someone close to me using the same engine switched from 20w50 to 5w30 after 5 years without issues to date some 4 years later

Thanks boss.
This was close to what I did some 5 years ago. I will give my firsthand experience to backup your position.

Yes Piyke used 20W-50 (Mobil XHP) in his 2003 Accord for approximately 4 years but switched to 5w-20!

After getting my car in 2009 I started using 20W-50 since I couldn't find the oil weight on the cap. I didn't know much about cars either.
When I started becoming Piyke I drew up a plan to return to factory spec oil and it was 10w-40 for about 3 - 4 oil changes, 5w-30 for a similar period and finally I have been using 5w-20 for as long as I can remember now; no shortages out of the ordinary. I use 4.73L (5qts) for 3000 - 4000miles. Where we differ is that I use conventional oil. For me any recommended oil weight with the API sticker is good enough for me. I use STP brand precisely, no smoking. At over 230k miles today it has gone well. NB: My car does not call for synthetic oil. If yours does use it. Regular oil changes is the key.
Caveat, my vehicle has been driven mostly highway for its service life. I will like to think that it could have been different if it was mostly city driving prior to the switch.

rodbel:
Hello guys, I intend switching to synthetic Mobil 1 5w-30 on a 2007 toyota camry , I read here of sludge deposit using a non recommended oil. Does this occur in the above model too? Any other advice would be appreciated

2007 Toyota Camry uses the following engines 2AZ-FE; 2AZ-FXE;2GR-FE.

Which of these engines does your vehicle have?

AutoElectNG:


2007 Toyota Camry uses the following engines 2AZ-FE; 2AZ-FXE;2GR-FE.

Which of these engines does your vehicle have?

2GR-FE

Piyke:


Thanks boss.
This was close to what I did some 5 years ago. I will give my firsthand experience to backup your position.

Yes Piyke used 20W-50 (Mobil XHP) in his 2003 Accord for approximately 4 years but switched to 5w-20!

After getting my car in 2009 I started using 20W-50 since I couldn't find the oil weight on the cap. I didn't know much about cars either.
When I started becoming Pi.yke I drew up a plan to return to factory spec oil and it was 10w-40 for about 3 - 4 oil changes, 5w-30 for a similar period and finally I have been using 5w-20 for as long as I can remember now; no shortages out of the ordinary. I use 4.73L (5qts) for 3000 - 4000miles. Where we differ is that I use conventional oil. For me any recommended oil weight with the API sticker is good enough for me. I use STP brand precisely, no smoking. At over 230k miles today it has gone well. NB: My car does not call for synthetic oil. If yours does use it. Regular oil changes is the key.
Caveat, my vehicle has been driven mostly highway for its service life. I will like to think that it could have been different if it was mostly city driving prior to the switch.

I am particular about using the proper oil viscosity as recommended by the manufacturer.

I am not so particular about conventional or synthetic provided the above is followed.

The only reason for recommending synthetic is
1. longer oil change intervals;
2. it does not disintegrate as fast as conventional;
3. in extremes of temperature, it tends to stay stable when conventional would not.

That said as long as you do not exceed that OCI, conventional oil of the proper viscosity will do you no harm.

Thanks for your story and I do look forward to the full gist.

One more thing, even if your engine is an oil consumer, would it not make economic sense to carry more oil and check it more often say every 500 miles or 1000 miles instead of replacing the engine? Many manufacturers have problems with engine consuming oil, so I think this is the course of wisdom, instead of using heavier/thicker oil which does not get consumed as much but can give one other problems?

One thing that has not been emphasized as much as it deserves is the importance of keeping engine oil as near to the full mark as possible ( as opposed to overfilling), when your engine oil gets too low, you wear out your engine faster, is that not a good enough reason to make it a point of duty to check oil level often?

The car is Nissan Primera 2001.

I also discussed issues relating to oil choice here https://www.nairaland.com/3842959/need-professional-advice-n-mechanic/2

Makes more sense to me to cross-reference threads than repeat myself non-stop

Many times engine replacements have been advised but from the vantage point of engine rebuilders - those who truly understand engines inside out, some of the reasons for which engine replacements have been advanced are certainly not good enough reasons to replace engines.

Here is an example to buttress my point: https://www.noordeman.com.au/smokey-toyota-2gr-fe-v6-engine-the-simple-solution/

@AutoElectNG bro. thanks for responses, though i have been using lubex 5w-30 oil, u think i should stick with it? or is there a better brand 5w-30 for my 2001 mazda millenia as it have over 200,000+ miles on it already (High mileage engine). Thanks

rodbel:


2GR-FE

Your engine is not prone to sludge attributable to manufacturer defects like the 2AZ-FE

Neglect can cause sludge nonetheless e.g, using dino oil and leaving it in the engine for too long.

On the strength of the arguments canvassed here https://www.nairaland.com/4491728/best-20w50-engine-oil#67391186 you may decide to switch from 20W50 if that is what you have been using

Bro still waiting for your advise. Thx