Mercedes Benz Thread - Car Talk (8) - Nairaland
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| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 6:34pm On Apr 26, 2011 |
A Voltage of 5.2 was confirmed on the wires connecting d socket feeding d valve. I also tested d valve by disconnecting d socket n attempting to suck air as d actuator would, but it was blocked whereas with d socket it, it was free, Let me not jump d gun yet, but I think my mpg might be enhanced after all I ve just done. Just filled my tank 3 days ago and has done 39miles already, let's see how d week goes, would refill again by wkd to calculate d mpg. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 7:36pm On Apr 26, 2011 |
kuntash: Big plus to you. Seems you've got renewed enthusiasm now  |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by jobas: 3:37pm On May 01, 2011 |
Hello House, Please need some advice. What do you guys think of the 2006 Mercedes-Benz S350  Is it a good buy what's the average I can get one for?I eagerly await your response. Thnx in advance. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by marabout(m): 9:07pm On May 01, 2011 |
Good thread |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 3:30am On May 02, 2011 |
jobas: I'll give a simple word of advice. It doesn't matter the variant or the class, avoid the v6. Ignore this and you'll find out why. Also avoid the panoramic roof. If you find an international version (non western), go for it. This is due to fuel and emission restrictions hard-coded into the western market variant. This saves you a lot of issues. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 7:06pm On May 02, 2011 |
Hi Trac, whats ur take on the straight 6 cylinder C class? I still like this model of cars cos maintenance is kinda cheap. do you think the newer models are like these "almost free maintenance" range of 1994-1999 ? I am interested in going for 1999 C280, pls whats ur take? |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by jobas: 8:08pm On May 02, 2011 |
Hi Trac, Thanks for your prompt response. But I think all S350s are V6. Are you saying that I should not go for it |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 7:51am On May 03, 2011 |
kuntash: The m104 2.8 you are referring to is a stroked m104 3.2 (or maybe the other way round). The same engine but different stroke. Two archilles! Head gasket and wiring harness or loom (depends on the year). The engine is very smooth and bullet proof. Unlike other vehicles, leaks from the head gasket does not affect compression. However, bits of oil will float to the top of your coolant resevoir. The failure of the head gasket is due to the uneven coefficient of expansion between the two different alloys (upper and lower). The bolts also are stretch-bolts, meaning in some cases, you might have to re-torque the bolts. Per head gasket, I believe MB stopped using the biodegradeable wiring harness. This is the only major problem with this engine. Every other thing is either routine, wear issues or mild to moderate. The engines are the same but the Classes are not. I am not too familiar with the C Classes. A note of caution - things could be expensive if maintenance was deferred. Do not gamble on this except you are willing to step up to the cost. Look around for leaks and suspension components. You can test a failing transmission from the reverse and how much the delay is. If it delays and then jerks into reverse, there is an issue. This can go for a few years. This tells there is a wear on the band and with time, it will eventually break the B2 piston leaving you with only forward gears. No other method that I know of. Remember, if you get a non-tropicalised MB, retard the timing to use with the fuel available. It is explicitly clear in the owner's manual. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 9:04am On May 03, 2011 |
^^^^ bros , u sound still too technical for me, all these one u just carry me inside the engine to explain things to me. anyway, which one/year do you think would be better ? , I somewhat prefer smthn not too big , hence the c-classes , |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 2:45pm On May 03, 2011 |
jobas: The S Class has a different production interval and I am very familiar with the E Classes. , but the "lowest common denominator" is the engines that cuts across all MB model lineups. The engine you are referring to is the m-272. To the main point , Besides being flawed by inherent design, MB still cut corners in materials and manufacturing processes. A balanceshaft with special engine mounts were used to tame its inherent flaws for the v6's. The problem with this engine is the failure of the balanceshaft (this is at low mileage). With taxes, you are looking into the thousand range in repairs regardless of Classes. The older m-112 had a problem of some nature but would rip out of the engine (oil pan). The balanceshaft could barely balance the engine. Ever question why they are cheap and nobody wants them at such low mileages? Why? The design was never meant to be in the first place and essential steps and procedures to prevent against such was not taken serious. There are 90 degrees 6's that have been used in racing. This is just one of the many other things. Dealing with ABC failure, the airmatic suspension failure and a host of other issues leaves rooms for lots to be desired. It's not a problem if you can do your own repairs but the balanceshaft matter is totally unacceptable. The build quality on the S Class is superb compared to the rest. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 2:46pm On May 03, 2011 |
kuntash: Basically, all I said is it is a good engine but it has one serious flaw and that is the head gasket. Oil will leak but it will not affect driveability because there is no loss in compression due to the way the engine was designed. The head gasket has been revised a few times. So, look out for this at purchase. The leak is a minor leak but will get serious after a few years if not fixed. You are looking towards a 99, so you will not have the wiring harness problem. It is a very expensive repair and some dealerships would replace it at no charge to you. But the year in question wasn't affected. Another trouble point that I addressed was the transmission (if you would get the auitomatic). They'll still require rebuild (no matter what) but it's good to know one that is failing and the other that isn't. The way to know is by shifting to the reverse gear. If there is a delay like two seconds or more and in some cases jerking before you begin moving backwards, the transmission is going bad. You either deduct money from purchase or you find another buy. The only major issue is the head gasket on those motors. Besides that and some other small issues, it is a flawless engine. Other repairs are normal wear and tear. 1 Like 1 Share |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 6:47pm On May 03, 2011 |
thanks alot Trac. scouting would commence when the pepper is available. thanks once again. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 6:59pm On May 03, 2011 |
kuntash: |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by AMADU77: 9:12pm On May 03, 2011 |
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| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 9:52pm On May 03, 2011 |
kuntash: My bad! What I told you was the S Class. I don't know much about the lower displaced m-112 but I do know that the 3.2 do have balanceshaft issues. The 104's stopped in early '97. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by rabosh(m): 6:14pm On May 07, 2011 |
Hi All, I am about picking up my first mercedes benz vehicle ever, a 2003 ML 55 AMG . kindly advise is this a good choice? i want a solid, rugged and classy SUV. I'll really appreciate your informed thoughts chhers |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 9:58am On May 09, 2011 |
Behr is a better thermostat brand than Wahler. The same price but Wahler is not predictable. Benz's run hot and when Wahler fails, it fails in the open state. In other words, the coolant gate is open and it begins its purpose from the time you crank your engine. Since an engine is hot by nature, it will take about 5 to 7 minutes to get to 80degC as oppose to 2 minutes. You will not suspect anything. I noticed mine when it took forever for my heater to warm the vehicle at very low fan speed and the engine temperature never got to 40deg on a snowy day. hi TRAC, your above comment had been in my head since, WAHLER thermostat does really fail in the open state, I ve been quiet about this since, because I was trying to get a thermostat to get the engine temp to its normal running condition. in all I replaced about 3 different WAHLER thermostats , they all failed in the open state, takes long to get to 40deg centigrade, then after driving for a long time it manages to get near 80deg. I knew this was not correct, and was worried, I was however lucky over the weekend when I went to the parts market again just to inform the dealer to look for the particular BEHR thermostat and call me when found, and decide to turn to one of the many engines there, and saw letter "B" , IT WAS BEHR!, remove it pls! I shouted in joy! the thermostat head although didnt fit mine cos of the overflow pin not present in the head, so I had to remove the thermostat itself and fix on mine, thing had not been d same since then, it would be enough to state here though that 98% of the engines I searched had WAHLER! Thanks alot TRAC, I do appreciate! see attached pics 1 Like
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| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 10:01am On May 09, 2011 |
Thermostats of the WAHLER and the BEHR when removed
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| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 10:09am On May 09, 2011 |
The temp readings and the Tachometer after the replacement (BEHR) , the engine now warms up faster,
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| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 10:11am On May 09, 2011 |
BEHR thermostat inside a WAHLER housing, lol  1 Like
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| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 10:15am On May 09, 2011 |
My old 71deg Centigrade, I bought new, still works, just kept that in the booth just incase anything happen,
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| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 5:36pm On May 09, 2011 |
Kuntash, Wahler thermostat for MB's fail a lot too soon making it unpredictable. It always fails at the pin due to poor build. Wahler and Behr were factory OEM for Mercs at the time. I believe it is just Behr now. Behr is a far superior build than Wahler. The temperature in your cluster is right and you shouldn't be experiencing frequent dips and rising of the needle as it were in the failed thermostat. It is also not uncommon for your needle to be at 105 - 110degC in a hot summer. According to MB, it doesn't start overheating till it gets to 135degC. If you indeed feel uncomfortable in a very hot day, roll your windows down and engage the heater at full blast. Temperature will drop down to the 80's in a matter of minutes. Replace your coolant in shorter intervals if you are not using MB antifreeze. In other words, you will not be doing the 5-year interval. Above all, do not use the green coolant. The 6 cylinders of the aluminum and steel engine (like your engine block) were not forgiving to this. In terms of coolant prices (non-MB), they are the same or little in difference. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 7:44am On May 10, 2011 |
Trac: Thanks Trac for ur contribution. I have actually looked for this coolant, but couldn't find, I understand the colour is yellow. what I use currently is Green, (HOLTS), there's another colour RED made by ABRO, I ve looked for the MB coolant, No way. From your comment, I will flush it out and use another whose properties meet that of Zerex from what I read, they say this is MB approved coolant- see pics. Question: where can one buy this in Nigeria? alternatively, what other products matches its properties? Suffice it to say here that I did 300miles with 50 litres, both urban and highway, with 75% of usage was with A/C. before now it wasnt so, I still think there could be room for improvement. . I am convinced many people do not get such mpg with their cars, whether MB or another of its kind. I know 300miles on 50 litres of fuel is still poor, but considering the kinda fuel we get here etc, I think my effort in trying to get the best out of this 13+ yrs old car seem to be paying off, NOTE: this was before the thermostat change, so I am still expecting better mpg. lol huh!! how I hate wastage ,
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| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 8:43am On May 10, 2011 |
kuntash: To be honest Kuntash, I did not want to push because I don't know what is available where you are. This is why I gave you the option of frequent changes/less intervals. But to my surprise, you just struck the nail on the head. The Zerex Z05 is the only antifreeze that exceeds the MB Antifreeze. It has Glysantin, hence the G-05. MB approved it as a certified alternative. It is also newer. To be honest with you, it is also "bulletproof" as the MB logoed fluid and it is plenty dollars cheaper. With the Zerex, you can go the normal interval. For the price, you cannot go wrong. To answer your question, Zerex is made by Valvoline. If you cannot find it, look for alternatives. Get rid of the green coolant at the slightest opportunity you can. The consequences are not worth it (water pump and radiator) and may eventually lead to warping your cylinder heads. It is true that the grade of fuel isn't the best and might still be mixed with ethanol. There isn't really much you can do about that. However, you can always use fuel treatment every three months. Attaining fuel mileage that the manufacturer states is a bit unreal. Same goes for the 0 - 60 in x seconds. 13 gallons for 300 miles is not bad plus your engine is quite small. I don't know if your gearings are tall but for the models in the United States, the gearings are tall and the best of gas mileage is done at higher speeds. What you need to understand is that fuel consumption data is given at 35mph and 55mph for city and highway respectively. Except you religiously follow those limits, you will not get such. In addition to those results, the cleanest of gas and the right air temperature was used. You will get better gas mileage after your thermostat change. Get some fuel treatment and ensure you are using the right plugs and it is gapped right. Quick question: What grade of oil do you use? 1 Like |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 10:34am On May 10, 2011 |
Trac: |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 8:46pm On May 10, 2011 |
You are driving a car not an 18-wheeler or a super-duty pick-up truck. 20w-50 is not an approved oil for any MB gas engine mounted on a sedan or 4x4. The AMG's never use the 20w-50 weight and they are high power and torque output. You have to consider the weight of the oil at 100degC and not as you pour the fluid from the bottle. At 100degC, the viscosity is at 50. That is too heavy and thick for your oil pump, too thick for the upper profiles of your crankcase and will not flow to the hard-to-reach areas (tight restrictions) including pores within the crankcase. Besides that, you will have drag in your crankcase which will lead to parasitic loss. You also waste fuel too and will ride as smooth. You will also damage the rear main seals that mate the engine to the transmission. For the 20w, you are going to have difficulty in cold start. Your MB engine formula requires specification 229.3. You can upgrade to specification 229.5 and exploit the extended oil interval change. I replace my oils on all my cars after 15 months and for years with Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0w-30 and 0w-40. I don't use Mobil 1 anymore for personal reasons but it's what MB recommends. Since it is your daily driver, you can reduce the interval life since it is driven everyday and your environmental conditions differ. The grade you should use should be 0w-40, 5w-40 and in convenient cases, 10w-40. I am not sure about the 30 viscosity but it should state it on your dipstick. Look for Mobil 1 SuperSyn or Mobil 1 AdvanceSyn and at the back, it will state the 229.5 specification requirement. You shouldn't use anything less than a 229.3 spec oil. You may not find a 229.3 spec for it has been superceded by 229.5. One note to take into consideration is 229.3 or 229.5 and not 229.31 or 229.51. The latter (Bleep.x1) is for diesels). To counter some arguments -- some people believe as a car ages, thicker oil is required. That is totally false. If you have leaks, mechanical repair is required. The first note to consider is that no one makes engines like MB. On the M111 engine and all Mercedes engines set up on the HFM injection system, ignition control and fuel injection has been unified to one module, so the coil are mounted directly on the plugs eliminating a distributor. The innovation is smart and has adaptive technology within its configuration and its adaptive nature allows it to compensate for engine wear throughout the course of its engine life keeping it running like new throughout its life. Above all, the bottle must explicitly state 229.3 or 229.5 specification. Anything short of this will not meet MB's specification for high temperature high shear strength. Also, the xw-30 weight is not recommended. 2 Likes |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 7:01am On May 11, 2011 |
Trac: hmmm, Mobil -1? thats heavy O, to even think it comes with a 4-litre bottle, and I require like 5-6ltrs. a bottle is about 8k naira or more over $50, two bottles would be over $100 USD. I think what I would do is to buy PROLINE engine oil 5litres. I thinks its like 0w-30 or so, I am not sure, and its sold for like $50. I would look for engine oils of such grade as recommended and replace it, but I am not sure I would buy mobil-1 , at least for now, I would update you once I am done. I do appreciate ur contribution on this thread and I am sure it has assisted many benz owners in one way or the other. 1 Like |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 11:15am On May 11, 2011 |
ORIGINAL MB 224.1 sheet (full name: BB00.40-P-0224-01A), recommended viscosities: all temperatures: 0W30; 5W30; 0W40; 5W40; 5W50, temperatures above -4° (-20°C): 10W30; 10W40; 10W50; 10W60, temperatures above 5° (-15°C): 15W40; 15W50, temperatures above 23° (-5°C): 20W40; 20W50. @TRAC , I got d above details online, pls can u confirm if this is correct, also considering here in Nigeria, temp could rise above 30 deg. I guess its d environmental temp dats being refered. I still see 20w-50 for temp above 23 deg C. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 4:32pm On May 11, 2011 |
kuntash: No Kuntash, Mobil 1 cannot be $50 for a quart. . . . and if you are right, find somewhere else and buy it. There are some alternatives that MB stated but not as good. I will have to look for it. The reality is that Mobil 1 (M1) fluid is cheaper and many miles better. In the mean time, which is cheaper -- M1 vs the rest. With the M1, you go 15 months or 15,000 miles on a crankcase and then you replace. On the others, you go 2,000 or 3,000 on a crankcase and then you replace. Depending on the way you drive, M1 might still good after 15 months. $50 dollars a bottle is senseless. Find another distributor. I use privately owned oil brands and they are more expensive than M1 but no where near a-third of $50. |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 5:47pm On May 11, 2011 |
kuntash: The minimum oil for your vehicle is 229.3 (which is multigrade oil sheet spec family .3). I have never heard about 224.x. Every fluid or paste has a number in MB, from windshield washer to brake paste. What matters above all is the coolant, transmission and engine. The 225.x are MB break-in oils. These are the oils when you purchase a new car or the pre-filled oil at new purchase to allow the engine break in. 228.1 is a single grade oil and 228.3 to 229.xx is multigrade oil. According to MB, the minimum requirement for the m111 is 229.3. The oil was tailored with the construction of the engine. At this point, 229.3 has been superceded by 229.5. You can use either but I doubt if you will find any that isn't backward compatible. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.aspx Re : 20w-50 kuntash: This has nothing to do with the ambient temperature but engine running temperature. I doubt if Nigeria gets as hot as 117degF and in addition to that, humid. Look at the viscosity chart. The 0w all the way to 5w offers protection across the temperature bands. 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40 is all you need. The moment you crank the ignition, the W cancels out. No 20w-50 is approved for any MB product. There is 10w-60 and those are for the lorries and you are one notch below that weight. If you have thicker oil, you will have poor circulation leading to poor economy and engine wear. The pour point in the 20w-50 is too high and not appropriate for your vehicle. So at cold-startup, you have no protection and the flow of the fluid is very poor till it warms up. The engineers that designed the vehicle made their documentations. It is the same grade specified for tropicalised and non-tropicalised regions. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/What_Is_Synthetic_Motor_Oil.aspx 1 Like |
| Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 6:53pm On May 11, 2011 |
kuntash: The minimum oil for your vehicle is 229.3 (which is multigrade oil sheet spec family .3). I have never heard about 224.x. Every fluid or paste has a number in MB, from windshield washer to brake paste. What matters above all is the coolant, transmission and engine. The 225.x are MB break-in oils. These are the oils when you purchase a new car or the pre-filled oil at new purchase to allow the engine break in. 228.1 is a single grade oil and 228.3 to 229.xx is multigrade oil. According to MB, the minimum requirement for the m111 is 229.3. The oil was tailored with the construction of the engine. At this point, 229.3 has been superceded by 229.5. You can use either but I doubt if you will find any that isn't backward compatible. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.aspx kuntash: This has nothing to do with the ambient temperature but engine running temperature. I doubt if Nigeria gets as hot as 117degF and i addition to that, humid. Look at the viscosity chart. The 0w all the way to 5w offers protection across the temperature bands. 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40 is all you need. The moment you crank the ignition, the W cancels out. No 20w-50 is approved for any MB product. There is 10w-60 and those are for the lorries and you are one notch below that weight. If you have thicker oil, you will have poor circulation leading to poor economy and engine wear. The pour point in the 20w-50 is too high and not appropriate for your vehicle. So at cold-startup, you have no protection and the flow of the fluid is very poor till it warms up. The engineers that designed the vehicle made their documentations. It is the same grade specified for tropicalised and non-tropicalised regions. This doesn't just apply to Mercs but all vehciles. Japenese vehicels use thinner oils. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/What_Is_Synthetic_Motor_Oil.aspx http://hubpages.com/hub/Whats-the-difference-in-car-oils-and-whats-the-best-oil-to-put-in-your-car 2 Likes |
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